Thread Number: 38334
/ Tag: 80s/90s Vacuum Cleaners
Royal 882 - Need quick advice |
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Post# 407942 , Reply# 1   4/11/2019 at 21:21 (1,833 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Well...
If it has oil ports, it's probably using sintered bronze bearings, which are porous and come with oil soaked into them. There is probably a felt wicking around (which is what you oil) and they capillary the oil out of the felt as they go along. They *may* be available commercially, but I personally don't know. New bearings would be a good idea if it appears that nobody oiled them, which you'd have to disassemble it and check how dry the felts are. From my personal experiments, sintered bronze bearings don't just re-absorb oil if they've been run to the point where the felt oil wicking is dry. They need to be put in a vacuum chamber while submersed in oil to refill them, which isn't difficult if you have the equipment. The brushes, like any brushes, are available as generic ones, and probably even as model-specific ones. I can't imagine you'll have any issue coming up with some kind of replacements. |
Post# 407955 , Reply# 2   4/12/2019 at 03:09 (1,833 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)   |   | |
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Post# 407961 , Reply# 4   4/12/2019 at 13:04 (1,833 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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The 882 is like every other royal since 1978. The bearings are odd. I have a few called old oilers where an oil port is right behind the fan. It has a felt washer in them. You can't find them anywhere. I took the felt out and loaded it with grease. I'm not putting another piece of felt in it.
I could pop rivets off and take copper bearing housing off and put a new bearing in it's place. I imagine jb weld would hold it to bearing plate. I cleaned the one out really good and packed great compact in as I have a tool I got at parts store that packs grease. It actually fixed my issue. Royals have the oil ports on the back of the motor housing base of armature sits in. I just clean and great those. The oiler port behind bearing you either cut out oiler bearing or repack bearing. I'm not a fan of doing either. I'd rather put new bearing plate with bearing in it. I guess taking housing off and putting new bearing on is same idea. I have 4 royals with these ports and I'm going to just clean bearing and regrease them. I don't want to ruin original part and greasing it is going to yield the best results. I'm not a fan at all of design as it's flawed. As for royals there actually very user friendly. The 5.4 motor is commercial motor. It's very close to my 880s and they are not loud and clean well. Once you get the hang of it the royals are very very simple to work on. I could disassemble clean polish put back together in 2 hours. There is no Kirby that can be done that fast. Dude look at Craigslist and thrift stores for royals. I paid $200 for my 880 and you won't find a nicer royal out there. The only ones worth over $100 are royal Everlast. The motors range from 7.5-10 amps and are a little loud. Other than that just stick to local finds for royals. There cheap easy to work on and clean up. Fixing one up you learn quite a bit. They are suprisingly easy to learn. I take 4 screws holding front motor and nozzle on. You clean fan chamber and nozzle out. You take off fan clean bearing plate uo. Take bearing plate off and get all the shredded fabric out of motor housing. You can vacuum out or just blow out. Grease bearings. This point you can polish and put back together. The only 2 things is wiring take pictures of it. The other is when you pop off aluminum covers for carbon brushes gentle with the black plastic. Other than that nothing else. The vacuum is very easy to work on. Les |
Post# 407968 , Reply# 6   4/12/2019 at 14:26 (1,833 days old) by broomvac (N/A)   |   | |
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Post# 407971 , Reply# 7   4/12/2019 at 15:28 (1,833 days old) by 97widerider (Indiana)   |   | |
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True so true. I'm sure part of the reason is that people don't vacuum near as much as they probably should. Can't say I have ever had a vacuum motor die on me. |
Post# 407972 , Reply# 8   4/12/2019 at 15:36 (1,833 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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I'd not worry about the 4000. It should have 2 oil ports just grease those. I may put mine together tonight I just need to find my spindle.
Ya I have bought quite a few royals at thrift store. I bought a mid 90s for $35 has 50 ft. Cord and type b bag assembly. I got a burgundy early 90s 6 amp for $15, I got 1949 royal for $20. Paid shipping on mid 20s royal bought 880 on eBay for $75 it was made month and year I was born. The 4000 I got for $60 shipping included on eBay. I got a 1977 3 amp on eBay for $60. I had a 1030z I got from my work for free I cleaned up and sold to Blackheart. That is upright he got highest cfm and vaclabs avalir just surpassed it. The 1040z I took apart polished up and sold. I didn't ask much but I got it for free. I believe I bought a new brush roll. The bearings I just greased ports and he said it was quieter than expected. If my royals make noise small amount of WD 40 behind fan usually fixes that. The royal you have has drop in motor and no other royals motors are like it. They are all similar to 882. Very simple design and quick repair polish and repair. Don't pay alot for royals. I only got 4000 low ball offer and Motor is biggest I have seen. I should put it together. It is flawless and I got scratches off with steel wool. It's in mint condition and motor is freaking huge. Ya thrift or Craigslist you can find super cheap. It's not often but it happens. Les |
Post# 407995 , Reply# 10   4/12/2019 at 21:18 (1,832 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)   |   | |
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Husky, yes but in concept only. Putting oil into a ball bearing just seems like you're desperate. And using a vacuum cleaner in place of an actual vacuum pump is... not right, for many reasons lol. Also the dude sounds Finnish. Just a guess.
97widerider - don't let it scare you. It's an old-fashioned machine. Its mechanical design is from a time when it was expected that any middle class office worker would be able to take it apart with a screwdriver and a crescent wrench on a Sunday afternoon. Les - you've been greasing sintered bronze bearings? You know that'll plug up the pores of the metal and render them useless? I mean, if you greased around the shaft, it'll work for a while until it spins the grease out. |
Post# 407999 , Reply# 11   4/12/2019 at 23:41 (1,832 days old) by broomvac (N/A)   |   | |
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Post# 408000 , Reply# 12   4/12/2019 at 23:42 (1,832 days old) by broomvac (N/A)   |   | |
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Post# 408011 , Reply# 13   4/13/2019 at 09:42 (1,832 days old) by sptyks (Skowhegan, Maine)   |   | |
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Post# 408013 , Reply# 14   4/13/2019 at 11:45 (1,832 days old) by 97widerider (Indiana)   |   | |
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Hey Stan are all these drop in models the same motor? |
Post# 408026 , Reply# 15   4/13/2019 at 16:11 (1,832 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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The 4000 isn't a drop in motor. Royal commercial vacuum cleaners have a line of vacuums with drop in motors. The royal catalog I posted I believe it was the 5.4 amp motor. You swap motors being a commercial line vacuum. If you bought a drop in motor it would be smaller than 10.5 amp motor. The motor would be just like 4000 having all components for easy replacement. The royal drop in motors ranges the 5.4 up to 10 amp and everyone in between. It's just a convenient time saving for commercial customers to repair vacuum as quick as possible.
Each vacuum model has a few motors it can take. My 3 amp I can't stuff a 10 amp motor in it probably a 5.4 would be the biggest. Madmen no I grease bearings correctly. I have two copper oiler tops I ordered the last 2 for them. I lubricate with correct grease oil etc. I know what to use on bearings as my brain isn't on same page as my mouth at times. The vacuums are done correctly and my head was up my arse. Long work week blah. Les |
Post# 408078 , Reply# 16   4/14/2019 at 11:01 (1,831 days old) by sptyks (Skowhegan, Maine)   |   | |
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Post# 408085 , Reply# 19   4/14/2019 at 17:36 (1,831 days old) by 97widerider (Indiana)   |   | |
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Yes so let’s stay tuned... |
Post# 408107 , Reply# 20   4/14/2019 at 21:29 (1,830 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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The drop in motors doesn't have chrome carbon brush caps. Our 4000 is a commercial drop in motor vacuum. The motor yo mine is original motor since date code matches model plate but a this line of vacuums are serviceable. I found my royal example of drop in motor 5.0 amp. The vacuum looks like the Duke model I believe. Anyways the pictures if you look will explain drop in motor.
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Post# 408111 , Reply# 21   4/14/2019 at 21:58 (1,830 days old) by broomvac (N/A)   |   | |
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Royal "drop-in" motors are, indeed, self-contained units. When you purchase a drop in motor, it includes the commutator, stator, both bearings, cooling fan, carbon brush assemblies, and more all in one package. For a "drop-in" motor replacement, the old motor simply emerges from the rear housing (the housing that looks like a space alien helmet) whole and the new one slides in its place. Essentially re-attach the wires and the suction fan, and you're good to go!
Non-drop in motors are not like this. I've never taken apart one of this type, so I don't know the exact procedure, but it is my understanding that components such as the rear bearing, brush holders, and stator are each independently fastened to the rear housing. You can tell these motor types apart by looking at the rear housing. "Drop-in" type Royals have no externally accessible carbon brushes and no oiling ports. In contrast, non "drop-in" motors do have these features. The "drop-in" motors have sealed, maintenance-free ball bearings supporting both ends of the armature, whereas the other kind of motor has a sealed, maintenance-free ball bearing supporting the fan side and a sintered sleeve bearing at the other. The sleeve bearing requires occasional oiling with a non-detergent oil and thus has an oiling port with a red cap. If I recall correctly, some of the oldest Royal motors may even have sleeve bearings supporting both ends and therefore have two oiling ports: one at the rear and one under the handle bail. |
Post# 408114 , Reply# 22   4/14/2019 at 23:34 (1,830 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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Post# 408116 , Reply# 23   4/15/2019 at 00:34 (1,830 days old) by kirbyklekter (Concord,Ca.)   |   | |
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I'll be watching for your comparison between the 5.4amp motor and the 10.5amp motor in their cleaning ability. Thank you Les and broomvac for sharing your knowledge, as always, I learned a lot! |
Post# 408127 , Reply# 24   4/15/2019 at 10:33 (1,830 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)   |   | |
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Post# 408222 , Reply# 25   4/16/2019 at 22:32 (1,828 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)   |   | |
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i figured they did change it. I knew they had drop in motors in late 90's and im pretty sure the commercial line with 5.4 had drop in motor. The vacuum i have is only drop in motor with no carbon brush and no oil ports. I know that the model i have wasnt the norm. It may be now but no way its fully enclosed motor.
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