Thread Number: 41107  /  Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Electrolux 1205 Motor Rebuild 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 436268   12/14/2020 at 08:17 (1,219 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hello,
We are the original owners of this Electrolux 1205 from 1975 and I had a few questions as to sourcing good quality parts:

1. Where would you guys order the (I think #608) fan bearing from? Is there a supplier that you know of that carries these bearings that are of known good quality?

2. Is there a specific oil that you guys like for the sleeve bearing on the other side of the armature?

3. Where do you guys get those armature dressing sticks that I see people using to clean up the sections that the brushes come in contact with?

Thanks,
Steve

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Post# 436269 , Reply# 1   12/14/2020 at 08:21 (1,219 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
Personally, I have always bought my bearings at the local Auto Parts store.

Armature sticks should be found at any QUALITY vacuum repair shop. Where in the US are you located? Many of our members have sought out good shops in different parts of the world, and can make a recommendation.

For the bushings, I always use 3-in-1 MOTOR oil (in the BLUE label bottle). Do not use plain 3-in-1, it will gum up the bronze sleeve bearing

Post# 436271 , Reply# 2   12/14/2020 at 09:33 (1,218 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi vacuumland650,

I'm in Northern NJ.

Really - autoparts stores carry bearings for electric motors? There is an Autozone close to me. I wouldn't have thought to look there.

Thanks

Post# 436274 , Reply# 3   12/14/2020 at 10:21 (1,218 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
Most urban.....

places have bearing and seal shops now. Just go there....tell them the application and they will measure the bearing. Stay away from Chinese bearings if you can.

The product mentioned above is specifically for small electric motors. It is 20wt non-detergent oil. Pretty easy to find. I use it as well in bushings, although I make no claim that it's the 'best' product out there.

I would certainly test your armature....plenty of YouTube vids on that. Also get the correct brushes. Commutator sticks are out there....I found mine on eBay....although shortly after I bought mine, the seller doubled his price so I don't recommend him anymore.

Kevin

Post# 436282 , Reply# 4   12/14/2020 at 14:15 (1,218 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hey Kevin,

"Most urban.....

places have bearing and seal shops now. Just go there....tell them the application and they will measure the bearing. Stay away from Chinese bearings if you can. "

Yea - I don't know of any of those types of shops around here.

"Commutator sticks are out there....I found mine on eBay....although shortly after I bought mine, the seller doubled his price so I don't recommend him anymore. "

That lousy bugger. Well, at least you got one before the price went up.

Thanks,
Steve



Post# 436284 , Reply# 5   12/14/2020 at 16:01 (1,218 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Perhaps

 A local Aerus branch can help you. I know there’s one in Denville and another in Fairfield...not sure where in Northern No you are but my parents live in Morris Plains and I grew up there so I know these branches still exist. If you need to locate one go to Aerusvacuums.com and try the store locator.

We tool our Golden Jubilee to the Denville branch long ago when the bearing was making lots of noise and the guy there just told us the motor was on its way out. We didn’t keep it because we had 2 more newer models to replace it with.


Jon

Post# 436285 , Reply# 6   12/14/2020 at 16:39 (1,218 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Jon,
I used to work in Morris Plains. It's about an hour away. I'll check out Aerusvacuums.com.
Thanks,
Steve


Post# 436293 , Reply# 7   12/15/2020 at 00:28 (1,218 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Honestly, if your motor's commutator is torn up enough that you really need a commutator stone... it's probably shot. It doesn't really need to be perfect. As long as it doesn't have any major grooves and isn't burnt, a ScotchBrite pad is generally good enough.

For the ball bearing, read the trade number on the old bearing and order one of a reputable bearing maker on ebay.

Post# 436295 , Reply# 8   12/15/2020 at 00:58 (1,218 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
The idea....

 of the commutator stone isn't to reshape/rehab a commutator. It's simply to dress up the segment so your new brushes break in correctly.

Note that these Aerus places are very geographical as far as being 'helpful'. The one here 45 miles away, has people with accents that I can't even understand. Propose anything about older Elux's to them and you get silence....then a pitch for a new vac.

I was talked into that Beyond "Guardian" air purifier by a 'roving' Aerus salesman.
$3,000+ unit. Probably cost the factory $500 or less to make. It did everything they claimed it would do however. This is the third yr with it. The filter is supposed to be changed every 6 months, $120. My UV light went out and that alone was $50. They would argue that over three yrs, that's a bargain.....only if you're rich and/or have someone with severe respiratory problems.

Same technology that NASA uses yadda, yadda, yadda. It's really a way for Aerus to get their foot in the door and sell you their other products. My fan makes more noise than it should. You should see that sucker....huge thing, sealed. I don't think I've ever seen a continuous fan quite like that. Salesman said to just go outside and blow the dust off it.....doesn't make any difference. I would bet money he's never fixed one.

Kevin

Post# 436298 , Reply# 9   12/15/2020 at 09:01 (1,217 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Madman,
Yea, I'm guessing it's not in horrible shape. I'll know more when I open it up. I was thinking of actually using 660 grit sandpaper while I spun the armature in a drill - to clean it up.
I just wasn't sure if it would then have to be run in with a dressing stone or not.

Thanks for the info,
Steve


Post# 436304 , Reply# 10   12/15/2020 at 10:34 (1,217 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Real1shep,
I know what you mean about those kind of sales techniques. When I was younger, I bought a few Thermogard replacement windows because a similar sales tactic. After living with them for a while, I came to the conclusion that they are overpriced and they don't keep the cold out the way I expected they would (from the sales pitch). They also gave a lifetime warranty against breakage - no matter what. But, the creeps went bankrupt a few years later and then start up again under a slightly different name.
Lesson learned.

Post# 436306 , Reply# 11   12/15/2020 at 13:30 (1,217 days old) by sekess (US)        

Looks like I should replace that tubing that is parts of the dirt sensor mechanism. It's getting yellow and it's not as pliable as it should be.

Do you guys know what size (diameter and wall thickness) tubing that is? I can measure it. But, I thought maybe it's some standard size that's used in there.

Thanks

Post# 436316 , Reply# 12   12/15/2020 at 17:34 (1,217 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
That tubing you......

can find at any good hardware store.....just try to make sure it's not from China. Their tubing has lumps and irregularities.

Make sure you replace all of it. I usually take the mechanism completely apart and examine/clean the diaphragm etc.....but you don't have to.

You could dress the armature with 600 grit, chucked in a drill. But it's more reliable to have the motor running and dress with the stone. People do both....I prefer the stone.

Make sure the brushes move freely inside the holders...if they bind even the smallest amount, your carbons won't wear evenly.

I'll reject an armature if the segments are significantly worn down and you can see a wear line indent where the brushes have been running.

Also make sure there's a significant groove between the segments. If the groove it too shallow, you'll get arcing.

Kevin

Post# 436317 , Reply# 13   12/15/2020 at 17:59 (1,217 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the info.

Is it possible to take the dirt sensor mechanism totally apart? I removed the geared screw section that has the 2 o-rings. I lubricated the o-rings and then screwed it back into the diaphragm body.
I wanted to disassemble the body so as to clean out the dust. But, the two halves looked like they may have been glued together in 2 spots - not sure about that. I didn't want to start forcing things. So, I left that as is.
But since you mentioned it, is there a way to separate the two halves without cracking anything?
Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436325 , Reply# 14   12/15/2020 at 21:43 (1,217 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Kevin,
My mistake. You meant the diaphragm on the other side of the tubing. I thought you were talking about the clear plastic section that does the dial adjusting.


Post# 436326 , Reply# 15   12/15/2020 at 22:19 (1,217 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Wow Steve

 Small world. My parents moved to Morris Plains in 1966 and are still there. I was born in 69 and lived there until 1993 when I moved to Dallas for a job. Rarely do people know Morris Plains so I usually just say Morristown and Parsippany areas since Morris Plains is so small. Anyway., 8 think both the Denville and Fairfield shops are the old school more helpful types than some that have changed ownership more recently. You can also try rvacacuums.com and ask to speak with Ray’s son. Ray Satterwhite is an Old school Electrolux now Aerus dealer in Richmond Virginia and his son rebuilds and restores old machines. Take a look at the web site, give him a call perhaps he will get you what you need!

Nice that you want to save your Golden Jubilee. I remember when the one my Grandmother had was brand spanking new! Wish I had more to offer. I have a Silverado and the motor has gone out this year. There is a guy on here that rebuilds these motors. I’ll have to look at the thread and see if I can find his member name and perhaps you can email him for additional info. Not all me members check in regularly.

Jon

Post# 436331 , Reply# 16   12/16/2020 at 02:01 (1,217 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Sekess - 660 grit will work fine. (Personally, I'd use a ScotchBrite after the 660 anyway.) Be careful chucking the armature in a drill. Especially with the end of the shaft that goes in the sleeve bearing, as that needs to be perfectly smooth. What I do is clip a piece of rubber hose in the appropriate size and put it over the shaft before chucking it into the drill. Since most people won't have spools of vacuum hose in 4 different sizes, a couple wraps of masking tape will work (clean off the adhesive with alcohol afterwards). And chuck it in gently. Or just chuck the other end of the shaft lol. Still try not to mar screw threads or anything like that.

Also, 2nd on Real1shep - clean the grooves between the commutator segments. Run a box knife through each groove. The carbon powder buildup will be removed as easily as you'd imagine. However, some motors (in general) have the grooves filled with some kind of plastic or epoxy... which won't yield to a box knife, just a heads up.

When it's all done, the motor will have to be run for some time to break in the brushes, if not using a stone. But like... that's easier anyway lol.

Post# 436334 , Reply# 17   12/16/2020 at 04:52 (1,217 days old) by sekess (US)        

Thanks Jo,
Yea, I was in Morris Plains some time ago. It was a nice town.
I'll definitely take a look at rvacuums.com and call after I get it all apart and get more organized as to what I need.

Hey MadMan,
Great info - thanks.
You just clean it with a ScotchBrite pad manually? Or, do you also have the armature spinning in a drill - like when you use the 669 grit paper?
and
Can't you just clean off the armature with contact cleaner instead of the abrasives? Or, is that not enough?

Thanks again guys,
Steve

Post# 436337 , Reply# 18   12/16/2020 at 09:30 (1,216 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
I don't want.....

 to be misquoted here. I NEVER chuck a shaft up in a drill...too easy to mar or put a burnell in the shaft. I said you "could" do it that way.

I used to gently rotate the shaft in my hands using 600 grit paper only to get the charring off....then use the stone to help set the new brushes.

There's a whole technology thing on how deep the gap depth should be between the segments. Depends on the diameter on the commutator, brush width etc. That's too much bother for me. I've only seen it matter if the grooves are too shallow.

Kevin



Post# 436338 , Reply# 19   12/16/2020 at 09:38 (1,216 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
Ohh....

 and if you do need to deepen the segments grooves, MM is correct as there will be an epoxy like substance there. You need like a draw knife of the correct thickness. They make commutator knives that are made for this purpose. I've always been able to find just the right blade size from cutting knives I have. Even so, it takes time and patience.

Kevin

Post# 436380 , Reply# 20   12/17/2020 at 00:28 (1,216 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Chucking an armature in a drill is sort of the fancy way of doing it. It's good for folks like me who have all the tools at their disposal, and random things like rubber hose laying around.

In my experience, most motors won't need more than a ScotchBrite pad, just to freshen it up. With or without a drill, but yes, if you do the sandpaper, I would do a second pass with the ScotchBrite afterwards. It's probably not absolutely necessary, though. You could get away with just the 660 grit.

As for contact cleaner, it really depends on the condition of the commutator. It it's in great shape, a wash with contact cleaner or brake cleaner would be plenty (and unnecessary). But most motors after having been used a while could use some freshening up with abrasives that will actually remove an oxide layer and possibly even out some very minor surface imperfections. Then you get motors that have more pronounced grooves which basically need to be machined to be perfect again.

It all depends. You don't *need* to do any of this. I bet the motor runs fine as it is. The goal is really just a thorough inspection, and responding to anything that needs attention.

Mind you, there are people that frown upon the use of abrasives. They are the same people that say no to abrasives on electrical contacts, and will tell you that you need to use an electrical contact cleaning strip... which is legit just a fancy piece of 500 grit. So yeah.

Post# 436382 , Reply# 21   12/17/2020 at 06:07 (1,216 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi MadMan,
Yea - that's what I will do. After opening it up, I'll decide how far to go with cleaning up the commutator based on its condition.
At the very least - I'll lubricate the sleeve bearing. Too bad it's not possible to grease the ball bearing. It would be nice to get some fresh grease in there - even if it is still spinning freely.
I'll know more once I get a little time to open her up all the way.

Thanks MAdMan,
Steve

Post# 436384 , Reply# 22   12/17/2020 at 09:02 (1,215 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
Depending.....

 on the ball bearing, you can re-grease them. Most have covered sides to keep the grease in. Those covers can be pried off gently with a dental pick by the outer edge of the seal, if they're not metal.

However, if you put a finger inside the inner race, push and rotate......and you feel any roughness whatsoever, I'd replace it.

Using a drill is not fancy, just convenient. Chucking up in a milling machine and doing a true 90 degree clean with a jig would be fancy. Most commutators are easy to clean with just the the sandpaper method and/or Scotchbrite. But even with Scotchbrite there are green, purple, brown(maybe more)....all have varying degrees of abrasives.

I think you get the idea. This has become sort of a pissing match of 'do this', 'do that'. All have their own range of usefulness and none of them really 'wrong'.....so just pick your poison....lol.

Kevin

Post# 436389 , Reply# 23   12/17/2020 at 11:34 (1,215 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hey Kevin,
Oh - that's potentially good about the ball bearing - that I might be able to grease her up. And yea - if there's any roughness - I'll replace.

Thanks

Post# 436390 , Reply# 24   12/17/2020 at 11:43 (1,215 days old) by sekess (US)        

Now - One issue that I know I have is with the the sheath for the power nozzle wand. At the top where the hose gets inserted, there is a springy circular metal piece of metal that catches and holds the hose end. That piece of metal is broken. there is no spring to it. There is the same gripping mechanism at the power nozzle itself. That one still works as it should. So what happens is - the hose doesn't stay in the sheath when you pull back, it easily slides out.

So, is that repairable? The spring steel piece doesn't look like it was meant to be repaired.

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436398 , Reply# 25   12/17/2020 at 16:13 (1,215 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
No

 It’s better to change the upper wand altogether. The new style uses a click lock that locks in to the slots on the hose handle metal. There are two of those on the hose handle. The wand does come out and it is removable by putting a small screwdriver in the slot just below the spring clip release and pulling the clip upward and holding it upward while then pulling the wand out of the sheath. When you start this process however you have to push the wand in while pulling the little locking clip up with the small screwdriver. Also if your sheath is cracked near the power connection (typical) the newer ones were better reinforced snd thicker m so they won’t crack as easily so you may wish to change that too. How is your hose? I’d it’s the old braided one it may be due for replacement, there were notorious for coming apart internally and then leaking. You can test it eventually by covering the end of it with your hand while the vac is running. Open the blower door and see if there is air coming out with your other hand. If there is, the hose is leaking. Virtually no air should come out the exhaust if there are no leaks when the end of the hose is blocked off from suction.

Jon

Post# 436404 , Reply# 26   12/17/2020 at 17:55 (1,215 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Jo,
Yes - it's the old braided style hose. I started taking some of the vac apart. So, I'll have to test it after things go back together. But either way, I was thinking about replacing the hose since I have heard that the rubber will most probably deteriorate if it hasn't already.
The plastic on the sheathing by the lower (and upper) is still intact - no cracks. But since the spring clip is broken, I'm going to need to replace it anyway.

Is there a particular place (online) that you guys like for buying hoses, wands, sheaths, etc?

Thanks for the info,
Steve

Post# 436407 , Reply# 27   12/17/2020 at 20:29 (1,215 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
To get......

 OE, buy used on eBay or someplace similar. Check out old vac shops in your area if applicable.

You could ask here too in the Super Market forum.

Kevin

Post# 436410 , Reply# 28   12/17/2020 at 21:57 (1,215 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Usually ebay

 You’ll find in other threads about Electrolux hoses that opinions vary in the generic hoses. Personally I prefer the OEM ones. Used OEM vinyl hoses come up periodically on eBay and there are a few for your machine available now. The way you can tell the difference from an OEM versus generic is the hose handle. Only the OEM will have the round dial on the underside for the suction control. The generics will not have it or have some other sort of system. The vinyl hose is the only way to go, that you will find to be unanimous here. Aerus does sell the hose still for your machine if you prefer new and it’s $129.

You may not need to replace the sheath as the inner metal part that has the broken retaining spring for your handle slides out of it. But the new sheaths are nice as they also include a slide button on the opposite end should you wish to take the lower exposed metal wand off for storing. Again, here I’d go OEM...the generics do not have as high quality plastic.

You may wish to bypass the terminal block as you remove the cordwinder. You’ll notice it is attached to the inside side of the metal body and makes the electrical connection between the unit and the cordwinder.. Aerus sells a bypass kit. The terminal blocks became problematic and a known source of arcing and were discontinued for a direct wired system. It is something you can install yourself and is inexpensive. My Dad and I did it to our Golden Jubilee when I was just a teenage and I’m 51 now! The Electrolux rep was very nice and told us how to do it. All we needed was a drill and a screwdriver.

Just thinking ahead since you have the machine apart so you can give it a “full overhaul”.

Also replacing the brush on the power nozzle will do wonders for you if you’ve never replaced it. It will almost self propel itself with a new brush roll!

Bristle strips are available if your floor brush is worn. WD-40 works great on the rug and floor tool swivel elbow to make that swivel much better. Genuine horsehair bristles are available for the combination upholstery tool/dusting brush if yours is worn...you don’t need a whole new tool.

WD-40 is great for the wheels too especially the front swivel one to keep it working well and quiet.

The automatic control should be set between 2 and 4 for regular cleaning, a lower number will trigger it to open sooner and a higher number will keep it from opening too soon. However, the cleaner should not be run continuously in 5 or 6 as it will wear out your motor. Some people think the bag should be stuffed before changing and hence use 6. This is wrong and will burn out your motor.maths bag needs some empty space to pass air through effectively to cool the motor and should be changed when the system triggers in the 2-4 range normally depending on your cleaning needs. 5 and 6 can be used to override the system for fine dust such as plaster or ash to complete the job and 1 is usually for people who have lots of shedding pets. If you have a lot of carpet use a lower number, it will insure that your are not running the machine with low suction due to a bag being blocked by too much dirt in it. It will stop when the suction goes down enough to reduce the efficiency needed for thorough rug cleaning. Higher numbers are ok for hardwoods as you don’t need as good of suction efficiency for that type of cleaning so up you can allow the machine to run less efficiently for longer and bag with more dirt.

Make sure you are using genuine or 4 ply bags. The two ply generics are horrible and usually have a plain cardboard top with no printing on the top. The 4 ply multi filter brand ones are pretty good but Aerus claims their current 2 ply bags are far better but some debate that on here. I think both will be fine. But again, the 2 ply cheap ones are the worst and I’d stay away from those for sure.

Jon

Post# 436411 , Reply# 29   12/17/2020 at 22:02 (1,215 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Here’s a genuine OEM hose used

 And here’s a very good hose OEM...used...I’d snap it up right away if you definitely are going to keep the vac and rehab it. Fits your machine!

Keep the hose handle from the old one though as a spare as it will fit the rubber hose if you ever end up damaging the handle. I can tell you how to properly remove it without damaging it. It removes opposite of what you’d think.

Jon

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Jo's LINK on eBay


Post# 436412 , Reply# 30   12/17/2020 at 22:06 (1,215 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Upper Sheath and wand and cord assembly

 Here’s a genuine replacement of the sheath, the wand as well, and the sheath cord too all included on eBay.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Jo's LINK on eBay


Post# 436417 , Reply# 31   12/18/2020 at 08:13 (1,215 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Jon,
Excellent info - thanks.

That second ebay link (sheath) - are you sure that it is genuine? He listed it as unbranded.

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436418 , Reply# 32   12/18/2020 at 08:21 (1,215 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
Ask.....

 the seller through eBay....that way there is a record of it if it's not Electrolux.

Kevin

Post# 436419 , Reply# 33   12/18/2020 at 08:24 (1,215 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
Go for.....

 the Perfect HEPA bags. A little more expensive than the paper ply, but worth it.

Kevin

Post# 436421 , Reply# 34   12/18/2020 at 09:08 (1,214 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Jon,
Ok - snapped up hose as per your suggestion - thanks for the heads up.

Still looking into the sheath.

Steve

Post# 436422 , Reply# 35   12/18/2020 at 09:10 (1,214 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Kevin,
I don't see those perfect bags on Amazon (at least after a quick search). Where do you usually buy those from?
Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436424 , Reply# 36   12/18/2020 at 09:31 (1,214 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
I’ll have to look

 At the sheath more closely. The ribs on the front side, if they are horizontal just like your current one, I believe that indicates it’s genuine, if it’s tiny little squares then it’s generic. Electrolux never stamped them with the Electrolux logo. I’ve not seen a lot of generic sheaths but when I have I’ve always noticed the ribbed pattern is different from the original. Perhaps Electrolux patented this characteristic.

Jon

Post# 436425 , Reply# 37   12/18/2020 at 09:35 (1,214 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Steve

 Looking at the sheath photos closely I believe it is generic. Some things are definitely different than on the genuine. Maybe wait on this one. The ribs are horizontal but also the plastic doesn’t look as refined as the genuine. I have a lot of Electrolux models and most all parts are genuine. I can usually tell a generic part very quickly. Some generic parts do work ok though for a good long time, but it’s nice to have genuine.

Jon

Post# 436430 , Reply# 38   12/18/2020 at 12:53 (1,214 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
A substitute to the Perfeft branded HEPA bags Is the VAC (Vacuum America Clean) brand of cloth HEPA bag

Post# 436431 , Reply# 39   12/18/2020 at 13:03 (1,214 days old) by dysonman1 (the county)        

dysonman1's profile picture
The Vac America Clean (VAC) bags ARE Perfect bags. That's what comes in the new Perfect tank type. The best bag you can use in an Electrolux since they are HEPA bags and leak no dust. The genuine Aerus bags are terrible in comparison.

Post# 436438 , Reply# 40   12/18/2020 at 15:50 (1,214 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
That's right.....

 Tom! And the Aerus guy was in my house trying to sell me those paper bags....they weren't even the quality of some older paper ply bags I had. I told him I had HEPA bags. He said there was no such thing for Type C bags.

I got a handful out of the cupboard and showed him. He got out some paper and wrote down the name. Then he said they weren't really HEPA bags. At that point I asked him to leave my house for his own health.

@Steve:If you go into eBay and type 'Electrolux Type C bags"....the Perfect HEPA bags are the first listing you'll see(at least it was that way this morning).


Kevin

Post# 436443 , Reply# 41   12/18/2020 at 17:25 (1,214 days old) by sekess (US)        

Thanks Kevin - I'll take a look.

Post# 436468 , Reply# 42   12/19/2020 at 14:09 (1,213 days old) by vaclab (Pickerington, Ohio)        
Electrolux Type C Bags Particle Emissions Test

 vaclab's profile picture
Here's a comparison of three type "C" bags. The "Perfect" brand are clearly the best.

Average 0.3 um particle counts:
Initial Room = 5859, DVC Paper = 8400, V.A.C. HEPA = 1650, Perfect HEPA = 370

Electrolux Type C Bags Particle Emissions Test





Post# 436470 , Reply# 43   12/19/2020 at 14:35 (1,213 days old) by titaniciscool (Nampa, ID)        
evacuumstore.com HEPA bags

 I have been using these in my Super J, as well the Style R versions in my Epic 8000. They seem to be pretty affordable as well. I get emails fairly often of sales they are having on them.

I wonder how they would fare in the same tests above.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO titaniciscool's LINK
Post# 436473 , Reply# 44   12/19/2020 at 14:46 (1,213 days old) by vaclab (Pickerington, Ohio)        
Those Blue Colored Bags

 vaclab's profile picture
Appear to be the same as the V.A.C. bags, just tinted blue. If so, they would have the same filtration properties.

Bill

Post# 436475 , Reply# 45   12/19/2020 at 15:00 (1,213 days old) by suckolux (Yuba City, CA)        

suckolux's profile picture
I have the perfect bags in my Silverado, they are the only ones that don't allow something to escape onto the pre-motor filter which I put in. Every other one the filter is dirty over one use of a bag.

Post# 436478 , Reply# 46   12/19/2020 at 15:22 (1,213 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Vaclab,
Nice video and a cool little meter.

That stinks - I just bought some V.A.C. bags this morning. I thought they were the same as the Perfect bags. The description said "Perfect C101 Hepa Vacuum Bags By V.A.C.".

Oh well. After I go through these - I'll have to do a more extensive search for the real Perfect bags.

Anyway - Thanks again - great video post,
Steve

Post# 436479 , Reply# 47   12/19/2020 at 15:24 (1,213 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hey suckolux,
They make pre-motor filters for these metal canister Electoluxes?

Steve

Post# 436484 , Reply# 48   12/19/2020 at 16:20 (1,213 days old) by suckolux (Yuba City, CA)        

suckolux's profile picture
Not that I am aware of Steve. I would cut to fit my Miele pre-motor filter and put in the bottom of the can between the motor and the bag of the Silverado. That's when I noticed that filter got very dirty very quickly with most of the bags available and there was a dusty smell in the air. Not there with the perfect bags, my only issue is the automatic shut off doesn't work so well with those because the air flow doesn't drop.

Post# 436488 , Reply# 49   12/19/2020 at 16:57 (1,213 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
They're available for the Discovery/Epic/Genesis, etc. uprights but not the canisters, that I'm aware of.

Post# 436495 , Reply# 50   12/19/2020 at 18:07 (1,213 days old) by sekess (US)        

Ah ok.

Thanks suckolux and human,

Steve

Post# 436498 , Reply# 51   12/19/2020 at 18:53 (1,213 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
They are.....

available through Aerus. They were sending me the pre-filters automatically on my card. I had to stop that because they were piling up. I don't change them with the same frequency as Aerus suggests. And personally, I think they're wrong on their change interval.

They fit in my Diamond J's, Super J and 1205...haven't tried them in the G yet because I quit using the G's.

Kevin

Post# 436549 , Reply# 52   12/21/2020 at 17:34 (1,211 days old) by sekess (US)        
Cracked plastic

 Well that stinks.
I didn't even get to the motor yet and there is a minor issue.
When I was removing the vacuum tubing from the rewind assembly, I noticed the tubing connection felt looser than I though t it should. So, I proceeded to remove the tubing very carefully. I got the tubing off without totally breaking off the plastic nub. But, it is cracked a lot. Not sure if I did it or if it was already cracked. I think it might have already been like that. But either way - it's just hanging on now. I have included a pic of the crack.

1. Is this a common failure that you guys know of?

2. Is there a reliable fix for this?

and

3. Are replacement plastic rewind housings available so that I can replace the entire back section?

Thanks guys,
Steve

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Post# 436552 , Reply# 53   12/21/2020 at 20:10 (1,211 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Ok so...

 1. I haven’t seen this as common but might be occurring in this recent day and age as the plastic ages.

2. You can try to glue it with crazy glue. It works quite well on plastic parts and see how that goes. It’s not something that ever flexes or bends once installed so if it holds well enough to reassemble the cordwinder you should be good to go.

3. There are some listings on eBay where people take apart the entire machine and sell each part individually, you’ll likely be able to obtain used replacement parts through one of these listings.

Be careful if you do take the cordwinder cover off, you could cause the spring to unwind and that’s not a fun task, you’ll need to hold the cord pulled out a bit when removing the cover and don’t let it go! Also when reassembling you’ll need to make sure the hook looking device on the spool needs to be in the same position as when you take off the cover otherwise the cord won’t lock in the extended position. That hook looking device is the thing that locks the cord from zipping back in.

You’ll need a nut driver to unscrew to remove the motor, works best I find.

I see your terminal block is not burnt on the cordwinder. That’s fortunate. Just make sure that when you reassemble that the contacts are set so they make a definite positive contact when reassembled or you could have arcing occur.

When reassembling the cordwinder or the motor cover, be careful as the cover corners of both of these have a tendency to crack and possibly snap off around the screw holes.

Jon







Post# 436553 , Reply# 54   12/21/2020 at 20:14 (1,211 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
filters won’t work on older metal models

 Those charcoal post bag, pre motor filters Aerus sells are useless on the vertical mount older metal models such as the model L, Model G and anything older, the bag chambers on those models have holes everywhere and so those filters would be useless on those models. The only work on the 1205 and newer horizontal oriented bag chamber models as the bag compartment has only one airway hole to the motor which this filter covers.

Jon

Post# 436554 , Reply# 55   12/21/2020 at 20:20 (1,211 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
And to add...

 To further elaborate on number 3...Usually when something wears out on the cordwinder, just that part was replaced at the Aerus dealer. The whole cordwinder back end was not usually something that was replaced, the base of it which is the main part you see from the back of the machine, is not necessary to be replaced and is pretty much indestructible so they would just open it up and replace any internal parts as needed and close it back up again. So getting a whole new one will be next to impossible and is likely not needed. You might find a used one though. How is your cord and plug end? Aerus dealers even replace the cords on these alone. My Mom had hers replaced on her Golden Jubilee and when it died, I kept the back end in case my cord wore out on my Silverado, I could just change the spool with the newer lightly used cord.

Jon

Post# 436560 , Reply# 56   12/21/2020 at 22:49 (1,211 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        
That can....

 be mended with a good plastic epoxy(not JB Weld).....there's epoxy out there just for the task, albeit expensive.

Use a Dremel bit to groove out the cracked area...a V groove is best. Let epoxy joint cure for days....don't get in a hurry to reassemble.

Eastwood makes a heat kit that would actually pin that joint permanently....but since it's just the one place, that would be cost prohibitive.

Kevin

Post# 436564 , Reply# 57   12/22/2020 at 07:00 (1,211 days old) by sekess (US)        

Thanks for the responses guys.

Do you guys know what kind of plastic this is (ABS, Polystyrene, etc..)?

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436572 , Reply# 58   12/22/2020 at 15:15 (1,210 days old) by sekess (US)        

So far - in searching ebay, I haven't found that part (cord rewind housing) for sale.

I'm thinking - my plan for this crack might be:

1. First, I'll try and glue or epoxy it. But, I will say - I have never had any luck with epoxies. They have always failed on me. Maybe I just never used a good enough product - not sure.

2. What I would actually like to do is cut the nub off flush and drill a hole where the nub used to be. Then, if I can find one, I'd like to install an appropriately sized bulkhead tubing adapter. It would be bolted and gasketed on so that it would create a nice seal. The issues I might have are - not sure if I can find the right sized bulkhead and more importantly - I'm not sure if there is enough room inside the housing at that spot for a nut to secure the fitting. I will know more when I open the winder up (which I'm not looking forward to-I'm having visions of the spring acting like one of those snakes-in-a-can.

So anyway - those are my thoughts at this point.

Let me also ask - what is the purpose of this vacuum tubing connection between the bag chamber and the cord rewinder housing?

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436577 , Reply# 59   12/22/2020 at 20:30 (1,210 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
The purpose

 Of this tubing is it is all part of the complicated automatic control system which monitors suction before and after the bag compartment to trigger the automatic shut off and pop the bag door open when suction efficiency is reduced from the bag filling with dirt. I’ve never quite understood why they have the tube going back to the cordwinder except for that perhaps the system needs access to a point where there is no air being sucked in or blown out and that would occur inside the cord reel which has access to the air outside the cleaner through the hole where the cord comes out and was a better place to obtain this than placing a hole somewhere on the cleaner body which someone could come along and fill up or tape over for some reason thinking it shouldn’t be there. I’m sure the marvelous engineer who developed the system knows why and perhaps an Aerus repair person likely knows why it needs to be there as well. I think that tube goes direct from the back corner of the bag compartment to the cordwinder but I could be wrong, there’s several connections in and around the bag compartment for it all and another in the suction port where the hose attaches. It’s quite fascinating how it all works to me and I’d love to read a study on it someday.

Definitely hold the cord when you remove the cordwinder cover. It should be set on a table with the outside side (gold painted side) down when you do it, maybe ebpevn put it in a vice so it stays put so you have your hands free. The spring will not explode unless you attempt to remove the reel or if you let go of the cord it will likely whip around 3 more times or so..if you attempt to remove the cord spool...then that could happen as the spring is wrapped around a smaller spool that you will see a part of hiding behind the cord spool. It is not fastened in so if you pull off the cord spool the spring spool will come off with it and then it will indeed explode like the snake in a can unless you hold both pieces together, once the spring spool comes off itks mounting post, it can then unwind itself. But if you hold it you can slowly unwind the spring around the cord spool until it is unwound. But likely if there’s nothing wrong with the cordwinder spring system itself I would not bother to remove the spools at all, just count how many time ps you have to rotate the cord spool using the exit hole as your guide until the tension is reduced off the spool. You will need to reload this tension before reassembling.

Trust me, unit is a nightmare if it explodes and could cut your hands up and it is basically a “tape” of spring steel. There is a keyhole at either end where it fastens to each of the spools. One must not overwind it when reassembling or it could come off the spool when you pull the cord all the way out, but should be done about 3 additional spins of the cord spool reel once the cord is fully back on its spool to allow the spring to be tight enough to roll up even the last few feet of cord. Looks like your cord end has been replaced, if some of the cord was shortened you will actually have more rotations of the reel you can wind the spring, but it really depends on how many feet of cord has been deleted from the original length.

I’d consider having the cord replaced if it’s the original. Sometimes the cords short out where they are tied at the end of the reel. Note it is looped under itself from the factory, this is correct to prevent tension on the inner connection of the cord.

Clean the electrical racetracks on the spool when you have it opened and the contacts on the inside of the cover that make contact with the racetracks.

Jon

Post# 436579 , Reply# 60   12/22/2020 at 21:35 (1,210 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi Jon,
Yes - that tubing in question goes from the back of the bag compartment to the cord-winder. And like you said, at the cord-winder side, the tubing is accessing outside air. I was also thinking that it might function as a little bit of a fail-safe in that if the bag ever happens to gets super clogged and the door opener mechanism fails to open the door, then the motor fan will at least have some airflow (although limited because the tubing diam is relatively small) from access to outside air. I don't know if it actually works like that. But, that was my thought as to its potential function.

Yea - I was thinking of clamping the cord down - just to be safe. From looking at the outside of the housing, I don't think there will be enough room in there to have a nut tighten down a small bulkhead adapter. But, I'll know more when I open it up.

Good idea on cleaning all the contact surfaces. I would like to also change over that terminal block to the upgrade kit that was mentioned earlier. I did some searching on it. But, nothing came up. When I finish disassembling everything and get all my thoughts organized, I guess I'll give Aerus a call and see if they still supply those. I couldn't even find o pic of one anywhere. If I could see one, I could probably just duplicate one if I can't still get an actual kit.

Steve

Post# 436590 , Reply# 61   12/23/2020 at 08:09 (1,210 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi again Jon,
Thank you very much for that detailed explanation on the rewind assembly - very helpful.
And, that was a great suggestion (to clamp down the cord end). I just popped off the cover and yea - the cord gave a nice yank against the clamp. I see how it works now. The cover is where the little stop hook anchors on.
I'll consider replacing the cord. I want to think on it a little. My first concern is that crack repair and refurbing the motor.

I also took off the motor cover. There is a foam gasket between the motor cover and the frame of the motor. That thing just deteriorated into a fine dust. What do you guys usually use as a new gasket? I assume that a new foam gasket isn't available.

Thanks Again,
steve

Post# 436844 , Reply# 62   12/29/2020 at 12:26 (1,203 days old) by sekess (US)        

So - what do you guys think. I have about 3/4" on the brushes. Do they still have a decent amount of life left to them? When new, how long was the length of the carbon - approximately?

Thanks,
Steve

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Post# 436860 , Reply# 63   12/29/2020 at 17:32 (1,203 days old) by sekess (US)        

And another thing - How the heck do you get that fan nut off of the armature shaft? You can't hold onto the fan (it's too delicate). Is there a trick that you guys use?

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436865 , Reply# 64   12/29/2020 at 18:34 (1,203 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
I think...

 Aerus will have the assembly for bypassing the cordwinder contacts. It’s a little kit with contacts you screw in to the the cordwinder and the terminal block and a set of wires to connect the two, it has those little crumpled on slide on and plug in ends in it and on the wires. I have my cordwinder from the golden jubilee. I’ll show you that end so you can see what was done on that part. It’s cheap from them, I’d just call them and get one...I’d hope they still make it. You can always call the Richmond Aerus dealer at rvavacuums.com. Ray’s son restores old machines so he will surely be excited to help you out to get what you need and for things like how to replace that crumbled foam gasket, etc. I think he’s going to be a good resource for you and excited that you are rehabbing your machine. The motor brushes look like they’ve still got life left but not sure how much ultimately and if they can be easily replaced I’d do that while you have it all apart. This is motivating me to check the brushes on my problematic Silverado.

I do not believe the tube going to the back would be a suction relief should the bag clog. If you put your hand over the hose inlet no air comes out of the blower end indicating air is not coming in that way. I just think it is all part of the suction monitoring system in some intricate way and need a stable unpressurized air source.

I think the fan nut may be reverse threaded so might need to hold and turn the nut clockwise. Not sure but something seems to make me think that. I’ve removed fan nuts a long time ago but it was back in 1991 so I can’t recall and I was replacing bad fans anyway and don’t remember how I held the thing from turning. I may have just reached in and held the armature with my fingers but can’t recall.

Wish I could help more.

Jon

Post# 436866 , Reply# 65   12/29/2020 at 19:37 (1,203 days old) by sekess (US)        

Thanks Jon,
I spoke to Brian in Richmond. I was hoping they'd have the terminal block kit. But, they don't make those anymore according to him and they don't have any left. What he sells as an alternative is a complete wiring harness from a newer model. It's a relatively big install in that you have to drill out the rivets on the front wheel sled assembly (and other). Plus, it costs about $50 plus shipping. That's a little steep for me - especially since I know there will be other costs in getting her up and running.

I'm thinking of just bypassing the terminal block myself. The only tricky part will be the attachment to the terminals on the cord winder.
I would really appreciate pics of how electrolux did that attachment. That would be a great help.
Thanks,
Jon

Post# 436869 , Reply# 66   12/29/2020 at 19:52 (1,203 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Photo of cordwinder contact point change

 Here’s what the kit changes in the cordwinder. Basically the contacts that wrap over to the outside side are cut off before they wrap over. Holes are drilled to secure the new right angle brass pieces which the jumper wires will slide onto. Then the screws are inserted into the holes with the brass angle pieces fastening them on. The angle pieces and the screws and the jumper wires are included in the kit along with the needed parts to convert at the terminal block which I cannot remember. The main unit is long gone so can’t show that fir reference. I saved the cordwinder since we have other luxe’s it fits and we had paid good money a year or two before it died to have a new cord put into it. I know my Dad had put a new cord end on but I think it may not have stayed on and perhaps come off when the cord was being retracted getting lost inside so Mom called her longtime Electrolux guy she bought her Model L from back in the early 70s to deal with it.

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Post# 436870 , Reply# 67   12/29/2020 at 20:00 (1,203 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
If your contacts are good

 If the terminal block and contacts are good you may not want to bother doing anything. I think your picture showed the cordwinder contacts as fine with no evidence of arcing. You may however want to slightly bend the metal strips out just a tiny bit on the cordwinder so when you reinstall it, there is a firm connection. It’s when there’s a poor connection of the metal not quite touching enough that is when the arcing occurs.

Annoying they don’t make those parts anymore. I know on my Silverado there is no terminal block so that system was discontinued either after the Golden Jubilee or Super J or Olympia. I suspect it was when the Super J came out as the body was lengthened for the slightly bigger motor. I think Aerus is just not wanting to support models beyond 40 years of age any longer. Too bad because many are still out there that may have had light use and will be around for many years to come and they are great machines.

Did Bryan give you any clues on any of the other things like the gasket?

Yes that entire wiring harness seems a bit pricey.

Jon

Post# 436871 , Reply# 68   12/29/2020 at 20:11 (1,203 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Another alternative ...

 Is to call many Aerus locations until you find one that still has the 1205 terminal block repair kit still in stock. It’s in a small envelope so shouldn’t cost much to have it mailed to you if it’s a location nowhere near you. You have to enter zip codes in the Aerus online store locator to find branches anywhere in the US. Would be nice if we could just get a giant state by state list of the existing branches and their addresses and phone numbers.

Aerus branches have been dwindling but there are lots in the Northeast because Electrolux was most popular there. I know you said you are in NJ right? Perhaps try the Denville and Fairfield branches and Inthink there might still be one in Somerville. Practically every other town used to have one. Those are two I know of. There’s one here in Dallas and another in Ft. Worth but that’s it for this huge area. Not as popular here in TX.

Jon

Post# 436875 , Reply# 69   12/29/2020 at 21:03 (1,203 days old) by sekess (US)        

Excellent Pics Jon,

Yes, I asked him about that gasket. He said it serves no purpose except to dampen vibrations. So, he said you could leave that off.
He may carry bearings. But,I have to see what I have in there first.
He didn't tell me if the brushes had a lot of life left to them. I asked him. but, he didn't say. He did say that they are not available any more either.
For plastic glue - he told me he gets some stuff from Germany. But, he didn't tell me what it is.
I hadn't attempted the fan nut prior to calling him. So, I didn't know it was going to be an issue at that point. If I had known, I would have asked him if he had any tips and if it was reverse threaded or not.

So, I'm going to have to kind of feel my way along with some of these things.

Those pics are very helpful. I'm thinking, I can just drill out the terminal block and eliminate it. Then I can use faston connectors wire-to-wire (no terminal block).
Now let me ask you - those screws that attach the 90 degree bent faston terminals to the cord winder - Are they just sheet metal screws? Or, are they bolts that are fastened on the inside of the cord winder with nuts?

Thanks again,
Steve

Post# 436876 , Reply# 70   12/29/2020 at 21:42 (1,203 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
And yet another alternative here

 Is to perhaps buy a used Electrolux that’s in good shape off eBay, craigslist, or facebook marketplace and choose either one similar to yours and keep your for the parts or get a more recent model in case you need parts in the future you won’t run into the discontinued problem again.

I’ve just about decided I’ll likely not bother to repair or replace the motor on my Silverado. The sled base is cracked and the body of the unit is pretty scratched up from the previous owner. My cord also seems like it might be on its last legs. My hose and attachments are all fine so I may just get SNL different main unit and be done with it. I could pick up a Super J, Olympia or another Silverado main unit for not too much and keep the old Silverado for spare parts if something goes and be good to go for several more years.

There are lots of good deals to be had. Saw an Aerus Lux Classic on NJ craigslist and it went for $60 and was barely used and included all the attachments. I almost inquired to buy it and pay the shipping extra to have it shipped to me.

Just saying...it’s another option here than all the work and expense you may be facing on your machine.

Jon

Post# 436902 , Reply# 71   12/30/2020 at 08:21 (1,203 days old) by sekess (US)        
Fan Nut Removal

 There's got to be some trick to getting that fan nut off the commutator shaft. The fan is too delicate to grab onto (I think).
Does anybody have a tip?

And Jon - I may be wrong. But, I don't think it's reverse threaded.

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436942 , Reply# 72   12/31/2020 at 10:48 (1,201 days old) by sekess (US)        
Power Nozzle Wand Sheath

 Hi Jon,
Let me ask you about that power nozzle sheath again. As you know, I'm in need of a new one because the catch spring at the top is broken. I'd like to go with an original Electrolux. But, I'll see what kind of deal comes available on ebay. I may go with an aftermarket one if it's a real good deal.
But either way - let me ask you - with the newer Electroluxs or the aftermarkets, will my older lower metal wand lock into the newer upper metal (located inside of the sheath) as it does on my current upper wand? Basically, I'm asking if the locking mechanism that locks the upper metal to lower metal wands is the same on mine as it is on the newer models and also the newer aftermarket ones?

Thanks Again,
Steve

Post# 436948 , Reply# 73   12/31/2020 at 11:28 (1,201 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
Looking back at the photos in your initial post, you have a PN2 with the newer style wand, so yes, you should be able to attach your lower wand to a new sheath. But why bother when you can just get the whole wand? That basic wand design was used with every Electrolux canister from your Golden Jubilee model, on up to the Canadian style plastic canisters from the '90s and 2000s. They're plentiful on eBay, just have a little patience and hold out for one in nice shape at a good price.

Post# 436953 , Reply# 74   12/31/2020 at 13:40 (1,201 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
Taking the fan off, I always wear a good leather work glove and hold the fan tight and level while using a socket to take the standard thread nut off. It may take some coaxing

Post# 436968 , Reply# 75   12/31/2020 at 18:34 (1,201 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi vacuumland,
Yup - leather glove worked like a charm. I knew I'd be able to get the nut off. I just didn't want to damage the fan in the process. Your tip worked great.
Getting that back cap off was a little tricky also. But after a little finagling, got that off as well.

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436969 , Reply# 76   12/31/2020 at 18:42 (1,201 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hi human,
Yup - it's a PN2. I see some of those wands on ebay. I just want to make sure that it has the newer fastening method (the way it fastens to the hose end). I'm not crazy about that spring clip that brole on mine. The PN2 head attaches to the bottom wand with the same spring clip mechanism as the one that broke at the top of the wand. The bottom one doesn't come off that often. So, that's probably fine as far as is not being exercised too often. But, I'd like to make sure I get the newer style at the top. It's hard to tell in the ebay listings what kind of clipping mechanism is used. The pics don't seem to normally focus on that.

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 436970 , Reply# 77   12/31/2020 at 18:43 (1,201 days old) by sekess (US)        
Happy New Year

 And Happy New Year to all you guys that have helped me out.

Thanks,
Steve

Post# 437016 , Reply# 78   1/2/2021 at 09:00 (1,200 days old) by sekess (US)        
Sleeve Bearing Oiling System

 So, can someone explain to me how this oiling system for the sleeve bearing is supposed to work?
I have included 2 pictures. I will oil up the shaft and the bearing and saturate the felt pad with oil. But as you can see from the pics, the shaft and the inside of the bearing aren't in any kind of contact with the felt pad. What is the theory here? How does the saturated pad keep the critical surfaces of the shaft and bearing lubricated?
The pad is pretty dry right now. But, I guess that would be expected after all these years. I would think with this kind of bearing, an oil port that can be accessed by the user would be advantageous. That way, some oil can be easily added by the user on a yearly (or thereabout) basis. But of course, that would have added to the manufacturing cost. So, there is that. And I assume that these bearings weren't that problematic. Although, I have heard that because the motor shaft runs in the horizontal position, that bearing does have a tendency to wear out-of-round. Which in turn, causes other issues. My guess is that a better oiling system here would have slowed down the progression of that kind of wear.

Anyway - just out of curiosity - does anyone have knowledge (or thoughts) on how this felt system is supposed to work? The felt is in contact with the outside of the bearing. Does the oil sort of work its way from the felt pad to the outside of the bearing and then to the inside of the bearing? I guess there might be some of that going on.
Thanks,
Steve

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Post# 437025 , Reply# 79   1/2/2021 at 14:58 (1,199 days old) by sekess (US)        
Fan Bearing

 Got the fan bearing out. It looks like SKI R8. But, I think it must be an SKF R8. I just started looking on ebay and Amazon. How much do these things usually go for? I'm seeing prices around $30. I'm going to have to look around some more. But if that's what they go for, I'm going to probably end up putting this guy back in. I really wish I could just pop the sides off and grease this guy up. But, they seem to be stamped on.

Steve

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Post# 437047 , Reply# 80   1/2/2021 at 22:45 (1,199 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Steve, judging by the design of the oil felt, the bearing is a sintered bronze bearing. Think of it as a metal sponge. The felt is meant to resupply the bearing with oil through capillary, not to directly oil the shaft.

Post# 437050 , Reply# 81   1/2/2021 at 23:20 (1,199 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
The wand

 The lower chrome wand has not changed in attachment style. It will work with the upper wand clip/sheath which is still the same but the sheath has a button that engages the clip to separate the two wands should people want to disassemble the two sections regularly.

As far as the power nozzle elbow goes, the spring clip is the only style made for that part a d is still made that way even in the new Aerus Lux classics, it just is covered with more plastic today.

The only clip that was changed in mid 1980s was the one that has broken on yours, on the upper power nozzle wand. Either style is pretty durable and I’ve seen many of the old style still unbroken and I’ve even seen the newer style wear out too. The metal see saw style push button wears down where it engages to the slots on the hose handle. To preserve wear on the push button, simply press it in while inserting the hose handle, even though you don’t need to. But not pressing it sill cause it to drag on the hose handle as it is slid in and cause the wear. The button is replaceable though if it does wear out. Overall the newer system is easier to use. For the older system, they are best used with a twisting motion when removing but on the power nozzle wand you can’t twist due to the electric port connection needing to be aligned.

If you can’t eventually find the wand and sheath on eBay it can always be purchased from Aerus but again you could likely buy an entire used complete set for all that you’ll end up spending in mixed parts for this project.

Happy New Year Steve and I hope the cordwinder photos helped to understand the terminal block bypass option.

Jon

Post# 437053 , Reply# 82   1/2/2021 at 23:31 (1,199 days old) by Jo (Dallas,TX)        
Screws for the terminal block bypass

 Those acres are just sheet metal acres so the bite into the plastic and that’s it if I recall correctly so you have to make the hole no larger than the shaft of the screw so the threads can bite in to the plastic without coming loose over time.

If I recall correctly, we didn’t have to pull off the terminal block altogether, if you cut off the wrap over brass from the cordwinder body it will render the terminal block useless if you disconnect its wiring which I assume is your plan here. This is basically the way the newer models were set up, the wiring going forward to the switch and motor just plugs onto the cordwinders slip on terminals which is basically the same as in my photos, the new covers just don’t have the part that sticks out for the terminal block.

In theory you could get an cordwinder cover from a later model and it will solve both issues as it will have the slide on terminals and of course you won’t have to deal with gluing that hose port.

Jon

Post# 437194 , Reply# 83   1/8/2021 at 17:09 (1,193 days old) by Aprules2 (New Jersey)        

Im in northern NJ too, I just bought a Golden Jubilee from my local Electrolux Aerus dealer this morning. If you need a good dealer who can help with old parts, call the Hillsdale location. The owner Ed has been there for 50 years. He got me new brushes for my B8 and serviced and polised the Golden J as they call it before selling it to me. He has tons of old stuff.

Post# 437213 , Reply# 84   1/9/2021 at 08:42 (1,193 days old) by sekess (US)        

Hey Aprules2,
Thanks. I'll give him a shot.
So far, I have called 2 places without luck. The most recent guy was a little crazy. I can deal with crazy if he was helpful. But, he really wasn't.

Thanks again,
Steve



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