Thread Number: 40215
/ Tag: Small Appliances
Anybody Know About Lubricating Stuck Fans? Itís a Weird One.
|[Down to Last]|
|Post# 426931   6/14/2020 at 16:23 (217 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
I was hesitant to select the Small Appliance button to post this, but there was no button for gigantic belt-drive fans.
I just bought this 1950s Homart Cooler after years of searching for a good one. It came in the original box with parts, instruction manual, and even the original allen wrench for adjusting the pulleys or something. Had to have it.
I knew I should have oiled it before turning it on, but Iím an idiot.
It ran beautifully for about 30sec, then when I tried to stop and reverse it from intake to exhaust, it stopped turning altogether, in either direction.
I tried to give the blades a couple shoves to get it going, but it wouldnít take off. I didnít leave it on like this for more than a few seconds, but it still smelled like it was burning a little.
Iím not too concerned yet. It probably just got hot enough for a second to heat up 60yrs of old grease, oil, dust, and hair. Iím fairly confident that with proper lubrication, it will run like new.
My question is this- how important is it to take it apart and clean the old oil off the shaft & bearings first?
My first instinct is to do it, of course, but it ran so beautifully, before it didnít. It had no shaking, wobbling, knocking, or ticking, which is incredibly lucky for one of these 60+yr old beasts.
Iím afraid if I break it all down & put it back together, something will be off-balance and I wonít be able to fix it, and it will wobble and tick.
Could I just flood it with WD40, spin it a bit, blow it out with a can of air, then lube it properly? Or something?
One other thing- Nobody seems to agree on if the shaft takes oil or grease.
I have the manual, and it seems to have come with a tube of proprietary Sears Roebuck "Dripless Lubricant".
That sounds like grease to me. Any thoughts?
Thank you for your time.
P.S. The two screws on the top of the shaft are where you add the lubricant. I heard the tube of Sears lube screwed right into the holes to squeeze it in.
|Post# 426946 , Reply# 1   6/14/2020 at 19:34 (217 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
You most likely did not kill it with what you did. The burning smell is most likely from the friction in bearings, burning the ex-lube and dust and dirt.
If you need to use it NOW, as in an emergency (A/C down or such), then some WD40 to soften up the old ex-lube, and some new oil can be used just to get it going for temporary use. Very temporary. If you do this, it WILL get stuck again, as the dirt and dust will still be in there and the old stuff will not totally soften up.
If not an emergency, then it must be torn down completely (motor also) and all traces of old lube and embedded dirt must be removed, bearings soaked in solvent, and relubricated with proper lubes. I would not be able to say what to use until it is torn down as I cannot see the bearings.
Currently the liquid carrier in the old grease and oil has evaporated, leaving only the solids, which at this point is more like glue. Dust and dirt is in it as well and needs to be removed before it embeds into the pores of the bearings (if bronze sleeve type).
If this seems beyond your capabilities, then try to find someone who can do it for you. Either pay them or return the favor somehow.
If you lived in my area, I would take it on as I have done probably 100 fans in my life and saved many from the trash that were stuck like yours.
This thing looks really nice and is well worth the effort to do it right the first time. This would give it a few more DECADES of life. :o)
|Post# 426950 , Reply# 2   6/14/2020 at 20:29 (217 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
This is not what I wanted to hear. LOL
Yes, theyíre the bronze bearings, too.
Iím sure I can take it apart, clean it, and put it back together, but will it still be smooth and balanced? Or is this a tricky procedure?
Iím a fairly respectable handyman, but this is new territory that I donít want to screw up.
Thanks again fir your time!
|Post# 426952 , Reply# 3   6/14/2020 at 22:04 (217 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
I know you did not want to hear what I wrote, but this is what is best for the fan, as well as the owner who wishes to enjoy it.
Running it as is for long could easily damage it.
As long as you do not bend the blades, you should be fine. Mark where the pulley and blade hub go on the shaft if they are not keyed. Seriously doubt that mismatching their positions will cause an imbalance but better to err on the side of caution.
If the pulley is stuck on, you will need an appropriate puller to not damage it.
You will want to soak the bronze bearings in solvent to fully dissolve the ex-lube. Use brushes on them and soak again. Take note of any felt pieces that might be used to store extra oil. They might need replacing if they cannot be cleaned.
Also be sure to use the 3-in-1 electric motor oil in the blue container for final oiling.
Let me know if you need help or anything and hope you keep this post updated.
I am a fan of fans myself and love seeing these restored to their original condition. This one you have is very unique.
|Post# 426971 , Reply# 4   6/15/2020 at 01:11 (217 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Thank you SO MUCH! Sounds like sound advice! Iíll do everything you said.
Pulley... puller. Check.
"Ex-lube" 😜 well put.
I imagine Iíll soak the bearings in a Gumout carburetor cleaner.
I wasnít sure what kind of lubricant to use, so I already ordered a 100% synthetic oil called Liquid Bearings thatís supposed to be good at displacing vintage ex-lubes.
I do have a blue bottle of 3 in 1 though. I intended to use that on the motor.
Iíll definitely try to do this right and post my progress.
This is my 3rd Homart Cooler, by the way.
My 1st one was from a garage sale over 20yrs ago. I adored it. Everyone who gets one cherishes them.
They move 3000 cubic feet of air per minute and are literally quieter than a little desk fan.
Well it died in a basement flood. It was too hard to figure out how to fix something like that b4 the internet, so I ditched it.
I recently bought a 2nd one, but it appears to have been dropped. The screen doesnít line up right and it has an irritating tick-tick-tick...
So I kept looking until this one popped up.
Iím hoping to restore it to like-new.
Iím going to try to match the original paint and just touch it up with my airbrush, then give it a good 2-stage clear coat.
|Post# 426975 , Reply# 5   6/15/2020 at 02:30 (217 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
If the bearings are sintered bronze bearings, I would not soak them in any solvent, as they will absorb it like a sponge. Although, if they are indeed sintered bronze, being NOS, they should still have good oil in them, and really should not have failed. Perhaps all they need is a little oil to get them started.
Ideally, identifying the bearing type should be first. It's unlikely they're ball bearings. So that leaves either plain bronze or sintered bronze. Plain will appear uniform in color and texture, sintered looks more like damascus. The other giveaway will be a plain bearing must have a hole through it to let oil onto the shaft. Sintered bearings will have no such hole, as they are porous and the oil is meant to flow through them.
|Post# 426984 , Reply# 6   6/15/2020 at 08:23 (216 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Theyíre the porous bronze. Sintered, I guess.
|Post# 426985 , Reply# 7   6/15/2020 at 08:26 (216 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Hereís the manual, in case anyone is ever interested.
Iím sure someone someday will be excited to find this.
|Post# 427067 , Reply# 8   6/16/2020 at 17:25 (215 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
I found this when I pulled out the motor-
Itís from the 50s, but itís been capped.
I wonder if I should use this, or 3-in-1, or "Liquid Bearing" synthetic oil.
|Post# 427071 , Reply# 9   6/16/2020 at 19:05 (215 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)  || |
|Post# 427075 , Reply# 10   6/16/2020 at 20:00 (215 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
Put a drop or two of that old stuff on a paper towel and check the viscosity. Compare with some oils you already have. If it seems very thick, or is discolored, do not use.
The motor should definitely get the 20W 3in1 blue can motor oil.
Post some pics of the shaft bearings when you get it all apart and we can suggest what to use there if the original stuff is no good. If it seems good, then use it and see how it goes.
I really like belt drive fans. Using a slower blade speed and deeper blade pitch, more air moves with less noise. Down side is more maintenance...
|Post# 427078 , Reply# 11   6/16/2020 at 20:44 (215 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Yeah, Les, this thing continues to amaze me.
I fully expected to have to paint the inside at least, but I keep wiping off grease & gunk and finding pristine paint underneath. 😁
The shaft looks really good. There are rings worn into it, but you cannot feel them.
This Sears lubricant is a little dark and uh,... chewy. 😏
It required a pretty good squeeze to get any out.
This crap ainít goiní on MY bearings. Weíre calling it an artifact for posterity.
Hereís the shaft housing. I certainly hope nobodyís going to suggest I try to bang these bearings out. I think this is the end of my comfort zone, as far as dismantling critical and irreplaceable mechanisms.
One bearing does have a couple squiggly streaks of wear, in case itís not clear whatís going on in the photos.
I think my pictures lose a significant amount of detail when I upload them. 🤨
This fan will only see occasional use from now on, so I imagine it will be fine if I just clean it up with Gumout carburetor cleaner, slap it back together, & oil it.
The motor, on the other hand, seems to need a little more attention, which frightens me.
The last time I cracked open an old fan motor, parts went everywhere and some kind of important and fibrous washers crumbled to dust.
|Post# 427107 , Reply# 12   6/17/2020 at 03:12 (215 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
|Post# 427116 , Reply# 13   6/17/2020 at 10:52 (214 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Interesting theory, MadMan. The damaged spots are bright like a new penny, suggesting theyíre new, but I donít understand what could have caused them. The shaft is as smooth as glass. Itís just weird.
Anyway, now Iím just waiting for delivery of oil, Gumout, and electronics cleaner for the buttons (theyíre really stiff) from Amazon, so progress is paused.
But tune in next week for the continuing adventures of Homart. ⏳
|Post# 427122 , Reply# 14   6/17/2020 at 13:49 (214 days old) by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)  || |
If you were to take hold of the motor shaft can you move it back and forth, Does there seem to be any play? This isn't in relation to what you've been talking about really,but something that I see with a lot of high mileage electric fan motors. I have a 60 yr. old Superlectric box fan and you can slide the shaft about 1/4 " back and forth. It doesn't seem to affect anything, you can hear a slight thump when you turn it on, as the thrust pushes it. Try checking yours for excessive play after you get it put back together and oiled. I'm hoping MadMan will comment on what if anything can be done. This is your third of these fans and I've never seen them before,quite unique! If you have a can of electronic contact cleaner w/lubricant that should help with the switches binding.I'd use that fan on the regular if you get it running smooth.
|Post# 427140 , Reply# 15   6/17/2020 at 18:03 (214 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
It does have a little play, but only about 1mm. So basically, not really. 😜
Iíve cleaned and restored a lot of vintage appliances, and Iíll tell ya, this fan really doesnít look like itís seen much action.
These buttons feel like they have old molasses in them though. Iíd really like to open it up & clean it, but itís riveted shut and Iím not thinking about drilling it at this point.
I ordered this spray for it, hoping it would flush out the gunk.
It doesnít lubricate, but I can spray it with silicone lube after I clean it, right?
View Full Size
|Post# 427145 , Reply# 16   6/17/2020 at 19:57 (214 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
Do not pound out the bearings - just clean them in place with lots of Q-tips dipped in lacquer thinner or other petrol based solvent. Keep scrubbing until no more discoloration occurs. You could even use paper towels wrapped on a screwdriver to start.
Clean the heck out of the shaft as well.
The clean spots in the bearings look to have been caused when you were pulling the shaft out. A raised spot at the end may have done it as you twisted it out. If there is a raised spot, file it some before reinserting.
I kinda expected that lube was gone - same concept of paint drying in factory sealed cans. KEEP it though as an artifact. Now you know why I call it 'ex-lube'! The lube in the bearings was even drier than that, which is why it stalled. Clean the heck out of them bearings! Carb cleaner should work if it is petrol based.
Motor certainly needs opening, but do so slowly and take pictures on where parts go. IF you need any fibre washers, let me know and I can send you some. I needed a few for my fans but I had to buy a kit of a thousand or so to get the sizes I needed, lol...
That contact cleaner might work for the switch but keep it off visible plastics, as it could discolor it despite being 'plastic safe'. If that don't work, get your drill out and do it right! :o) Bet there is more dried grease and dirt in it, too.
You are doing well at this project - I miss restoring fans but I have way too many now. I even had to sell some off...
|Post# 427146 , Reply# 17   6/17/2020 at 20:10 (214 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
The more I think about that lube, I think it might have been a light grease, kinda like lithium grease. The oils in the stuff gradually penetrate the pores in the bearings. I think yours might be too heavy now, lol.
I do agree - 'dripless' does sound like grease.
Poke around in there to see if there are any open channels that go from the screw hole along the bearings...
In relation, many old oscillating fans had no rear oil port as the gearbox grease kept the rear bearing lubed, at least until it turns to tar after 50-100+ years. I have seen little grease channels in some of castings.
|Post# 427161 , Reply# 18   6/18/2020 at 02:15 (214 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
Thoughts about the bearing score marks. First, they are probably minor enough not to be of any consequence. As long as there is no radial play, it's fine. I replaced my friend's attic fan today and I remembered something. The bearing was probably scratched when you pulled the shaft out through the bearing. It's likely the set screw mark or some other defect on the pulley side of the shaft is raised and gouged out the bearing when you pulled it out. Make sure to file down any imperfections that could gouge the bearing, before pulling out the shaft.
As for the oiling, just wipe off the inside of the bearing, coat it and the shaft with regular motor oil, and drip some in the oil holes, and hope for the best. You'd probably have to run the fan for several hours, if not days, before you would know for sure if it will be ok.
The harder option is to re-oil the bearings. But realistically, it would be easier simply to replace the bearing entirely, as you'd need to press it out of the holder anyway. And yes, a press would be ideal, though I suppose you could use a big vise to press the bearing out. A new bearing could be had at some hardware stores or on McMaster or Grainger.
|Post# 427193 , Reply# 19   6/18/2020 at 15:11 (213 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Thatís certainly what did it. The marks are even in shapes that would be left according to how I remember twisting the shaft out, and theyíre in the top, where the screw is.
Not sure how I missed that. 🥴
|Post# 427213 , Reply# 20   6/18/2020 at 18:51 (213 days old) by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)  || |
Are these used for soaking up oil and supplying it to the bearings or the shaft, or are they used as soft washers for spacing, kind of like packing. Hope I made sense,thanks!
|Post# 427218 , Reply# 21   6/18/2020 at 20:05 (213 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
I figured the marks in the bearing was from a raised spot on the shaft...
Felt washers for oil retainers, fibre washers for spacing.
If you do press the bearings out, you might as well go all out and clear out the pores if you cannot buy new ones that fit. I have a procedure from the former DT vintage fans site that I can share. It involves soaking them in extremely hot oil (to expand the the pores some and melt the gunk) and then using a compressed air gun with rubber tip and a rubber mat to literally blow the pores out. All depends on how much fun you wish to have. :o)
|Post# 427250 , Reply# 22   6/18/2020 at 23:38 (213 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
...or you can just heat the bearing until it weeps all its oil out. Then submerge it in oil, in a vacuum chamber, until it stops bubbling. But like I was saying, that'd be a lot of work when a new bearing is almost certainly available.
Felt washers - I have seen some motors use soft felt washers as thrust washers. I suppose the idea is that instead of adjusting the thrust play, they just use a thick squishy felt washer to compensate.
|Post# 427260 , Reply# 23   6/19/2020 at 09:29 (212 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Iím not banging out bearings or heating anything.
Everything looks pretty good to me.
I got the old amber grease chunks out with carburetor cleaner and tiny pipe cleaners. It was like cleaning the dirtiest ears ever.
Got a little high (unintentionally). That Gumoutís a trip. 😏
Iím just going to put Liquid Bearing synthetic oil in it, run it a little bit, then put Super-Lube synthetic grease in it.
Thatíll be fine. These things are tough.
This post was last edited 06/19/2020 at 09:48
|Post# 427262 , Reply# 24   6/19/2020 at 09:46 (212 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
I pulled this timer out of my donor fan to put in this one.
It wasnít working. I thought Iíd just clean & oil it and jiggle things a bit and it would go, but as it turns out the problem is a short in the wire.
Unfortunately, the short is tight against the plug which is riveted shut.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to do at this juncture?
I would prefer to just buy a new... plug-socket thing, but I canít imagine how to google it. I doubt "plug socket thing" would get productive results. What is this thing called???
Iím sure I could drill out the rivets, but I might not be able to get it back together.
|Post# 427263 , Reply# 25   6/19/2020 at 09:55 (212 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
That plug is very unique - I would certainly drill the rivet out and rewire it.
You can still buy 'replacement AC plugs' or 'quick plugs' but I have never seen one with a socket in it. Check ebay as there may be some old stock of a similar thing.
If you replace it and do not want it, I would - nice bit of electrical history there.
|Post# 427264 , Reply# 26   6/19/2020 at 09:56 (212 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
Wait - in picture 3, are those screws hidden under the gunk?
|Post# 427265 , Reply# 27   6/19/2020 at 10:10 (212 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
I probably should have explained-
The cords on these fans are basically like an extension cord, with a female 2-prong plug inside the fan.
The motor has a regular male 2-prong plug.🔌
They just bolted the motors into the bodies and plugged them into the power cords.
On the fans that got the timers, this oddball plug-socket went in between them. The motor plugs into the plug-socket, then the plug-socket plugs into the cord.
When the timer stops, it interrupts the circuit.
Ya gotta love how America built things back then. ❤️
|Post# 427266 , Reply# 28   6/19/2020 at 10:11 (212 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Just 3 brass rivets.
|Post# 427437 , Reply# 29   6/20/2020 at 21:02 (211 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
Christmas tree lights plugs are like that, however, they are designed as a pass-through, not to have a take-off for interrupting the circuit. Cannot find an equivalent on McMaster. The other option would be to simply have one cord with a plug, and add a second cord with a socket.
Also, the rivets look like they still have the pins in them. Normally, you need to punch those through first, then drill, but who knows if there is room behind them to punch them through.
|Post# 427478 , Reply# 30   6/21/2020 at 18:29 (210 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
Was looking for meters in my junk, and found this. The plug looks 100% identical to yours. But it has 2 screws holding it together. The 3 visible rivets only hold on the prongs, so drilling them would be a moot point. Yours actually has screws, I can see them in the picture. They're so filthy and rusted that they're camouflaged.
View Full Size
|Post# 427479 , Reply# 31   6/21/2020 at 18:32 (210 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
Forgot to mention, the wires are soldered into those 3 rivets.
View Full Size
|Post# 427482 , Reply# 32   6/21/2020 at 19:08 (210 days old) by Oldsuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Holy crap! I didnít see those at ALL!
Texaskirbyguy even pointed them out and I still missed them.
Man, Iím slipping. 😒
Imagine how mad I would have been if I had drilled those rivets, then found the screws.
Multiple heads are better than one! (With the exception of Greek mythology and Chernobyl family planning)
You guys are so helpful and encouraging. I really appreciate your time spent helping me.
|Post# 427501 , Reply# 33   6/22/2020 at 00:46 (210 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)  || |
Guys c'mon the cord end is crap. If you have wire cutters I'll keep it some.
Males have plug outside the other is female.
Cut the plug off. Strip about a half inch of the cord plastic. This leaves you with what you attach to the plug shown.
Here is another idea. If you have a lamp with an online switch or you can get one at a thrift store for a dollar. Scrap the whole wire and use the lamp in place of this shoddy plug.
I don't know why everyone is telling you how to take apart the plug.
Just thought I'd suggest an easier alternative.
View Full Size
|Post# 427505 , Reply# 34   6/22/2020 at 02:22 (210 days old) by Oldsuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Call me a purist. I like the original plug.
If the fan was rusty with 3 coats of paint and needed serious restoration, I might be more open to bastardizing it with bulky, modern, dayglow-yellow hardware, especially if I were going to put it to work in a garage or something. But this fan isnít far from museum quality. It will be used lightly around the house and get plenty of luviní.
Iím happy to go the extra mile to retain that time-warp experience you get when you see a piece like this. 😎
But thank you for your input.
|Post# 427555 , Reply# 35   6/23/2020 at 01:26 (209 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
|Post# 427623 , Reply# 36   6/24/2020 at 16:48 (207 days old) by Oldsuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Yeah, that was a head-scratcher for a second. lol
Iím so tired, I forgot for a minute, this fan didnít have the timer option, unfortunately.
You could buy them with or without.
But as I mentioned earlier, I pulled this timer from another Homart Cooler I bought last year on fleabay. Itís condition was a bit disappointing when I opened it, so my search continued for another.
I thought Iíd sell it when I found a better one, but I canít. I love them both. 😜
So now I have the inside princess and the outside workhorse for the patio & garage.
The princess got the workhorseís timer.
|Post# 427671 , Reply# 37   6/25/2020 at 18:09 (206 days old) by Oreck_XL (Brooklyn, New York 11211)  || |
We use this miracle lubricant at work. It frees up sewing machines that have been bound up for years! If this can't free it up, it CAN'T be done.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO Oreck_XL's LINK
|Post# 427754 , Reply# 38   6/27/2020 at 09:13 (204 days old) by Oldsuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Well, I sprayed the on/off/reverse/speed switch with that electronics cleaning spray.
Strong stuff. It blasted through every nook & cranny leaving it as clean as a whistle before instantly evaporating. It seems like a pretty good product, generally speaking, just not so much for this particular switch, as it left it locked-up, solid as a rock.
I donít fault the cleaner though. After drilling the rivets and popping it open, I found it to be a rather strange switching mechanism. Itís impossible to describe, so see for yourself.
I worked a little synthetic oil in between those sliding... whatcha-muhjiggers, and let it sit overnight.
Now it seems to be working as well as it ever did, which I suspect was never the responsive pop & click one might expect, but rather more of a sludgy submission to oneís selection. Whatever.
Moving on to the timer transplant. I kinda feel like Iím putting Keith Richardís liver in 12yr old here.
I sprayed the plugís screws with WD40 and left it overnight. They came out pretty easily, revealing the fact that I finally needed to break down and order a soldering iron.
While waiting for that, I checked the timer mechanism over and found it to be fairly well stuck solid.
I opened it, pulled the movement out and oiled it, jiggled it, played with the gears, and got nothing.
I see some rust on a couple gear pins. I do not want to take apart the movement and have to figure out how to put it all back together. Forget that. Iím as deep into this rabbit hole as I intend to go.
So I sprayed it with WD40 and put it down for the night.
Iíll see where we are later today.
My paints came already, so once Iím done playing with this timer (one way- or the other🏳️💀) Iíll be moving on to touching up chips, then polishing.
|Post# 427824 , Reply# 39   6/28/2020 at 19:07 (203 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
|Post# 427861 , Reply# 40   6/29/2020 at 09:50 (202 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Thanks. Iím pretty sure my solder has a flux core. (Hoping 🙄)
I jiggled and futzed with the gears on that timer movement and I couldnít get it to run for more than a second or two, so I blasted it with that electronics cleaner.
That stuff has so much pressure, it blew out a pin hole in the Little red sprayer straw ("aerosol tip extension tube"). Now it shoots a tiny stream out to my left when I spray it. 😜
That blew a significant amount of dust/grit/debris out onto the paper towel.
Then I oiled it again with the synthetic lube (Liquid Bearings). After patiently jiggling & futzing for another 10-15min, it finally seems to have come back to life.
Itís a 10hr timer, so I had to wait overnight to see if it would run all the way down and trip the circuit release mechanism. Iíll find out in a couple hours. Then matching that paint is next. Thatís a little intimidating. Normally Iíd go to an auto-paint supply nearby and have them scan the fan and let them make it, but Iím in Texas during the pandemic. These people are idiots. Nobody is wearing masks or staying 6ft apart. The hospital beds are all full and overflowing into emergency tents set up at the stadium.
Iím not dying for touchup paint. 😒
View Full Size
|Post# 427895 , Reply# 41   6/29/2020 at 19:05 (202 days old) by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)  || |
For staying safe. I can say this is the first time in years where I didn't catch some form of flu virus and I always do, but with the extra cautions taken, it made a difference. I bought the highly recommended and widely used Radio Shack cleaner and lubricant for electronics, It does the job for sure, I just wasn't ready for the intense blast from the pressure. You also don't want to spray a finger, it's a bit chilly. I was wondering if the rapid temp change would be hard on soldered connections and the like. I wasn't spraying directly on circuit boards but I could hear a crackling noise when the spray got away from me and on to parts unseen but heard. I'll stick to using the regular contact cleaner for contacts and the like and use the afore mentioned for parts that move or slide or mesh or... " I kinda feel like Iím putting Keith Richardís liver in 12yr old here." From your earlier reply, I like it!
|Post# 427896 , Reply# 42   6/29/2020 at 19:15 (202 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)  || |
WD-40 on electrical connections I'm not so sure about that.
The electrical cleaner for car batteries and electrical is all I'd use on cleaning the electrical.
Wear a mask people. If your out clean your hands and never rub your eyes that's how it spreads. You don't want to get sick it's miserable as hell. Be safe and you don't have to worry.
|Post# 428068 , Reply# 43   7/3/2020 at 11:04 (198 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
After about 13 tries, I finally got the color for the touchup paint.
Itís not perfect, but itís close enough for me.
I also used it on a pair of custom handles I installed.
I know. Iím a purist and very against customizing, especially something so pristine, but sometimes itís necessary.
These fans were designed to be installed in a window permanently, more or less, but since the modern air-conditioner found itís way into every home, itís become an appliance that gets moved around according to need. It weighs about 411lbs with nothing to grab onto but sharp steel edges, and having all the weight on one side ensures that it cuts into your fingers most efficiently. Itís enough to keep you from even using it sometimes, so something had to be done.
I did, at least, manage to find a classic style thatís period-correct, and luckily the style seems to blend agreeably with the fanís design.
|Post# 428096 , Reply# 44   7/3/2020 at 20:42 (198 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)  || |
Wow - give yourself a big pat on the back for that paint matching! I had to do the same long ago for repainting some instrument clusters for a vintage car.
Did you get the motor apart and relubed? Does it have ball or sleeve bearings? Almost looks like balls...
Nice to know I am not the only one who goes out on a limb to keep things looking original. Keep up the great work!
411 pounds? That thing must be a monster! :o)
|Post# 428123 , Reply# 45   7/4/2020 at 02:57 (198 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
The motor looks very similar to the Delco motor in my Kenmore wringer washer. That's got solid bronze sleeve bearings with big oil felts that directly oil the shaft. It doesn't really have oil ports, you have to take it apart to oil it. Strangely, one of the bearings was missing most of the oil felt on mine. Not sure why, didn't look like it had been opened before.
|Post# 428126 , Reply# 46   7/4/2020 at 05:00 (198 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Thanks, texaskirbyguy & MadMan.
No. I couldnít bring myself to open the motor. I couldnít find any photos or videos of this motor being opened and I was convinced I would cock it up somehow.
Iíll try to find an exploded view of it and maybe do it this winter.
The Liquid Bearing label says itís supposed to displace old gunky grease & oil, so itís in their hands for now.
|Post# 428127 , Reply# 47   7/4/2020 at 06:05 (197 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
Believe it or not, I finally got that gnarly timer looking decent and running like a top.
Iíve never had a project like this in my life. Every facet of it goes more easily and turns out better than expected. Itís like hitting all green lights when youíre running late. 😎
I kept the timer movement by my bed and nudged it along every time it stopped ticking for a few days while I watched TV. Eventually it didnít need my help anymore.
Soldering the old plug wiring was fun, even though I seared my palm checking to see if it was cool enough to put away afterwards. Note to Self: Be sure youíve unplugged the soldering iron before expecting it to cool off.
I removed the previous ownerís spray paint from the faceplate with chemical stripper. It dissolved long before the factory enamel even softened.
Residual staining and oxidation was removed with my trusty cutting compound.
The on/off/reverse switch has much better, more decisive pop & click action now that the unit it firmly mounted in place.
Once I finally had the fan all reassembled, I was scared to plug it in. I thought for sure sparks were going to fly, or the blades were going to ricochet out, embedding in the surrounding walls like a tornado movie.
When it whirred to life just as it was designed to, you could have knocked me over with a feather.
Iím crediting 1950s American engineering for the ease of this entire restoration.
This thing will blow the wallpaper off the walls without hardly making a sound.
Thereís no clicking, ticking, pinging, squeaking, or rattling, not even the faintest motor hum. The only thing you hear is the sound of the ferociously angled blades pushing air like a freight train.
On a white noise scale, itís practically pharmaceutical.
Now I just have to figure out where to put this thing.
|Post# 428135 , Reply# 48   7/4/2020 at 10:45 (197 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)  || |
|Post# 428145 , Reply# 49   7/4/2020 at 12:27 (197 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )  || |
I was just being hyperbolic.
By 411lbs, I meant roughly a f£#k-ton.
Although, coincidentally, I donít imagine 41lbs is far from accurate, but it sure feels like more when the motor-end is pulling down and itís cutting into your fingers.
Itís about as awkward as a cow on crutches.
(Thanks, Les. 😁)
|Post# 428158 , Reply# 50   7/4/2020 at 20:54 (197 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)  || |
|Post# 428672 , Reply# 51   7/16/2020 at 10:01 (185 days old) by gottahaveahoove (Pittston, Pennsylvania, 18640)  || |
|Post# 428717 , Reply# 52   7/17/2020 at 15:20 (184 days old) by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)  || |
Literally after all you've done. Somehow I missed the part about this fan being belt driven. Have seen them in industrial settings but not for the home before. With the pitch on those blades I imagine there is some serious air movement going on at all speeds.Everything's been said before so I'll just say Kudos on the resto and thanks for the tip on soldering irons that stay hot while plugged in, Roger that!