Thread Number: 44058
/ Tag: Small Appliances
New problem rises with the T-20..
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|Post# 458920   12/28/2022 at 22:42 (273 days old) by Hexamoron (Philadelphia)  || |
An update, or more of cry for help from the last post; the Radiant arrived safely and had the exact malfunction that was described (the messed up auto-drop). As I planned, I took it apart for cleaning as well as to search for the source of the problem.
Everything went smoothly, it began functioning better with a few small adjustments, not quite usable yet but close. This was, of course, until I moved to reattach the shells.
Since I had someone else help with the process, I might've not stressed clearly enough how /careful/ they needed to be with the toaster. After the shells were back on and the entire unit was reassembled to the way it was before, I went to test it.
I plugged it in and was met with a completely unresponsive unit. Usually when powered, it emits a low droning sound as is expected with something of its age, but there was not a single sound. It was as if it wasn't even plugged in at all, the /actual/ test was met with identical results, it would not drop, heat, raise, anything.
Taking it back down to the garage/workshop, I took the base off and found no issues with the cord or its connection, so I'll need to throw away the several hours it took to put the shells back on and take them /off/ again.
I don't know what to do, this seems like a hopeless situation, only made worse by the sentimental attachment I have to this toaster.
I may or may not be able to send further information tomorrow.
|Post# 458963 , Reply# 1   12/29/2022 at 20:58 (272 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
Is the carriage coming all the way to the top? It must do so in order for the unit to reset and allow the power to turn on when the bread is dropped in.
Did you find out why it never raised before?
|Post# 458987 , Reply# 2   12/30/2022 at 16:12 (271 days old) by Hexamoron (Philadelphia)  || |
The carriage is as high as it can go. I never figured out what the problem was as nothing inside looked inherently damaged. Some adjustments delayed the false-drop by a few seconds, but the unit stopped working entirely before I could complete the adjustments.
Right now the unit is completely silent and nothing will trigger, shouldn't it make an (at the very least) /faint/ electrical hum when plugged in?
|Post# 459004 , Reply# 3   12/30/2022 at 21:35 (271 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
The toaster will be silent until the electrical switch closes and the heaters turn on - then there will be a faint hum and the obvious heat and motion of the carriage.
Make sure the main switch is closing when the bread is inserted. Check for obstructions and its mechanical linkage.
In your last thread I added some youtube videos of the inner workings that will show you the switch and its location. Use an ohm meter to check if it is really closingif it appears to be.
My mom's mid 60's toastmaster 'broke' only one time when a big crumb lodged itself into the switch. I then taught her to never clean out the toaster my shaking it upside down. Drop the crumb tray and shake upright.
|Post# 459005 , Reply# 4   12/30/2022 at 21:38 (271 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
Also check the heater elements to make sure all are connected at the ends. They may be in series (not sure), so one break could disable all elements.
Have you measured 120V going into the toaster? It could be as simple as a bad plug end.
|Post# 459011 , Reply# 5   12/30/2022 at 22:38 (271 days old) by Hexamoron (Philadelphia)  || |
|Post# 459035 , Reply# 6   12/31/2022 at 18:45 (270 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
Do you have a friend or neighbor who is versed in minor electrical work? They may have a meter for you to borrow or even might test the cord and switch for you.
Here is where the barter system works great.
A volt/ohm meter is very inexpensive - like 5 bucks at harbor fright. These are must have tools for any electrical work. Without it a good diagnosis would be very difficult.
BTW I hope you are putting a current limiting resistor in series with the LED when you connect to the battery. :)
I remember from 40 years ago they flash bright - once - if you don't do this, lol.
I tend to learn the hard way.