Thread Number: 40215
/ Tag: Small Appliances
Anybody Know About Lubricating Stuck Fans? It’s a Weird One. |
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Post# 426975 , Reply# 5   6/15/2020 at 02:30 (1,382 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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If the bearings are sintered bronze bearings, I would not soak them in any solvent, as they will absorb it like a sponge. Although, if they are indeed sintered bronze, being NOS, they should still have good oil in them, and really should not have failed. Perhaps all they need is a little oil to get them started.
Ideally, identifying the bearing type should be first. It's unlikely they're ball bearings. So that leaves either plain bronze or sintered bronze. Plain will appear uniform in color and texture, sintered looks more like damascus. The other giveaway will be a plain bearing must have a hole through it to let oil onto the shaft. Sintered bearings will have no such hole, as they are porous and the oil is meant to flow through them. |
Post# 426984 , Reply# 6   6/15/2020 at 08:23 (1,382 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )   |   | |
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They’re the porous bronze. Sintered, I guess. |
Post# 426985 , Reply# 7   6/15/2020 at 08:26 (1,382 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )   |   | |
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Here’s the manual, in case anyone is ever interested. I’m sure someone someday will be excited to find this. |
Post# 427067 , Reply# 8   6/16/2020 at 17:25 (1,380 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )   |   | |
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I found this when I pulled out the motor- It’s from the 50s, but it’s been capped. I wonder if I should use this, or 3-in-1, or "Liquid Bearing" synthetic oil. Thoughts, anyone? |
Post# 427071 , Reply# 9   6/16/2020 at 19:05 (1,380 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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Post# 427107 , Reply# 12   6/17/2020 at 03:12 (1,380 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Post# 427161 , Reply# 18   6/18/2020 at 02:15 (1,379 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Thoughts about the bearing score marks. First, they are probably minor enough not to be of any consequence. As long as there is no radial play, it's fine. I replaced my friend's attic fan today and I remembered something. The bearing was probably scratched when you pulled the shaft out through the bearing. It's likely the set screw mark or some other defect on the pulley side of the shaft is raised and gouged out the bearing when you pulled it out. Make sure to file down any imperfections that could gouge the bearing, before pulling out the shaft.
As for the oiling, just wipe off the inside of the bearing, coat it and the shaft with regular motor oil, and drip some in the oil holes, and hope for the best. You'd probably have to run the fan for several hours, if not days, before you would know for sure if it will be ok. The harder option is to re-oil the bearings. But realistically, it would be easier simply to replace the bearing entirely, as you'd need to press it out of the holder anyway. And yes, a press would be ideal, though I suppose you could use a big vise to press the bearing out. A new bearing could be had at some hardware stores or on McMaster or Grainger. |
Post# 427193 , Reply# 19   6/18/2020 at 15:11 (1,378 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )   |   | |
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That’s certainly what did it. The marks are even in shapes that would be left according to how I remember twisting the shaft out, and they’re in the top, where the screw is. Not sure how I missed that. 🥴 |
Post# 427213 , Reply# 20   6/18/2020 at 18:51 (1,378 days old) by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)   |   | |
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Are these used for soaking up oil and supplying it to the bearings or the shaft, or are they used as soft washers for spacing, kind of like packing. Hope I made sense,thanks! |
Post# 427250 , Reply# 22   6/18/2020 at 23:38 (1,378 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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...or you can just heat the bearing until it weeps all its oil out. Then submerge it in oil, in a vacuum chamber, until it stops bubbling. But like I was saying, that'd be a lot of work when a new bearing is almost certainly available.
Felt washers - I have seen some motors use soft felt washers as thrust washers. I suppose the idea is that instead of adjusting the thrust play, they just use a thick squishy felt washer to compensate. |
Post# 427264 , Reply# 26   6/19/2020 at 09:56 (1,378 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)   |   | |
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Wait - in picture 3, are those screws hidden under the gunk? |
Post# 427266 , Reply# 28   6/19/2020 at 10:11 (1,378 days old) by OldSuck (Houston, Texas )   |   | |
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Nope. Just 3 brass rivets. |
Post# 427437 , Reply# 29   6/20/2020 at 21:02 (1,376 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Christmas tree lights plugs are like that, however, they are designed as a pass-through, not to have a take-off for interrupting the circuit. Cannot find an equivalent on McMaster. The other option would be to simply have one cord with a plug, and add a second cord with a socket.
Also, the rivets look like they still have the pins in them. Normally, you need to punch those through first, then drill, but who knows if there is room behind them to punch them through. |
Post# 427478 , Reply# 30   6/21/2020 at 18:29 (1,375 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Was looking for meters in my junk, and found this. The plug looks 100% identical to yours. But it has 2 screws holding it together. The 3 visible rivets only hold on the prongs, so drilling them would be a moot point. Yours actually has screws, I can see them in the picture. They're so filthy and rusted that they're camouflaged.
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Post# 427479 , Reply# 31   6/21/2020 at 18:32 (1,375 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Forgot to mention, the wires are soldered into those 3 rivets.
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Post# 427501 , Reply# 33   6/22/2020 at 00:46 (1,375 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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Guys c'mon the cord end is crap. If you have wire cutters I'll keep it some.
Males have plug outside the other is female. Cut the plug off. Strip about a half inch of the cord plastic. This leaves you with what you attach to the plug shown. Here is another idea. If you have a lamp with an online switch or you can get one at a thrift store for a dollar. Scrap the whole wire and use the lamp in place of this shoddy plug. I don't know why everyone is telling you how to take apart the plug. Just thought I'd suggest an easier alternative. Les
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Post# 427555 , Reply# 35   6/23/2020 at 01:26 (1,374 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Post# 427671 , Reply# 37   6/25/2020 at 18:09 (1,371 days old) by Oreck_XL (Brooklyn, New York 11211)   |   | |
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We use this miracle lubricant at work. It frees up sewing machines that have been bound up for years! If this can't free it up, it CAN'T be done.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO Oreck_XL's LINK |
Post# 427824 , Reply# 39   6/28/2020 at 19:07 (1,368 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Post# 427896 , Reply# 42   6/29/2020 at 19:15 (1,367 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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WD-40 on electrical connections I'm not so sure about that.
The electrical cleaner for car batteries and electrical is all I'd use on cleaning the electrical. Wear a mask people. If your out clean your hands and never rub your eyes that's how it spreads. You don't want to get sick it's miserable as hell. Be safe and you don't have to worry. Les |
Post# 428123 , Reply# 45   7/4/2020 at 02:57 (1,363 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Fantastic work!
The motor looks very similar to the Delco motor in my Kenmore wringer washer. That's got solid bronze sleeve bearings with big oil felts that directly oil the shaft. It doesn't really have oil ports, you have to take it apart to oil it. Strangely, one of the bearings was missing most of the oil felt on mine. Not sure why, didn't look like it had been opened before. |
Post# 428135 , Reply# 48   7/4/2020 at 10:45 (1,363 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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Post# 428158 , Reply# 50   7/4/2020 at 20:54 (1,362 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Post# 428672 , Reply# 51   7/16/2020 at 10:01 (1,351 days old) by gottahaveahoove (Pittston, Pennsylvania, 18640)   |   | |
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