Thread Number: 34788  /  Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Electrolux Model G
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Post# 375632   7/20/2017 at 15:32 (2,443 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        

Hi everyone,
I'm new to your website, and am glad to be here. I have a few vintage Electrolux vacuums that I've acquired through estate sales, and am fascinated with them. They are such solidly built and really cool looking machines. The problem I come to you for help with involves a Model G. I want to service the motor and bearings, but can't seem to crack the code on how to properly access them. I'd appreciate any advice you can give regarding how to get at them and what to do once I'm there. I've noticed that there's not a lot of information available.


Post# 375635 , Reply# 1   7/20/2017 at 15:50 (2,443 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
There are 2 screws hidden behind the Bumper on the rear end. Warm up the bumpers with a Blow Drier to make them Pliable, and carefully pull back to slide them out of their holes. You also have to remove the Top Trim to disconnect the Switch and undo a top and bottom screw.

Post# 375639 , Reply# 2   7/20/2017 at 18:20 (2,443 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        
Electrolux Model G Motor Removal

I'm in. Thank you very much. Some of those screws were pretty well hidden. Do you have any advice on servicing the motor, or can you please direct me to a thread where this was already discussed? I'd love to make this one run better, but if I can't I have another model G I can canibalize from.
Thanks again.


Post# 375641 , Reply# 3   7/20/2017 at 20:55 (2,443 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
Pack the Ball Bearing with a good grease...I like the Lucas Oil Brand called Red-N-Tacky. NAPA carried it. Oil the rear (bronze) sleeve bearing with 3-in-1 MOTOR OIL (blue bottle) as the regular oil will fell up the bearing. Wash the fans in sissy warm water and dry them well.

Post# 375665 , Reply# 4   7/21/2017 at 16:51 (2,442 days old) by Ctvacman (CT)        
Mike

Where are you located in CT?

Post# 375675 , Reply# 5   7/21/2017 at 21:40 (2,442 days old) by mikeinct (Connecticut)        
Model G Motor Tuneup

I actually just bought that grease to service a Dormeyer mixer and a Kitchenaid K5SS mixer. It's good stuff. Thanks for the advice. Hey there, CTvacman. I'm along the shore in Clinton. How about you? It's great to know there are kindred spirits out there.
Mike


Post# 375680 , Reply# 6   7/21/2017 at 22:02 (2,442 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

This post has been removed by the member who posted it.



Post# 375681 , Reply# 7   7/21/2017 at 22:03 (2,442 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
That's one of the best greases out there. I use it whenever I replace Wheelbearings on our Farm Equipment. Never had an issue with it so far...

Post# 375682 , Reply# 8   7/21/2017 at 22:04 (2,442 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
Oh it's "gum up" and "sudsy" water in my first post on the thread. Darn phone...

Post# 375689 , Reply# 9   7/22/2017 at 00:25 (2,442 days old) by gottahaveahoove (Pittston, Pennsylvania, 18640)        
Mike,

gottahaveahoove's profile picture
"WELCOME".

Post# 375751 , Reply# 10   7/23/2017 at 19:10 (2,440 days old) by Ctvacman (CT)        
Mike

Much further inland, I'm in Bloomfield

Post# 375796 , Reply# 11   7/24/2017 at 14:51 (2,439 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

I never used Red-N-Tacky but when it comes to packing ball bearings...you want great adhesion property because as the bearings spin, they tend to throw grease away from their enclosure. After yrs of working with bearings in a gold mill and then later in farm/industrial settings....the best grease types use molybdenum (commonly called 'moly').  I used to buy bearing grease at Case equipment retailers.

 

Kevin


Post# 375841 , Reply# 12   7/24/2017 at 23:49 (2,439 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Wash the fans in sissy warm water and dry them well.

 

Does sissy warm water come with a Tutu?kiss

 

 

Gotta be one of the better cell phone spell-check blunders.

 

Kevin


Post# 375842 , Reply# 13   7/25/2017 at 00:01 (2,439 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
Haha Kevin...you should see the auto corrector errors this phone makes...

Post# 375844 , Reply# 14   7/25/2017 at 00:11 (2,439 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Mine is the same, Andy. It's like a five yr old child with a supreme imagination. I look down sometimes and can't believe what it's concocted....either can the receiver of my messages...lol. 

 

They're supposed to be 'smart phones' because they learn the finer points from your texting....I find them rather dumb.

 

Kevin

 


Post# 375869 , Reply# 15   7/25/2017 at 13:20 (2,438 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        
Model G Motor Servicing

Hey all. I wanted to update you on my progress. I thoroughly cleaned everything as best I could, and greased the one bearing set I was able to find. I'm not clear on the rear bronze sleeve bearing referenced by vacuumlad1650. I just can't seem to find that one. I put it all back together, and the suction is still not very powerful compared to my other Model G. Any ideas on what to pursue now? I may just service that motor, and install it in this chassis, which looks nicer. I really appreciate all the advice given so far. I'll keep you posted on future progress.

Post# 375911 , Reply# 16   7/25/2017 at 22:57 (2,438 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Yeah, you need to (and should have) tested the armature. You also have to take the fan assembly completely off to service the sintered bushing.

 

You're swimming against the current if the armature isn't 100%. You just need a VOM and a tutorial off Youtube. If the armature tests OK, you also need new brushes. You sure your hose isn't leaking?

 

Kevin

 

 


Post# 375917 , Reply# 17   7/26/2017 at 01:54 (2,438 days old) by electrolux137 (Los Angeles)        

electrolux137's profile picture

~
~

It might be due to cracked or broken motor mounts. If they're messed up, the thick rubber gasket around the motor won't get a tight seal against the motor housing and the suction will be wimpy.


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Post# 375962 , Reply# 18   7/26/2017 at 16:44 (2,437 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        
Motor Testing

Excellent advice that is much appreciated. Thank you Real1shep and electrolux137. I had no idea what a sintered bushing was, but I do now after Googling it. I still don't know how to lubricate it though. Do I just drop some of the blue 3 in 1 motor oil on it? I also watched a video on how to test the armature, so I'll take care of that next. I believe the motor mounts to be in good shape, but will double check them. I also forgot to mention that the motor is pretty noisy now. I checked the suction without hoses attached, so they are not the problem. Thanks again.
Mike


Post# 375971 , Reply# 19   7/26/2017 at 23:18 (2,437 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

I like to clean the sintered bushing first and relube with the blue 3 in 1 product, yes (I also polish the armature shaft with very fine wet/dry sandpaper if it shows any discoloration...wet the paper with the oil).  Sometimes sintered bushing that old style will have a felt wick that's supposed to be wet with oil as a reserve for the future....don't remember offhand on the G. I go inside a lot of small electric motors.

 

A bit later on from that era, sintered bushing were impregnated with lube and they wanted you to just replace them. A lot of controversy there....dry lube, wet lube...some say you'll ruin the sintered bushing if you clean it and relube (the modern ones). Unless you know exactly what lube they used, your added lube could gall up the works.

 

Not something you worry about with a G motor though......just sintered bushing trivia...lol.

 

Some vac motors will have a foam like seal where the motor sits in....1205 comes to mind. Don't freak over finding OEM foam. The weather seal stuff they sell for doors is an excellent, durable replacement.....find the correct width and sponginess type of the original.

 

Kevin


Post# 376161 , Reply# 20   7/30/2017 at 19:57 (2,433 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        
Model G Power Nozzle

The Model G is working really well now thanks to the advice given here. I'm really pleased with its performance. The problem I have now is the power nozzle isn't spinning. The power nozzle itself is not the problem though, because it works on another vacuum. The hose electrical connections check fine as well. I don't seem to have any power coming from the outlet on the side of the Model G. Can someone please guide me in troubleshooting this? I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere, and am unsure about how much voltage I should be getting.
Thanks,
Mike


Post# 376162 , Reply# 21   7/30/2017 at 21:12 (2,433 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture
It runs on 120 volts. Very low amperage...two or three I think. I can get pictures of how they are wired.

Post# 376180 , Reply# 22   7/31/2017 at 09:52 (2,432 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        

Thanks for your help. I think I may have goofed when reassembling everything after servicing the motor. Can you tell me how the four wires should be hooked up to the switch? I really should take pictures as I disassemble. It would make my life so much easier.

Post# 376181 , Reply# 23   7/31/2017 at 09:59 (2,432 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
To quote an expert:

Tom Gasko wrote
"Here's a simple way to remember one speed canister vacuum wiring.

There are two leads from motor. Two from cord. Two from switch. Two from power nozzle receptacle.

Connect in this order:
One cord to One motor and One receptacle

One cord to one switch

One motor to one receptacle to one switch

In the end, there should be three wire nuts holding the eight leads in the above connections. "

This solved my issue.


Post# 376194 , Reply# 24   7/31/2017 at 18:59 (2,432 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        

Thanks for the advice, Garry, but unfortunately I'm still confused. That method doesn't seem to account for the four wires I have meeting at the switch. Maybe I'm missing something, but I think your method would have three wires at the switch. I don't understand why a simple wiring diagram isn't made available by Electrolux. Nothing can be found online. Frustrating.
Thanks,
Mike


Post# 376200 , Reply# 25   7/31/2017 at 22:18 (2,432 days old) by chicagomike (Plover, WI)        
Consider armature bearing grease - made for electric motors

chicagomike's profile picture
consider buying armature bearing grease - made for electric motors

CLICK HERE TO GO TO chicagomike's LINK


Post# 376231 , Reply# 26   8/1/2017 at 14:30 (2,431 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        

Thanks for the link regarding the electric motor bearing grease. It's always good to use high quality materials.
Mike


Post# 376235 , Reply# 27   8/1/2017 at 16:13 (2,431 days old) by dysonman1 (the county)        

dysonman1's profile picture
Wiring a Model G

The Electrolux switch should be wired as follows:

One lead from motor and one from receptacle should be joined together under one gold screw. There are two gold screws, so each should go on through the single motor and single receptacle lead wire. It matters not which one of the two motor and two receptacle leads you use, as long as you only use one each.


Post# 376273 , Reply# 28   8/2/2017 at 09:15 (2,430 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Ummm,

I thought about my post after I sent it and wondered if my advice was appropriate for this vacuum.

Sorry about that.



Post# 376574 , Reply# 29   8/8/2017 at 16:28 (2,424 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        
All done. Thank you!

Everything is all done. Thank you to everyone who helped me with this project. Now, I will start working on my Electrolux 1205. Much appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 5         View Full Size
Post# 376586 , Reply# 30   8/8/2017 at 23:29 (2,424 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

 I like both the G and the 1205, but clearly, the G is built to a higher standard.  Yet its greatest downfall are the crap, spindly wheels. The 1205 at least has durable wheels. Owners have had trouble with the 1205 carry handle though. The later, slightly more powerful G motors went into the 1205's first production run. Not sure if the same motor was used the whole production run of the 1205. The more powerful G motors had different color brush holders.

 

Your G looks great! A suitable pic with that rug and that old vac. You need the green power cord from the PN head up if you want it to be original looking.

 

Kevin


Post# 376601 , Reply# 31   8/9/2017 at 15:34 (2,423 days old) by MikeinCT (Connecticut)        

Thanks, Kevin. I like the way it came out. It's really quiet and powerful. I'm not really crazy about the power nozzle though, as it compares to the PN-4A I also have. It seems to bog down on thicker rugs. I'm wondering if there's a way to raise it up a bit. Regarding my next project I have a choice between the 1205 and a Silverado Deluxe 1501. Which do you think would give me the most bang for the buck? Are they equal in quality?
Thanks,
Mike


Post# 376604 , Reply# 32   8/9/2017 at 16:44 (2,423 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
Kevin (real1shep) wrote:
Owners have had trouble with the 1205 carry handle though.

I reply:
Yes, one of the first things I noticed about my Super J when I got it was the superior design of the handle. The 1205's handle is very fragile and poorly designed and the replacements are ridiculously expensive. I was lucky to find one for mine on eBay last year for about a quarter of the retail price. Otherwise, I would have just ground down the broken off spot on the original handle so it would be more comfortable to hold. To prevent the handle from breaking, it is best to lift the machine by the smaller cross member instead of the longer part that runs lengthwise. The attachment point on that tail end is woefully inadequate.


Post# 376619 , Reply# 33   8/9/2017 at 23:32 (2,423 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Thanks, Kevin. I like the way it came out. It's really quiet and powerful. I'm not really crazy about the power nozzle though, as it compares to the PN-4A I also have. It seems to bog down on thicker rugs. I'm wondering if there's a way to raise it up a bit. Regarding my next project I have a choice between the 1205 and a Silverado Deluxe 1501. Which do you think would give me the most bang for the buck? Are they equal in quality?
Thanks,
Mike

 

Well, the Oly One and the Silverado have the Super J big motor, so lots to be excited about there! But the 1205 was unique because it was the first model to use internal electric for the hose. In fact some early models still had the PN pigtail attached to the side of the vac...then they went fully internal. Lux liked to use up line parts whenever they could....good business and less waste. However, the suction/flow of the 1205 is nothing special as it's basically the later G motor. 

 

I guess it depends if you want historical significance or a bad-ass DD. My Diamond J's with the PN 4 are a force of nature when it comes to actual cleaning. True the PN 1's needed some more evolution with different pile thicknesses. The PN 2 is slightly better in that regard. I have a 50th Anniversary PN 2 that almost got restored...lol. Hard to put a lot of time into those old PN's when I have the PN 4 and Sidekick....lol.

 

For whatever reason, I wound up with a lot of PN 1's.  There are even some slight mechanical differences between an early PN 1 and some of the last ones....I seem to have both...has to do with bearings/brackets for the brush roller as I recall.

 

Kevin

 

 




This post was last edited 08/09/2017 at 23:47
Post# 376620 , Reply# 34   8/9/2017 at 23:39 (2,423 days old) by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

I reply:
Yes, one of the first things I noticed about my Super J when I got it was the superior design of the handle. The 1205's handle is very fragile and poorly designed and the replacements are ridiculously expensive. I was lucky to find one for mine on eBay last year for about a quarter of the retail price. Otherwise, I would have just ground down the broken off spot on the original handle so it would be more comfortable to hold. To prevent the handle from breaking, it is best to lift the machine by the smaller cross member instead of the longer part that runs lengthwise. The attachment point on that tail end is woefully inadequate.

 

Lux at least into the late 80's, tried to remedy model faults before they launched into a new model. However, that didn't guarantee that the new model didn't have fault points of its own. 

 

Kevin

 


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