Thread Number: 12416
516 Resto Begins... Questions
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Post# 132812   4/17/2011 at 21:16 (4,701 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Let me start by saying I am a complete novice to this. Does anyone have a good method of removing the belt lifter assembly and to remove the bumper do you just cut out the rivets and replace them with new one? Sorry if this seems trival but I am learnin here :)

Post# 132820 , Reply# 1   4/17/2011 at 22:06 (4,701 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Also, any information on how to remove the headlight housing would be helpful :)

Post# 132822 , Reply# 2   4/17/2011 at 22:10 (4,701 days old) by Brandon_W_T ()        

To remove the light cap, knock the pin out. Thats all that is. Friction fit. :)

The belt lifter is held in by a screw in the housing I believe. Its been a long time since I removed one so I am 100%.

Once the screw is removed, the belt lifter can spin infinitely, and will reach a point where it can be maneuvered out.

Haven't done removal and replacement of trim. That requires riveting skills. I leave that to the local vac shop.

Post# 132831 , Reply# 3   4/17/2011 at 22:39 (4,701 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

1)  To remove the nozzle bumper, you'll need to drill the rivets out by using a 1/8" drill bit.  Be sure to drill from the inside.  Also, be sure to keep the bumper clamps.  You'll need them to install the new bumper.  When you install the new bumper, the easiest thing to do is to use 1/8 " pop rivets with washers.

2)  The belt lifter on a 516 is easily removed by first removing the limit screw.  It unscrews from the inside.  With the screw out, you can then align the lugs on the belt lifter for easy removal.

3)  To remove the headlight cap, you'll need to drive the hinge pin out with a long punch pin.  If you don't have any long punch pins, you can buy them inexpensively at Harbor Freight Tools or you can buy better quality at Sears!  Be very careful when you do that, lest you break the fan case. 


Hope this helps!

Post# 132835 , Reply# 4   4/17/2011 at 22:43 (4,701 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        
One more thing...

eurekastar's profile picture

When you remove the headlight cap, make sure you keep track of the flat and wave washers inside the hinge lugs.  On the 516, they are what causes the friction that helps keep the headlight cap up when it is raised. 

Post# 132840 , Reply# 5   4/17/2011 at 22:53 (4,701 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Thanks all! I shall try all this tomorrow and hope it goes well :)

Post# 132841 , Reply# 6   4/17/2011 at 22:55 (4,701 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Also.... is the same driiling process for the rivets on the beater bar cover area the same???

Post# 132842 , Reply# 7   4/17/2011 at 22:59 (4,701 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

You really don't need to drill those out.  They will bend enough for you to be able to remove the rug plate.  Needle nose pliers are good for that or something thin so you can slide it inside and bend them up enough to slide the rug plate off.  Have fun and let me know how it goes!  You'll learn a lot just by doing it, so I know you can do it!

Post# 132885 , Reply# 8   4/18/2011 at 12:21 (4,700 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Metal restoration question:
What is the best method for restoring the metal that you can do yourself? If anyone could give me a walkthrough of it that would be great!

Post# 132887 , Reply# 9   4/18/2011 at 12:48 (4,700 days old) by Brandon_W_T ()        

Do you have a buffer wheel? That is the best method to restore a new shine.

What you do is

1) Clean the machine off completely (wipe down all dirt and such)
2) Start with a slightly grittier polishing compound and apply it to the wheel. Work it into the machine to remove scratches and heavy tarnish
3 and on) Replace pads and apply softer and softer compounds to bring the machine back to a new shine.

If no bench polisher is available, you can always do the old steel wool and mothers aluminum polish trick! It might not get out deep scratches, but can result come out quite nice.

Here is a little hand buffing work I did. Steel wool and mothers polish, and HOURS of work! :)

Post# 132927 , Reply# 10   4/18/2011 at 16:51 (4,700 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

0000 steel wool works really well.  I've used Mother's but I prefer a product called "Wenol Metal Polish".  It's a German product that's a little thinner in consistency than toothpaste.  But it seems to require less effort than Mother's.  But the advantage of Mother's is that it's more readily available and does a good job too.  Just be sure to follow up with a soft cotton cloth as you go along.  Of course, if you have a bench polisher, that's the best way to go!


Post# 132940 , Reply# 11   4/18/2011 at 17:50 (4,700 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Thanks for the input. Now, I am trying to get the fan off and I would assume there may be a specical tool/trick to this? If there is a special tool, any alternatives?

Post# 132977 , Reply# 12   4/18/2011 at 20:06 (4,700 days old) by kc_kirby (Kansas City, MO)        

To get the fan off, look through the access hole just behind the fan case and look at the shaft the fan is attached to, there will be a hole all the way through the shaft. I just stick an ice pick through that hole in the middle of the shaft and then turn the fan the opposite way it turns when the motor is on. The fan will screw off the shaft and come off. The ice pick keeps the shaft from moving around. It might take some effort to get the fan to turn. Hope that makes sense. Once you figure it out, it seems pretty easy.


Post# 132979 , Reply# 13   4/18/2011 at 20:16 (4,700 days old) by KirbyDS80 (California)        
Git er done!

Git er done! :)

Post# 132980 , Reply# 14   4/18/2011 at 20:19 (4,700 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Thanks Chad! That worked like a charm, however, now I am stuck with the cover unerneath the fan, I removed the 4 small screws andcannot get the plate that covers the bearing off

Post# 132984 , Reply# 15   4/18/2011 at 20:25 (4,700 days old) by Northwesty (Renton, WA)        

My method for polishing these up involves more the use of sandpaper. I start with 220 to get the deeper scratches out, then go through the different sandpapers all the way up to 3000 grit. It is easier if you don't skip any, so what I have been able to find is 220, 320 400, 500 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000, then 3000. It gets easier as you go. To go from 3000 to polishing with a wheel is a snap. Without the bench polisher you can't get the super shine, it is simply a matter of RPM.

This sandpaper isn't free, though, but what is your time worth?

I keep the sandpaper in a big tupperware bucket with a little dishwasher soap. you might be able to do three whole machines with each piece! Autobody shops sell this stuff.

Post# 132988 , Reply# 16   4/18/2011 at 20:57 (4,700 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

Derek, I'm proud of you!  You'll learn a lot by doing it yourself AND it will be very gratifying when you're done.  The bearing plate can sometimes get frozen in place.  I usually take a flat blade screw driver and slip it through that same access slot and tap it off from the back.  Just make sure the screwdriver is butted up against the plate and not something else (like the armature fan!). 

Post# 132990 , Reply# 17   4/18/2011 at 21:05 (4,700 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Thanks Bill!! I have successfully gotten the motor apart! Think I am done for now though, as I will need to pick up a bearing puller I assume to remove and replace the bearings. What type of bearing puller do you recommend?

Post# 132992 , Reply# 18   4/18/2011 at 21:22 (4,700 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

Kirby makes a bearing puller for the rear bearing.  You can order one from club member a007kirbyman.  Look in the member profiles and shoot him an email.  But the quickest way to get in touch with him is by phone.  I'll email his # to you.  He has an authorized Kirby service center and can supply you with any parts you need.  That bearing puller is only around $15.  With the front bearing, the simplest thing to order a new bearing plate with the bearing already in it.  But $15 is cheap for a bearing puller and it will quickly pay for itself if you ever rebuild many machines. 

Post# 133000 , Reply# 19   4/18/2011 at 21:44 (4,700 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Thanks for the info! Do you know if there is a special way to arrainge the wires when placing the field back in the housing? It appears that the wires will be pinched and orin the area where the armature will turn so there must be a trick to this haha

Post# 133029 , Reply# 20   4/18/2011 at 23:16 (4,700 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

I have always tacked the wires between the field screw and bell housing.  Once the field screw is in place, it keeps the wire making contact with the armature.  Those wires are pretty stiff too, so they won't go anywhere once they are tucked away from the armature. 

Post# 133170 , Reply# 21   4/19/2011 at 19:02 (4,699 days old) by vacumaniac ()        

Allright!!!! Complete disassembly and reassembly and it works!!!

Post# 133173 , Reply# 22   4/19/2011 at 19:10 (4,699 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

Excellent!  Congratulations!

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