Thread Number: 39933  /  Tag: 80s/90s Vacuum Cleaners
VacuMaid Central Vacuum Inlet Valve Mounting Bracket 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 423901   4/21/2020 at 20:07 (1,458 days old) by mmcphee (Lisbon Falls, Maine)        

mmcphee's profile picture
Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to get some group knowledge. I got a VacuMaid Central Vacuum Inlet Valve and the mounting holes do not line up to mount onto the standard plastic central vacuum inlet valve mounting bracket. I was wondering if anyone might know of where to find the correct mounting plate so I can use it.

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Post# 423904 , Reply# 1   4/21/2020 at 20:31 (1,458 days old) by vacman1961 (North Babylon, New York)        

That is not a Vacu Maid inlet, Vacu Maid inlets are have full rectangular doors on them. This valve is from an old Flo Lite, or a very early VacuFlo, or possibly a Vacu Magic. There is no mounting brackets that are currently sold that will work with this. If you want a retro look, use original VacuMaid inlets, they are metal and look retro.

Post# 423907 , Reply# 2   4/21/2020 at 20:38 (1,458 days old) by Compactelectra (Palm Springs)        
Best Retro Inlets

 compactelectra's profile picture
From MD Manufacturing. I have the ones in bronze. Remind me of vintage Filtex inlets and work with current low voltage hoses.

builtinvacuum.com/parts/all/outl...

Post# 423911 , Reply# 3   4/21/2020 at 20:43 (1,458 days old) by vacman1961 (North Babylon, New York)        

This is a VacuMaid valve.

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Post# 423912 , Reply# 4   4/21/2020 at 20:46 (1,458 days old) by vacman1961 (North Babylon, New York)        

Those MD inlets are cheap replacement valves, they used to be manufactured by Beam and were a universal valve. The Original VacuMaid valve is quality. I personally like original VacuFlo valves, thats what I have installed in my home.

Post# 423918 , Reply# 5   4/21/2020 at 21:06 (1,458 days old) by gregvacs28 (U.S.)        

Go with something FULL door. It's easier to insert and remove the hose.

Side hinge is best that way the door doesn't obscure the view and you're less likely to cut your fingers on plastic.

Also SUPER valves with the 120 volt will make easy connection for powering power nozzles.

They're only about $20 each.

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Post# 423925 , Reply# 6   4/21/2020 at 21:39 (1,458 days old) by Compactelectra (Palm Springs)        
Vacman1961

 compactelectra's profile picture
Not sure why you say the valves from MD are cheap. I have had them in 2 homes now and find them solid and functional. And at $40 a crack I wouldn’t say they are cheap. I find the quality excellent.

Post# 423936 , Reply# 7   4/21/2020 at 23:16 (1,458 days old) by vacman1961 (North Babylon, New York)        

I am so sorry for saying they are cheap, we all have our preferences in what we like. They have been a standard of the industry for many years being used as mostly a universal type valve. The metal Beam style valves are better than their plastic counterpart. I have been in the floor care business for over 40 years and my store was located right outside of 2 of the most prestigious areas on Long Island and the systems that we installed and serviced mostly had inlet valves manufactured by the makers of the machines. The inlet valve that you posted was prone to problems such as the rubber seal and washer would fall off because of the button that was molded on the door would break off, also after many years of use the balls where the hose makes contact would wear down or actually some would come loose and slide down. The mounting plate most of the time was plastic with no rubber seal. All of the inlets made by VacuFlo, VacuMaid, Black and Decker and Nutone had some sort of seal either on the mounting plate or the valve itself to make a tight seal, the rubber gasket on the door is either riveted on or some kind of clip that prevents it from falling off. In th elate 60's and early 70's there was a Pullman dealer out here that installed Pullman units, Pullman did not have their own inlet valves and they used these metal valves, they worked for many years, unfortunately when servicers had to replace them they used the plastic version because of the cost. My cost for the bronze metal Beam valves is $19.95 verses the white plastic version cost me $2.79. So most servicers opt for the higher profit and install the plastic version which doesn't hold up as well.

Post# 423951 , Reply# 8   4/22/2020 at 02:37 (1,458 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
The screw hole spacing almost looks like a standard electrical box. Is there something besides mounting that comes with the plate you want? Otherwise, you could just finagle a 1 gang electrical box. If the spacing is not the same... finagle something else :P

Post# 423982 , Reply# 9   4/22/2020 at 17:57 (1,457 days old) by vackid (Pennsylvania)        
Early VacuMaid

 Hello,

Regarding whether or not this is a VacuMaid valve, I'm 99% certain that it is. These photos are from a late 60s home here in Pittsburgh (Where Ed Lindsay hails from) and had an original P245 unit (uses a Robinson Myers motor. Think Early Hoovers) and 4 of these inlets throughout this home. These super early units didn't use cyclonic action like the later VacuMaids, instead they had a spinning separator much like a Rexair. This unit's motor had been repaired numerous times by the original purchaser before the home was sold and the new owner's had us install a bagged VacuMaid to replace this unit.

The photo posted of the stainless steel VacuMaid valve was their later iteration of their own inlet, which is still made today in various finishes. Although I do like the appearance of these inlets, they have the largest footprint (Not great from a non-cv aficionado stand point) and because of their all-metal construction, if you opt for the pin-jack version, the metal body is prone to shorting the system and causing it to run if the wire is even slightly out from underneath the contact screw.

Regarding installing this inlet, you may want to just take a standard mounting plate and drill new holes in the plastic where they would line up. Thankfully mounting plates are cheap and if you ruin one, you can always try it with something else. Late last year I updated an entire home of these old VacuMaid inlets with new VacuValves (homeowners wanted on/off control) and although we did so without cutting out the mounting bracket, the screws definitely went in at an upwards angle to speed nuts that lined up perfectly with the old VacuMaid inlets.

Fred: I definitely agree with you about the durability of the metal valves on your system. They do hold up beautifully and some people love the metallic finishes available to make them really stand out in homes. I have always been a fan of "pin-jack" inlets, as VacuMaid refers to them, as I find them to be much more reliable and give you the ability of using a hose with a switch in it. I've been called out to service several VacuMaid systems that had their ball stuck (I hate when that happens) in the switch, causing the system to run continuously. I don't know if it's more annoying for me to go out to the home for a pointless service call or for the homeowner to have to pay for a pointless service call. As you mentioned, they are very expensive, and although some like their conspicuous appearance, many people want their inlets to just disappear into the wall so we tend to use VacuValves which just look like an electrical outlet blank when they're closed.

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Post# 423994 , Reply# 10   4/22/2020 at 20:27 (1,457 days old) by Compactelectra (Palm Springs)        
Vackid

 compactelectra's profile picture
I agree about the durability of these inlets. I had 12 of them in my system in Chicago for 15 years used by housekeepers and never had a problem. What I like is that they remind me of the vintage Filtex inlets without the buttons and lights. And once you get used to the low voltage switch on the end of the hose, you’ll never go back.

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Post# 424036 , Reply# 11   4/23/2020 at 07:31 (1,457 days old) by mmcphee (Lisbon Falls, Maine)        
Vackid

 mmcphee's profile picture
Thank you for your comments on the inlet. Before I can even get to installing it, I have to solder a wire onto it for the low voltage. When I received the inlet, It had no wires on it at all. I managed to get the wire for the pin jack from an automotive lightbulb holder that I bought at NAPA and it works perfectly. I tried to solder the wire onto the neck but I couldn't get it to work since it was my very first attempt at soldering anything and I burned my finger in the process. I had an idea about using a metal mounting plate and maybe that will work.

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Post# 424890 , Reply# 12   5/5/2020 at 11:02 (1,444 days old) by centralvacs1928 (Chicagoland)        

Matt, I hope you have been able to find a plate that will work with your inlet. Mine in my workshop (microswitch version but same mounting holes) is screwed to a standard metal mounting plate like you have pictured, and the screws do go in at an angle, but it works. Thicker wall construction makes it easier (more distance between the mounting plate and the inlet).

This thread inspired me to video my different varieties of Vacu-Maid inlets, and also show a couple of early Vacuflo inlet styles. I did not have a Vacuflo Lexan inlet handy for this video, but hopefully you'll forgive the omission...





-Owen

Post# 424911 , Reply# 13   5/5/2020 at 17:36 (1,444 days old) by mmcphee (Lisbon Falls, Maine)        
Owen

 mmcphee's profile picture
Since I actually have the Lexan inlet hooked up to my Model 26, I will certainly forgive the omission! I did get some screws for my inlet and they do go in at an angle but it should work. I had my local vacuum repair shop solder the wire on (didn't want to burn my finger again) so it should hopefully work.

Do you happen to know what style of inlet would have been installed when the Model 26 was for sale?

Matt


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