Thread Number: 45278  /  Tag: Pre-1950 Vacuum Cleaners
Calling all repair guys
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Post# 469004   1/27/2024 at 14:50 by OhioVacuums (Ohio)        

I recently purchased an old Apex straight suction vacuum.
It's in pretty bad shape but I'm trying to bring it back the best I can.
Picture 1 is the vac
#2 shows the handle with the on/off in the end of the hand grip
#3 shows the fan
#4 shows the back of the motor

My questions are:
pic #3 - the fan appears to have the end broken off....other vac motors I have seen have a post sticking out that can be used to hold the shaft while turning the fan free. Any ideas how I can get the fan off ? The motor sparks but does run.

pic #4 - what is the screw for ? The hole next to it is for the rear swivel wheel.

I've never seen this before but the electrical wires run on one side of the wood handle. There is a valley cut out and the wires are just shoved in there tightly.
The handle is solid so there is no way to run the wires through the middle.

I have the work 1/2 done as far as polishing/cleaning.
That's the easy part...hoping I can get the motor purring.


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Post# 469011 , Reply# 1   1/27/2024 at 20:04 by Hoover300 (Kentucky)        

hoover300's profile picture
No need to remove the fan. The bearing plate is held in by the motor screwing to the fan case. Just tap the armature with an ice pick from the back. Should come out

The screw by the caster hole is an oil wick.

Best of luck! These can be finicky creatures, especially the rotating switch.


Post# 469015 , Reply# 2   1/27/2024 at 20:46 by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture


Also keep in mind some sparking is normal with these old motors, so do not try to eliminate all the sparking entirely. They are all hand built and do not have the same tolerance as precision engineered motors today.

The wires running through the handle was a way for them to negate wear and tear on the cloth cords from running against furniture or from hands, and to prevent shocks. Very innovative for the time period. Birtman did it on their Bee-Vac vacuums too.

Just take your time and be delicate and you will get it. 👍


Post# 469018 , Reply# 3   1/27/2024 at 20:54 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
The

lesinutah's profile picture
Hole in the back is likely old wiring hole.

Post# 469111 , Reply# 4   1/30/2024 at 18:22 by OhioVacuums (Ohio)        
Follow Up

I have the handle all done and the on/off switch works ! Good thing because I don't think it can be dis-assembled and repaired. I polished the snorkel (I call it) but it still has a haze on it......how do I get that out ?
I haven't done the motor yet...I attached more pics of it. There are no machine screws to take out..I can't see anything that holds the armature, etc. in.
The large screw near the rear wheel hole is an oil wick as far as I can tell. There are two ball bearings that can be pushed in to add oil....see the pic.
So, I'm still confused on how to attempt to fix the motor.???


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Post# 469116 , Reply# 5   1/30/2024 at 19:08 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
I

lesinutah's profile picture
Have a bee vac junior that had oiler ports like your apex.

The spindle on the fan you put vice grips or pliers with a rag on the teeth to not hurt the fan. The spindle will come off but the fan stays attached.
You need needle nose vice grips. The 2 oiler port location are floating bearings. You put the vice grips on the upper armature shaft so the armature won't spin. Then you spin off the fan off the spindle. Then once the fan is off there's going to be 2 screws holding the bearing plate in. Loosen the screws or bolts and the bearing plate will come off.
Be careful to keep track of where the washers go when taking everything off.
The 2 screws from the bearing plate hold in the coil usually and screw into right above where the carbon brush housing is. I'd leave the coil in.
I'm guessing this is how yours comes apart as the 2 oiler ports are bearings and they float. This makes the fan removal different than any other vacuum I've disassembled.
I sprayed degreaser and sprayed water into the housing after I took everything out. I let it air dry and that should make the motor housing clean as it can be.


Post# 469131 , Reply# 6   1/30/2024 at 21:44 by Hoover300 (Kentucky)        

hoover300's profile picture
NO!!!!

This is not a Kirby or Bee Vac! This will break the hub of the cast, 1 piece fan!


See the rear bushing, and the rotor in it? Tap the back of it with an ice pick. Or, pry it from the front vent holes with a screwdriver. Nothing is holding the bearing plate in except friction. The fan is almost impossible to remove without the armature removed from the unit. I got this information from an old VL thread about an Apex like this and it WORKS. The fan does not need to be removed in the way he did so - as you can see, nothing on the bearing plate. Hopefully my screenshot can be read, if not it is thread 8069.


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Post# 469146 , Reply# 7   1/31/2024 at 18:33 by OhioVacuums (Ohio)        
Thank You

Thanks to Hoover 300, getting the armature out was very easy.
Now my final question......I cleaned the copper on the armature but I notice
the part that revolves within the magnets (sorry, don't know what all
this is called) looks like my dog got a hold of it. The magnets are also
chewed up. Am I out of luck or will the motor run anyway ?


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Post# 469149 , Reply# 8   1/31/2024 at 19:23 by EvolutionClean1 (Nampa, Idaho)        
She'll run

Just fine. Internals of the motors were made out of softer metals back in the day, that's just wear from age. I'd be willing to bet the motors of most near antique machines probably look about the same

Post# 469150 , Reply# 9   1/31/2024 at 20:08 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Um

lesinutah's profile picture
Sand them down.
I'm willing to bet about no old motors are scratched that bad.
Try spraying engine degreaser on it and then sand it.
The armature looks rough but the copper isn't marred and you can sand out the dongs and it may hopefully.


Post# 469152 , Reply# 10   1/31/2024 at 20:15 by EvolutionClean1 (Nampa, Idaho)        
Maybe not that bad?

But some pretty decent wear is to be expected in 70 plus year old machines 😅

I was not meaning that as a negative thing at all. It's definitely fixable, but it just goes to show that they used to build things a lot better than they do nowadays


Post# 469167 , Reply# 11   2/1/2024 at 18:52 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
The

lesinutah's profile picture
Commuter bars might be too thin to conduct enough electricity to work. That's my only concern.

Post# 469187 , Reply# 12   2/2/2024 at 09:04 by OhioVacuums (Ohio)        
follow up

I sanded the commutator with 1000 grit paper. Just about all the scratches
are out. I very lightly sanded the magnetic bars but will leaves most scratches as I don't want to ruin it.
I will test the armature with a multimeter and hopefully, will have no shorts or other problems.
I'll put it back together and see how it runs. If it still has problems, I'll take it apart again and try plan B...whatever that is.


Post# 469189 , Reply# 13   2/2/2024 at 11:56 by Hoover300 (Kentucky)        

hoover300's profile picture
Might want to seat the brushes using a seating stone.. A freshly sanded commutator will spark quite a bit

Post# 469201 , Reply# 14   2/3/2024 at 01:37 by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture

I'd gently blow a lot of that dust out of the motor while you have it apart too, not too hard as everything this old gets very fragile - even metal. All that dust wont help the connections any and can be a fire hazard.


Post# 469209 , Reply# 15   2/3/2024 at 12:16 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Um

lesinutah's profile picture
Here's a trick. If you wash it out in the sink. It gets all the nooks behind the coil. You can use a blower to dry or air dry.
I'm glad you got it apart. If I ever get an apex I'll refer to this thread.


Post# 469214 , Reply# 16   2/3/2024 at 19:42 by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture


I don't know if I'd expose it to water. These old motors used cardboard insulators and shellac sealant for the wiring that can be water soluble. The stators are also hydroscopic and absorb water, not good.


Post# 469220 , Reply# 17   2/3/2024 at 21:24 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Husky

lesinutah's profile picture
I just tore apart 1926 beevac junior hand vacuum. I washed the inside with water. I use a sprayer in kitchen sink. I don't soak it in water it spray on use towel dry off. The electrical parts are taken off. It works never had trouble yet.
The beevac vacuum is back together and runs like a top.
If there's cardboard or electrical I usually use a vacuum to clean it out. I plan out and only use water safely.


Post# 469345 , Reply# 18   2/7/2024 at 00:06 by Hornet (Canada)        

hornet's profile picture
Ohiovacuums:I had a similar problem with an old fan motor , with wear in the same area, the magnetic bar plates are not lined up and are being struck by the armature , may have been dropped and the plates shifted a bit .
To fix this I took a 3” dowel laid it flat against the plates and tapped the dowel with a hammer until the plates were even again, then put a bit of lacquer on the plates to sink in and lock them in place, also you might want to check your bearings , one my be worn causing the armature to move enough to strike the plates.
I did this to my old 1920’s table fan and it totally fixed the problem, hope this helps you out?


Post# 469365 , Reply# 19   2/7/2024 at 17:22 by OhioVacuums (Ohio)        
Exactly right Hornet

After taking all apart, I see that the armature is making contact with the surrounding magnets. I will try your dowel method to align them. It appears to me that replacing the bushing may be impossible (for me anyway). The armature isn't real
loose in the bushing but I may try plating the ends with nickel to take up some of
the slop. We'll see. I do have 2 further questions,,,,one of the screws holding the magnets in is loose because the hole in the housing is stripped. Not sure how to fix that ...I may try putting JB Weld in the hole and drilling it undersize.
Also, the wires that connect to the carbon brush housing were soldered on. Other motors I've seen have a spring looking ring that slid over these brush housing parts.
There are screws on there but I took them out and that doesn't seem to do anything.
I'll either have to solder the wires back in (which will be difficult to access) or
see if I can fabricate the spring type connectors. Please see my pics. I'm not ready to give up on it.


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Post# 469697 , Reply# 20   2/19/2024 at 12:43 by Hornet (Canada)        

hornet's profile picture
Hi OhioVacuumes, I looked at your bushing for the armature and looks almost out of round , try to nickel plate and see if that helps first, if problem remains , look for another bushing that fits your armature nice and then drill out seat in housing to accept new bushing you may need to do some custom work to do this or maybe replace with a sealed bearing small enough to fit, it is one of those things that you may need to play around with to make work or you could try to drill it out to accept a bronze sleeve?
With the stripped threads I would put a small copper wire in the female thread and bend the wire over edge so not to fall in ,then screw in your screw, I have tried JB weld for this before with negative results, JB weld gets brittle when applied in such a thin coat and turns to dust when screwing back in, also there is a chance your screw may get locked in, you could also try a( medium ) Automotive locktite on the screw so if you ever need to take apart again it will come out. You could also use a little bit bigger screw and tap out the female end to fit. Hope some of these ideas help you out with your restoration.
Could you post some pics of your brushes so I get a better idea on what you mean with the soldering.


Post# 469735 , Reply# 21   2/21/2024 at 12:25 by OhioVacuums (Ohio)        
Hornet

Thanks again for the info. !
I haven't done anything yet with the motor...been way too busy at work.
I will try the soft copper wire method along with some locktite that is not
permanent on the hold down screw.
See my photo #1.....The 2 screws seem to hold down brass tubes that the brushes
slide in to. I took the screws out but the "tubes" will not move. The wires are soldered on to these "tubes"...you can see some solder on the right side.
I'll try nickel plating rather than attempting to replace the bushings....It doesn't have to run perfectly, I just want it to run fairly well.



Post# 469804 , Reply# 22   2/24/2024 at 12:38 by Hornet (Canada)        
OhioVacuums

hornet's profile picture
I see now what you are talking about with the brush holder, try removing the screws and put some penetrating oil in the holes and give some heat to the metal and with a dowel of same size tap them out, see if that will remove them, if not prewire before installing motor to give you some extra space to connect the wires together, make sure to solder them and shrink tube them. Use wires that can handle heat.
Hope this helps you.



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