Thread Number: 3969
My Windsor/SSS Versamatic Has arrived with some problems |
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Post# 45404   7/1/2008 at 19:43 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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Well This is it. It came in today and i put a plug in it and the vacuum motor is ok,but the power nozzle will not come on. can someone tell me how i can fix this. |
Post# 45406 , Reply# 2   7/1/2008 at 19:58 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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And when i turn the brush roll the Power Nozzle Motor Squeaks...is that Normal |
Post# 45412 , Reply# 3   7/1/2008 at 21:13 (5,770 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)   |   | |
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Well, the inside of that nozzle is caked with crudmeaning it has sucked up some wet sludge and it dried there. Looks like you have a Power Nozzle makeover project. First you gotta check it isn't the belt rubber doing the squeeking on a frozen motor axle. Then ya have to remove the brush roll and check the bearings for accumulated treads/hair/impacted dustbunnies. Once you have the brush roll spinning freely in it's bearings then you have to thoroughly test out and diagnose the motor. You didn't say if the brush motor is turning freely. 1. does the armature turn easily by hand? - shot of machine oil. 2. does the armature turn sluggishly? - shot of rust penetrating oil and turn by hand for a while till it spins. 3 does the armature turn and wobble in its bearings? Bearings shot. 4. is the armature frozen in place and will not turn? Shots of penetrating rust oil, use vice grips on axle to force the armature to turn. Repeat repeat repeat until the armature spins. Take the motor apart and Emory paper/steel wool the shafts. 2/3/4 (or something that got jammed in the brushroll once causing it to stop) will cause the failsafe breaker to trip allowing no electricity to flow to the motor until the reset button is pushed. It could very well be a loose connection to the circuit breaker. Yeah, that nozzle is filthy and no doubt some of that liquid crud entered all sorts of places it shouldn't oughta...like all along the suction path into the bag. |
Post# 45414 , Reply# 4   7/1/2008 at 21:19 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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I cant seem to find the reset button and the armature turns free,but squeaks. and how do u check for a connection to the breaker. |
Post# 45415 , Reply# 5   7/1/2008 at 21:19 (5,770 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 45422 , Reply# 7   7/1/2008 at 22:28 (5,770 days old) by lux1521 ()   |   | |
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Does this machine have a power nozzle shut off switch? I have a feeling it could be a simple switch problem. |
Post# 45424 , Reply# 9   7/1/2008 at 22:44 (5,770 days old) by lux1521 ()   |   | |
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I think with a motor transplant the geared belt will become an issue. Just a thought. |
Post# 45427 , Reply# 12   7/1/2008 at 23:07 (5,770 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)   |   | |
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Have you direct-wired the motor to a 120VAC source yet? You know, bypass the breaker circuitry. Never mind the ground wire for now - it's there to prevent shocks when vacuuming in the bathtub.:-) I'm asking if the motor runs? The squeaking would be a simple dry bearing, probably a bronze bushing? That's easy to cure with armature grease after a thorough motor dis-assembly and clean. Can anyone tell us what the circuit board is for? Speed control? Or feedback circuit for the breaker? But if you do the motor swap all ya need to do is get the ground wire attached somehow to the motor case metal. Yes, I know it's probably a plastic cased motor but somewhere in there will be metal supports or a bracket supporting the bearing...or cap the ground wire off and stay out of the shower with it. :-) |
Post# 45428 , Reply# 13   7/1/2008 at 23:12 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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Ok....let me take some pics of the motor im deling with |
Post# 45429 , Reply# 14   7/1/2008 at 23:19 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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Heres the Neck & motor and board |
Post# 45430 , Reply# 15   7/1/2008 at 23:23 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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and heres the motor i want to replace it with |
Post# 45431 , Reply# 16   7/1/2008 at 23:26 (5,770 days old) by cleaningbuff (Quincy, IL)   |   | |
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Post# 45433 , Reply# 18   7/1/2008 at 23:35 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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Well i cant direcly wire the motor...cause theres all kinds of wires going form the motor to the pc board and idk which ones to choose....i ant never seen a vacuum this complecated |
Post# 45434 , Reply# 19   7/1/2008 at 23:38 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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btw i appreciate u guys helping me |
Post# 45437 , Reply# 21   7/1/2008 at 23:53 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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I hate to say it,but we might have to go with the motor Transplant,unless someone can come up with somthing else...cause im honestly out of ideas |
Post# 45446 , Reply# 24   7/2/2008 at 00:53 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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Thanks....that power head is almost identical except the connection on the neck is Differnt.....But its darn Close |
Post# 45469 , Reply# 28   7/2/2008 at 09:00 (5,769 days old) by clarkecombi ()   |   | |
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If i get a electrical tester how do i test the power nozzle motor and the nozzle neck and the plug on the bottom of the machine |
Post# 45471 , Reply# 29   7/2/2008 at 09:36 (5,769 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)   |   | |
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Sure looks to me that those two blue wires take a torturous path around & through the nozzle...and have spade ends that plug in to blades where the neck meets the vacuum body. Those power blade will be wired in parallel to the fan motor. "I know it ant in the vacuum cause i touched one of the prongs that plug into the nozzle at the bottom of the vacuum and i got zapped." There's yer answer then... If the neck is worn then those blue wires could easily be stretched too far or be flexed one too many times and break the wire inside the blue insulation. It's also possible that the spade/wire crimp is corroded. You've got to test each length of wiring run between connection points all the way from brush motor, to fan motor, to switch in the handle to isolate where the break occurs. Work backwards. With the vacuum unplugged from the wall, please. A simple circuit tester is a battery and a flashlight bulb and two bare leads. One of them plastic pocket flashlights you can take apart and attach leads to the switch contacts. Touch the leads to both ends of the wire run and the bulb should light up, indicating that section of wiring is good. Move on to the next run. and so on...until the bulb doesn't light up. Bingo! |
Post# 45476 , Reply# 31   7/2/2008 at 10:15 (5,769 days old) by collector2 (Moose Jaw, Sk)   |   | |
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Hi: Yes that is a Sebo Powernozzle. The circuit board automatically adjusts the speed of the motor (speeding it up when it gets into thicker carpet). The ground wire does not have to be connected for the motor to run. The circuit testor that Dave describes above would be your best bet. When you have a chance I would recommend investing in a multimeter (you can usually find them for around $10-$15). They are well worth it in a case like this. Doug |
Post# 45492 , Reply# 33   7/2/2008 at 14:26 (5,769 days old) by bisonian (Where the buffalo roamed! (Ocala, FL))   |   | |
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David, There should be a microswitch in the cleaner body where the hose goes in. Pull the hose out for above-floor cleaning, the brush motor shuts off. It's possible this switch could have gone bad, or it could just be loose. Worth a look. Rick C. |