Thread Number: 37001  /  Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
D80 Motor Brush Replacement.
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Post# 395479   7/23/2018 at 14:54 (2,075 days old) by hmc1981 (St. Augustine, Florida)        

hmc1981's profile picture
So, I just finished putting everything back together after replacing the carbon brushes on my project D80. I really thought it was a success until I turned the machine on and all it does now is make a buzzing noise. Any idea what I知 doing wrong?

P.S. I知 a lifelong fan of Kirby, but a recent member and am still learning about doing repairs. I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge/dumb questions.


Post# 395482 , Reply# 1   7/23/2018 at 16:47 (2,075 days old) by bikerray (Middle Earth)        

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It sounds as if the armature is not turning

So,

1. is something binding (not allowing the armature to turn)?
2. are the brushes seated and not catching on the commutator (as in a commutator bar has come loose)?


Post# 395484 , Reply# 2   7/23/2018 at 17:03 (2,075 days old) by hmc1981 (St. Augustine, Florida)        

hmc1981's profile picture
Very very possible... this machine was in truly sad shape when I found it. I got all of the metal bits polished (cannot believe how well it all came out) after which I decided it壇 be worthwhile to dig into it and fix the rest. I did go about it the wrong way though. I removed a good bit of what痴 behind the fan before I realized the brushes were much more accessible. I probably re-assembled incorrectly. I will try again and let you know... in the meantime, I知 polishing up my Heritage 1-HD (call me obsessed, but I clean up my nice ones on a weekly basis, lol). Thank you for your advice!

Post# 395489 , Reply# 3   7/23/2018 at 19:47 (2,075 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

First of all can you spin the motor shaft by hand?
Did you have a bushing between the fan and the bearing and if so get it put back in correctly?
Is there anything else in the motor that you took apart that could have been missassembled?
Did you get the wires back into the correct brush holders?


Post# 395497 , Reply# 4   7/23/2018 at 21:09 (2,074 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Hey

lesinutah's profile picture

I have had this happen to me. I had mismatched arature one time and carbon brush holder was bad. I'd make sure all bearings are sealed armature isn't rattling because you don't have tight fit. It could be wiring. It's endless but good luck to you. I'm putting d80 together today trying to get a riccar 2speed switch hooked to it instead of safety switch. Les


Post# 395509 , Reply# 5   7/24/2018 at 03:24 (2,074 days old) by rivstg1 (colorado springs)        
Lesinutah, let us know

rivstg1's profile picture
How that goes on the switch operation!

Post# 395528 , Reply# 6   7/24/2018 at 15:53 (2,074 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        
D80 Motor Group

kirbyclassiciii's profile picture

The correct replacement parts for the D50 and D80 motor group are:

103967 - field

114967 - armature

118067 - carbon brush (order 2)

 

~Ben


Post# 395555 , Reply# 7   7/25/2018 at 15:20 (2,073 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Update

lesinutah's profile picture
Hi
So I found wiring diagram for riccar switch it's a little different than expected. It requires less wiring than I expected but it might have worked either way.
The switch has 2 power and speed 1. You either have to splice a cord or have one available. I just parted out oreck mini hand vac so this worked perfect. This negates the switch safety switch and power cord.
The diagram is power from cord to center prong. White from power cord to 1 speed prong black high speed which I believe is red to 2 speed. I'm guessing black that has headlight carbon brush wire and black wire all come together and go to center prong along with power wire from cord. I would solder all 4 together and pigtail 1 wire. The 2 wires I'm not sure of are yellow which is reds neutrall wire and white which is blacks neutral wire from coil. Neutral wires are often tied together to keep flow of electricity through circui. The power wires are split and switch open or closes circuit.

So from the top 2 n 1 is 3 prongs on switch. Coil red black yellow white, headlight black and white there is a black on carbon brush and a green.
Tie 2 greens together they ground through carbon brush. Black from carbon brush black from field coil black from headlight and black from power cord solder together goes on n or center prong. The red goes to 2 prong and Al! White soldered together go to 1 on switch.
Wow
Here is alternate wiring. 516 to s7 has single speed. Blacks I'd solder together.( The reason for soldering is only 1 wire on power switch as opposed to 3. The three blacks from headlight carbon brush and field coil soldered connecting to on off switch. You have 2 or 3 white connect them also. Put white wire to power switch and 2 wires left red and yellow hook to single speed 516 to s7 switch.
On 505 to s17 all single speed. The safety switch can be bypassed. If you connect all power wires and white wires to power switch. You touch power button motor and headlight turns on.
2 benefits are any hose fits since you don't have to activate safety switch. It is the same for nozzles. You can put nozzles on from d80 and they work.
I have not finished d80 wiring as I'm moving vacuums to work she'd.
Les


Post# 395638 , Reply# 8   7/26/2018 at 18:20 (2,072 days old) by hmc1981 (St. Augustine, Florida)        

hmc1981's profile picture
I知 sorry it took me so long to reply... life kinda got in my way this week.

Thank you everyone for all of the information!

Truth is, I知 an idiot and I installed the fan spacer backwards. Everything runs great!


Post# 395641 , Reply# 9   7/26/2018 at 20:03 (2,072 days old) by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

Hey, I did that once, too! That is why I asked about it.
Glad you got it fixed.



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