Thread Number: 41821  /  Tag: Pre-1950 Vacuum Cleaners
Sanding out scratches on aluminum.
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Post# 441900   5/17/2021 at 13:36 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        

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I have this Kirby 505 nozzle that looks like it took quite a beating. This is very common with a lot of these old Kirby's. I will start out by just sanding the deep scratches starting with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper. I will post more pictures as I go so....stay tuned.

Side note: I'm posting this for anyone who has never, done or attempted this before. There are a number of ways to accomplish this, and this is just one.


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Post# 441901 , Reply# 1   5/17/2021 at 14:26 by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
With a little patience and persistence, that nozzle will be a lovely thing to behold.

Post# 441903 , Reply# 2   5/17/2021 at 15:37 by huskyvacs (Indiana)        

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Do you use any kind of sanding block? Or soap and water? Or just hold the paper in your hand?

Post# 441905 , Reply# 3   5/17/2021 at 16:05 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        
Husky

vacmadman's profile picture
I wet sand, and do it all by hand.

Post# 441918 , Reply# 4   5/17/2021 at 20:30 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Suggestions

lesinutah's profile picture
The Kirby turbo sander does really well. They sell 100-200 sanding for it on Amazon. Water sanding is effective as well.

Post# 441926 , Reply# 5   5/17/2021 at 22:57 by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Scratches look too deep for 500 grit. They're more like gouges. I'd start with 100 - 200. Sanding disc on a drill or die grinder would make short work of it. But whatever floats your boat.

Post# 441932 , Reply# 6   5/18/2021 at 07:59 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        
Floats my boat

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MadMan,

Your right I may need to start out with 200 grit but I do all my sanding by hand, I'm not in a rush to get it done. Sanding by hand will take more time, but it also give me much more control. It's always worked well for me in the past, and yes "floats my boat" just fine thank you.

Jim


Post# 441963 , Reply# 7   5/19/2021 at 03:14 by vacuumdevil (Vacuum Hell )        

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@Vacmadman To much work get a 72x2" grander.






Post# 441966 , Reply# 8   5/19/2021 at 07:22 by myvacsrock (USA)        
Like James

I also do everything by hand. Removing all scratches/gouges and buffing to a factory new shine. Always comes out lovely. Takes possibly a little longer, but controlling is all in my hands ;)

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Post# 441972 , Reply# 9   5/19/2021 at 09:15 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        
Wow!

vacmadman's profile picture
Your work looks fantastic you do an outstanding job indeed! Thank you for sharing. My work is OK, but not quite up to your level from what I can see.

Post# 441973 , Reply# 10   5/19/2021 at 09:36 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        

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I did need to start out with 220 grit to remove the deep scratches. Pic #1 is after I wet sanded with 220 just on the badly scratched area. Then work my way up pic #2 is 400, pic#3 is 600, pic #4, is 1000, pic #5 is 1500, at that point I start sanding the hole piece. pic #6 is 2000, Pic #7 is 3000,

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Post# 441983 , Reply# 11   5/19/2021 at 13:12 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        
After polishing

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Well it didn't turn out to bad after polishing. Could it be better?...yes, but not bad at all. Maybe some day I'll buy myself one of those big puffing and polishing motors for my shop.

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Post# 441991 , Reply# 12   5/19/2021 at 18:49 by scudo (uk)        

I reckon if you have a bench grinder then get some buffer attachments which are relatively cheap, would take you finish up another level.

Post# 441993 , Reply# 13   5/19/2021 at 19:14 by Brando_husky (Las Vegas Nevada)        

Sadly my hands are weak and get very cramped when I work at the metal. It's been a hard time polishing up my sanitronic 562

Post# 442020 , Reply# 14   5/20/2021 at 10:01 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        
505's

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My next 505 is coming along little by little bit by bit. I have two 505 completed and two waiting in the wings. I also have two more 505 emptors that need work.

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Post# 442038 , Reply# 15   5/20/2021 at 20:38 by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)        
They look great!

Jim, can you tell me if all your sanding is done using wet sanding method and do you ever use steel wool pads or similar? When you've worked your way up to the finer grit papers do you try to avoid rubbing the surface in the same direction too much by using circular instead to minimize scuffing etc? I know polishing will take care of some that but just curious.

I've seen some pretty deep scratches on both the headlight cover and the nozzles. I imagine it takes a lighter touch removing scratches from the thinner metal on headlight hood than the more robust floor nozzles! Billy


Post# 442054 , Reply# 16   5/21/2021 at 09:19 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        
Sanding

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Bill,

I do sand in one direction, and not in a circular motion. I only use steel wool now when I wash and clean the parts before sanding. I sand the light cap the same way. Pictured is the before and after of the light cap on my 508.

Jim


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Post# 442086 , Reply# 17   5/22/2021 at 05:31 by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)        
Jim

Wow that's amazing. After you've finished with the polishing, do you use a final product like Blue Chrome Metal Polish or other to slow down the oxidation that comes with time? Car Wax? Bill

Post# 442087 , Reply# 18   5/22/2021 at 08:41 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        
Flitz

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Bill,

I use Flitz polish this will protect the finish for up to 6 months.

Jim


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Post# 442109 , Reply# 19   5/22/2021 at 16:25 by scudo (uk)        

This is 2 I have renovated (before and after pics), I hand polish for deep scratches and then polish on bench grinder wheel.
Images 1 & 2 are an earlier model and
Images 3, 4 & 5 are a G5 that was in a heck of a state.


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Post# 442128 , Reply# 20   5/23/2021 at 09:12 by Vacmadman (Pueblo Co.)        

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Nice work!

Post# 442751 , Reply# 21   6/8/2021 at 21:02 by Rowdy141 (Biryani)        

One solution to bring up that blue rubber trim is to use
Silvo® Silver Cutlery Polish (less aggressive than Brasso®) or Abro® Headlight Restoration Polish to remove fine scratches and smooth-out imperfections.
Follow that with Kiwi® Blue (Scuff) Shoe Polish, or blue Leather Furniture Renovation Cream, or add a few drops of blue Leather Dye to Caranuba Car Wax. The dyes will seep into scuffs and blend blemishes. The wax hardens to give a smooth, polished, durable surface.





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