What is a good buffing motor for Kirbys???

Hi everyone.
I have a question about buffing motors. I am redoing my recently acquired Kirby Classic Omega. I have a parts Kirby from 1975 and my main Omega that was rebuilt by Kirby in the past.

The Omega I am redoing was rebult circa 1996 but somewhere along that time some idiot got water splatters on it and couldn't be bothered to wipe them off which caused the dreaded "liver spots" all over the housings. It still has good color, but those awful "liver spots" have to go!

Recently I bought wheels and compound to buff out my Omega.
I used to do it often when I worked at the vacuum store and never had any problems. We had old repurposed motors attached to a bench with an arbor and buffing wheels. They sailed through it.

I have a 3/4 horse bench grinder I used with my buff wheels and it bogs down when I try to cut with black compound and a stitched, treated wheel. I got frustrated with it and really put some force into it, only to burn my finish- which made unlovely heat ripples that I had to wet-sand out. After I sanded, then wet-sanded I tried the black emery cut again, only to not be able to get the wet-sand satin effect out- I can see the marks. It really irritates me!

Do I need a 2HP?
I really don't want to monkey with 3 phase or anything like that.
I have priced out good buffers online and thought: for that kind of dough, Am I better off sending it off to Kirby and having them deal with it?

What kind of bench motor do you guys use? and recommend?
Funny, when I was a repairman, I never thought to write down the specs of the motors I used and that was just b4 camera phones (smart phones were 3 years away still). I wish I had written down the specs.

When I buff, I want something powerful enough to give me the mirror finish i got in the past from sanding, wet-sanding compounding etc. I don't think my 3/4 bench grinder is going to cut it :/

Anyhow, What sized bench motors do you guys use?


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Post# 384255 1/14/2018 at 20:58 (2,292 days old) by reo580 (Holland, Michigan)
Checkrate/Likes 1 Hi everyone. I have a question about buffing motors. I am redoing my recently acquired Kirby Classic Omega. I have a parts Kirby from 1975 and my main Omega that was rebuilt by Kirby in the past. The Omega I am redoing was rebult circa 1996 but somewhere along that time some idiot got water splatters on it and couldn't be bothered to wipe them off which caused the dreaded "liver spots" all over the housings. It still has good color, but those awful "liver spots" have to go! Recently I bought wheels and compound to buff out my Omega. I used to do it often when I worked at the vacuum store and never had any problems. We had old repurposed motors attached to a bench with an arbor and buffing wheels. They sailed through it. I have a 3/4 horse bench grinder I used with my buff wheels and it bogs down when I try to cut with black compound and a stitched, treated wheel. I got frustrated with it and really put some force into it, only to burn my finish- which made unlovely heat ripples that I had to wet-sand out. After I sanded, then wet-sanded I tried the black emery cut again, only to not be able to get the wet-sand satin effect out- I can see the marks. It really irritates me! Do I need a 2HP? I really don't want to monkey with 3 phase or anything like that. I have priced out good buffers online and thought: for that kind of dough, Am I better off sending it off to Kirby and having them deal with it? What kind of bench motor do you guys use? and recommend? Funny, when I was a repairman, I never thought to write down the specs of the motors I used and that was just b4 camera phones (smart phones were 3 years away still). I wish I had written down the specs. When I buff, I want something powerful enough to give me the mirror finish i got in the past from sanding, wet-sanding compounding etc. I don't think my 3/4 bench grinder is going to cut it :/ Anyhow, What sized bench motors do you guys use?

Post# 384256 , Reply# 1 1/14/2018 at 21:02 (2,292 days old) by Reo580 (Holland, Michigan)
Checkrate/Likes The Kirbys both of them and the very beginning of my restoration. Photos... < > Photo 1 of 8 View Full Size

Post# 384257 , Reply# 2 1/14/2018 at 21:06 (2,292 days old) by Reo580 (Holland, Michigan)
Checkrate/Likes The awful liver spots and the sanding lines that I can�t make go away (headlight cap). Headlight cap I buffed out then gave up on until I could figure out my motor problem. Photos... < > Photo 1 of 3 View Full Size

Post# 384261 , Reply# 3 1/14/2018 at 21:36 (2,292 days old) by Lesinutah (Utah)
Checkrate/Likes *Hey* I have gotten a few spots out various methods. I would say the most effective is bar keepers friend after use 0000 grit steel wool do this two 3 times and it should buff out without stripping aluminum to core. You could use copper wire wheel but that makes deep cuts and alot of buffing to get desired shine. I use baby wipes to wipe off excess wax etc without harming anything.

Post# 384280 , Reply# 4 1/15/2018 at 02:43 (2,292 days old) by tolivac (Greenville,NC)
Checkrate/Likes Grinders-these usually run at 3600 RPM,buffers 1800RPM.Also sanders disc,drum-run at the higher speeds.A buffer with adjustable speed-cone pulleys is the best.This was what I used for Lapidary work which would be similar to buffing metal.And you had to use the right wheels and buff coumpound.And take it easy-don't push too hard on the wheel-that is when you will stall the motor and cause the burn ripples-you are actually sort of softening and melting the metal by friction.

Post# 384291 , Reply# 5 1/15/2018 at 09:37 (2,292 days old) by bvac6 (Fort Wayne, Indiana)
Checkrate/Likes Ive had excellent results using the bench setup I bought from Harbor Freight. Its managed to power through some really tarnished machines using the stitched wheel and variety of compounds. Its only a half horse. CLICK HERE TO GO TO bvac6's LINK

Post# 384295 , Reply# 6 1/15/2018 at 10:31 (2,291 days old) by Hank (Cali)
Checkrate/Likes I use an 8 inch HF model as well. Works perfect, love it. Can vouch for their bench grinders for sure.

Post# 384325 , Reply# 7 1/15/2018 at 23:01 (2,291 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana)
Checkrate/Likes Did anyone ever try shoe polishers? They also run at 1.6amps. i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/... Not exactly flexible, but maybe for long parts?

Post# 384327 , Reply# 8 1/16/2018 at 01:51 (2,291 days old) by tolivac (Greenville,NC)
Checkrate/Likes If you have a drill press or a lathe-most of these you can adjust the speed.You can attach your buffing wheel to one of those and you have an adjustable speed buffer!Also if you should have a Shopsmith or Total Shop multipurpose tool-you can adjust the speed on these for your buffing.And for either a flexible shaft tool is available so you can take the wheel to the job!Don't overlook variable speed Dremel type tools and variable speed drills.