Thread Number: 5120
Eureka Model 260 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 57201   12/29/2008 at 19:03 (5,590 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        

pr-21's profile picture
Hi,

I just won a Eureka Model 260 off of Ebay. I don't have it yet, but from the pictures, it has seen very little use. Does anyone know if it takes the regular round Eureka Belt or a different one? Also what size motor does this have? and are new motors still available? (Even in a higher amp) This model is a 2 speed automatic. Green and white with gold trim around the light. Also the brush roll has the square ends, will a vibra groomer II with square ends work? I have a new two speed switch and found the proper cord holder to go on it. I think this could be a daily driver. The bag is in excellent shape according to the pictures. It has the latch base and may need a new gasket on the bottom or I could buy the latch base and tube by itself and have it put on the original bag.

Any and all information or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You,

Bud Mattingly

Post# 57208 , Reply# 1   12/29/2008 at 20:31 (5,589 days old) by rugmaster37 ()        
Any and all information or help would be greatly appreciated

 Hey Bud,

Your machine will take a round regular Eureka /Sanitaire belt. Same as all Eureka Rugulators or F&G uprights from that period. As far as I know, all single speed motors are still available, but are dwindling down as time goes on. The motor that came in the machine is far superior to the ones made today. So if you get it and it's okay...I would leave it be. That is what "I" would do however.

No two speed motors are available from Eureka anymore. So no there is nothing "really" that would allow you to put in a "newer" or "higher" speed motor, and keep it stock, unless modifying it is what you want to do. you could put in a single speed 6.5 Amp Sanitaire motor in it, but the machne wasn't really made for a motor of that power. and the screw holes may be different.

A Vibra-Groomer II with square ends will work, but not with the factory stock motor. The motor doesn't have the r.p.m. and torque to spin that type of agitator without causing stress, and overheating to what's there already. The VGII was brought out after the end of the 3.5 amp series, and wasn't used to my knowledge with anything less than the 5.5 amp motor. The 6.0 and 6.5 amp motors of course were better known to spin that type of roller. You may be better served replacing it with a CWP wood roller with just brushes on it.

I believe that there is a square end one available for it, that will not put so much strain on the original motor, yet still will allow to use it to clean normally as your looking to do......

This is just my few cents.

BTW, unless i'm wrong; your machine may be the 1959 Eureka, which was the 50th anniversary series. Hence the gold headlight trim ring that your machine has.


Post# 57229 , Reply# 2   12/29/2008 at 22:59 (5,589 days old) by eurekaboy (Raleigh,NC)        

eurekaboy's profile picture
Hey Chad,

Actually, the VGII was used on several 4.0 amp motors. The 1458A (my dream machine) and the 1458F had VGII's and they were 4.0 amp machines. Other than the HP and ESP models, I am not sure if any of the other 1400 series had the VGII in them.

Stephen

Post# 57230 , Reply# 3   12/30/2008 at 00:09 (5,589 days old) by swingette ()        

This machine likely has a similar motor to my model 260. The motor is nearly identical to the 2000 series commercial motors. My 260 is 3.5 amps. Eurekas 3.5 amp 2000 series motors run very cool compared to the 1400 motors, and maintain a much more constant rpm, even under a load. Better than the classic Hoover Convertible in this regard. The square-end VGII AND the double-brush VGI have all worked very well for me in my model 260 and my latter 70s commercial model.

Chad is right about the motor mounting. Its just a little different. There is no reason to change the motor. I think the bearings can be replaced if needed.

I would worry more about the condition of the vinyl/canvas throat below the dirt tube, rather than the gasket.

Let us know how it turns out.

Post# 57397 , Reply# 4   1/1/2009 at 17:59 (5,587 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        
Sanitizing a vintage vacuum

 pr-21's profile picture
First of all thanks to all who replied. I have one more question. How do you go about sanitizing a vintage vacuum? I want to keep it as original as possible, but I don't want someone else's dirt....in my home. Brush roll, bag, wheels...

Post# 57398 , Reply# 5   1/1/2009 at 18:05 (5,587 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        
Bottom of machine

 pr-21's profile picture
Didn't know how to add two pictures. Sorry

Post# 57402 , Reply# 6   1/1/2009 at 21:56 (5,586 days old) by normvac (COLUMBUS, OHIO)        

Bud
I think you'll find that the orginal "Distribulator" brush roll in the machine (if not completely wore out ) will do a great job of beating, shaking and brushing of your carpet as
any new VG II. It make that machine everything it could be
to compete with Hoover in the day !
Great machine, keep it orginal and enjoy ! I have a 260 (blue
and white) like it for daily use !
Norm in Columbus

Post# 57454 , Reply# 7   1/3/2009 at 02:48 (5,585 days old) by swingette ()        

Resist the temptation to wash that bag! I think its made of rayon and will be FRAGILE after all these years. You may find it falling apart in your hands when wet!

You must lubricate the bronze bearings in that agitator before you think of running the machine. There is no shortcut around this. NO WD40!

You may wash the base with wheels after you have removed the motor. Notice that wiring runs up the handle socket. Have a small paintbrush or small bottle brush handy to help clean all the nooks and crannies. Use gentle detergent (like dish liquid) and dont soak anything painted! The paint on the metal hood is esp fragile/thin and you will want to do as little as possible to avoid any wear or damage. A wipe with a damp cloth may be enough.

Post# 57455 , Reply# 8   1/3/2009 at 03:21 (5,585 days old) by swingette ()        
PS

 The square endcap Eureka agitators are getting harder and harder to find. You may want to get a replacement simply to avoid wearing out the original, esp if you plan on using the machine frequently. While the original Disturbulator is indeed an excellent performer (my model 260 has its original), that original three-row style is rare and you dont want to wear it out or neglect to lube it.

Cleveland Wood makes great aftermarket brushrolls, and the genuine Eureka Vibra-Groomer I with square ends is excellent but pricey. Keep an eye out for junk metal base Eurekas. The machines may be trashed but often the agitator can be salvaged. Ive bought a couple junk metal Eurekas for the Vibra-Groomer alone.

Post# 57456 , Reply# 9   1/3/2009 at 04:07 (5,585 days old) by swingette ()        

...

CLICK HERE TO GO TO swingette's LINK
Post# 57479 , Reply# 10   1/3/2009 at 12:57 (5,585 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        
Brush Roll

 pr-21's profile picture
Hi,

I took your advice and got a cwp brush roll. I don't have the
vacuum yet...hopefully Monday, I paid through paypal Saturday after the auction. I will let you know. Hopefully this will be a daily driver once tuned up.

Post# 57797 , Reply# 11   1/7/2009 at 21:27 (5,580 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        
Recieved Vacuum

 pr-21's profile picture
Hi Everyone,

I received my Eureka Model 260 today. One of the rear wheels cracked off during shipping. I have no choice but to find back wheels that will fit this. Any suggestions on what might work?

Post# 57825 , Reply# 12   1/8/2009 at 03:04 (5,580 days old) by swingette ()        

The wheels on *MY* model 260 look identical to the wheels on my early 70s Eureka #2055. Part #458111. The LEAST the seller can do is furnish these replacement wheels to you FREE OF CHARGE.

When purchasing a vintage upright i ALWAYS advise the seller on the importance of protecting the wheels for shipment. This situation may require the dreaded *negative feedback*.

I hope your Eureka uses these wheels.

Pics?

Post# 57826 , Reply# 13   1/8/2009 at 03:15 (5,580 days old) by swingette ()        
PS

 Just checked Hesco and both the genuine Eureka and aftermarket replacement for the part number i just gave is NLA.

If your machines wheels are the same or compatible with the ones used on my version of model 260, you should know that the same style wheels were used into the 1970s. This was the style used just before Eureka switched to the very common narrow wheels used to this day.

Post# 57843 , Reply# 14   1/8/2009 at 17:47 (5,580 days old) by em-tor64 ()        

Hey PR-

Check out 'Tip Top Parts' at the link below, click on Eureka, open the Eureka PDF file, then scroll down to page 8 and look for.....

"EU7140 Wheel, rear, gray - upright"

I believe these are the wheels that Swingette is talking about. These are on both of my Eureka uprights- models 1416 & 2020.
Found these while searching for other parts last week.

Hope this helps....Good luck
Very Nice Eureka by the way!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO em-tor64's LINK
Post# 57845 , Reply# 15   1/8/2009 at 18:59 (5,580 days old) by swingette ()        
eu7140

 No, that is the skinny-tread wheel. larger diameter, wont work. The wheel im talking about was never used on the 1400 series.

HOWEVER, on that same page of the tip top pdf, just below the skinny wheel, is eu7144. It is described as being a front wheel but looks IDENTICAL to the wheel needed for these old Eurekas. To bad tip top doesnt show the real OEM part number.

Post# 57897 , Reply# 16   1/9/2009 at 19:08 (5,579 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        
thank you guys for all the info

 pr-21's profile picture
Hi,

I took my vacuum into a vacuum dealer I have dealt with for years. He has been retired for years, but his son still runs the shops. Unfortunately, his son cleaned out their basement some years back....can't imaging what treasures were down there....anyway they think they can find wheels that will fit the vacuum. They are going to tune up the motor and put a new cord on it. It has a hoover cord now and it will still be a hoover cord again. I thought I had found one cord sleeve for it, but when I got it, I knew it would not work. The hoover cord looks fine on the vacuum, but it's not original. I do have some cord sleeves ordered from Ultimate Sew and Vac. If one of them is the correct size, I will take it back in and have a genuine Eureka cord put on.

I will keep you updated. Thanks for all your help.

PS. Even though I love the vintage vacuums, I am not mechanical enough to do what you guys can do, so I must rely on a vacuum shop. I still have the vacuum I ran when I was stayed with my grandmother, during the summer. I actually bought another one from a collector that had restored his to its original beauty. It's a Premier Upright Model 21, hence my login name PR-21.

Post# 57936 , Reply# 17   1/10/2009 at 12:05 (5,578 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        
Update

 pr-21's profile picture
I went to a flea market vacuum shop that has some old parts. They had two wheels (brown) but at this point...that is exactly like tip top has. #7144. I had a piece of the cracked wheel and it is the right width. I had measured the height before taking the vacuum in for service. It matches as well, so if they don't come up with the correct wheel size, I can take these with me and have them put on. Thanks again.

Post# 58416 , Reply# 18   1/17/2009 at 16:42 (5,571 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        
How it turned out

 pr-21's profile picture
Hi Everyone,

As I said before, I took the Eureka Model 260 into the vacuum shop I have dealt with for years. Took over a week to get back, but I didn't care as long as it was done right.

Swingette- You were right about the inside throat of the bag. The vacuum shop tried using a glue gun to fill up the two holes. I wanted them to take a new sanitaire latch base with the throat attached and put it on. I bought one and it won't work. The bottom of the bag latch is too long to fit into the slot before you raise it up to latch. I cut the throat out and took my original bag back in. The shop doesn't think this will work either and would not put it on....My last resort was duct tape...do you have any other suggestions???????

Thanks
Bud

Post# 58584 , Reply# 19   1/19/2009 at 03:46 (5,569 days old) by swingette ()        

Bud, sit down and think it thru. If your 260 bag is like mine (likely is) you will see that the cloth bag and throat are sewn together to make one piece. Its held onto the bag ring with a metal band. Remove the metal band, use a seam ripper to undo the stitches holding the sateen to the throat and reconstruct a throat using some heavy canvas or vinyl. Someone who knows a little about sewing could help you out. A tailor or seamstress could likely do it for under ten bucks. Then refasten the re-sewn piece onto the bag ring using a nylon tie or some heavy wire.

Working on these old machines sometimes requires thinking "outside the box".

Post# 60504 , Reply# 20   2/15/2009 at 10:11 (5,542 days old) by pr-21 (Middletown, OH)        
Rug Plate

 pr-21's profile picture

My Model 260 has metal strips going around the brush roll. Part of it is missing. If I take the metal off, will a regular rug plate for the 2000 series work, even though the front of the cleaner doesn't have the two tabs? Or how would you fix the missing metal part?

Thanks for any suggestions

Post# 60621 , Reply# 21   2/16/2009 at 19:30 (5,541 days old) by swingette ()        
missing metal part?

 ooh thats a tough one. you mean the trim around the nozzle opening that the rug glides against, right?

im ninety-nine percent sure a common bottom plate would NOT work.

for what you paid for that machine, this should not have occurred.

any ideas out there??


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