Thread Number: 44167  /  Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Electrolux 1205 - access to remove the motor?
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Post# 459939   2/1/2023 at 15:25 by ELuxL (Maryland)        

Hello. I recently received a neglected little Electrolux 1205 with bent plug prongs and no attachments, just a bag inside, which is empty. After gently straightening the prongs, making sure they are snug and not loose before plugging it in, it doesn't power on at all and the bag light doesn't illuminate. I'd like to see if I can get it working, so I'm disasembling it to clean and lube the motor. I'm stuck on how to remove the motor. I've searched online for a video or guide with no luck. I see the attachment screw ends and nuts to the black plastic casing the motor is in, one in each corner [see photos]. Is this the only way to detatch the motor or is there another access point? If it is, I'll need to find very long and narrow tools to reach them.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 6         View Full Size
Post# 459943 , Reply# 1   2/1/2023 at 16:09 by Oreck_XL (Brooklyn, New York 11211)        

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Those four sockets are the key. You will need extenders to get in there, and then the motor and the cover slide right out....

Post# 459944 , Reply# 2   2/1/2023 at 16:26 by ELuxL (Maryland)        

I guess its off to buy some socket extenders then. Thank you for your help!

Post# 459966 , Reply# 3   2/2/2023 at 08:33 by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        

Remember that Electrolux tanks will not run without bag.Then bag lock out switch & switch could be bad.But the main problem with 1205 was between cord and terminal strips on side of rear body.(This was changed on later Super J models.)With enough use far end cord could wear and break where it goes into reel.Then metal strips on CW may not contact strips in vac.Upper strip in above pic seems to show a bit of melted plastic.To service/lubricate motor is always a good idea.You have found the 4 nuts to remove.Then stand vac with bag end up and gently bump while holding hand on plastic cover to loosen.Some 1205s had metal brush sleeves that would slide into armature.The sleeves must be even with the outer edge of plastic holder.And carbon brushes if removed must go back in same position.Hope this helps.

Post# 460346 , Reply# 4   2/15/2023 at 21:12 by mjhoshaw (Western PA)        

Welcome, and I hope I'm not too late with this. In case you haven't already noticed, the fan end of the motor has a sealed ball bearing. As I recall the front bearing caps in the 1205 motors are riveted. If the bearing is noisy or feels rough you'll need to drill out the rivets to gain access to it, then use screws, lock washers, and nuts to re-assemble with your new bearing. Replacements are inexpensive, so I don't clean and re-lube the old bearing.


On the commutator end of the motor is a sleeve bearing with a large felt oil reservoir. Use only a light non-detergent motor oil on it, not grease. I don't remove the sheet metal cap that encloses the felt pad, because it was sealed at the factory to prevent seepage. After cleaning the working surface of the bearing with oily cotton swabs until the swab comes out clean, I add oil to the pad from the inside using an oiler with a long thin tube. The oil will pool on the inside of the cap. You'll see it disappear as it's absorbed into the pad. I stop adding oil when the rate of absorption slows. The pad will absorb quite a bit of oil, but be sure to stop before it won't take any more. I also add a drop of oil to the motor shaft before re-assembly. My personal experience is that if it's kept lubricated, the sleeve bearing will last the life of the motor.


Best of luck with your project! The 1205 is a great vacuum, and I love mine.




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