Thread Number: 36472
/ Tag: 80s/90s Vacuum Cleaners
Electrolux Special Edition 1623 |
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Post# 390810 , Reply# 1   4/20/2018 at 22:57 (2,197 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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This is how they door hinge should look. The photos are of an Epic 6000, but the hinge should still be same. In the very center, on the underside, is a removable cover that protects two wires and a plastic tube going into the bag door.
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Post# 390852 , Reply# 4   4/21/2018 at 14:33 (2,196 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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Thanks, Francois. I don't want to break anything while attempting to access the cord, so hopefully someone else will let me know how to disassemble the plastic frame. |
Post# 390858 , Reply# 7   4/21/2018 at 16:11 (2,196 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)   |   | |
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Also found this video for another model but I think yours have the same retaining strips on each side. If yours is equipped with a similar cord winder, you will have to open the winder case to improve the rewinding strength. |
Post# 390861 , Reply# 8   4/21/2018 at 17:21 (2,196 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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You can get the cord winder apart. The pins holding it together are very stiff. You have to simultaneously bend the pin down while also pulling apart the two halves of the housing. I've get one pin started and then wedge a screwdriver in to keep it separated then move to the adjacent pin. I've only been able to get it apart by doing two at the same time.
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Post# 390885 , Reply# 10   4/22/2018 at 09:46 (2,195 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)   |   | |
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I'd personally break out the damaged section, or I'd get in a little challenge heating it up so it starts to melt enough to correct its shape... |
Post# 390889 , Reply# 11   4/22/2018 at 14:33 (2,195 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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I too would break out the damaged segments that are binding up the cord or just buy a new one! LOL!
CLICK HERE TO GO TO eurekastar's LINK |
Post# 390909 , Reply# 13   4/22/2018 at 22:39 (2,195 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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Start by removing the fan stages first. Once the fans are separated, then remove the motor brushes. On each brush there is a tab on the end. Bend it down with a screw driver the pull the brush out with pliers by pulling on the tab. Next remove the screws that hold the motor bridge onto the field. Everything will completely separate at that point. You'll need to use a bearing puller to remove the bearing on the commutator end. For the fan bearing, you'll need to drill out the rivets. Alternate back and forth between each rivet, rinsing it under cold water. That way you won't overheat and melt the plastic. A new bearing will pop right in. You can secure the bearing retainer with new pop rivets. The commutator bearing will need to be tapped on. I always use a fan pulley from a Kirby vacuum, because you'll need to tap in on the inside race only. I hope this helps. There is a simple trick to reinstall the brushes without using a special tool. When you get to that part, I can walking you through that!
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Post# 390917 , Reply# 14   4/23/2018 at 08:32 (2,195 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)   |   | |
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Always press a bearing on if at all possible. Even tapping on the inner race can cause minute damage.
Kevin |
Post# 390930 , Reply# 15   4/23/2018 at 22:07 (2,194 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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Thanks for the advice, Bill & Kevin. I need to get a bearing puller and pop rivets. What size are the rivets? |
Post# 390935 , Reply# 16   4/23/2018 at 22:46 (2,194 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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Will a Kirby bearing puller work? |
Post# 390953 , Reply# 17   4/24/2018 at 08:05 (2,194 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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Yes, a Kirby bearing puller will work perfectly! You will need to tap the new bearing back on. The tolerances are too tight to push on.
This is the rivet that I use. Be sure to buy some back up washers as well. |
Post# 390955 , Reply# 18   4/24/2018 at 09:03 (2,193 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)   |   | |
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The tolerances are too tight to push on.
Then you heat up the bearing or put the shaft in the freezer....come on guy.
Kevin |
Post# 390991 , Reply# 20   4/24/2018 at 20:52 (2,193 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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Btw, an Aerus rep looked up the serial number on the company's database and told me that the original sale was in December 1991. |
Post# 390994 , Reply# 21   4/24/2018 at 21:10 (2,193 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)   |   | |
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The SuperJ I cleaned and fixed had two small bolts and nuts instead of rivets to hold the bearing bracket, was it normal ? |
Post# 390998 , Reply# 22   4/24/2018 at 22:04 (2,193 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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That motor uses sealed bearings, so you'll just need to replace them. If they are open bearings, I always clean them in gasoline before repacking them with grease. In the link below, you'll find the bearing you need. It looks like they are currently out-of-stock. You get it on Ebay, but it is much more expensive.
@ François, the bearing retainers were originally riveted; however, someone replaced the bearings and used nuts and screws rather than rivets to reattach the retainers. CLICK HERE TO GO TO eurekastar's LINK |
Post# 391000 , Reply# 23   4/24/2018 at 22:21 (2,193 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 391007 , Reply# 24   4/25/2018 at 01:13 (2,193 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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Oh, I didn't realize that. Thanks for the info. and links, Bill. |
Post# 391036 , Reply# 25   4/25/2018 at 17:29 (2,192 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)   |   | |
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Thanks for the info, Bill ! |
Post# 391043 , Reply# 26   4/25/2018 at 20:16 (2,192 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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Help needed ... I was able to remove the first fan stage but am stuck on the second.
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Post# 391050 , Reply# 27   4/25/2018 at 21:04 (2,192 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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Spray some penetrating oil like WD40 around the spacer and fan spindle. I'd also spray some down at the bottom around the washer. Then, just wait. Give it a try in the morning. If it doesn't give, spray from oil onto it. It may take two or three days. Patience is the key. Be sure to set it upright so that the oil can seep down.
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Post# 391051 , Reply# 28   4/25/2018 at 21:06 (2,192 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 391061 , Reply# 31   4/25/2018 at 22:40 (2,192 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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I'm also not having success removing the brushes by pulling on the tabs with the pliers. Please advise. |
Post# 391106 , Reply# 33   4/26/2018 at 20:13 (2,191 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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Thanks, Kevin. Since I had the WD-40 on hand I used that so will wait to see if it works like it did on the fan casing. If not, I'll try one of yours or Francois's recommendations. |
Post# 391229 , Reply# 34   4/28/2018 at 19:11 (2,189 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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Post# 391416 , Reply# 35   5/1/2018 at 21:52 (2,186 days old) by Paul (USA)   |   | |
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No, I wasn't able to get the fan off. I haven't had the time to work on it lately but hopefully will be able to this weekend. Thanks for asking. I'll keep you posted. |
Post# 391571 , Reply# 37   5/5/2018 at 11:03 (2,182 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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You might just scrap the motor and buy an aftermarket motor for about $80. They aren't genuine Electrolux but they are the Electrolux specifications. I'm not sure who makes them.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO eurekastar's LINK on eBay |
Post# 391645 , Reply# 40   5/7/2018 at 17:15 (2,180 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)   |   | |
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