Thread Number: 41253  /  Tag: Pre-1950 Vacuum Cleaners
Air-Way question
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Post# 437519   1/20/2021 at 13:55 (1,163 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        

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I had the opportunity to meet with Kelton, and work on his Air-Way together. We were able to free up his dust indicator window that had froze up due to rust, but we had a little problem. His Air-Way, did not have the screw, that you loosen to remove the window, but yet the window itself is the same as the 3 in my collection that came with the screw.

I have seen a number of Air-Way's and rebuilt 5, from 1929 through 1933, I have 3 operation manuals, and all show the screw on the right hand side of the Air-way below the window. Could it be they overlooked this at the factory, or did some Air-Way's come without it, and if so what would prevent it from possibly falling out when not in use?


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This post was last edited 01/20/2021 at 14:11
Post# 437531 , Reply# 1   1/20/2021 at 23:53 (1,163 days old) by rivstg1 (colorado springs)        

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inquiring minds wanna know!!!!!

Post# 437539 , Reply# 2   1/21/2021 at 09:13 (1,162 days old) by dysonman1 (the county)        

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I have the earliest of Air-Way uprights in my collection. The screw to hold the indicator was not on there until the later 20's. The indicator fit in pretty tight on the real old ones, although it turned - it didn't turn nearly as easily as the later ones with the screw. I don't think the indicator fell off, I think the screw was to prevent little fingers from lifting off the indicator and putting their little hands in the fan. Like the Kirby safety switch.

Post# 437543 , Reply# 3   1/21/2021 at 09:56 (1,162 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        
Tom

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Thanks so much for that information nice to know. Unfortunately after getting it removed and cleaning out the rust the window sits in a little lose, and can fall out, but when the Air-Way is running it holds in place nicely. It would make sense that after some time of being used the window would loosen, is there anyway to help correct this? Also Kelton's Air-Way came with the aluminum back wheel assembly, I thought this change came later in production? Thanks again Tom.

Jim


Post# 437549 , Reply# 4   1/21/2021 at 11:06 (1,162 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        
Side note

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Keltons, Air-Way must have gone through some updates. His Air-Way also had the levelers on the nozzle which I believe didn't come along until 1929 pictured is the early Air-Way, that is much different then Kelton's set up.

Jim



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Post# 437550 , Reply# 5   1/21/2021 at 11:29 (1,162 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Nice to see some guys with knowledge of these models. I started tearing mine apart to clean it inside, but I got stuck in the process because I can get access to the motor.

Do you agree I send some pictures and questions privately, or do you prefer I post them here?


Post# 437551 , Reply# 6   1/21/2021 at 11:29 (1,162 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        
It wouldn't be original but...

human's profile picture
...one could always seal the window into place with a bead of RTV silicone, which could easily be removed, should the need arise.

Post# 437555 , Reply# 7   1/21/2021 at 12:30 (1,162 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        
access to the motor.

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Chris,

Go ahead and post your questions and pictures here. Information shared here might help others in the future.

Jim


Post# 437557 , Reply# 8   1/21/2021 at 13:06 (1,162 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Can you please explain how I could gain access to the motor?

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Post# 437560 , Reply# 9   1/21/2021 at 16:26 (1,162 days old) by Oreck_XL (Brooklyn, New York 11211)        
So I have an Air-Way question

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Maybe somebody knows. I have both models with the hinged back wheels (as shown) and the stationary aluminum rear wheel carriage. Which came first? Was there any particular advantage of hinged wheels? Personally I appreciate the uprights so much more than the canisters that came later on....

Post# 437562 , Reply# 10   1/21/2021 at 16:53 (1,162 days old) by dysonman1 (the county)        

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Francios: That is the extremely rare Air-Way "Nifty Fifty" model 50. It was the entry level model at the same time (1935) that the Super Chief twin motor and the DirtMasteR upright were out. There should be sunken nuts on those posts that need to come off. Then the bearing plate comes off like it does on an old Kirby.

Hershel: The Air-Way with the black painted rear wheels was first. Primitive swivel on the nozzle connection. Black painted nozzle tube.

Then, they went to the chrome plated nozzle tube about 1923. By 1924 they were selling the machine door to door (the first three years were in retail stores) and the swivel and rear wheels bracket were all changed. The height adjustment levers didn't come out until 1929 with the model F.





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Post# 437564 , Reply# 11   1/21/2021 at 17:10 (1,162 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Is this the reason why there are four holes on top of the motor case? SHould the sunken nuts come off through these top holes ?

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Post# 437565 , Reply# 12   1/21/2021 at 18:51 (1,162 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        

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François,

No the sunken nuts are at the top of the motor that holds the front plate or "bearing" plate in place. As in your first post picture #3 There should be little nuts at the top of the threaded roods that come through the bearing plate. I hope these pictures help.

Jim


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Post# 437566 , Reply# 13   1/21/2021 at 19:18 (1,162 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        
Better pictures

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Here is a better set of pictures. The picture you shared is the bottom of the motor case.

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Post# 437576 , Reply# 14   1/22/2021 at 00:44 (1,162 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

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It looks like he took the nuts off already. Likely the plate is just stuck. See if you can push it out, by poking a screwdriver in one of the air holes on the side of the motor. Be careful not to bend the cooling fan, or poke the field coils or any wiring. Also, try to push it off evenly from both sides. Cocking it forcefully to one side might damage the bearing.

Post# 437581 , Reply# 15   1/22/2021 at 06:37 (1,161 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Thanks everyone ! Yes, nuts are already off. I'll try cleaning a bit with compressed air through every hole before I do anything else, in order to see what I shouldn't poke at.

Post# 437585 , Reply# 16   1/22/2021 at 09:04 (1,161 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        
viibration

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Simply tap the rim at the top of the motor with a wooden mallet or lightly tap with a hammer. This should help loosen the top plate with a little vibration to do the job. You can also use a small screwdriver to tap on the armature shaft where it inserts at the bottom of the motor center hole.

Post# 437600 , Reply# 17   1/22/2021 at 14:37 (1,161 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

I finally pried it out with a flat scewdriver through the base holes.

It's really greasy in there. I consider cleaning it with a tooth brush and varsol first , then contact cleaner, or simply acetone right away. Other suggestions?

I remember the motor did lots of arcing the only time I had it to run, all that grease shouldn't help, I guess.


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Post# 437611 , Reply# 18   1/22/2021 at 17:42 (1,161 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

I reached that point, I'm reluctant to pull at something I could break...what should I do to go safely deeper ? I'd like to clean the fields.

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Post# 437617 , Reply# 19   1/22/2021 at 19:45 (1,161 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        
Field cleaning

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Use WD40 and compressed air to clean out the field this will cut through the grease and dirt. I have used OOO steel wool to clean any rust on the field, but you must be very careful to make sure that there is no steel wool left behind. WD40 again will help clean any left behind. I use WD40 through out my cleaning process, and yes a toothbrush helps as well.

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Post# 437618 , Reply# 20   1/22/2021 at 19:58 (1,161 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Fantastic ! It's great to see before and after pictures, thanks a lot !

Post# 437628 , Reply# 21   1/23/2021 at 01:44 (1,161 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

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Do not use acetone on any windings, the field or armature.

The field will come out, but it is probably stuck very good in there.


Post# 437636 , Reply# 22   1/23/2021 at 07:28 (1,160 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

I'll probably go to my mechanic since my air compressor is in my shed and we have two feet of snow out here. I'll definitely use WD-40.

Post# 437643 , Reply# 23   1/23/2021 at 09:03 (1,160 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        

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I just use canned compressed air. I don't have a compressor.

Post# 437649 , Reply# 24   1/23/2021 at 10:28 (1,160 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

I wouldn't have thought canned air is strong enough to do a good job, thanks for the suggestion. Is this the same used to dust off keyboards and computer fan ?

Post# 437651 , Reply# 25   1/23/2021 at 10:55 (1,160 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        

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A compressor would work better but the canned air works for me so far. I buy it at Harbor Freight.

Post# 437665 , Reply# 26   1/23/2021 at 16:31 (1,160 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)        

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The cans of air work, but the can is spent in 2-3 minutes. And they cost $10 a can.
I only use them for when I'm working on something when people are sleeping and need a quick shot. I bought a small 2 gallon air compressor from Goodwill for $40. That's the price of 4 cans of air for infinite air.


Post# 437684 , Reply# 27   1/24/2021 at 09:43 (1,159 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        
Canned Air

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The canned air I buy Ultra Duster industrial strength 10oz last long enough for me. When you consider I may use it for just a few seconds each time. I rebuilt 3 vacuums last year, and I still have some air left in the last can I bought. I can't justify buying a compressor, for as little as I use it. The canned air is easy and convenient, and takes up much less space in my workshop. If I ever start using Air tools, instead of electric tools, that would be the only thing that would justify it in my mind.



This post was last edited 01/24/2021 at 10:00
Post# 437687 , Reply# 28   1/24/2021 at 10:23 (1,159 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

My girlfriend made me realize the printing on the cover isn't the same on my model than the one pictured at the beginning of your post.

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Post# 437691 , Reply# 29   1/24/2021 at 10:56 (1,159 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        

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That is a later version of the window style. It's possible that some of the early models may have had their windows replaced with the latter style window. They changed over the years.

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Post# 437724 , Reply# 30   1/25/2021 at 06:53 (1,158 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Thanks for the pictures of the different covers.

I have a better knowledge of the Electrolux models, this Airway is a gift from a friend of mine. I didn't know vacuum cleaners like that even exist before I got this one. I'm not a collector, but I also have an old Rainbow and an Arrow, that's about it !

I'm just curious if I can make that Airway run properly after a good cleaning.

Do you know what is the purpose of the hollow handle ?


Post# 437725 , Reply# 31   1/25/2021 at 09:08 (1,158 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        

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The easiest way to show you is by showing some pages from a Air-Way manual. I hope it helps.

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Post# 437727 , Reply# 32   1/25/2021 at 10:02 (1,158 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Oh well, that 's pretty clear, thanks !!!

Post# 437728 , Reply# 33   1/25/2021 at 10:58 (1,158 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

I'd like to separate the handle from the aluminium body, is there a way to apply reasonnable strength to achieve this without damaging the handle neither the body?

I thought about forcing a big flat screwdriver in the slot shown there and then working the handle left and right while holding the body with my feet or having it clamped in a vise (with wood pads), is there a better way I don't see ?


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Post# 437730 , Reply# 34   1/25/2021 at 11:26 (1,158 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        

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This can be challenging, be very careful these Air-Way's are notorious for the housing, or casting breaking at and around that screw area. If the handle will not come out it might be best to leave as is, and work around it, rather then trying to force it and cause more damage.

Post# 437732 , Reply# 35   1/25/2021 at 12:26 (1,158 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

I put my favorite home-made loosenut last night (50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid), hammered the tube a few times (with a wood block) and open slightly the slot with a screwdriver and it came out pretty easily.

Post# 437733 , Reply# 36   1/25/2021 at 12:27 (1,158 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)        

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If the screw is too tight for manual unscrewing, try a cordless screwdriver (and no that doesn't mean a power drill). No clamps or vices.

Post# 437735 , Reply# 37   1/25/2021 at 13:54 (1,158 days old) by Air-WayCharlie (USA)        

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VacMadMan is correct about separating the handle from the fan housing. I took my Air-Way Super Chief to a vac store friend where I live. In trying to separate the two, (the Super Chief had a metal handle), he cracked opened the joint in the metal. He thought I was going to flip out but I just looked at him and said I know you WILL fix it.

It is not easy to find someone who can weld aluminum/pot metal/steel, but he did. It came out looking perfect and undamaged--no lines or scars. He never did say what it cost him but I have a feeling it was plenty.

So be very careful and like you mentioned, it may be easier just to work around it.


Post# 437748 , Reply# 38   1/25/2021 at 18:05 (1,158 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

To huskyvacs: screw was pretty easy to remove, it was the handle itself that was stuck in there.

Handle is now separated from the housing without any problem, then it will be easier to buff the aluminium housing eventually.


Post# 437903 , Reply# 39   1/28/2021 at 13:39 (1,155 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

After a good cleaning of the internal parts, I got it back together and switched it on.

I noticed lots of arcing for the very first seconds, then it calmed down to what you can see on the second picture. So I guess everything's fine in there, isn't it?


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Post# 437905 , Reply# 40   1/28/2021 at 14:52 (1,155 days old) by electrolux137 (Los Angeles)        

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~
~

The first time I saw an Air-Way upright was in the mid-1970s. Someone had left a straight-suction model at the curb across the street. I was tremendously fascinated, of course, and brought it home. Mama was afraid it had cooties in it or would catch on fire or cause an electrical short so she forbid me from bringing it in the house or running it. I had to play with it in the basement.

 

The first canister-type Air-Way I recall seeing was in the mid-1960s. It was a Sanitozer Model 77 that a neighbor lady had. She used it horizontally on the floor rather than standing upright. I thought it was very strange looking with its four runners.


Post# 437944 , Reply# 41   1/29/2021 at 09:11 (1,154 days old) by dysonman1 (the county)        
Francois

dysonman1's profile picture
The Carbon Brushes need to be re-seated to the commutator, which is a simple and easy thing to do. But, you'll need a piece of carbon brush seating stone. A local vac shop should be able to sell you a small piece which is all you'll need. With the machine running, hold the seating stone against the commutator close to the leading edge of one of the brushes. Press against the commutator for a few seconds, all the sparking should now be a very minimal of just a small line of blue sparks right at the leading edge, with no 'fire' ringing the commutator. Because I own a vacuum shop, we use these seating stones all the time when working on machines where we have to take a motor apart, like a Rainbow or an Electrolux or Kirby.

Post# 437961 , Reply# 42   1/29/2021 at 18:45 (1,154 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Thanks for the suggestion. Any purchase like this will have to wait till the end of a crucial phase of the pandemic here, as it is a non-essential product. Our government want us to stay home except to go to work and to the grocery and post office, more or less.

Post# 437977 , Reply# 43   1/30/2021 at 03:17 (1,153 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

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If the arcing has calmed down, it's already worn in. Should be fine, maybe run it some more.

Post# 438007 , Reply# 44   1/30/2021 at 21:36 (1,153 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Madman, yes that's what I think too.

Before I put it all together, I'd like to improve the look of the machine. First, I'd like to polish the aluminium housing. Should I use a smooth buffing wheel with buffing paste? the green one or the rouge ? Will a dremmel be useful for hard to access sections?

Also, I'd paint the handle with flat black and the visible part of the inside of the housing, under the flow indicator, with aluminium paint or simply grey.

Any recommendations ?


Post# 438010 , Reply# 45   1/31/2021 at 01:49 (1,153 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

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Personally, I'd leave the inside of the housing alone. If you paint it, it will look funny, and the paint will flake off or just become dirty.

Never used the green polishing compound, so I don't know. I use stitched cotton buffing wheels, with black then red then white rouge/compound. Then a loose cotton wheel with Mother's mag polish (you could do it by hand). Then some kind of wax.

You could shortcut it by just using the red rouge, then polish.


Post# 438014 , Reply# 46   1/31/2021 at 08:00 (1,152 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

Well, I should have put a picture with my last post.

The indicator housing has rusted inside and it shows through the window, really not cute...I think about a good sanding and painting it with rust resistant paint but I'm open to suggestions.


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Post# 438015 , Reply# 47   1/31/2021 at 09:28 (1,152 days old) by VacMadMan (Pueblo Co.)        

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I think it would look just fine painted and would stand up well if done right with good paint. Be careful sanding the window may become too lose. I wet sand the outside of the housing starting with 1500 grit or 2000 grit depending on the level of oxidation and damage. Then work up to 3000 grit before polishing with mother's mag polish.

Post# 438019 , Reply# 48   1/31/2021 at 12:40 (1,152 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

I think about aluminium enamel airspray can paint, or Tremclad or Rust-o-leum paint.

I would just removed what is already flaking before I paint. Thank you for the tip, i'll be carefull not removing too much , i don't want the metal spring that holds the cover to become too loose.


Post# 438026 , Reply# 49   1/31/2021 at 15:36 (1,152 days old) by quebecois (Waterloo, Canada)        

I think about aluminium enamel airspray can paint, or Tremclad or Rust-o-leum paint.

I would just removed what is already flaking before I paint. Thank you for the tip, i'll be carefull not removing too much , i don't want the metal spring that holds the cover to become too loose.


Post# 438079 , Reply# 50   2/2/2021 at 01:08 (1,151 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

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It's hard to tell what it was originally. Was it nickel plated or painted? I guess paint would be ok.


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