Thread Number: 40270  /  Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
1972 Kirby Classic 1CR - Extra Insulation Test
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Post# 427689   6/25/2020 at 22:56 (1,398 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        

kirbyclassiciii's profile picture
Here is the first phase of my experiment with adding extra insulation to my 1972 Kirby Classic 1CR's motor unit.

This picture shows the first thing I did: I took the black brush lead wire (110973) and insulation tubing (111573) from my Tradition's foot switch, installed it on the top carbon brush holder (107276), then I added the cover (107185) and tucked the insulation over that.

~Ben


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Post# 427699 , Reply# 1   6/26/2020 at 02:37 (1,398 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Are you trying to double insulate it? Or is this the one where the wire insulation is falling apart?

Post# 427700 , Reply# 2   6/26/2020 at 02:40 (1,398 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        
MadMan

kirbyclassiciii's profile picture
Yes, I do intend to double-insulate it.

What you see here is a test unit, this being the original motor housing casting that was taken out of my machine in favor of the one that I got from Rob (texaskirbyguy) that had better bearings.

~Ben


Post# 427720 , Reply# 3   6/26/2020 at 14:18 (1,398 days old) by kirby519 (Wisconsin)        

Since the Kirby Classic Omega model. All the Kirby models already have double insulation right from the factory.

Post# 427736 , Reply# 4   6/26/2020 at 21:38 (1,397 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Double insulation is kind of a formality. I suppose you can look at it as redundancy. Regular commercially available sleeving or heat shrink tubing would do the job just fine... in case you run out of Kirby OEM stuff.

Post# 427738 , Reply# 5   6/26/2020 at 21:40 (1,397 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        
MadMan

kirbyclassiciii's profile picture
That is what I would intend on doing, buying stuff like this locally (same as with obtaining screws). Most of these are 1/8" diameter by 3" long.

It's also simple what color tubing is used where: black on black wires, white on white wires, clear on all other color wires (green, red, orange, etc.).

It would be redundant on any machine with a three-wire cord set, though (including the American Lincoln Super-Sweep, Super-Vac 180 and the Kirby COMVAC 1300 and 1600).

~Ben


Post# 427739 , Reply# 6   6/26/2020 at 21:59 (1,397 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
I noticed

lesinutah's profile picture
When I got 2 classic omegas and 513 and 525 from Rob. The carbon brush cap tucks into the insulation. I never noticed it before.
Kirby insulation has always been black on d50 and newer. The older I think 516 to sanitronic 7 were insulated wires going to safety switch. 3c,4c 505-515 the wires were in conduit and black L brackets on some models.
I may be wrong on insulation color and tradition I'm remembering white or clear not exactly sure. I remember I cut all the wires and I had to reinstall all the cut wires.
The insulation around the motor housing the foam stuff that flakes off. They had wire shield gasket things for top of the coil to ensure wires didn't get clipped by the armature fan.
Ben what outcome are you trying to achieve?
If you ensure adequate ground wires anaybe install extra ground wires could harness potentially some lost power.
Les


Post# 427740 , Reply# 7   6/26/2020 at 22:19 (1,397 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        
LesinUtah

kirbyclassiciii's profile picture
Les,

I am trying to reduce dust buildup inside the motor, which is what models Classic Omega and later already achieved.

On the Omega and later motors that are double insulated, it is already known what color tubings to use over which wires. As I said before:

The black tubing (111573) goes on the short black lead wire (110973) that runs between the top carbon brush assembly and the foot switch.

The short clear tubing (111473) goes on the short green lead wire (104369) that runs between the field coil and the bottom carbon brush assembly.

You are correct that these tubings for the carbon brush wires must be tucked over the tubular part of the carbon brush covers (107173 or 107185) to ensure a secure fit and protection from dust.

The white tubing (111773 or 124586) goes on the white wire running from the field coil to the foot switch.

For models 516 to D50, the sole insulation tube 109356, also 3" long, was used on the main field coil wires; the headlight socket wire had its own insulated tubing included. The D80 was the first machine to also use insulated tubing for the speed switch wires (109467) and is placed over them in the slotted area (where the toe-touch control is) connecting the fan case with the motor housing. If you take a look at the first picture I uploaded here, which is how the motor wiring for the 516 (and models 517 and 518 as well) is set up, it would be almost similar for models 513 to 515, except for the different safety switch and headlight socket.

Here are pictures of the schematics for the various machines you inquire about, and a picture of my 1979 Tradition's motor wiring setup. When looking at this last picture, you can see clear tubing over all the non-neutral-colored wires.

~Ben


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This post was last edited 06/26/2020 at 23:40
Post# 427917 , Reply# 8   6/29/2020 at 22:42 (1,394 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        
The Mission Continues...

kirbyclassiciii's profile picture
Here now is a picture of my continuing mission to double insulate the Classic 1CR's motor... this picture shows the foot switch (110566), the white wire that goes to the motor, with the insulation tubing (111773) over it.

~Ben


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