Another Hoover hose question

The Hoover hose is one of the easiest to successfully get apart with w minimum of fuss, Al.
The vinyl boot is usually still somewhat soft and can be softened further in a hot water bath. Get it slid back over the hose - it is not glued in place, just a friction fit, tho a tight one.

Underneath the boot, the hose is rubber-cemented to the plastic or metal intake pipe fitting, which will have shallow outside matching raised threads or more often just a pair or four of raised bumps to guide the hose spiral as it is screwed on. The cement is usually dried out.
But then after being factory cemented and screwed on to the fitting it has a twisted wire or metal band (depending on the age) holding it fast to the fitting. Once exposed (after forcing the warmed vinyl sleeve back over the hose - try lubricating with vaseline or oil which will not damage the vinyl and twist it while pulling back) remove this band and the hose/cement bond should loosen with twisting.
Another trick I use to break the cement bond is to force in a thin flat blade or screwdriver and work it around the perimeter - the vinyl hose material has enough give to allow this. If you use a round shafted screwdriver (less than 1/8" diameter) roll it sideways once inserted. The shaft will get a friction grip on the old rubber cement and with rffort you can roll the screwdriver around the entire hose.
Of course you know how a spiral coil likes to tighten up when unscrewing a hose with the more easily held long portion - my trick is to unscrew by gripping the starting end so the coil opens up as you screw it 'backwards. Eventually the hose will free itself. I use rubber gloves to give myself the winning grip and it avoids giving yourself blisters.

Sorry for the 'stream of consciousness' explanation; hope something in there helps.

Other manufacturer's used a more shellac-like cement that can be a real bastard to loosen and then there's the Electrolux hose that has an inner metal collar sandwiching the hose between it and the outer barrel..and worse yet older cloth/rubber hoses were riveted to the collars.
Westinghouse, Filter Queen, Compact, Kirby, Rainbow and General Electric hoses are a snap to take apart by comparison, in my experience.

Dave


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Post# 92562 3/1/2010 at 17:37 (5,163 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield & London)
Checkrate/Likes I have just recently bought an assortment of bits including an 862 connie, which has had the hose replaced with an earlier blue version, probably from a 638 as the hose has no suction control. As it is in good condition I would like to use it on my Connie 822 which has no hose at all! It has the blue connector opipe though The question is, how do I get it off the 862 connector? Pic below. In the same box I also got an hose from a Convertable/Senior 652 which I would also like to use as a donor. But its teh same question - this time it is still on its origional "pip & clip" straight connector. And before anyone says anything, I already have full tool sets for my 638 and 652 cleaners Thanks Al

Post# 92571 , Reply# 1 3/1/2010 at 18:36 (5,163 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)
Checkrate/Likes *Great idea transplanting the blue hose, Al.* The Hoover hose is one of the easiest to successfully get apart with w minimum of fuss, Al. The vinyl boot is usually still somewhat soft and can be softened further in a hot water bath. Get it slid back over the hose - it is not glued in place, just a friction fit, tho a tight one. Underneath the boot, the hose is rubber-cemented to the plastic or metal intake pipe fitting, which will have shallow outside matching raised threads or more often just a pair or four of raised bumps to guide the hose spiral as it is screwed on. The cement is usually dried out. But then after being factory cemented and screwed on to the fitting it has a twisted wire or metal band (depending on the age) holding it fast to the fitting. Once exposed (after forcing the warmed vinyl sleeve back over the hose - try lubricating with vaseline or oil which will not damage the vinyl and twist it while pulling back) remove this band and the hose/cement bond should loosen with twisting. Another trick I use to break the cement bond is to force in a thin flat blade or screwdriver and work it around the perimeter - the vinyl hose material has enough give to allow this. If you use a round shafted screwdriver (less than 1/8" diameter) roll it sideways once inserted. The shaft will get a friction grip on the old rubber cement and with rffort you can roll the screwdriver around the entire hose. Of course you know how a spiral coil likes to tighten up when unscrewing a hose with the more easily held long portion - my trick is to unscrew by gripping the starting end so the coil opens up as you screw it 'backwards. Eventually the hose will free itself. I use rubber gloves to give myself the winning grip and it avoids giving yourself blisters. Sorry for the 'stream of consciousness' explanation; hope something in there helps. Other manufacturer's used a more shellac-like cement that can be a real bastard to loosen and then there's the Electrolux hose that has an inner metal collar sandwiching the hose between it and the outer barrel..and worse yet older cloth/rubber hoses were riveted to the collars. Westinghouse, Filter Queen, Compact, Kirby, Rainbow and General Electric hoses are a snap to take apart by comparison, in my experience. Dave

Post# 92660 , Reply# 2 3/2/2010 at 17:44 (5,162 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield & London)
Checkrate/Likes *Sorry for the 'stream of consciousness' explanation* Dave Stream of consciousness or not, it worked like a charm. Interestingly neither hose was secured by a wire tie or metal band but some sort of tape bound very tight and possibly glued. Whaever, it came off with no problem at all. Dave, thank you very much for your assistance. Al

Post# 92664 , Reply# 3 3/2/2010 at 18:27 (5,162 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)
Checkrate/Likes Hooray! Glad is was helpful. As for the tape band you found, it must have to do with the country of manufacture? I find the twisted wire on American Hoovers and the metal cinch band on Canadian Burlington/Hamilton made machines. The plastic coated wire tie in my picture I think is a Repair Shop substitute. It was loose enough that I could pull the hose back off the threads to show the glue remains. Normally the original is a thicker unclad wire. Dave