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Thread Number: 7249
Info on Silver King Canister? |
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| Post# 80161 , Reply# 1 9/5/2009 at 20:19 (5,343 days old) by meba2233 (Webster Groves, MO) | ||
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Label The front label. 
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| Post# 80162 , Reply# 2 9/5/2009 at 20:21 (5,343 days old) by meba2233 (Webster Groves, MO) | ||
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Tool Caddy Cardboard tool caddy. The larger tools have a wooden base. There is one called a squeegee. 
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| Post# 80163 , Reply# 3 9/5/2009 at 20:22 (5,343 days old) by meba2233 (Webster Groves, MO) | ||
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Wands and Hose Nice flex hose and two stainless curved wands that are stuck together. How do you get them apart? 
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| Post# 80164 , Reply# 4 9/5/2009 at 20:24 (5,343 days old) by meba2233 (Webster Groves, MO) | ||
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Paperwork/Filters/Manual The main filter looks like a circular piece of paper and the secondary filters are like a ring of fabric. A wire tool caddy that sits on top of the machine. Nice clean manual. 
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| Post# 80165 , Reply# 5 9/5/2009 at 21:32 (5,343 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada) | ||
The Art and Science of getting them apart...
Whenever I come across this condition I follow a sequence of attempts, all figured on not disfiguring the wands. 1. inject/pour some rust breaking solution - various brand names - into the joint (aluminum or chromed steel) and let it sit & soak half a day. 2. in a large padded vise gently squeeze the joint all around to hopefully break the bond without marring the surfaces or deforming the tube circumference. Then insert a snug fitting something-round like a wood pole or mketal pipe end in one wand end, squeeze that firmly in the vice Istand on ther vise if it is not bench mounted) and twist and pull for all you're worth. Nine times out of ten this usually results in the wands separating. 3 if this is still not working, soak again then try using a hardwood block sharply hammered against the wand lip, with the other wand half squeezed in the jaws for support. working between these two methods eventually there will be some encouraging movement. Just keep at it. I never use say a screwdriver or anything else metal to tap the edges or a hammer to bang the joint as this may work...but it leaves marks and gouges. Good luck, Mark. It is a lovely vacuum with all those partz... Dave | ||
| Post# 80175 , Reply# 6 9/5/2009 at 22:31 (5,343 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada) | ||
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Method 3A, before 4. On a padded something solid to support the joint, roll and gently 'bend' the two wands all around. This can also break the bond, which may be rust or just smutz 'glue' over the years. Again, you will see some movement at the joint telling you it is slowly coming apart. This works best if you and a buddy have either end and use as the bending fulcrum, say, a door jam edge or basement support post. All the above especially easier if one or both wands are 'J' shaped but even with straight wands, the strength of a buddy on one end twisting is a bonus. Afterwards, I like to clean up the inner joint surface with a narrow rotary wire brush in a drill and steel wool on the outside mating surfaces on the other wand. Dave. | ||
| Post# 80181 , Reply# 8 9/5/2009 at 23:12 (5,343 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada) | ||
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Yes indeedy, Tania. Oven mitts are a must. I also use simmering hot water on the stove to soften warped plastic tools, especially crevicetools, enough to reshape them by hand manipulation gently and quickly back to original. They retain the new shape as they cool in your hands. Also perf=ect for reshaping oval-ized sockets by shoving a wand end in place and let it cool. worst case of a bonded wand I encountered finally gave way when I loosely gripped it in a padded bench vise and pulled & yanked vigorously horizontally against the joint lip until is suddenly gave way. :-) Where there's a will there's a way...without resorting to brutal damage. Dave | ||
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