Thread Number: 42258  /  Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Kirby Wheel Question
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Post# 444831   8/18/2021 at 08:37 (995 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        

I really want to take the Classic III front wheels off, but the screws seems frozen.
You don't suppose they are Loctite(ed) at the factory.

What is your course of action when you find the wheel screws seem frozen?


Post# 444834 , Reply# 1   8/18/2021 at 09:19 (995 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
Try shooting some penetrating lube on them, something like Liquid Wrench. Let it sit for a minute or two and try again. If they did use thread lock on the screws, that will effectively dissolve it. I also have a set of screwdriver sockets for my ratchet. They provide a little extra leverage to break stubborn screws loose. You can do the same thing by fitting a screwdriver bit into the proper size socket.

Post# 444839 , Reply# 2   8/18/2021 at 10:41 (995 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

Corrosion usually causes this.
Use a tightly fitting screwdriver, LOTS of downward force, and some firm rocking action to break it free.
As mentioned, a bit on a ratchet works very well. An impact driver would work if you go easy on the trigger (as in slow and easy).
If it starts to strip, try tightening it to see it it will break free in that direction.
If all else fails, the head I think is bigger than the axle. Pliers could be used on the head of the screw.


Post# 444842 , Reply# 3   8/18/2021 at 12:05 (995 days old) by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)        

If you don't have an impact screw driver, try tapping the end of a regular Philips with a hammer while twisting. Penetrating oil really helps here. Last resort, I had to drill the head off one that wouldn't budge.Don't MAKE me get the saws-all out next!

Post# 444843 , Reply# 4   8/18/2021 at 12:15 (995 days old) by Hoover300 (Kentucky)        
Uhh

hoover300's profile picture
They make stripped/seized screw removal kits for drills/impact drivers cheap. Can't use the screw again but it is cheap. Usually it is a small drill bit on one end of the bit, and a reverse screw on the end to latch into the screw and tighten into the screw enough so it loosens. I have the one below and love it, just need to find where I put it lol
www.walmart.com/ip/Widesk...


Post# 444858 , Reply# 5   8/18/2021 at 18:51 (995 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Thanks ALL!

After writing, I soaked them both with PB-Blaster. The ratchet idea is next, I am sure I have what I need for that. I do have an extractor mini set that was Dad's.
I also moved that extractor set at Walmart to my cart. Update will be coming.

Also, I realized the beautiful bag I have for this Classic III is for a Heritage II. Full length zipper was the first clue. I think it will need a inner setup to use paper bags. Arrrggghh...I hear these slow down the air flow.



Post# 444862 , Reply# 6   8/18/2021 at 21:25 (994 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
If

lesinutah's profile picture
You want to remove a screw a hammer drill will tear the screw up. Push the wheel against the axle away from the screw. Get vice grips good ones will lock into the outer edge of the screw. You spray what you will and the screw will come off. The classic 3 looks and functions better with a heritage 2 bag setup. Classic 3 and tradition OEM bags are made of flimsy material.

Post# 444879 , Reply# 7   8/19/2021 at 13:36 (994 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
So which emptor do you have on your Classic III? The original red metal one or the smoke colored plastic one that goes with the Heritage II bag? If you've got the original emptor, then all you'd really need is the proper red bag to make it all original. I'd think trying to use the H2 bag as a dump bag would not be very satisfactory.

I refurbed a Heritage 1HD about a year and a half ago and it had a dump bag, of which I am by no means a fan. I ended up converting it to use disposable bags with a Heritage II bag assembly I had on hand. I didn't particularly like the gray bag on it and eventually got a proper orange one, courtesy of a fellow member here. It's not completely original but the setup does have the advantage of using the same bags as all my other Kirbys.



Post# 444880 , Reply# 8   8/19/2021 at 13:58 (994 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
My Classic III

Has the metal/red plastic emptor. I went ahead and ordered a conversion "kit". It does have a wider hose than the set up for my tradition.

Yes, I may get the proper bag for CIII. This Heritage II bag is so new looking. I thought I would use it.

I have it apart right now, going to check the brushes. I found the snap on commutator brush cap dislodged and warped. Have a couple of these on order.

I got too interested in the Atlas, I have put the CIII aside in favor of the Atlas. I will switch back after the CIII parts come in.

Ciao!





Post# 445149 , Reply# 9   8/25/2021 at 21:40 (987 days old) by Rowdy141 (United Kingdom)        

rowdy141's profile picture
Pick the screw head (socket) clean and clear of dirt and rust.
A handheld tiny drill-bit will do. Make sure its deep enough to fully accommodate your screwdriver tip.

Try a NEW screwdriver (or new tip, if interchangeable) of the right size. Tips do wear, as they're supposed to, and a new one has so much better contact and torque.

Squirt a drop of WD-40 or Penetrating Oil where the Screw and Axle meet. Liquid Wrench was previously mentioned.

Fit Mole-grips or a spanner to the screwdriver's shaft for added turning force, while pressing down hard with your other hand.

Heat the axle side with a heated-up soldering iron. Careful not to damage the plastic wheel. Allow to cool, and repeat. This may 'shock' the joint apart inside.

Use an electric drill & screwdriver tip. Hammer action on, and set to the LOWEST (1) torque setting. This will act like an impact driver to shake/shock the seized joint whilst turning with minimal effect, so it doesn't strip the head or repeatedly jump out.

Buy a screw-extractor set from an ironmongers or motorists shop. They usually come in 4 or 5 different sizes. A screw-extractor will cut into the head and then grip like crazy. You'll need a replacement screw, but the axle will be intact.

Finally, when its out, clean then oil the inside thread on the axle. Otherwise your screw will quickly seize again.


Post# 445153 , Reply# 10   8/26/2021 at 00:37 (987 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
Cordless screwdriver. Got baked-on seized screws loose from my oven. No oil needed.

Post# 445195 , Reply# 11   8/26/2021 at 22:30 (986 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Shakes head

lesinutah's profile picture
Even the best drill bits slip. The all slip and using on an electric drill isn't smart. My.kirby 561 front lift wheel had this problem. I sprayed to loosen up stuck debris. In used my Milwaukee 18 Amp fuel 2 speed hammer drill. In layman terms you can find a better drill. I used my Bosch sleeve and Bosch number 2 but. It cannot be done better by any drill or bit combination. It would not loosen the screw. I turned the clutch speed up on hammer droll setting second speed.
It started to strip the screw.
I use my newest version of visr grips made. I clamped it down and slowly twisted. The stuck screw broke loose. You might be able to get lucky and not just ruin a screw but it's not something logically something I'd recommend.


Post# 445365 , Reply# 12   8/30/2021 at 10:38 (983 days old) by Rowdy141 (United Kingdom)        

rowdy141's profile picture
An electric drill works just fine.
If you're smart enough to use it properly.
You obviously don't use it at maximum revs, maximum torque, with a masonry bit. Nor do you drill as if looking for oil.

Now the last word, from LesInUtah:
Over to you Les!


Post# 445392 , Reply# 13   8/30/2021 at 22:53 (982 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
If

lesinutah's profile picture
You had any clue what I described. I'm not using a masonry but. I use power tools mostly drills and saws.
Do you know what a clutch is? Do you know what the speeds do on a drill. It's a Milwaukee fuel drill driver with a hammer drill setting. It also has a drill mode and screw mode.
The sleeve keeps the torque coming from the drill directly to the tip. Bosch tips are the best. I'm using the best drill a sleeve and the best bits on the right mode correctly.
I use a hammer drill to drill into concrete. So I can install a drop in to support a pipe that weighs 100 plus pounds.
Hilti makes the best hammer drill for concrete.
I'm not a dumb redneck hillbilly who doesn't know shut. If the oil isn't penetrating to where the screw is likely rusted and locked on. If a Milwaukee fuel drill driver in low speed with clutch on with a sleeve and the best bits made for drills doesn't bust it loose wtf do you think is going to happen to the energy created. It's not breaking loose the screw your going to rip the top of the screw off because the energy has to go somewhere.
I can torque a screw driver by hand with a lot more force than you I guarantee that.
If you read my posts and answer how you did you are the one who doesn't know how to use a drill. Just because it's a hammer drill driver doesn't mean it's for breaking up concrete or tile. If I can't bust loose a screw with vise grips which applies way more torque to the screw The last resort would be a torch.
I don't need to hear how your a mechanic and break loose things and work on heavy equipment all the time.
I'm smarter than you probably not bigger becuse your probably portly. I also guarantee I'm a lot stronger which comes from muscle mass not portliness. I could go on but I'm 6 3 225lbs built my hands are massive and I have a genius level IQ.
So go herd your family fix your tractor spit your tobacco and keep my name out of your mouth chubs. You wouldn't address me liken idiot in public unless you had a problem needing solved and God is my witness I would solve it.
Don't respond. People will read your post and mine. Let them think for themselves.


Post# 445688 , Reply# 14   9/6/2021 at 15:27 (976 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Geeeezzzz....

So I got the bright idea to grind the wheel screw across the philips X in order to use a large slot screw driver. MAN, these screws must be welded in place. so for the time being, I will find some replacement wheels (which are worn) and then, tackle these screws.

Post# 445748 , Reply# 15   9/7/2021 at 23:23 (974 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Ya

lesinutah's profile picture
My point above makes sense now you experiencing it. Monday I was fixing up a vacuum I'm doing for another collector nothing worked getting the screws off except my new channel lock vice grips. I got them off but no other way worked.


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