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Thread Number: 39681
/ Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Kirby Front Bearing Plate (516-1CR) - Dealing with Stuck Screws |
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Post# 421004 3/3/2020 at 18:57 (1,513 days old) by KirbyClassicIII  (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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My Dad continued his attempts to get the three remaining screws out from the front bearing plate on my Classic 1CR, to no avail. So, first thing he did was Dremel the heads off, then he will have to drill through the rest of the screws to remove them.
Have any of you experienced this before while repairing the front bearing plate group on models 516 to 1CR, and what tips would you recommend so this does not happen again? ~Ben | ||
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Post# 421007 , Reply# 2 3/3/2020 at 19:34 (1,513 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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texaskirbyguy | ||
| Post# 421021 , Reply# 3 3/3/2020 at 22:20 (1,512 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
Umm 
Grind off screw heads. You could drill into screw slight smaller than the screw. Put tape on drill bit. You just want top of the screws are below bearing plate. It doesn't matter which method.
You pull up on shaft of armature. The bearing plate is no longer holding plate on. You just have to pop the seal. You can use a screwdriver pop bearing plate up. Use a rubber mallet as metal would ruin bearing plate. Once said item is removed vice grips to unthread the rest of the screws. This happened to me six months ago. I just used a grinder cut top of the head of the screw do it's flush with top of bearing plate. I used a set tool put over screws push set down while pulling armature up. Les | ||
| Post# 421026 , Reply# 4 3/3/2020 at 22:38 (1,512 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana) | ||
Only drill the screws out as a last resort.
Make sure the screw and nut are clean and free of dirt first. You will need a screwdriver with the proper bit, usually a wide bit, and one that lets you get a good amount of torque behind it. Soak the screw in penetrating oil first, may take half an hour or so. Gently rock the screwdriver while unscrewing the screw forward and backward in short movements to try and break it loose. If that fails, get a mallet and whack the screwdriver onto the screw head a couple times to see if the shock will break the rust free and try again. Never use power tools of any kind on vacuum cleaners because there is too much risk at damaging the screw or the screw post by over torquing the screw if it is plastic chassis with plastic screw posts or an aluminum cast screw that cannot take any hard amount of torque. I've never had to drill out a screw yet, just need patience. Also when working on antique vacuums with a unique screw thread to the time that is virtually extinct, care must be taken not to damage the screw or the screw shaft itself either. | ||
| Post# 421029 , Reply# 5 3/3/2020 at 22:43 (1,512 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Ya | ||
| Post# 421031 , Reply# 6 3/3/2020 at 22:45 (1,512 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA) | ||
DO NOT DRILL!
If you cut the heads off the screws, they are no longer holding anything together. Separate the two pieces, then you should have enough of the screws sticking out to grab with vise grips. Do not attempt to unscrew them at first, instead, wiggle the vise grips back and forth VERY slightly until you feel the screw give and start turning. Even after that, you make have to turn it out and in then a little more out and keep repeating until it's out... depending on how stuck they are. If the screws are hopelessly stuck, use fire. Be very cautious, though, aluminum doesn't let you know it's about to melt until it melts. | ||
| Post# 421034 , Reply# 7 3/3/2020 at 22:50 (1,512 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Yes | ||
| Post# 421046 , Reply# 8 3/4/2020 at 08:19 (1,512 days old) by dandagreer (Nashville, TN) | ||
Here's what I did
After I stripped out the Phillips head, I soaked each one in WD-40. Then took a Dremel with a cutting wheel and cut a slot in the screw head to receive a wide slot bit, fairly deep so it has some bite. Then took an impact driver, start slow and let it hammer a bit without slipping, and it came right out.
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