Thread Number: 13083
Golden J Repair Question
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Post# 139460   6/11/2011 at 17:04 (4,638 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

I have begun tearing down the Golden J as it smells as though something was cleaned up that should not have been.... At any rate, this is likely a laughable question but I am perplexed at how to open up the tank past this point. Both as far as removing the bag compartment area and accessing the motor as well. Any help would be greatly appriciated!

Post# 139461 , Reply# 1   6/11/2011 at 17:05 (4,638 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Pic 2

Post# 139465 , Reply# 2   6/11/2011 at 17:30 (4,638 days old) by minivanmegafun ()        

I did a teardown of my Diamond J a while back and took photos - I imagine the Golden J is much the same.

At the state you're in, the bag compartment should just lift out (after unhooking that vacuum line you see on the outside running to the cord winder in the back), and to get any farther you need to remove the cord winder.

See the link I've posted - it should be helpful.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO minivanmegafun's LINK


Post# 139499 , Reply# 3   6/11/2011 at 23:58 (4,638 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Thanks so much for that info!

Post# 139511 , Reply# 4   6/12/2011 at 07:42 (4,637 days old) by pnluxconvlvr (Georgia)        
That is a great link!

pnluxconvlvr's profile picture
Wish I had taken more pictures of the more messy stages of my rebuilds. If this helps I was able to find the clear tubing and a lot of replacement washers and screws at Lowes after looking everywhere. :)Tyler

Post# 139542 , Reply# 5   6/12/2011 at 15:42 (4,637 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Well I have the entire machine apart and have soaked all the parts I can to get rid of the stench (it appears to have worked). However, removing the cordwinder was a bit difficult, I pulled a bit to hard and slightly bent (see 1st pic) one of the copper leads. Unlike the very helpful link above, the copper leads appear to connect directly to the apparatus in pic #2. I am a bit stumped on how to put this back together, and if the bent lead is going to cause a major issue...

Post# 139544 , Reply# 6   6/12/2011 at 15:44 (4,637 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

pic #2

Post# 139546 , Reply# 7   6/12/2011 at 16:10 (4,637 days old) by Crevicetool (GA )        

It looks to me as if the brass connector on the cordwinder assembly somehow soldered itself to the junction block on the body. From the pictures, it looks like the mating surface of the lug on the junction block has a small "hole or dent" - am I correct? You may have to dress the two points of connection lightly with sand paper. You can re-bend the brass connector then and should be fine.

This may explain the difficulty of removing the cordwinder assembly. You'll have to work gingerly, as the leads won't take a lot of stress bending and re-bending.


Post# 139547 , Reply# 8   6/12/2011 at 16:11 (4,637 days old) by Crevicetool (GA )        

I can't tell in the picture, is there a corresponding mark on the brass lead?

Post# 139548 , Reply# 9   6/12/2011 at 16:15 (4,637 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Yes, on the junction block there is a small hole in the third area above the yellow wire. I was confused as to why the first two areas appear solid (ie no hole) it alomst looked as if something was missing....

Post# 139552 , Reply# 10   6/12/2011 at 16:26 (4,637 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Also, yes there are marks on the brass lead showing that there would be a mating between the two (hole and lead). The concern I have as you can see here in the 2nd pic is that there is a small flange that snaps into a channel on the cord winder. I certainly do not want to break the copper, is there a trick to bend it and get it snapped in channel???

Post# 139553 , Reply# 11   6/12/2011 at 16:27 (4,637 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

flange pic

Post# 139554 , Reply# 12   6/12/2011 at 16:34 (4,637 days old) by Crevicetool (GA )        

If I were doing it, I would take two needle nosed pliers and bend the brass until it is reshaped. Then, I would position it inside the flange. As long as the two surfaces make good contact, the leads really don't have to be perfect looking. When reassembling the two units, I would try to not install and reinstall the two halves too many times. Otherwise they leads might break.


Post# 139582 , Reply# 13   6/12/2011 at 20:21 (4,637 days old) by goadie12 ()        

cant wait to see pics when it is done


Post# 139583 , Reply# 14   6/12/2011 at 20:25 (4,637 days old) by pnluxconvlvr (Georgia)        
Everything will be fine.

pnluxconvlvr's profile picture
If by the off chance something did happen you could get a new corwinder and install the original gold outer facia onto it and just do a little rewire with connectors and a crimping tool. It is very interesting that my tanks even the identical same on the outside have differsnt connections on the inside. One has the "plug in" type as on yours and the other has male leads on the corwinder and female leads on wiring running from the front. So you could change it if you had to by drilling out the rivets and removing the connector mounted to the tank. The holes would not show because they are under the side bumper strip. :) Tyler

Post# 139589 , Reply# 15   6/12/2011 at 20:59 (4,637 days old) by pnluxconvlvr (Georgia)        
By the way.......

pnluxconvlvr's profile picture
.......I am envious of you getting to rebuild that great Electrolux. I was born in Milwaukee. I really like WI.


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