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Thread Number: 35626
/ Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Let's Lube... |
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| Post# 382675 12/15/2017 at 14:10 (2,317 days old) by dialamaticman (Sheboygan Falls, WI) | ||
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Have a Royal 880 upright that I use on a nearly daily basis...How often should I lubricate it via the oiler tube ? Can't find any info on the manual on that. Thanks. | ||
| Post# 382915 , Reply# 3 12/19/2017 at 18:32 (2,313 days old) by Ultralux88 (Denver, Colorado) | ||
Here is the answer, a lot of people have a lot of opinions here, I've even heard people suggest using graphite to lube sleeve bearings... Please don't do that! These bearings are made by grinding up metal, usually bronze, and then molding it under high heat and pressure to create a porous material that will absorb the oil and keep a thin film on the surface between the shaft and the bearing, this is how they work. Detergents can break down the bearing material and ruin it, and anything like grease or graphite will destroy the oil film and allow the shaft to eat into the bearing, ruining it. The reason this stuff is made is because it is what you want and need to lubricate sleeve bearings.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ultralux88's LINK
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| Post# 382920 , Reply# 4 12/19/2017 at 20:56 (2,313 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana) | ||
SAE-30 nondetergent oil is what is preferred by many vacuum shop owners on this website and it's who I trust, since they would lose business if they screwed up their customers vacuum cleaners numerous times from using the wrong oil, would they not? Walmart has some of this SAE30 oil. It's a lubricating oil, not a motor oil.
www.walmart.com/ip/Super-... 3-in-1 oil is too lightweight for large motors. If you had a blender or a carving knife, sure, but not for a vacuum. I used 3-in-1 only once on an antique cast iron fan I had, and didn't do anything to it. I later rummaged around my garage and used SAE30 small engine oil from my snowblower after the 3-in-1 didn't work, and put a little bit of that down the motor, runs like new now(as new as a motor can after being rusted solid for 50 years). Brought the motor back from the dead. I'd never use 3-in-1 oil on my 1/4 horsepower shop fan, as that motor is way too powerful for that kind of oil. When you have a big motor that generates a lot of heat and runs at high RPM's, you need thicker oil. Nondetergent oil won't gum up in cold temperatures or when the motor is cold, and it won't make a slimy residue. SAE30 is slightly thicker than SAE20 so it will not just be sloughed out of the motor as easily from G-forces of the motor turning. As with car motor oil, you will get people that fight over silly little things like that, as you are going against what they have been believing for years or decades. People always stick with what they have been taught from wherever source and won't divert from that. Really, the only way to find out what oil is right, is when you have to replace a blown motor. lol If you have a laser thermometer that can help by measuring temperatures before and after oiling at various parts of the motor. You will always have heat, as it's a motor, but if the temperature drops off significantly then you know you've got a good oil. I will use that oil from Walmart in my vacuums once I start repairing them, but last year when I oiled my vintage fans, I used SAE30 small engine oil and I did check their temps after 2 hours of running them, and they were virtually ice cold, not at all overheating like they were previously. Took forever for them to lose momentum too when switched off, which is a good thing, as shows they are well oiled. Good luck! | ||
| Post# 382933 , Reply# 5 12/20/2017 at 00:45 (2,313 days old) by Stricklybojack (Southern California) | ||
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Use Sewing Machine oil or Electric Motor Oil, nothing else. Standard 3 in 1 oil is too light, has a mild solvent in it I think. Just a few drops and let it sit for an hour so it can work it's way in. Then fire it up, and Vac away. Mine was a screeching mess one minute, then one of the smoothest vacs I ever heard the next. | ||
| Post# 382940 , Reply# 7 12/20/2017 at 12:31 (2,312 days old) by Ultralux88 (Denver, Colorado) | ||
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| Post# 382951 , Reply# 8 12/20/2017 at 16:48 (2,312 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA) | ||
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I see them all the time in smaller electric motors. They are a pain to get a long service life out of them....generally because there's no layperson way to clean and re-dry impregnate.
To me, the advent of dry sintered bushings was a cost cutting measure.
Kevin | ||
| Post# 382952 , Reply# 9 12/20/2017 at 18:36 (2,312 days old) by tig21er (Indiana) | ||
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My Father was a service man for Hoover company in the early 50's. 3 in 1 oil was what was used by Hoover repairmen at the time to oil their bearings. In our shop we have been using it for over 67 years. | ||
| Post# 382953 , Reply# 10 12/20/2017 at 20:14 (2,312 days old) by Stricklybojack (Southern California) | ||
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Here is something on 3 in 1 that is similar to what I have seen elsewhere. CLICK HERE TO GO TO Stricklybojack's LINK | ||
Post# 382954 , Reply# 11 12/20/2017 at 22:16 (2,312 days old) by vacuumlad1650  (Wauponsee, IL) |
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| Post# 382973 , Reply# 12 12/21/2017 at 15:17 (2,311 days old) by vacuumdevil (Vacuum Hell ) | ||
My long preference for oiling stuff like this has been tri-flow.
It's waterproof it doesn't dry out oh and it's kosher!
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| Post# 382986 , Reply# 13 12/21/2017 at 21:24 (2,311 days old) by huskyvacs (Gnaw Bone, Indiana) | ||
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