Thread Number: 43980  /  Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Electrolux PN-1 tune up
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Post# 458334   12/1/2022 at 03:08 (511 days old) by CT77 (San Bernardino, CA)        

When I bought the Model G earlier, I cleaned it up and got it looking pretty decent. But I was never really happy with how the brush roll on the power nozzle still looked kind of grimey. I want to get a new brush roll, but I'm having kind of a hard time finding one. (The website I planned to order one from said it's on backorder). In the mean time, I thought I could just clean up the original one. So tonight, I decided to take apart the PN-1 again and see if I could get everything looking better.

Ha, it's amazing what you can do with fine steel wool and alcohol! It looks almost brand new!

But as it turns out, I'm glad I did take apart the power nozzle and took another look at the motor. It was really stiff, and the shaft was gummed up with dirt and old grease. I'm surprised it even worked when I had tested it before and I'm probably lucky the motor didn't overheat. I did clean up the motor before, but not internally. This time, I took it completely apart and cleaned the bearings and shaft. The motor turns MUCH better now and I noticed that it's not as loud.

The first picture is from before. Then, a few pictures while I had the PN-1 disassembled. I think the last picture is a big improvement :)

- Chris


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 5         View Full Size
Post# 458335 , Reply# 1   12/1/2022 at 03:34 (511 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
wow that cleaned up really nice, I never would have thought using steel wool on wood, i would have assumed it would rip the wood all apart to pieces.

wonder if you could spray the wood with some kind of varnish to help seal it from getting so dirty?


Post# 458337 , Reply# 2   12/1/2022 at 04:24 (511 days old) by CT77 (San Bernardino, CA)        

Well, I used a really fine gauge steel wool. I think it's 00. It didn't damage the wood at all.

I was thinking of trying polyurethane to seal it. Although honestly, I doubt I would use the nozzle often enough to get it that dirty. Lol it would take a LONG time to get it THAT dirty again!

I don't really plan on using any of my vintage Electrolux vacuums for anything too heavy. I mean, I'll use them - but mostly just for light cleaning. Lol for really dirty jobs, I'll use my little modern Dirt Devil.


Post# 458339 , Reply# 3   12/1/2022 at 07:36 (511 days old) by Paul (USA)        

Impressive, Chris!

Post# 458341 , Reply# 4   12/1/2022 at 08:24 (511 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
PN-1

Looks good!
This looks like the optional 3 row brush.These belts can last for years unlike other brands that used smooth belts.Another reason that 'Eletrolux is better-Better buy Electrolux'.


Post# 458347 , Reply# 5   12/1/2022 at 12:19 (511 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
I agree, Chris,

Looks great. I have used 0000 steel wool for this purpose and for smoothing out battle damage on plastic vacs before hitting them with a coat of gloss clear. Combined with 91% alcohol, you can remove a lot of base board grazes and discolorations. For mild scrapes I use a double-sided dish scrubby. The sponge side holds the alcohol, and the textured side does the work. The steel wool is for cleaning tough grime/dirt/debris.
Important to wipe everything clean with the alcohol and soft cloth before spray painting. MOST IMPORTANT when using gloss clear spray "paint", DO NOT shake the can at all. This will produce a less than desired effect.

Thanks so much for sharing!


Post# 458350 , Reply# 6   12/1/2022 at 13:39 (511 days old) by CT77 (San Bernardino, CA)        

Thank you for the replies, everyone!

Ha, I must have reassembled that little motor like 2 or 3 times. I'd forget a spacer or something and have to take it apart again. I could probably work on it with my eyes closed now!

For scuff marks on plastic, I've had pretty good luck with Mr Clean "magic erasers." It worked pretty good cleaning the case of the power nozzle.

- Chris


Post# 458352 , Reply# 7   12/1/2022 at 14:51 (511 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
I once to a pine 'cobblers bench' coffee table repaired and the guy who did it suggested I periodically go over it with a furniture polish called Finish Feeder (no longer manufactured, sadly) and #00 or #000 steel wool. He advised me to just go with the grain and not scrub very vigorously. I followed his instructions and it absolutely glowed when I was done.

You did a great job on that power nozzle. I just love the PN1, PN2, and PN4/4A power nozzles. They work as good as they look and are easy to repair or rebuild. I know what you mean about all the little pieces when you take the motor apart. I had a lot of fun (relative term) with that when I rebuilt one for a PN4A a year or two ago.

For some strange reason, I like customizing PN4 era power nozzles. I gave one a custom paint job that came out looking better than factory and gave another one a polished aluminum PN4 cover that looks much better than the scratched-up Silverado gray paint job. I think painting the the PN4 and 4A power nozzles to match the Olympia One and Silverado color schemes was a dreadful mistake. Polished aluminum is a much more durable finish.



Post# 458357 , Reply# 8   12/1/2022 at 20:47 (511 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Magic eracer,

I tried using that but found it disintegrated shortly after started to use it. That is why I switched to alcohol and a terry rag or non-stick pan scrubber.

Post# 458360 , Reply# 9   12/2/2022 at 00:57 (510 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Magic

lesinutah's profile picture
Eraser and diah soap and water for cleaning up plastic and metal. If you use a green dish scrubbing pad gets scuffs off nicely. If you have sticky or permanent markers r uubbing alcohol on cotton swabs works great.
Very nice clean up job.



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