Kirby Classic 1CR - Extra Insulation?

From 515 up through tradition not positive on heritage was insulation.
515 to sanittonic 7 (this is from the top of my head) two L strips of sticky adhesive is what it probably was. It kind of looks like 5ape and on it was insulation. Most the time you can see the sticky residue. The classic I have had all the foam on it. The thin aluminum plate to damper sound they were next to it. If you knew this I apologize.
If you are asking if anyone had put insulation in housing I'll answer. I did put like foam insulation in d80. It had small piece fall off and get between carbon brushless. I caught it but I haven't put anything since.
If I could ensure it wouldn't move I would use it. The 515-sanitronic 7 would be the easiest. I mention these models because there single speed. There is a lot less wires. I unhook speed switch on these models on the switch. This way I can pull it out not cutting any wires. I can also easily slide switch back on reconnecting it.
With those aluminum sound dampers you can tell Kirby made an effort to quiet them. The amodel fan is probably best insulation. The fan is metal and conducts heat and being metal it can have electricity travel through it. The amodel heat, non conductive to electricity and alot quieter.
Les


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Post# 420742 2/27/2020 at 16:43 (1,512 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)
Checkrate/Likes Have any of you who worked on a Kirby D50, D80 or Classic 1CR tried to put any extra insulation (109467, 111973) on the wiring going between the speed switch (134365) and the field (103967, 103969)? That is, have any of you tried to see if these two extra insulating tubes I mention even fit inside the slotted area from fan case to motor housing? I ask again because the four wires going between the speed switch and the field on my 1972 Classic 1CR look worn out enough (cracked primary insulation) to be replaced, but that I cannot do this until I have the four new red, white, green and yellow wires for it. ~Ben Photos... < > Photo 1 of 11 View Full Size

Post# 420743 , Reply# 1 2/27/2020 at 18:27 (1,512 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)
Checkrate/Likes *Ben* From 515 up through tradition not positive on heritage was insulation. 515 to sanittonic 7 (this is from the top of my head) two L strips of sticky adhesive is what it probably was. It kind of looks like 5ape and on it was insulation. Most the time you can see the sticky residue. The classic I have had all the foam on it. The thin aluminum plate to damper sound they were next to it. If you knew this I apologize. If you are asking if anyone had put insulation in housing I'll answer. I did put like foam insulation in d80. It had small piece fall off and get between carbon brushless. I caught it but I haven't put anything since. If I could ensure it wouldn't move I would use it. The 515-sanitronic 7 would be the easiest. I mention these models because there single speed. There is a lot less wires. I unhook speed switch on these models on the switch. This way I can pull it out not cutting any wires. I can also easily slide switch back on reconnecting it. With those aluminum sound dampers you can tell Kirby made an effort to quiet them. The amodel fan is probably best insulation. The fan is metal and conducts heat and being metal it can have electricity travel through it. The amodel heat, non conductive to electricity and alot quieter. Les

Post# 420745 , Reply# 2 2/27/2020 at 18:54 (1,512 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)
Checkrate/Likes Les, I think he is referring to insulation on the wiring. But good description of the foam stuff (that is always gone or almost gone). I have always reinstalled the aluminum plates but never the foam - not sure how much good it would do. Ben, You could try thin heat-shrink tubing on those wires to get some extra life from them. There may just be room for it on all wires in the slot. I have plenty of 1CR parts units with good motors if you need one for new wires, just pay shipping.

Post# 420746 , Reply# 3 2/27/2020 at 18:59 (1,512 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)
Checkrate/Likes *texaskirbyguy* Rob, I will let you know if it ever comes to that... thank you! ~Ben

Post# 420747 , Reply# 4 2/27/2020 at 19:08 (1,512 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)
Checkrate/Likes *LesinUtah* Les, Here is the official parts breakdown for the Classic 1CR, if you ever need to see it again as to what I am referring to. ~Ben View Full Size

Post# 420749 , Reply# 5 2/27/2020 at 20:25 (1,512 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)
Checkrate/Likes *Ben* I only seen 4 pages as phones a pile. If you want to insulate the wires black 3m electrical tape. If you put over bare wires or any wires use a heat gun. It is basically heat shrink and I feel it insilates wires almost as good as kirbys original harness. Les

Post# 420757 , Reply# 6 2/27/2020 at 21:47 (1,512 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)
Checkrate/Likes If you really can't be bothered to buy some wire and rewire it, heatshrink tubing should work. You'll need to buy it in a roll or long lengths, otherwise the stuff you find at home depot is in precut pieces maybe 1.5 inches long. I do believe you can find color coded heatshrink, probably in those colors if you really wanted to. You could also buy either clear to see the color through it, or white and mark on it with paint or sharpie the colors.

Post# 420760 , Reply# 7 2/27/2020 at 22:28 (1,512 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)
Checkrate/Likes *Link* I mentioned a wire connector that is all in one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/283484175378... CLICK HERE TO GO TO Lesinutah's LINK on eBay

Post# 423056 , Reply# 8 4/9/2020 at 00:48 (1,471 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)
Checkrate/Likes *LesinUtah* Les, I read that if you heat-shrink the insulation tubing that it will fit in the slot better; heat shrinking each of the individual wires (when frayed) for the speed switch will also help rejuvenate them. This is advice ChicagoMike gave me. ~Ben