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Thread Number: 37123
/ Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Royal help |
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| Post# 396571 8/10/2018 at 16:47 (2,078 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Post# 396573 , Reply# 1 8/10/2018 at 17:49 (2,078 days old) by KirbyClassicIII  (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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Lesinutah
Les,
Yes, the carbon brush parts are similar for both. CARBON BRUSH ASSEMBLY: same for both models. Breakdown of parts: 1-000334-000 carbon brush assembly (most recent replacement: 1-672021-000) 1-080103-000 carbon brush holder screw assembly (most recent replacement: 1-672103-000) 1-801019-000 carbon brush holder 1-801034-000 carbon brush holder protector cap 3-672105-000 is complete carbon brush assembly containing all above parts. WARNING: Carbon brush/spring no. 1-672021-000 is only recommended for use with brush holder screw no. 1-672103-000. When replacing the carbon brushes on a pre-1990 machine, the old-style carbon brush holder screws (1-080103-000) must be discarded and replaced with those of the newer style (1-672103-000) or you might burn up the motor when using your cleaner. FAN: 1-608004-000 (1/4" shaft hole) for model 880 series D, reverse-thread screw-on type 1-620004-000 (5/16" shaft hole) for model 8000 (to series D), reverse-thread screw-on type 1-608005-000 for model 8000 (series E), slip-on type ARMATURE: 1-880001-000 for model 880 series D & E (4.5 amp) 1-620001-000 for model 8000 (to series D) (6 amp; screw-on fan) 1-680001-000 for model 8000 (series E) (6 amp; slip-on fan) May I ask you what are the model and serial numbers for your model 8000, please? If it was made after February 1990, it would be a series E (as in serial number: B90018418E) and have a 9-blade slip-on fan. ~Ben This post was last edited 08/10/2018 at 19:57 | ||
| Post# 396625 , Reply# 2 8/11/2018 at 17:16 (2,077 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Hey
I don't know what happened to the posts. K89D002945
I posted earlier but let's try it again. Les Thanks again Ben for the hel
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Post# 396626 , Reply# 3 8/11/2018 at 17:23 (2,077 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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Lesinutah
Les,
You're welcome! Your model 8000 was built in November 1989 per its serial number, so it would indeed share the same group of carbon brush parts as your 1982 model 880. Again, while the six-blade impeller fan might look the same for both your Royals, the shaft hole sizes are not, owing to the different armatures. I repeat: The fan your 4.5 amp 880 uses has a 1/4" dia. shaft hole (for armature 1-880001-000) whereas your 8000's fan has a 5/16" dia. shaft hole (for armature 1-620001-000). ~Ben | ||
| Post# 396638 , Reply# 4 8/11/2018 at 23:40 (2,077 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Thanks Hey Ya I notice different shaft diameter on your post. I got royal all put together. I seem to have same issues the wires came loose so I need to rewire. My 880 I had wired but I put new carbon brush housing on it so wiring is not together again. I know you posted before do you have it again. I mess up carbon brushes and wiring. The royal although lower amp my 880 was running real good. There setup keeps motor and carbon brushes good and grease washer in bottom is genius. You don't have to tear into motor to oil bearings. The only issue is like small thread gets in motor through small vents. Get stuck by field coil and motor housing. The carbon brushes are long. There not quite as thick or fat as Kirby Omega to heritage 2 brushes. There both six amp and royal has longer brush meaning it's going to run longer before tune up. I feel they out suck Kirby's Kirby just gets larger surface area of suction to floor. I respect royals alot. Next projects are d80 which won't take long my 501. My parents geier and royal model 98. The 98 is straight suction and it's progressing nicely. I just had a brain fart I guess this post is done. Thanks again Ben you are encyclopedia of royal. I learned a bunch about Kirby's from you.. I recently got a 1,cr classic with all attachments. I also have a tradition. I learned alot messing my cr cb and tradition last time. I've already tuned up tradition put my 2.75 inch fill tube on it. I will do tune up on cr and polish after. I knoyou have a classic so I'll post pics of mine soon. It has goldish bag. Les | ||
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Post# 396657 , Reply# 5 8/12/2018 at 12:11 (2,076 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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Lesinutah
Les,
Picture of 886 service manual... see below for wiring diagrams. ~Ben
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| Post# 396667 , Reply# 6 8/12/2018 at 16:21 (2,076 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Hey
I've wired it every which way but the right way.
I'll name wires if you could translate it would be appreciated. Les 2 wires from field coil both black 1(black) 2(black) 2 wires from headlight white will be 3 3(white) 4(black) Wires coming from on off switch while will be 5 5(white) 6(black)
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Post# 396668 , Reply# 7 8/12/2018 at 17:42 (2,076 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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Lesinutah
Les,
As the wiring diagrams show... all colors must match up! It would help you greatly if you number each wire by color prior to disassembly. According to the NEC (National Electrical Code): Black (active) wires are coded L1; may also be colored brown. Models with the headlight will also have a black wire to be joined with the two going to the field and short cord. White (neutral) wires are coded N; may also be colored gray. Yellow wires (to headlight) are coded L3; may also be colored orange. On models with the headlight, this color wire is joined with the white neutral ones going to the field and the short cord. Green wires (for machines with a 3-wire cord) are coded PG (protective ground). AT MOTOR: Field coil has one black (L1) wire and one white (N) wire. Short internal cord has one black (L1) wire and one white (N) wire. Headlight assembly has one black (L1) wire and one yellow (L3) wire. Yellow wires (L3) go to headlight (join yellow wires to field coil, headlight and short cord with a large connector) White (N) wires to field and short cord Black (L1) wires to field, headlight and short cord (use large connector to join) Green (PG) wire and lug to motor unit. Lug is mounted to motor unit at where one of the screw holes of the side connection plate is, using a lockwasher and rivet. Solder end of ground lead is joined with the solder end of the ground lead in the short cord; the lug on the ground lead will be self-contained on the short cord for those machines built after 1990, therefore eliminating soldering at one connection. AT SWITCH: On/off switch has two black (L1) wires only. They are to be joined with the black wires from both the short (internal) and long (main) cords. Short (internal) cord has one black (L1) wire and one white (N) wire. Long (main) cord has one black (L1) wire and one white (N) wire. Green (PG) wire and lug built into switch on models so equipped. This is to be joined with the ground leads going to the long (main) and short cords. ~Ben This post was last edited 08/12/2018 at 22:24 | ||
| Post# 396670 , Reply# 8 8/12/2018 at 18:00 (2,076 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Hey ben
I kept everything wired not disconnecting anything. I know black red are power white is neutral and green is ground yellow usually is neutral. I'm pretty sure I had it wired right. I seen red wire but it didn't come lose so I left it.
1 to 6 2 to 4 3 to 5 Both whites together Black together and two blacks together. I'll take off housing and I think red wire connects to the carbon brush came loose. So I wired right just fix red wire. Thanks again. I should label but I didn't plan on anything busting loose. I effing hate wire nuts. I might solder together and put label on. Thanks Les | ||
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Post# 396671 , Reply# 9 8/12/2018 at 18:09 (2,076 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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Lesinutah
Les,
Please consider this when you do have to work at the motor next time. If anyone else here knows what that red wire serves, please let us know. I am otherwise glad that everything is now back together again! ~Ben This post was last edited 08/12/2018 at 19:05 | ||
| Post# 396683 , Reply# 10 8/12/2018 at 23:44 (2,076 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Ben
I know what red wire is to. The carbon brush housing inside motor housing a red wire and a green wire go on top of carbon brush housing. It's like Kirby's 505 era vacuum.
I will label them and take pics. I don't know if it's ground wire but I know where it goes. I'll make sure I put in correctly. Ben how in the world do you know next could see huskyvacs. You like classic tv sweet lawn mowers royals and Kirby's. Then you go pull electrical code out. I understand electrical but it's hard for me to explain. It makes sense to me but that's it. Thanks again Ben. Don't bust out speaking ancient language. Les | ||
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Post# 396688 , Reply# 11 8/13/2018 at 03:20 (2,076 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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Lesinutah | ||
| Post# 396728 , Reply# 12 8/13/2018 at 22:29 (2,075 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Hey
Ben
It was red wires. I'm not sure if there ground but I'm thinking so. The red wire pooped out. I got motor housing took everything out except carbon brush holders. I'm going to take them out carefully. I degreaser with liquid degreaser. Thanks for the diagram. I'm going to solder together use flux melt heat shrink and put label designating wires. I had it right just red wire lose would never work. Thanks again. Lex | ||
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Post# 396733 , Reply# 13 8/14/2018 at 00:22 (2,075 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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Lesinutah | ||
| Post# 396758 , Reply# 14 8/14/2018 at 15:19 (2,074 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah) | ||
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Ben | ||
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Post# 396763 , Reply# 15 8/14/2018 at 17:12 (2,074 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon) |
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Lesinutah | ||
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