Thread Number: 36472  /  Tag: 80s/90s Vacuum Cleaners
Electrolux Special Edition 1623
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Post# 390753   4/20/2018 at 00:10 by Paul (MN)        


I scored a Craigslist freebie recently ... a late 1980s Special Edition 1623 (non-automatic) by Electrolux Corporation. I couldn't believe that a refined-looking and -acting woman had such a beat-up and extra-dirty vacuum cleaner! Even though I'm sure it was a spare it's still hard to fathom that she didn't at least wipe it off before putting it in her minivan and giving it to me. Just saying ...

She included the original attachments: the power nozzle, model 7B; the plastic wand sections; dusting brush/upholstery tool; and the short crevice nozzle. It also has a genuine replacement vinyl hose, which is probably 10-15 years old going by the yellowing.

Anyway, I'm attempting to get the motor cleaned and re-lubed along with repairing some body parts. This is my first Lexan-bodied cylinder vac, so I'm in unexplored territory and need some information/tips on these items:

1) The bag door is partially secured in the hinge. Is there a pin that's missing or broken, or is it a busted nub?

2) The diffuser catch (see the last couple photos below) has been broken off. Is there a solution besides replacing the whole top?

I've disinfected the outside with diluted bleach so included some pics of the disassembled top pieces.

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Post# 390810 , Reply# 1   4/20/2018 at 22:57 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture
This is how they door hinge should look. The photos are of an Epic 6000, but the hinge should still be same. In the very center, on the underside, is a removable cover that protects two wires and a plastic tube going into the bag door.

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Post# 390815 , Reply# 2   4/20/2018 at 23:54 by Paul (MN)        

Thanks, Bill.

I removed the front lid and found the removable cover you mentioned (mine lacks the tube, because it's not automatic). After getting the yellow wire back in its channel, the door works as it should. There is still a fair amount of play in the door connection (what I'd incorrectly called a hinge), but it seems that's the way it was designed.

I obviously obtained a DIYer's machine, because of the aforementioned misplaced wire, the uneven edge of the back end where someone used a screwdriver to remove the back lid multiple times or just poked around trying to locate the tabs, misconnected wires that kept the cleaner from turning on, and bumpers not fitted correctly on the body connectors. Anyway, I'm enjoying getting the cleaner back in shape.

I do have another question. How can I increase the tension of the cord winder?

Thanks again.

Post# 390827 , Reply# 3   4/21/2018 at 08:05 by quebecois (Quebec, Canada)        

I don't know exactly how you could gain access to the cord spool itself for that specific model, but once you did, you simply have to pull one foot of cord out of the reel and wind it on the spool and test the tension by pulling at least 6 foot of cord out. If you're not satisfied, do it again until tension is good enough.

Post# 390852 , Reply# 4   4/21/2018 at 14:33 by Paul (MN)        

Thanks, Francois.

I don't want to break anything while attempting to access the cord, so hopefully someone else will let me know how to disassemble the plastic frame.

Post# 390854 , Reply# 5   4/21/2018 at 15:37 by quebecois (Quebec, Canada)        

I found these instructions that may apply to your model as well.

Post# 390856 , Reply# 6   4/21/2018 at 15:45 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

With vacs and chainsaws, I have bought unbelievably dirty units. With chainsaws you can kinda expect it, although a few minutes with an air compressor does wonders.


With dirty vacs...many people treat them like condoms in that when they get dirty/used, they dispose of them. I don't know if they were raised that way or a phobia about dirt etc. And I don't really care if I'm buying local....but for someone to send me a filthy vac off eBay et al, resplendent with the bag full of their dirt.....that seller should be publicly caned.



Post# 390858 , Reply# 7   4/21/2018 at 16:11 by quebecois (Quebec, Canada)        

Also found this video for another model but I think yours have the same retaining strips on each side.

If yours is equipped with a similar cord winder, you will have to open the winder case to improve the rewinding strength.

Post# 390861 , Reply# 8   4/21/2018 at 17:21 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture
You can get the cord winder apart. The pins holding it together are very stiff. You have to simultaneously bend the pin down while also pulling apart the two halves of the housing. I've get one pin started and then wedge a screwdriver in to keep it separated then move to the adjacent pin. I've only been able to get it apart by doing two at the same time.

Post# 390874 , Reply# 9   4/22/2018 at 00:55 by Paul (MN)        

Thanks for the responses, Francois, Kevin, & Bill.

Well, I managed to increase the tension after breaking one of the pins in my attempt to open the cord winder frame. Oh well.

Before putting the two halves of the cord winder frame together, I tested it and it worked great. So I reassembled the frame, resecured it in the body channels, and tested it again. However, it was lackluster. So, I disassembled the frame again and it worked like a charm. I couldn't figure out the reason until I refocused my blank stare and noticed a couple indents in the plastic that didn't seem to be factory-made (see photos). It seems as though they are recessed enough to hinder the movement of the reel.

Consequently, I'm either going to break out the damaged areas or replace the cord winder.

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Post# 390885 , Reply# 10   4/22/2018 at 09:46 by quebecois (Quebec, Canada)        

I'd personally break out the damaged section, or I'd get in a little challenge heating it up so it starts to melt enough to correct its shape...

Post# 390889 , Reply# 11   4/22/2018 at 14:33 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        
Buy a new one!

eurekastar's profile picture
I too would break out the damaged segments that are binding up the cord or just buy a new one! LOL!


Post# 390901 , Reply# 12   4/22/2018 at 20:38 by Paul (MN)        

Surprisingly, the plastic was pliable enough for me to bend it back with a paint can opener, which freed the cord winder to operate as it should.

I can't imagine how those dents were made.

Next step, is cleaning the motor and repacking the bearings. Any tips?

Post# 390909 , Reply# 13   4/22/2018 at 22:39 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        
Motor servicing

eurekastar's profile picture
Start by removing the fan stages first. Once the fans are separated, then remove the motor brushes. On each brush there is a tab on the end. Bend it down with a screw driver the pull the brush out with pliers by pulling on the tab. Next remove the screws that hold the motor bridge onto the field. Everything will completely separate at that point. You'll need to use a bearing puller to remove the bearing on the commutator end. For the fan bearing, you'll need to drill out the rivets. Alternate back and forth between each rivet, rinsing it under cold water. That way you won't overheat and melt the plastic. A new bearing will pop right in. You can secure the bearing retainer with new pop rivets. The commutator bearing will need to be tapped on. I always use a fan pulley from a Kirby vacuum, because you'll need to tap in on the inside race only. I hope this helps. There is a simple trick to reinstall the brushes without using a special tool. When you get to that part, I can walking you through that!

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Post# 390917 , Reply# 14   4/23/2018 at 08:32 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

 Always press a bearing on if at all possible. Even tapping on the inner race can cause minute damage.



Post# 390930 , Reply# 15   4/23/2018 at 22:07 by Paul (MN)        

Thanks for the advice, Bill & Kevin. I need to get a bearing puller and pop rivets. What size are the rivets?

Post# 390935 , Reply# 16   4/23/2018 at 22:46 by Paul (MN)        

Will a Kirby bearing puller work?

Post# 390953 , Reply# 17   4/24/2018 at 08:05 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        
Bearing Puller

eurekastar's profile picture
Yes, a Kirby bearing puller will work perfectly! You will need to tap the new bearing back on. The tolerances are too tight to push on.

This is the rivet that I use. Be sure to buy some back up washers as well.

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Post# 390955 , Reply# 18   4/24/2018 at 09:03 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

The tolerances are too tight to push on.


Then you heat up the bearing or put the shaft in the freezer....come on guy.



Post# 390989 , Reply# 19   4/24/2018 at 20:44 by Paul (MN)        

Thanks again, Bill & Kevin.

I ordered the Kirby bearing puller today so will have to wait till it arrives. I appreciate the rivet & washer photos, which will help me with my purchase.

Another question ... what do you use to clean the bearings before repacking them?

I'll keep you posted when I get the stuff and get going on the project.

Post# 390991 , Reply# 20   4/24/2018 at 20:52 by Paul (MN)        

Btw, an Aerus rep looked up the serial number on the company's database and told me that the original sale was in December 1991.

Post# 390994 , Reply# 21   4/24/2018 at 21:10 by quebecois (Quebec, Canada)        

The SuperJ I cleaned and fixed had two small bolts and nuts instead of rivets to hold the bearing bracket, was it normal ?

Post# 390998 , Reply# 22   4/24/2018 at 22:04 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture
That motor uses sealed bearings, so you'll just need to replace them. If they are open bearings, I always clean them in gasoline before repacking them with grease. In the link below, you'll find the bearing you need. It looks like they are currently out-of-stock. You get it on Ebay, but it is much more expensive.

@ François, the bearing retainers were originally riveted; however, someone replaced the bearings and used nuts and screws rather than rivets to reattach the retainers.


Post# 391000 , Reply# 23   4/24/2018 at 22:21 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

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Post# 391007 , Reply# 24   4/25/2018 at 01:13 by Paul (MN)        

Oh, I didn't realize that. Thanks for the info. and links, Bill.

Post# 391036 , Reply# 25   4/25/2018 at 17:29 by quebecois (Quebec, Canada)        

Thanks for the info, Bill !

Post# 391043 , Reply# 26   4/25/2018 at 20:16 by Paul (MN)        

Help needed ... I was able to remove the first fan stage but am stuck on the second.

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Post# 391050 , Reply# 27   4/25/2018 at 21:04 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        
Penetrating Oil

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Spray some penetrating oil like WD40 around the spacer and fan spindle. I'd also spray some down at the bottom around the washer. Then, just wait. Give it a try in the morning. If it doesn't give, spray from oil onto it. It may take two or three days. Patience is the key. Be sure to set it upright so that the oil can seep down.

Post# 391051 , Reply# 28   4/25/2018 at 21:06 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture
You might go ahead and remove the motor bridge so you can remove the motor field. Then you can grab the armature with your hand for back up, while working the spacer with pliers.

Post# 391053 , Reply# 29   4/25/2018 at 21:23 by quebecois (Quebec, Canada)        

For a very good penetrating fluid, you could try mixing automatic transmission fluid and acetone 50%-50%. Its smells strong but it is by far better than WD-40 for loosening metal parts. I've used it with very good success in many occasions. YOu should store the mix in a glass container with a tight cap, acetone will melt plastics.

Post# 391055 , Reply# 30   4/25/2018 at 21:49 by Paul (MN)        

Thanks, Bill & Francois. I really appreciate it.

The fan casing was pretty rusted, so I'm thinking the cleaner may have been stored in a basement. Anyway, I kinda chewed it up trying to open it after spraying it with WD-40 yesterday; maybe I should have waited on that one, too.

Post# 391061 , Reply# 31   4/25/2018 at 22:40 by Paul (MN)        

I'm also not having success removing the brushes by pulling on the tabs with the pliers. Please advise.

Post# 391072 , Reply# 32   4/26/2018 at 08:20 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        


WD-40 is not penetrating oil and anyone who uses it as such is suspect in my book. It is purely a cheap water displacement formula originally intended to spray inside engine distributors that were wet with moisture. It's not a lubricant either of any worth.


Kroil is a first rate rust penetrant, then Liquid Wrench followed by PB Plaster which is available most anywhere. You could also mix your own like  François indicated.





Post# 391106 , Reply# 33   4/26/2018 at 20:13 by Paul (MN)        

Thanks, Kevin.

Since I had the WD-40 on hand I used that so will wait to see if it works like it did on the fan casing. If not, I'll try one of yours or Francois's recommendations.

Post# 391229 , Reply# 34   4/28/2018 at 19:11 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

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Were you able to get the fan removed?

Post# 391416 , Reply# 35   5/1/2018 at 21:52 by Paul (MN)        

No, I wasn't able to get the fan off. I haven't had the time to work on it lately but hopefully will be able to this weekend.

Thanks for asking. I'll keep you posted.

Post# 391509 , Reply# 36   5/3/2018 at 22:33 by Paul (MN)        

I'm in a quandary. I was unable to remove the motor bridge after removing the two bolts nor could I get the motor brushes out, so I took the motor to an Aerus dealer to get some in-person advice.

As he looked it over he reasoned that it overheated while running for an extended time due to the black film on the commutator, the overheating residue in the second fan stage, and the inability of the motor bridge to pop right off (he surmised that it had melted onto the magnets). He also mentioned that the motor brushes were not meant to be removed, because of thermal protectors; which is why I couldn't get them out.

He mentioned that he could replace the motor for me for something like $449.00, or sell me a motor for around $385.00 that I could install myself. Ouch. No thanks.

Do you think I should still try to remove the motor bridge and resume my project? I'm toying with the idea of squirting some Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil on it but don't want to mess with it if it truly is a lost cause.

Here's the alphanumeric code and ratings on the fan casing, if that tells you anything: B-9 ECP 6500-253 10:39 68Hz BJ 20 120VAC SERV

What to do?

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Post# 391571 , Reply# 37   5/5/2018 at 11:03 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

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You might just scrap the motor and buy an aftermarket motor for about $80. They aren't genuine Electrolux but they are the Electrolux specifications. I'm not sure who makes them.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO eurekastar's LINK on eBay

Post# 391588 , Reply# 38   5/5/2018 at 19:54 by blknblu (CT)        

The ebay link is for an Electro Motor 6500-293.
You can google it to find a cheaper price.

Specs can be found here:

About the company:

"Our History:

Electro Motor purchased the motor business from Aerus, LLC (formerly known as Electrolux, LLC), and took operations on July 1, 2002. This former Electrolux motor business has built high quality floor care motors for over 60 years. This tradition of motor design and excellence with an emphasis on durability, quality, and exceptional customer support continues with the new Electro Motor ownership."

Post# 391607 , Reply# 39   5/6/2018 at 22:14 by Paul (MN)        

Thanks for the suggestions and links, Bill & Sven. I really appreciate it.

The lowest price of the motor I was able to find online was around $70.00 with s/h. I'm first going to see if I can get a used one from a local vacuum store that I can rebuild.

The Aerus dealer has a bunch of old Electroluxes in two back rooms and a basement, but he wants $100 a pop; so I'm not going to go that route.

Post# 391645 , Reply# 40   5/7/2018 at 17:15 by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture
It's too bad he's wanting to see junked machines. I've had vacuum shop owners give me that stuff just to get rid of it, including NOS vintage parts that they knew would never be used.

Post# 391648 , Reply# 41   5/7/2018 at 19:49 by Paul (MN)        

Yeah, he's a mercenary.

Also, he has no regard for collectors, enthusiasts, or anyone on a limited budget that he could help by rebuilding them and selling them—or their parts—at modest prices. I'm not sure, though, if he's kept any of the hoses; so that would be the cost prohibitor.

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