Thread Number: 36402  /  Tag: Pre-1950 Vacuum Cleaners
1930's Royal 157 Hand Vacuum
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Post# 390217   4/9/2018 at 16:28 (195 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

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I got this on eBay for $12.54 on Nov. 4, 2017. It was nice and cheap, and I bought it mainly as just a practice dummy for learning to polish metal, not caring if it works or not, but I will fix it up and get it running.

It looks worse than it is, mainly just because it was sitting on a shelf for decades. The cord for sure is dead, the vulcanized rubber is rotting and that's what all those black skidmarks are on the inside of the box. It also got all over my hands. You try and flex the cord, and it snaps like a stick of spaghetti!

I'm not sure if it's actually from the 1930's, but it has "P.A. Geier Co. Model 157" stamped in the bottom, which I don't think was around in the...50's? 60s?


Photos taken on: 11/9/2017 10:12-10:19 PM

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Post# 390226 , Reply# 1   4/9/2018 at 17:50 (195 days old) by broomvac (N/A)        

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Based on the information you have provided us, that example might have come from the bottom of the sea.

Good luck practicing with the aluminum polishing! I would like to try my hand at polishing soon, too.

Post# 390240 , Reply# 2   4/9/2018 at 23:39 (195 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

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Dude it's really super easy. Harbor Freight > aluminum polishing kit. You could go all out and buy a 7" polisher and spiral stitch cotton buffing wheel. Either way, hit it with the red rouge, nice and slow, medium pressure. Wipe clean, hand polish with Mother's. Done - probably 20 minutes for that little guy.

But. Half of that particular vac looks like rusty stamped steel. You'll have to sand that down, maybe finish off with 1000 grit, then rattle can paint.

Also apparently Royal was PA Geier Co until 1953. Possible someone substituted a later model Royal bag? I'd imagine this vac is 1953 or earlier then.

Post# 390245 , Reply# 3   4/10/2018 at 01:06 (195 days old) by hygiene903 (Galion, OH)        
Royal 157 Hand Vac

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The 157 Royal was the first revolving brush hand vac introduced by P.A. Geier in 1937. Prior to that, all Royal hand vacs were straight suction. It was built until the company switched over to produce war materials during WWII, then production resumed after the war in 1945 and continued until it was replaced with the model 501 in 1953. Your bag is definitely original, and your 157 is most likely a post-war version, built somewhere between 1945 and 1953. Here's a picture of mine, along with model 153 and 189 uprights from the same era.

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Post# 390247 , Reply# 4   4/10/2018 at 01:50 (195 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

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@ MadMan; I do remember you saying that, yes. I just wasn't entirely sure on the entire ordeal. I do have a bunch of microfiber cloths and some Flitz polish I just bought.

@ hygiene903; Thankful for the information!

Post# 390279 , Reply# 5   4/10/2018 at 17:26 (194 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        

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Also, the P.A. Geier Company was bought out by the Walter E. Schott Organization in 1949, who renamed the business as Royal Vacuum Cleaner Company, but the new owners soon realized they weren't all that interested in the vacuum business, thus four years later they re-sold the company to a group of employees headed by Stanley E. Erbor, who subsequently renamed the company as Royal Appliance Mfg. Co.


Post# 390295 , Reply# 6   4/10/2018 at 20:04 (194 days old) by Dustin (Jackson, MI)        

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Don't waste good microfiber towels polishing aluminum, they will be trashed. Find an old cotton towel and cut it up into rag sized pieces. Use that and then dispose of them after. You will never get the stains out, and it will get all over the inside of your washer.

Post# 390301 , Reply# 7   4/10/2018 at 20:38 (194 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

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Do you think this would work?

Post# 390304 , Reply# 8   4/10/2018 at 22:00 (194 days old) by broomvac (N/A)        

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Unfortunately, I do not think that will work.

You will need a rotary buffing wheel, not a random orbital buffer. As MadMan said, a benchtop buffer would work great.

Post# 390308 , Reply# 9   4/10/2018 at 23:44 (194 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

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So I'd need something like this, then?

Post# 390319 , Reply# 10   4/11/2018 at 02:48 (194 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

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The thingy you linked is for polishing large flat surfaces (buffing cars). A bench grinder would work, but I prefer what I linked below. It's akin to an angle grinder. Except instead of using the supplied round disc polisher thingy, get a spiral stitched cotton wheel, which would be similar to the wheel you see on that bench grinder in the video. Or another type of polishing wheel. A hand-held polisher as opposed to a bench grinder will offer greater flexibility and maneuverability, especially for bigger things like full size vacuum heads. It'll make it easier to get into the nooks and crannies. Then again, a bench grinder has the advantage of being able to be bolted down, so you can really press against it. As opposed to the hand-held polisher, where you'd have to find a way of holding down the item you're polishing. Me, I just put the polisher on the edge of a table, and hold it down with one elbow, leaving two hands to work the item I'm polishing.

If you want to start small, however, the aluminum polishing kit comes with polishing thingies that you can chuck into any electric drill, and will do the same job, just a little slower.

I know attempting a new thing can seem daunting, I get that way with some things. I'm trying to overcome that daunting feeling with nickel plating atm. Still working on overcoming that, and actually starting doing it.


Post# 390345 , Reply# 11   4/11/2018 at 15:10 (193 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
Well I think I'll try and go with the bench buffer, because I already have a workbench to bolt it to - and the idea of trying to hold down a power tool with your elbow and maneuver it around in all these awkward positions seems very dangerous. I got my shirt caught in a belt sander 2 years ago, the sander swallowed up and ate half my shirt and then started climbing up my body as the shirt wrapped around the sanding belt. Had a lot of weird abrasions on my stomach and chest for several weeks, looked like I got in a fight with a tiger. haha So I'd rather have the safer option where I don't have to worry.

Post# 390376 , Reply# 12   4/11/2018 at 21:22 (193 days old) by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Dude that sucks. I'd be burnt on power tools too if that happened to me. I've had some scrapes (and stitches) here and there but for the most part I've been pretty ok.

Post# 390379 , Reply# 13   4/11/2018 at 22:33 (193 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Hygiene 903

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In for sale section a little bit ago someone was selling a pa geier model 81. I purchased it started it up and it runs like a champ. Power switch doesnt turn off but i can fix that.
I was wondering if you could shed some info on machine. It does not have a bag do you know where i could find even a generic bag to fit.
Thanks again your hygienes and Royal are stunning.
Thanks again


Post# 390385 , Reply# 14   4/11/2018 at 23:25 (193 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

If you don't wax afterward....Flitz keeps its shine longer than Mother's. Considering the work involved, you should use a good auto wax when finished polishing.



Post# 390386 , Reply# 15   4/12/2018 at 01:44 (193 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        
@ Real1shep

huskyvacs's profile picture
I got a small bottle of Flitz based on what people here said on other threads about Kirby vacs. So I do have some Flitz. I just am not sure what wax to use afterwards as a sealant like you say.

Also I just bought a 1/3hp Sears bench grinder from 1968. it takes 6" wheels, and the wheels secure with a simple hex nut, so it should work with modern buffing pads.

Also Madman, I did find that Rogue stick you talked about, but didn't buy that yet.

It will be awhile before I get my garage cleaned up enough to get the bench buffer installed, but I think I should be ready when I do.

Post# 390399 , Reply# 16   4/12/2018 at 12:22 (192 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Any good quality auto of the newer blends with longer lasting ingredients. Mother's, Raindance et al. I don't think it matters other than not pulling out some old wax tin your dad used back in the day. I do think the chemical formulas for car wax have greatly improved over time. 


Jewelers red rouge is the mildest/safest. If it were me, I'd start with aluminum polish sticks and switch to red rouge sticks at the end. But I'd only do that if there was bad scratching because you can start and stop with Mother's or Flitz.



Post# 390402 , Reply# 17   4/12/2018 at 14:02 (192 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

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You can just put the wax right on the metal even after polishing?

Post# 390403 , Reply# 18   4/12/2018 at 14:32 (192 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
Absolutely. Just wipe the wax on and buff it off by hand.

Post# 390408 , Reply# 19   4/12/2018 at 15:29 (192 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
Alright, cool. Sounds like a plan. Now...just time to get all this crap out of my garage to transform it into a workshop!

Post# 390409 , Reply# 20   4/12/2018 at 15:46 (192 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

I'm never sure if there is polishing residue or not......but take like denatured alcohol and wipe the surface...let dry.....then wax.



Post# 390417 , Reply# 21   4/12/2018 at 20:07 (192 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        

kirbyclassiciii's profile picture
Another thing that might be hip would be to get a 35-foot-long, 3-wire cord (1-031136-100 or 1-031136-600) for your 157. You will, however, need these other parts to make that work:
1-239760-000 or 1-259761-000 - solderless connector, small
1-186718-000 - #10 lockwasher (for ground lead wire lug)
1-050201-000 - ground lead wire and lug group
1-880304-000 - internal strain relief (commercial)


Post# 390430 , Reply# 22   4/13/2018 at 00:21 (192 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
Oh, I was just going to put that standard 2 prong ribbed cord on it that most 1990's Royals use.

Post# 390644 , Reply# 23   4/18/2018 at 01:55 (187 days old) by hygiene903 (Galion, OH)        
Hi Les,

hygiene903's profile picture
Sorry I can't tell you much about your hand vac, other than it is a Royal and was most likely built before 1937, when they introduced revolving brush hand vacs. It should clean up pretty good, but I have no idea where to get a bag for it. Thank you for your compliment on my machines, and wishing you the best of luck in restoring and finding a bag for your Royal.

Post# 390802 , Reply# 24   4/20/2018 at 22:13 (184 days old) by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

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I picked up some wax, not sure what exactly to look for, but would this be what I need for a sealing wax after all polishing is done?

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Post# 391160 , Reply# 25   4/27/2018 at 16:32 by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

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Anyone? This wax was $10 and I'd like to know an answer so I know whether to keep it or return it before the 30 days is up.

Post# 391178 , Reply# 26   4/27/2018 at 22:08 by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Idk. In theory, pretty much any wax *should* work, but you might need to experiment with a couple different types. $10 does seem a little high, I might've said ~$7ish from a retail store.

Post# 391181 , Reply# 27   4/27/2018 at 22:48 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Husky vac

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You need mothers mag polish.
I posted walmart link. If you are looking for polish or buffing compound get green red and white. If you use buffing wheel the blocks of polishing compound can be found almost anywhere. Walmart has some next to wire wheels and drill accessories. Harbor freight has next to buffing wheels. I have bought kirbys polishing compound and harbor freights. They are the exact same no matter where you get it.
Id use the bench grinder. I have a dewalt 7-9 in buffer. It weighs like 20 pounds. I was polishing a kirby tradition nozzle head it broke off clamps flipped the nozzle 30 feet caught my shirt ripped off my headphones flipped those 20 feet in multiple pieces and barely scraped skin but left a nice welt. I was okay but holy sheit. I use my bench grinder its slower but i keep my limbs in tac. You could also use handi butler from kirby. I used 5 inch orbital sander and on Amazon i got like 40 7 inches sanding pads from 80 grit to 2000. Sanding out inprefections made easy. Then i polish with polishing compond i use mothers mag when finished and it shines.


Post# 391183 , Reply# 28   4/27/2018 at 23:22 by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
I meant for sealing the finish after the polish is done, if that Ice wax is good enough.

Post# 391214 , Reply# 29   4/28/2018 at 15:42 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

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Idk if wax sealant would work. Im not really sure why you would want wax sealant. Car gets different conditions. To each his own if i were to use a wax meguiairs or they have rain x you waterproof windows. Im sure bases are similar they sale stuff to waterproof shoes leather etc. I dont seen a sealer stopping skid marks if you scuff wall but i attached pic. If you think about it very similar bases.

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Post# 391245 , Reply# 30   4/28/2018 at 22:37 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

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Still not understanding the wax thing. Ive heard of using isopropyl alcohol clean up residue. It makes as much sense as painting clear coat on it.

Post# 391271 , Reply# 31   4/29/2018 at 13:57 by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

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The wax is to protect the metal after polishing it so it does not oxidize and re-tarnish again as fast and to resist fingerprints and dust buildup on the finish. I just need to know if the kind I got is good enough.

Post# 391275 , Reply# 32   4/29/2018 at 14:11 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Turtle wax is fine for what you are using for. Make sure to apply with microfiber towel or wshing/waxing mit to not leavr fingerprints.

Post# 391288 , Reply# 33   4/29/2018 at 19:20 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

I don't know why you don't get the wax part. If you use the Mag cleaner or any other special purpose product like that, the finsih will look great for awhile and then start to degrade. In time without protection, the finish well start to dull and even show any imperfections you have. I can show you a G I never waxed/protected that was mirror shined about five yrs ago and today, looks like I never polished it.....never seen water or been outside. 


Car wax is the logical choice because it's designed for an outdoor environ. You may think of it as overkill or don't want to spend a few extra dollars to buy it, I dunno but it's a perfect choice to preserve the finish.



Post# 391297 , Reply# 34   4/29/2018 at 21:13 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Have you restored a vacuum. Look at my pic on my profile. Its not losing its sheen at all. You can watch all the you tube videos and restoration of kirby vacuums. I have seen multiple. If you have a show vacuum wax does nothing for it. Seriously look at my 510 i can postva pic right now. There is no wax on it. So why dont i get wax? Its a added residue you have to clean off to get shine of aluminum on vacuum. Unless your driving your vacuum to work and its getting rained on it going to be added residue over natural aluminum.
So maybe i should drive my vacuums maybe i could keep it nice and shiny until wax wears off becomes gooey residue biild up. Well its your vacuum not mine. What do I know.

Post# 391304 , Reply# 35   4/29/2018 at 22:25 by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Now, now. Some people have different opinions. And experiences. And that's ok.

Wax is usually the final step in perfecting a polish of any kind. Like a car's paint job. Wax is not really a 'coating' per se (wax on, wax off, remember?), it's more like a filler. The idea is that the wax fills up microscopic pores in the finish and makes it appear smoother and shinier than it is on its own, while blocking those pores also prevents moisture (even atmospheric) and dirt from getting stuck in there and either oxidizing the aluminum or just making it look dirty.

Also aluminum can oxidize from humidity, and hey, different geographical locations have different levels of humidity, and therefore different rates of oxidization.

Post# 391307 , Reply# 36   4/29/2018 at 22:44 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
I got worked up. My bad.

Post# 391335 , Reply# 37   4/30/2018 at 15:50 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

I got worked up. My bad.

Yeah you did. I have restored dozens of vacs, none of them Kirby. And I'm telling you that the 'Electrolux' metal finish at least, will not last over the yrs without some sort of coating to preserve it. And I use Mother Mag polish exclusively. I've also used it on steel knife blades that will rust because of the steel used. Same thing...left in a drawer or unmolested, the steel starts to darken and lose its sheen...after using Mother's. So I oil the blades to prevent that. That's not practical on a vac finish.


Just don't even reply to me if you have nothing constructive to say.



Post# 391350 , Reply# 38   4/30/2018 at 20:55 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Constructive. You dont bash me by saying I don't understand wax idea. Thats not constructive. I have not used wax so i can't knock it.
This is my personal opinion. I have fixed lots of vacuums and never used wax. I see it as a extra build up to clean up in future. I can polish. I can polish better than most getting metal to look better than most. So i dont need something to cover up imperfections. That is my opinion and why i dont use wax. How is that for constructive. Thanks for your opinion.
No hard feelings sorry if I offended you or anyone.

Post# 391357 , Reply# 39   4/30/2018 at 23:27 by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
Wow what in the world happened here?

Well, I guess I'll have to do this one on my own and see how it goes. I did get that bench grinder BTW, so next step is clearing myself a work area over the spring and getting some junk donated out of my garage so I can have a place to set it up and then watch some more tutorials on youtube on how to use it so I don't lose a finger!

I'm sure in Utah or anywhere out there it's not an issue because the air is dry and bland. Where Real1Shep lives up in Washington specifically, humidity is an offical season, and the upper northwest is known for its moss that will consume anything that doesn't move, so I am sure it's a big problem for him to keep chrome in good nick.

Here in the midwest just under the lake, things get humid a lot both in spring and summer with thunderstorms and spring rains. Not necessarily in my house all the time, but let's just say that if I don't keep my bread protected in the oven, it will mold in less than a week.

My Kirby Ultimate G bought new in 2002 has tarnished since then, it's never had a polish though but the shiny finish didn't last long on it. In retrospect it would have helped to protect it. I'll likely have a shop do that one since I'd be gutted if I screw it up since my mother paid the full MSRP for it of $2k.

Post# 391358 , Reply# 40   4/30/2018 at 23:58 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Suprisingly the g series are eadier to polish than older. Using a bench grinder would
Make quick work. The g series have alot of flat surfaces.
I talked to a007kirbyman today and he knows vacuums but he said fitz polish is superior to any other.
When polishing ultimate you really only take off minimal pieced example power nozzle handle cord and emptor. The g series seems like different aluminum that older so shine isnt same as legend 2 and older.
I polish up 2 sentrias in about 3 hours total. It took me 30 hours to polish 510 since it was sitting outside to elements for 30 to 40 years.
If u use wax let us know how it turns out. Im curious but cautious at same time.

Post# 391371 , Reply# 41   5/1/2018 at 09:14 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Constructive. You dont bash me by saying I don't understand wax idea. Thats not constructive. I have not used wax so i can't knock it.


You've just deconstructed your own argument. I could tell by the way you scoffed at waxing metal vac finishes, you'd never done it. That's not constructive and denies the fact that I've seen metal on vacs tarnish over the yrs after polishing.  If your metal never tarnishes for yrs after using Mother's then good for you. The original point was that car wax extends how long the interval is between repolishing.



Post# 391382 , Reply# 42   5/1/2018 at 11:12 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
When wax wears off you have an extra substance to take off. That is my point. Just because ive never tried it doesn't mean i didn't acknowledge it. I choose not to wax. Im sure it extends polish job but it is extra work before and after. I spend more time honing skill on polish and buffing.
You saying i am not constructive because i never used wax is not me saying your not constructive for not trying to get better at buffing and polishing. You also ignore the fact i dont use wax for 2 reasons and you only mention one.
You fault me yet you live in glass house.
My reasons are my reasons just because I don't wax against my argument.
I dont polish for my own reasons and you polish for your own reasons. I apologized and tried to end this i also offered huskyvacs advice.
The point is moot. I don't want to argue. You have not apologized you just keep going.
I concede you win. Thanks again for your opinion.

Post# 391394 , Reply# 43   5/1/2018 at 15:30 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Nobody wins Les.....when you scoff at someone else's methods and have never tired it, it brings the whole forum down a level. And now we're going to see each other all around the forum. The natural temptation will be lash out at each other again.  I promise to fight that, but if I see obvious BS that is contrary to my experinece, I will say something. But I'm not going to bring any of this's done as far as I'm concerned.


I appreciate the reasons you don't use wax. Auto wax can be removed with a swipe of denatured alcohol....possibly even isopropyl alcohol....never tried IA for removing  wax.


In the end, I think Huskyvacs should make his own educated decision based on what he reads here. I'm fine either way on what he chooses to do, are you?




Post# 391399 , Reply# 44   5/1/2018 at 19:23 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
We live in America huskyvacs can do as he pleases. I scoffed yes i apologized. I even gave suggestions on products.
Im here to educate be educated and civilized. I realized i shouldn't bash it unless I try it.
Husky vacs is very smart and so are you. I only ask if i aoologize lets drop it then.
Thanks for lesson and as will ferell would say
Keep on keeping on.

Post# 391423 , Reply# 45   5/1/2018 at 22:59 by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
Good lord. Talk about derailment. You know Kevin, we're all adults here. We're too old to have the 'but he started it' argument. Les said he was sorry, would it kill you to apologize too? Like you said, this whole spiel brings the forums down a notch.

(Aren't there mods that take care of this?)

Post# 391430 , Reply# 46   5/2/2018 at 00:34 by huskyvacs (Northern Indiana)        

huskyvacs's profile picture
Les, I do have Flitz polish as I read some old threads here and got some based on how many times it came up. I only have a small bottle right now for testing purposes.

Kevin, yes I am forming my own decisions, but I am still a n00b at this. At 26, I'm starting pretty late but I have had some experience with polishing metal before - just not on this large of a scale, and have not done a full teardown on a vacuum yet as far as a motor is concerned - they always seemed daunting.

I'll get there in time, just making sure I have the tools ready.

Post# 391434 , Reply# 47   5/2/2018 at 03:40 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Les said he was sorry, would it kill you to apologize too?


Not at all. I'm sorry, Les.


Now MadMan, does that make you feel better or resurrect the thread?



Post# 391456 , Reply# 48   5/2/2018 at 14:30 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Kevin, yes I am forming my own decisions, but I am still a n00b at this. At 26, I'm starting pretty late but I have had some experience with polishing metal before - just not on this large of a scale, and have not done a full teardown on a vacuum yet as far as a motor is concerned - they always seemed daunting.


You have all the time in the world figuratively speaking. I was like 32 when my then mother-in-law gave me my first Electrolux, used....a G. I knew of and watched Stan Kann on TV with a smile or two....but never connected the dots about actually collecting vacs.


Now you have a built-in forum, conventions and ebay etc. Unfortunately, the day of free and $5 vacs of any note are behind us. But there's always local finds, relatives, friends etc. Sometimes when people know you collect stuff they call or brink junk by.



Post# 391457 , Reply# 49   5/2/2018 at 14:34 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Your being smart just saying. Apollogy accepted.
Huskyvac does it say to apply with spongue or microfiber towel.

Post# 391466 , Reply# 50   5/2/2018 at 21:50 by MadMan (Chicago, IL, USA)        

madman's profile picture
It always makes me feel better when two grown adults can agree to disagree. But I think the real issue is that Les should feel better. (God that makes me sound like a hugbox hippie or something.)

I can't help it if I behave like a moderator. I've been one for long enough, and nobody else around here stepped up.

Post# 391468 , Reply# 51   5/2/2018 at 21:59 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

There was no need for a moderator....nobody was throwing personal insults and fowl language at each other. Just major differences of opinions.


What you're really alluding to is censorship and that's a slippery slope.



Post# 391471 , Reply# 52   5/2/2018 at 22:49 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
I dont think we need moderators. I dont think it is right to attack and go on defensive over opinions.
Kevin im calling it like im seeing it. I made a comment you disagreed. I went in a rant madman asked us to lighten up. I apologized and you still came at me. I apologized again saying everybody has opinions. You proceeded to drive your point home. I apologized again offered advice to Huskyvac. Madman interviened again. You apologized and seemingly threw insults at him for hijacking thread.
So Kevin lighten up and you dont need to be right make statements for hijacking thread.
I have been wrong before and corrected many times. You seem vengeful and hell bent on being right trying to start something with madman and me.
The point is if im wrong call me out. After that let it go. You might have something in life causing you to be on edge which is none of my business. I tdy not to attack anyone and if im called out for being an idiot great.
So lets treat this forum as knowledgeable spreading helping people out.
Let this be last post on this thread. Feel free to start anither thread but respecting Huskyvac and sorry huskyvac for hijacking your thread ill take full responsibility.
Life is short lets focus on productive board members and helo each other. Id say hold hands and sing kumbaya my lord but we can't.
Ps end of Thread

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