Thread Number: 3969
My Windsor/SSS Versamatic Has arrived with some problems
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Post# 45404   7/1/2008 at 19:43 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

Well This is it. It came in today and i put a plug in it and the vacuum motor is ok,but the power nozzle will not come on. can someone tell me how i can fix this.

Post# 45405 , Reply# 1   7/1/2008 at 19:47 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        
Heres somthing i noticed.

The little light that lights up when something is stopping the brush roll is loose and only one wire is secure...can this little light be the cause of the Power Nozzle or is it a Bad Connection?

Post# 45406 , Reply# 2   7/1/2008 at 19:58 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

And when i turn the brush roll the Power Nozzle Motor Squeaks...is that Normal

Post# 45412 , Reply# 3   7/1/2008 at 21:13 (5,770 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)        

aeoliandave's profile picture
Well, the inside of that nozzle is caked with crudmeaning it has sucked up some wet sludge and it dried there. Looks like you have a Power Nozzle makeover project.

First you gotta check it isn't the belt rubber doing the squeeking on a frozen motor axle. Then ya have to remove the brush roll and check the bearings for accumulated treads/hair/impacted dustbunnies. Once you have the brush roll spinning freely in it's bearings then you have to thoroughly test out and diagnose the motor. You didn't say if the brush motor is turning freely.

1. does the armature turn easily by hand? - shot of machine oil.

2. does the armature turn sluggishly? - shot of rust penetrating oil and turn by hand for a while till it spins.

3 does the armature turn and wobble in its bearings? Bearings shot.

4. is the armature frozen in place and will not turn? Shots of penetrating rust oil, use vice grips on axle to force the armature to turn. Repeat repeat repeat until the armature spins. Take the motor apart and Emory paper/steel wool the shafts.

2/3/4 (or something that got jammed in the brushroll once causing it to stop) will cause the failsafe breaker to trip allowing no electricity to flow to the motor until the reset button is pushed. It could very well be a loose connection to the circuit breaker.

Yeah, that nozzle is filthy and no doubt some of that liquid crud entered all sorts of places it shouldn't oughta...like all along the suction path into the bag.



Post# 45414 , Reply# 4   7/1/2008 at 21:19 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

I cant seem to find the reset button and the armature turns free,but squeaks. and how do u check for a connection to the breaker.

Post# 45415 , Reply# 5   7/1/2008 at 21:19 (5,770 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)        
Yikes - a circuit board exdosed inside a vacuum cleaner nozz

aeoliandave's profile picture
David, you probably already went through all this.

Got a circuit tester? That's how to track down a loose connection.


Post# 45417 , Reply# 6   7/1/2008 at 21:33 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

no i dont...if someone had a nozzle motor and the nozzle neck id but it off of them or give them a vacuum for it....IDK if i can get this power nozzle to work..I know it ant in the vacuum cause i touched one of the prongs that plug into the nozzle at the bottom of the vacuum and i got zapped...so its the power nozzle motor

Post# 45422 , Reply# 7   7/1/2008 at 22:28 (5,770 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Does this machine have a power nozzle shut off switch? I have a feeling it could be a simple switch problem.

Post# 45423 , Reply# 8   7/1/2008 at 22:43 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

Nope..I wish it did...it would solve the problem....im thinkin about transplanting the nozzle motor off of my dirt devil Mvp ultra in it...its the same size,except i would have to directly wire it to the nozzle neck and theres three wires..2 electrical and 1 ground and the motor off of the dirt devil has 2 wires running from its motor if only i could ground it out..ill take some pics to show what i mean

Post# 45424 , Reply# 9   7/1/2008 at 22:44 (5,770 days old) by lux1521 ()        

I think with a motor transplant the geared belt will become an issue. Just a thought.

Post# 45425 , Reply# 10   7/1/2008 at 22:54 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

But an elite belt is just as long as a windsor belt and its smooth...im jsut saying i could make it work,but thats my last option...i wonder if there i sa way to directly wire the windsor nozzle motor to the neck instead of having the wires go through that stupid Pc Board...i wonder if that board is the issue..

Post# 45426 , Reply# 11   7/1/2008 at 22:59 (5,770 days old) by lux1521 ()        

".i wonder if there i sa way to directly wire the windsor nozzle motor to the neck instead of having the wires go through that stupid Pc Board...i wonder if that board is the issue"

I think this is your best bet, but I still think there might be a way to get it to work properly with no major modifications.

Could you do me a favor and take a wide view picture of the insides of the power nozzle. A pic of the PN neck could also be helpful. Once I get a better idea of what is going on in there I think I could help you better.


Post# 45427 , Reply# 12   7/1/2008 at 23:07 (5,770 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)        
Don't give up on it until you've exhausted the possi

aeoliandave's profile picture
Have you direct-wired the motor to a 120VAC source yet? You know, bypass the breaker circuitry. Never mind the ground wire for now - it's there to prevent shocks when vacuuming in the bathtub.:-)

I'm asking if the motor runs? The squeaking would be a simple dry bearing, probably a bronze bushing? That's easy to cure with armature grease after a thorough motor dis-assembly and clean.

Can anyone tell us what the circuit board is for? Speed control? Or feedback circuit for the breaker?

But if you do the motor swap all ya need to do is get the ground wire attached somehow to the motor case metal. Yes, I know it's probably a plastic cased motor but somewhere in there will be metal supports or a bracket supporting the bearing...or cap the ground wire off and stay out of the shower with it. :-)


Post# 45428 , Reply# 13   7/1/2008 at 23:12 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

Ok....let me take some pics of the motor im deling with

Post# 45429 , Reply# 14   7/1/2008 at 23:19 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

Heres the Neck & motor and board

Post# 45430 , Reply# 15   7/1/2008 at 23:23 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

and heres the motor i want to replace it with

Post# 45431 , Reply# 16   7/1/2008 at 23:26 (5,770 days old) by cleaningbuff (Quincy, IL)        
p n motor not working

cleaningbuff's profile picture
Dave
Check the hose that goes from the nozzle to the bag, there is a switch in the lower hose duct where u pull it out from the nozzle, this is designed to stop the brush roll when you use the hose for edge cleaning and such.
hope this helps
Robert


Post# 45432 , Reply# 17   7/1/2008 at 23:27 (5,770 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Ok, the first thing I would do is what dave suggested. Direct wire the motor to a 120V AC source. Basicly take the 2 power wires and use wire nuts to connect them to a cord. If the motor runs you can rule this part out.

The circut board and neck would then be the next suspects. Testing those is quite a bit more difficult and I would only try it with test equipment.


Post# 45433 , Reply# 18   7/1/2008 at 23:35 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

Well i cant direcly wire the motor...cause theres all kinds of wires going form the motor to the pc board and idk which ones to choose....i ant never seen a vacuum this complecated

Post# 45434 , Reply# 19   7/1/2008 at 23:38 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

btw i appreciate u guys helping me

Post# 45436 , Reply# 20   7/1/2008 at 23:50 (5,770 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Well, I'm feeling a bit stumped at the moment. It seems like parts for this cleaner are hard to find, and what I have found seems to be very expensive. Too bad really because this could be a really good vacuum. I wish I could be of more assistance.

Post# 45437 , Reply# 21   7/1/2008 at 23:53 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

I hate to say it,but we might have to go with the motor Transplant,unless someone can come up with somthing else...cause im honestly out of ideas

Post# 45441 , Reply# 22   7/2/2008 at 00:16 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

Ive Figured out how to Wire the damn thing Direct....Take the 2 blue wires and disconnect the other blue and brown wires and attach them together then take the the green one and put it on the ground Bingo its wired...see i thought the white wires were part of the pc board but hey go from the carbon Brushes to the armature wiring so there ya go if this doesnt work nothing will

Post# 45444 , Reply# 23   7/2/2008 at 00:42 (5,770 days old) by elux89 ()        

I swear this is a SEBO ET-C powerhead. Go to www.sebo-vacuums.com... Go to their Air belt C canister, look for the link for the ET-C powerhead, it will show the operators manual. Don't know if it will be any help, but take a peak.

Vernon


Post# 45446 , Reply# 24   7/2/2008 at 00:53 (5,770 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

Thanks....that power head is almost identical except the connection on the neck is Differnt.....But its darn Close

Post# 45449 , Reply# 25   7/2/2008 at 06:49 (5,769 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

Well it ant the motor its the nozzle neck....i directly wired a motor that i KNOW works and it wouldnt come on...so therefore its the problem in the neck...one of the wires is bad...any thoughts on what to do? does the ground wire have to be connected for it to come on?

Post# 45450 , Reply# 26   7/2/2008 at 07:17 (5,769 days old) by lux1521 ()        

I'd try to disasemble the nozzle neck and put new wires in it. I think the bending of the nozzle neck must have caused a break in one of the wires. I think if you rewire the nozzle neck, you can put the thing back together using all of the original parts.

If rewiring is not possible, then I'd look for a replacement.


Post# 45452 , Reply# 27   7/2/2008 at 07:43 (5,769 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

I found this on ebay guides apparently the VSM had the single swivl neck and whne they lean foward real bad(like mine) u have connection problems the newer ones have extra support.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO clarkecombi's LINK on eBay


Post# 45469 , Reply# 28   7/2/2008 at 09:00 (5,769 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

If i get a electrical tester how do i test the power nozzle motor and the nozzle neck and the plug on the bottom of the machine


Post# 45471 , Reply# 29   7/2/2008 at 09:36 (5,769 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)        
I'm suspecting the blue nozzle wires.

aeoliandave's profile picture
Sure looks to me that those two blue wires take a torturous path around & through the nozzle...and have spade ends that plug in to blades where the neck meets the vacuum body. Those power blade will be wired in parallel to the fan motor.

"I know it ant in the vacuum cause i touched one of the prongs that plug into the nozzle at the bottom of the vacuum and i got zapped." There's yer answer then...

If the neck is worn then those blue wires could easily be stretched too far or be flexed one too many times and break the wire inside the blue insulation. It's also possible that the spade/wire crimp is corroded.

You've got to test each length of wiring run between connection points all the way from brush motor, to fan motor, to switch in the handle to isolate where the break occurs. Work backwards. With the vacuum unplugged from the wall, please.

A simple circuit tester is a battery and a flashlight bulb and two bare leads. One of them plastic pocket flashlights you can take apart and attach leads to the switch contacts. Touch the leads to both ends of the wire run and the bulb should light up, indicating that section of wiring is good. Move on to the next run. and so on...until the bulb doesn't light up. Bingo!


Post# 45472 , Reply# 30   7/2/2008 at 09:44 (5,769 days old) by elux89 ()        

Have you gone to www.windsorind.com... They might have a dealer near by, or a tech department that could offer some advice. Give them a call

Post# 45476 , Reply# 31   7/2/2008 at 10:15 (5,769 days old) by collector2 (Moose Jaw, Sk)        

collector2's profile picture
Hi:

Yes that is a Sebo Powernozzle. The circuit board automatically adjusts the speed of the motor (speeding it up when it gets into thicker carpet).

The ground wire does not have to be connected for the motor to run.

The circuit testor that Dave describes above would be your best bet. When you have a chance I would recommend investing in a multimeter (you can usually find them for around $10-$15). They are well worth it in a case like this.

Doug


Post# 45487 , Reply# 32   7/2/2008 at 13:11 (5,769 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

well i fixed it.....i directly wired the brush roll motor to a cord and now its got 2 big 50ft cords on it instead of 1...its a Windsorstien....lol...it works good..the problem was in the nozzle neck and i didnt wanna fool with it..it works good although the power nozzle was vibrating alot so i looked and its got a busing gone off of it that when it turns it vibarates inside the brush roll slots...can anyone tell me how i can fix this

Post# 45492 , Reply# 33   7/2/2008 at 14:26 (5,769 days old) by bisonian (Where the buffalo roamed! (Ocala, FL))        
A bit late, but this might help ...

David,

There should be a microswitch in the cleaner body where the hose goes in. Pull the hose out for above-floor cleaning, the brush motor shuts off. It's possible this switch could have gone bad, or it could just be loose. Worth a look.

Rick C.


Post# 45501 , Reply# 34   7/2/2008 at 16:36 (5,769 days old) by clarkecombi ()        

i done checked it and its ok.theres no loose connection...its good the way it is,but that dang power nozzle is vibrating bad...theres something missing that kept the brush roll ends from jumping around in their slots.


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