Thread Number: 40766  /  Tag: Recent Vacuum Cleaners from past 20 years
Electrolux Nimble model E8605 start up issues
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Post# 433135   10/6/2020 at 03:40 (1,269 days old) by Zinda (Peoria)        

Now I know Electrolux has been leader in the industry for many decades, I myself swear by their 3 head polishers for just about any type of wet scrubbing, they just simply work well and seem to last forever!

More recent designs of vacuums have brought a very different type of product, one that would make anyone scratch their head and wonder just what the heck was the engineer who designed this thinking!?! I'm not just talking about 1 or 2 models either, there has been a parade of mishaps and what the ..... coming out of their factories for some time now. Enough that Electrolux has eliminated any evidence that they ever made any vacuums from their website.

I got it with a typical batch of 10 or so vacuums that needed attention in some way, my first guess was it had a bad switching valve that is sticking and the cord was cut off when someone tossed it in the trash. I get a lot of cut cords, so far I've never found any reason for it since a good cleaning and a new cord got them working like new.

After I struggled to get it apart without breaking the case too much, I knew it wasn't going to come apart like a normal vacuum based on my past experiences with other ultramodern futuristic gimmicky designs that were made like large remote control cases. Made to snap together easily but not so much meant to be taken apart, ever!

I took it completely apart, cleaned gobs of stuff from the brushroller assembly belt and motor as well as bearings. Cleared a clog in the hose that was 1 foot long by shoving a wand connected to an older yellow Eureka! Bagless that I just repaired and in one big thumping thud, it cleared out that clog! It also made the Eureka choke a bit, kind of slowed down for a second then back up to speed again. I swear by some of those early Eureka bagless vacs, they had great suction and huge hoses more like a shark now.

Ok, so it's all cleaned, I took each part and washed it by hand with soap and water. Hand dry after shaking them off, the laying them in 110+ degree direct sunlight on my concrete driveway for a few hours. I have been known to take a water hose and run it full blast in every single passageway and even the motor case on older models that smell bad, leave them in the sun then flip them and after 10 hours baking, plug them in and every one has worked without any problems. This one was in pieces careful not to soak down the electronics boards. I blew air into the motor and noticed an unusual amount of fibers and lint in the impeller. Air wasn't getting it out so I had to remove the cover and blow it out again. Replaced the cover lubed up the bushings or bearings, hard to tell which it had but the motor was spinning freely. A quick test with 120 volts and it was working like new again. A new cord and then the struggle to reassemble began. Terrible design, things are held in place simply by the force of the front and back panels squeezing them, but still has wires and tubes that cross over parts a few times.

Its back together after a 3 hour cleaning session, I plug it in and it's working, not very strong suction but I know from the past not to expect much at all from these models. Once again terrible design, when I cover the hose end to test suction I could hear a major air leak from the canister backside. Thinking it was the seal I took a look at the fit, it was ok, the other seal on the air leaving the canister or dirt cup was starting to get sucked into the opening. I glued it back in place and tested again. Same leaking noise when I put my hand over the nozzel and not very strong suction. Removed the canister and put my hand over the motor inlet and had excellent suction. So I remembered seeing 2 tubes inside that had to do with lighting some warning lights for clogging diagnostics. One for dirty filter and the other for elsewhere. I plugged up the hole between the canister and the hole in the case that measured the static pressure of the filter to see if that the leak i was hearing. Nope still heard a huge leak and had low suction. I left it running while I poked around at the lid of the canister, put it on then lifted away slowly, blah blah blah. After about 10 minutes without seeing any other possible air leak I just gave up and shut it off, I figured I'd just sell it like that since it seams to be working as designed, no lights were on and it had suction at the hose and base (for now).

I put the canister back in place and wound up the cord. I figured I'd check 1 more time before I wheeled it inside since it was getting dark. I hit the on switch and the motor bumped like it was starting but then stopped, again, again, nothing, the brush switch light came on and so does the light below it while pressing the on switch, if I hold the brush switch the motor will try to spin up repeatedly but always stops and retries. It seems like there's a capacitor that's getting it bumped but the main power isn't taking over once its spinning?

I can't understand why it was working fine for 10 cycles on and off, then never again. I thought it may have been hot from the sun and it running for those short 10 minutes, put it inside and it still does the same thing the next day.

Anyone at all ever have to deal with something like this? I know this vacuum is a POS but I can't let it kick my butt, it's such a complete fight to take apart I'm dreading it and figured I'd ask some pros about this before I do another tear down. I had another motor from another vacuum maker in my hands at one point and was very tempted to just replace it, but I cleaned it and tested it, it sounded quiet and spun fast so I kept using it. Maybe a mistake, could it really be a weird motor issue? I'm most certainly doubting it since these are such basic motors, but I'm not passing on a bad temp sensor since it's basically strapped right inside the motors windings. Really don't want another 3 hour tear down to replace the motor as I should have done originally.


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Post# 433176 , Reply# 1   10/6/2020 at 23:09 (1,268 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Well if you say it is attempting to start the motor, and you can hear the motor beginning to move at that time, I'm sure the motor is fine. At least mostly fine. For whatever reason, the computer is seeing something it doesn't like on start up and keeps retrying, as you said. It is probably a fault directly related to the motor, though. If it was a bad temp sensor (I would imagine), the motor would likely never start, just stay off. Likewise for most other switches and sensors. There's no reason for a programmer to tell the machine to attempt a startup for only a second or so while an input is reporting 'no-go.' Of course, the only way you'd know that for certain would be to ask the programmer! Still, it is unlikely.

It's more likely that only when the motor is drawing current, something changes. There could be a weak / high resistance connection to the motor, or whatever powers it might not be able to hold the connection. Especially if it's powered by a solid state component that's taking a dump. There could be a weak connection at the power cord, even. When the motor turns on it could draw enough current to drag the line voltage down so low that the computer turns off, turning off the motor, which raises line voltage back up, so it tries to start again.

And I wouldn't rule out bad electronic components on the control board. Even if you didn't get them wet, apparently you left an old, well worn computer out in the sun for several hours. Wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if that did it in.

Things like that. All speculation, but I hope I gave you some ideas.


Post# 433229 , Reply# 2   10/8/2020 at 10:58 (1,267 days old) by MATTINLA (Burbank)        
Why bother?

I also repair espresso machines - some with similar repair problems and design - some are just NOT meant to be serviced, impossible to open up and get to parts(if you can even get them) like NESPRESSO - sealed units that cannot be serviced and if you try, it's a cure that's worse than the disease, a joke. The sad reality is that the throw-away appliance age is here to stay and only accelerates. My philosophy in such cases is WHY BOTHER? Why stress yourself trying to service appliances that are clearly THROW-AWAY when broken, NOT MEANT TO BE SERVICED? "After I struggled to get it apart without breaking the case too much" I SAY STOP RIGHT THERE, toss /recycle the useless poorly made piece of junk, and go have a nice cup of coffee.

Post# 433290 , Reply# 3   10/9/2020 at 18:59 (1,265 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
Just because something is designed not to be fixed, doesn't mean it can't. Furthermore, every company does things differently. All you have to do is know how to open it, repair it, and reassemble. They do it to stop people from tampering with it.

"Why bother" is a defeatist attitude many people here do not have. Also mostly all of us don't have money to keep throwing stuff away. People will pay $700 for a new Miele upright, then as soon as it clogs, they throw it out. The lack of practical knowledge is why this keeps happening and why landfills keeps flooding over.

The fan in my 6 year old, $1,900 convection oven died this past spring. Lowes (where I bought it) would not fix it because the warranty was out. I called an appliance technician from an appliance store. They would not fix it because they said it was not possible. Wasted $150 on a service call.

I downloaded the service manual for free, watched a quick general video on YouTube for a different brand of oven, and got the parts I needed on eBay for $60. Fixed it in an evening. Had to take half the oven apart to access the fans.



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