Royal Metal Upright model 883 questions

**I'm going by what I see in that fan replacement video**

If the fan is just stuck to the shaft you have a couple of options. The first I would try is repeatedly soaking it with PBlaster over several days. If at all possible, get it in such a position that you can have it partially submerged in a bath of the stuff to allow it to soak up into the where it's stuck on the shaft. After several days of soaking it may be more cooperative. I should also mention that in some cases, all the penetrating oil in the world won't loosen stuff like this, so it may come down to using the next option.

Heat. Heating aluminum is very tricky, because unlike steel, it doesn't glow when it's hot enough, it'll just melt. To be fair, if heating with a small propane torch, getting it to melting point is not as quick as with oxy-acetelyne (like I'd be using). Of course, the goal would be to heat the area of the fan blade surrounding the motor shaft. And if you did happen to melt a bit of it, it wouldn't be the end of the world.

With either avenue, get two large flat blade screwdrivers and wedge each between the blade and the motor case on opposite sides of the blade, and very gently lever both evenly to pry the fan off. If you get movement, you may also try prying each side individually just enough to get the tiny bit of movement out of it, and repeat on the opposite side, and keep doing that till it's all the way off. I would pry in such a way that that you're levering against the motor housing, and the blades of the screwdrivers are against the back of the blade, and ensure the screwdriver blades are evenly behind a fin of the fan blade, as that will be the strongest area.

Another option for pulling it off would be to get two pieces of 1/8" thick (or the max size that fits between the blade and the motor) flat steel or angle irons, place them on either side of the blade between the blade and motor, and with the fan blade facing up, suspend the motor by the irons on blocks or something, with a short distance between the motor and the floor, with something soft between them. Then, screw the belt shaft back onto the motor shaft, leaving it about 3 turns loose. Hammer the belt shaft straight down with firm strikes. At some point, you'll have to remove the belt shaft, and hammer the motor shaft directly, perhaps with a punch or similar.

Now, doing any of this is part of my daily routine, I could do it with my eyes closed. But needless to say, it's advanced stuff, attempt at your own risk, etc, etc. If you take your time and use care, you can do it.


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Post# 404361 1/21/2019 at 01:18 (1,921 days old) by superocd (PNW US)
Checkrate/Likes Do Royal metal uprights have any kind of seal between the front of the motor body and the fancase? I've taken my 883 apart for cleaning and I see no evidence of a seal whatsoever, rubber or compound. It's just the fancase mated to the motor assembly with nothing in between. I will say that there is a round rubber seal between the floor nozzle and the front of the fancase. I added air duct sealant between the two right around the outside of the rubber seal just to ensure a good seal. Shall I put a bead of air duct sealant around the lip of the fancase to seal that surface against the face of the motor (which is cut very close by the fan)? Or is it OK as-is? Also, I notice that there is a red plug for the oil port on the back right side of the motor. How do I remove this plug to add oil and how much of it do I put in? I've done some sleuthing and heard that 3-in-1 oil is what these vacuums use. Is that correct? One more thing: how do I remove the fan? I want to clean the surface behind it and soak the actual fan in dish detergent. I have removed the belt shaft but can't seem to get the fan off. Does it screw onto the armature shaft or does it sit freely onto the armature shaft? I have tried stopping the armature from turning with a screwdriver inserted between the blades of the internal cooling fan but the suction fan would not budge and I didn't want to risk damaging the cooling fan or motor by applying any undue pressure. Thoughts?

Post# 404363 , Reply# 1 1/21/2019 at 01:49 (1,921 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)
Checkrate/Likes I don't know what the local knowledge says about sealing the fancase. Honestly, I'm not familiar with duct sealant, but I'd say a thin smear of silicone couldn't hurt anything, so if it's similar, then that'd be fine. 3 in 1 oil would be fine, or just like a 30w oil or similar, it's just plain bearings, they're not picky. Not sure about the fan.

Post# 404364 , Reply# 2 1/21/2019 at 02:03 (1,921 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)
Checkrate/Likes *Hey* The video shows fan removal. I oil it for a couple seconds. When you turn on and slowly add more if it runs quieter your good on oil. You can seal fan chamber but if you maintain royal you will be removing seal. Royals leave Kirby cakes. IDs just built up quite often. I that's my logic and your not going to have much difference with it or without it Les CLICK HERE TO GO TO Lesinutah's LINK

Post# 404365 , Reply# 3 1/21/2019 at 02:03 (1,921 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)
Checkrate/Likes 1 superocd: Your 883 should have a nozzle sealing gasket (1-285427-000) and may also have two spacers placed between the nozzle and fan case (1-602105-000 and 1-606105-000, thick and thin respectively). And as I said before about the oil to use, use only SAE 30 (medium grade) motor oil. Let me guess: does your 883 have the six-blade metal fan and the external strain relief with the metal spring (where the motor switch is)??? If so, you would have a 1989-built machine. Les: Here is another way to paste the link you've described (simply copy/paste it in your post): ~Ben Photos... < > Photo 1 of 2 View Full Size This post was last edited 01/21/2019 at 02:37

Post# 404399 , Reply# 4 1/22/2019 at 00:54 (1,920 days old) by superocd (PNW US)
Checkrate/Likes Sure enough, the fan is six blades and the tension relief is a metal spring. Speaking of the fan, I took a look at the video and followed that process step by step yet the fan does not want to come off. This was after aiming some P'blaster penetrating lubricant onto onto the hub to help loosen it up. I'm only wanting to take it off just to clean behind it but I do think that now's a better time to get it off than later just in case something happens to the fan or motor later on and it has to come off. Also, as far as the oil goes, how do I remove that cap so I can add the SAE 30 oil? I've tried searching for this procedure but cannot find anything. I'll be honest: when I first saw this vacuum at the thrift store, I thought that it was some kind of plastic widget or piece from a toy wedged up in there. This is my first time ever touching a Royal. One more thing: has anybody ever sent in damaged trim pieces to 3D printing specialists? The baby blue trim around the headlight cap is worn through and the metal edges of the cap are exposed. I'd like to replace it.

Post# 404400 , Reply# 5 1/22/2019 at 00:59 (1,920 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)
Checkrate/Likes *superocd* Here is another teardown video for you... and as to removing the oil cap, I could suggest using a slotted screwdriver there, too. As to removing the fan, it is spun on in reverse, meaning to get it off it must be unscrewed clockwise. And here's a new metal fan specific to your machine (part no. 1-620004-000) if ever you have to buy one... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Royal-Metal-Upr... ~Ben

Post# 404401 , Reply# 6 1/22/2019 at 02:14 (1,920 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)
Checkrate/Likes *Hey* The fan if you can wedge something small between bearing plate and fan to raise up spray in area of the center fan. Just doing the fan after spraying pb blaster. Fan side down spin fan getting oil into where it needs to be. I'd say 3 times. If it's not like v Let sit for an hour and try again this should work. 3d modeling is blocky and for plastic. I got a black Kirby 505 wheel done it's a POS. Get SEM paint and order Kirby trim. Paint it . It's not exact buy painted it should come out pretty similar and look good. Just search Kirby trim paint in search bar. I have done to trim and it stays in. Les

Post# 404404 , Reply# 7 1/22/2019 at 02:58 (1,920 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)
Checkrate/Likes I'm going by what I see in that fan replacement video If the fan is just stuck to the shaft you have a couple of options. The first I would try is repeatedly soaking it with PBlaster over several days. If at all possible, get it in such a position that you can have it partially submerged in a bath of the stuff to allow it to soak up into the where it's stuck on the shaft. After several days of soaking it may be more cooperative. I should also mention that in some cases, all the penetrating oil in the world won't loosen stuff like this, so it may come down to using the next option. Heat. Heating aluminum is very tricky, because unlike steel, it doesn't glow when it's hot enough, it'll just melt. To be fair, if heating with a small propane torch, getting it to melting point is not as quick as with oxy-acetelyne (like I'd be using). Of course, the goal would be to heat the area of the fan blade surrounding the motor shaft. And if you did happen to melt a bit of it, it wouldn't be the end of the world. With either avenue, get two large flat blade screwdrivers and wedge each between the blade and the motor case on opposite sides of the blade, and very gently lever both evenly to pry the fan off. If you get movement, you may also try prying each side individually just enough to get the tiny bit of movement out of it, and repeat on the opposite side, and keep doing that till it's all the way off. I would pry in such a way that that you're levering against the motor housing, and the blades of the screwdrivers are against the back of the blade, and ensure the screwdriver blades are evenly behind a fin of the fan blade, as that will be the strongest area. Another option for pulling it off would be to get two pieces of 1/8" thick (or the max size that fits between the blade and the motor) flat steel or angle irons, place them on either side of the blade between the blade and motor, and with the fan blade facing up, suspend the motor by the irons on blocks or something, with a short distance between the motor and the floor, with something soft between them. Then, screw the belt shaft back onto the motor shaft, leaving it about 3 turns loose. Hammer the belt shaft straight down with firm strikes. At some point, you'll have to remove the belt shaft, and hammer the motor shaft directly, perhaps with a punch or similar. Now, doing any of this is part of my daily routine, I could do it with my eyes closed. But needless to say, it's advanced stuff, attempt at your own risk, etc, etc. If you take your time and use care, you can do it.

Post# 404414 , Reply# 8 1/22/2019 at 13:18 (1,919 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)
Checkrate/Likes *Hey* I don't remember exactly what chemical but coca cola and I believe lime juice. They eat rust. Long story short coca cola put in and left dissolves rust. I believe it was American restoration TV show out of Vegas. It ate rust and loosened buildup and fan would come loose. I kept doing what I mentioned for 2 days. The pry spray twist. I got it off surprisingly easy. It will come off. Paitence. Wax on wax off. Spray blow dry spray blow dry repeat. Les