Thread Number: 3018
Electrolux Silverado and Silverado Deluxe
[Down to Last]

Vacuumland's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate vacuumland.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 33434   2/27/2008 at 14:43 (5,874 days old) by charles~richard ()        

Could someone tell me the differences between the Silverado and Silverado Deluxe? I have had both at various times but currently just have the Deluxe. One thing I am aware of is that one or the other of them has a shorter-profile motor than the other one does, and that there is a plastic snout about 2" long to extend the suction opening to the back of the bag cage. I would assume the smaller motor is less powerful, but it if runs at a higher speed that may not be the case.

And speaking of bag cages, didn't Electrolux louse things up when they went to the plastic bag cage with the single suction opening? Didn't the older metal perforated cages do a better job since the suction power was more evenly distributed across the surface of the bag? Especially as it started filling up? Since dirt accummulates at the bag end of the bag, right where the single hole is on the plastic cages, it would seem that they would lose suction much more quickly.


Post# 33448 , Reply# 1   2/27/2008 at 16:21 (5,874 days old) by elux89 ()        

I too would like to know the difference. In regards to the motors, from the documentation I've seen, supposedly any models from serial # P-15000-R and above had the newer style motor. Don't quote me on this one, but I think the newer motor was the LF??? I also believe that the newer model motor had a wider diameter fan unit than the SJ style.

I agree with you on the bag cages having one hole at the bottom is not the best. I still like the bag cage in my Canadian Z89, where the suction was distributed fairly evenly on all sides. One way to limit the decrease in airflow as the bag fills, is buy the filtrete or hepa style bags. Paper bags I hate and will never buy again. Try purchasing Endust Hepa bags, they offer exceptional filtration qualities, and airflow does not suffer as greatly as the bag fills, only problem, high price.

Vernon



Post# 33488 , Reply# 2   2/27/2008 at 20:31 (5,873 days old) by lux1521 ()        

O.k. Here is the deal on the Silverado.

The Silverado had two big changes during it's run. The first (I assume) was the introduction of the PN-5 power nozzle to replace the PN-4A. The second change was the motor update.

When the name change seems to have occoured at a different time from when the internals changed. I suspect the PN-5 may have been when the name changed. I have a Silverado Deluxe here that has the older Super J motor in it so you can probably rule that out as the point when the name changed.

As I usualy do, I will post pictures of the motors for everyone. On the left is a Diamond J style, which I have never seen in a Silverado myself, but I have only ripped apart two of them. The one on the right is actualy a 1205 motor. A Super J through Silverado motor would have been larger on the electrical end but is otherwise the same as the 1205.

Erick


Post# 33533 , Reply# 3   2/28/2008 at 18:06 (5,872 days old) by charles~richard ()        

Well, like I said, one of my Silverados has the shorter profile, as you see on the in the photo above, then there was a transluscent white plastic collar, of the same diameter as the suction hole and of sufficient length to connect the motor fan opening to the bag cage opening. I still am not clear on which of the two motors is more powerful.



Post# 33558 , Reply# 4   2/28/2008 at 22:00 (5,872 days old) by elux89 ()        

Charles,
The motor on the left in Erick's photo, we have one in our 2100, that LF motor pulls about 78 inches of lift. I don't have an SJ motor on hand to test it for comparison. I recently purchased a silverado and SJ, both are being shipped and should be here by late next week. When I get them, I will test and publish results. It will be interesting as to which motor will be in the silverado. Unfortunately, I don't have an airflow test gage, only a suction gage.

Vernon


Post# 33561 , Reply# 5   2/28/2008 at 22:11 (5,872 days old) by lux1521 ()        

In terms of power they should be about equal. The point of the later motor is weight reduction. The thing with the later motor is the poorer quality and the difficulty of finding replacement parts. I personaly think Lux motors from about 1983-1987 were quite bad. There is no Electrolux motor I have had as much trouble with as the Diamond J motor. Motors from the Grand Marquise on are better and have double ball bearings instead of a ball/sleeve configuration.

I think it should also be noted that the Super J motor and the Diamond J and later motors are not interchangable. They just won't fit, even with a bag chamber conversion. Now if your good with a dremel tool then you can make mods to the mounting plate.


Post# 33592 , Reply# 6   2/29/2008 at 12:45 (5,872 days old) by briankirbyclass (Eudora Kansas)        

briankirbyclass's profile picture
Hello, everyone, im new to the forum, but have been lurking in the background, its a pleasure to be here.
About the Silverado "Deluxe",,,im a former Kirby salesman (many years ago), and had been told then that "Deluxe" means WITH POWERNOZZLE, as there was always a 1205 "Deluxe", Golden J, Super J, "Deluxe" ect, meaning it comes with the power nozzle.
If the salesman sold the machine without the powernozzle, it was just a 1205, Golden J, Super J, Olympia, Silverado, ect.

Had no idea that there really was a different size motor too, very interesting!

Just wanted to say thank you too to all of you, ive learned so much from all of you here.


Post# 35589 , Reply# 7   3/23/2008 at 21:13 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Very Interesting indeed. The Silverado Deluxe has been my daily driver for years. I just picked up another one yet to be delievered as it had the powernozzle which I don't have. The one coming has the L PN5. I'm not sure if thats the correct PN but thats what this one has. Th Olmypia has a PN4 which I have on ocassion used on the silverado as well as I have used the PN6A from my 2100. They all work. Mine all need new hoses & I am down sizing as I have too many for this small shoe...LOL.

Now I am curious about the other silverado are they both 1505?
Why didn't they change the model number? It would make for a part ordering nightmare & I can't see why electrolux would reconfigure a motor housing & not change the model number.
I have never opened my electrolux except for power nozzles. I think I might peek in the Olympia just to take a look around...

Great Forum!


Post# 35593 , Reply# 8   3/23/2008 at 21:37 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

They are all 1505s. Just for the sake of completeness I'll list all of luxes metal body model #s I'm aware of:

1205 - Original Boxy Style Canister
1205 (or 1210) - Golden J
1401 - Super J (Both Versions)
1401-b - Olympia One
1505 - Silverados (All Versions)
1521 - Diamond Jubilee, Marquise, Grand Marquise, Legacy, Ultralux, Ultralux LX, and Ultralux Classic

Oh, and a Silverado would come with either a PN-4a or black PN-5 power nozzle.


Post# 35599 , Reply# 9   3/23/2008 at 22:18 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thanks for the info my 1505 Silverado not sure if its deluxe or not is coming w a omni flow PN5 L design so maybe its a replacement.



Post# 35603 , Reply# 10   3/23/2008 at 22:34 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

It looks original to me. Should be interesting to see what you think of the differences between the PN5 and PN6. The PN5 lacks the on/off switch and bare floor brush strip of the PN6.

You can get replacement hoses for these cleaners at www.Hescosinc.com.... I think the part number is el-8000. Should cost under $30.00. Some people complain about the lack of a swivel hose handle on this model and choose a more expensive genuine replacement, but I've never had any real problems with these. While your at Hescos you might want to pick up some other lux parts. The prices are great on a lot of stuff.


Post# 35605 , Reply# 11   3/23/2008 at 22:51 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thanks for the info

Have been to Hesco as they have great schematics.
The off button is a good thing esp as you say for barefloors or persian rugs. I do prefer the PN6 over the way the PN4 grooms but it could need a new belt & I like the metal body. Guess can't have everything.

I thought the PN5 was square but this is what it is. an impulse auction buy & an offer accepted & it looked to me like a good machine.

Some PN5's are metal body so that would make this a late model? Then it would most likely be the deluxe.

I can compare the 2 Silverado's when it comes.

My Silverado Deluxe looks just like the Olympia except its brown & model 1401 B



Post# 35607 , Reply# 12   3/23/2008 at 22:57 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

What you have in the picture above is an Olympia One. All Silverados were the same color.

Post# 35608 , Reply# 13   3/23/2008 at 23:01 (5,848 days old) by elux89 ()        

Well guys, so much for the lux repair manual that I have access to that says serial# p-15000-r and above have the newer style motor that Erick has posted above (left one). The one I have starts with p-165__-x, and it has the super j motor. If you plug the air line that runs from the basket to the cordwinder, the SJ motor pulls 75 inches of lift. The lf pulls 78. Not that much of a difference. I regards to airflow, I don't know (seems close)as I don't have a baird airflow gauge to test with. That's my next purchase. Will update when I get one.

Vernon


Post# 35609 , Reply# 14   3/23/2008 at 23:10 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Nothing like scientific vacuum performance analisis! When it comes down to it I'll take the Super J motor. I can put a music CD in my computer and have a like new Super J motor before the last song is over. I don't think that's possible with a later style motor. The parts for the newer ones are discontinued or hard to find so that kinda stops you before you even start working on those anyway.

Post# 35611 , Reply# 15   3/23/2008 at 23:32 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

The brown one is my Olympia just saying my Silverado Deluxe is same length. They look almost identical except for color

Interesting my Silverado Deluxe
ser # is P84975X.

So do they have to have X. I don't have the serial # on the Silverado that's in the mail but I'll be curious to find out. I know the one I have is a Deluxe as it says deluxe. Still confused which would be a better motor.



Post# 35612 , Reply# 16   3/23/2008 at 23:44 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Does the 2100 have a similar motor LF?
I have a plastic body 2100 & the motor sounds the same as the others. It says it had the most powerful motor electrolux offered. I have a complete 2100 PN 6B & I've had it in the closet for almost 10 years not used as it needs a hose.
Those newer hoses dinintegrated from the inside out. The rubber lining is literally falling apart.


Post# 35613 , Reply# 17   3/23/2008 at 23:47 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

The difference between the early Silverado and Olympia are nearly non-existent. The Silverado has some additional reinforcements to the motor frame and the inside of the front cover is plastic and not painted metal. The late Silverado has a different motor altogether.

I have always found the late Silverado motor (which also powered the Diamond Jubilee) to be cheap and relitivly unreliable, although perhaps more powerful and lighter weight. In my opinion Lux didn't make a really good motor again until the Marquise or Grand Marquise, which had double ball bearings that are replaceable.

The 2100 should have the newer style motor. I'd imagine it's the double ball bearing type if it was built after 1987.


Post# 35614 , Reply# 18   3/24/2008 at 00:19 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Interesting...maybe I will nix selling the olympia but my silverado deluxe has always served me well. I'd rather have double ball bearing than sleeve but I am new to learning bout these things from great forums like these.

I paid I think $10 for my Olympia w power nozzle about 5 yrs ago from Salvation Army. Maybe $30 for the Silverado from Good Will wo a power nozzle about 7 yrs ago. I basically bought the olympia for parts & the power nozzle works fine but its brown.

I see the carbon brushes on the motors ...those plastic pieces sticking out. I want to keep one good electrolux & now it might jkust be the 2100 as its complets & hardly used. Its I think from 1988. Even have the manual...another SA buy think it was $35 & when I saw it my eyes lit up & I ran & grabbed it!!!




Post# 35615 , Reply# 19   3/24/2008 at 00:22 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Oh the 2100 was built in USA as was the power nozzle & its a PN-6B...Manual has a date of 89 so it has to be least 89.
I must have gotten it when it was about 8 yrs old!
quite a find


Post# 35616 , Reply# 20   3/24/2008 at 00:32 (5,848 days old) by briankirbyclass (Eudora Kansas)        

briankirbyclass's profile picture
I know an OLD OLD Lux salesman, who sold for over 45 years, told me once that ANY Electrolux that is "Deluxe" or is sold as "Deluxe" just means "With Powernozzle".

Hmmmm, interesting.


Post# 35617 , Reply# 21   3/24/2008 at 00:38 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

I'd say your 2100 is a good one. The Silverado I can't tell without taking a look at the insides. The Olympia should be about as reliable and serviceable as they get.

With a good amount of care any of them should last. It's just that the models after 1987 and before 1983 (early Silverado and Olympia) seem to hold up to abuse better. By abuse I mean poor quality bags, damp storage and stuff like that.

And on the whole Deluxe/PN thing, I don't even know if they sold machines in the 1980s without PNs. I thought they were standard by then. I think I have seen plain Silverados with older PN-4a power nozzles. I might have to take a poll of cleaners on ebay and see how they are labled and how they are equiped and see if I can figure it out.


Post# 35618 , Reply# 22   3/24/2008 at 00:40 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

So that would throw id'ing the early & later silverados by the deluxe label out the window... back to the drawing board
& it all seems futile when even serial numbers don't tell the whole truth


Post# 35619 , Reply# 23   3/24/2008 at 00:41 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

"back to the drawing board"

Yep. I think so.


Post# 35622 , Reply# 24   3/24/2008 at 00:50 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

The olympia hose is bad but it sucks pretty good at the neck still the silverado sucks a tad stronger at the neck. The 2100 sucks about the same. My thought are the silverado sucks a tad stronger than them all, thats why I was leaning toward keeping it. Also the olympia make a moaning noise when you shut it down. don't know what it means but probably not good. It's like its going aarhhhh don't shut me down yet...LOL

I've been trying to figure out the silverado PN thing myself
thats why I got myself into the double silverado saga but I always say things happen for a reason & if anything you learn from it.

My electrolux metal cannisters are from CA. I 'd say the new silverado is from Michigan...oh boy but it looked pristine in the pix....Guess soon we will have to look for CA vacuums....
driven only on sunday by the lil ole lady from Pasadena!

LOL



Post# 35623 , Reply# 25   3/24/2008 at 01:00 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Don't worry about the Olympia making a bit of noise. My Super J still does it even after I put new bearings in it. I'd imagine the fans are a bit dirty and have put the motor off balance slightly. If it makes strange noises when at full speed or squeals at any time, then I might get worried.

The rumble seems to be a Lux characteristic. Not part of the design, and not really a good thing, but it seems like most have it by now, and run with it just fine.


Post# 35625 , Reply# 26   3/24/2008 at 01:12 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

I think I am going to open it up & clean it.
It's true when the blades get covered w soot its not good but usually the soot is distributed equally. I like making them better. I think they deserve it after years of faithful sevice.
Thanks so much for all the great advice///I & my electroluxes both thank you for your invaluable insight!



Post# 35626 , Reply# 27   3/24/2008 at 01:25 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

If you need any motor rebuild advice or help, just ask! The Olympia/Super J motor along with many pre 1983 lux motors are very easy to work on as long as its not rusted together. If this is your first time rebuilding a motor then it should be a good starting point.

Post# 35627 , Reply# 28   3/24/2008 at 01:33 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thanks, that is very nice of you!
Never rebuilt a motor but I think I can do anything I set my mind too. Thank you so much but my Benz is missing me. I spent weeks under the hood getting it happy. I'm small & thats a problem working on a 83 V8 benz but yeah a electrolux I'm game. So far its just been cleaning related I;ve done. I see the brushes on the royal upright. Never knew what a brush was before. I would like to know what lube is ok. I have some Maytage turbine oil I have used some drops in the Royal upright oil port. I just love the hands on appraoch & don't mind getting a lil dirty for a girl...I'd say who changed the distributor cap & vac hoses on her vintage benz I'd say I'm game!!!

Hey it's late out there...you get some sleep...

Thanks Again!




Post# 35639 , Reply# 29   3/24/2008 at 09:57 (5,848 days old) by elux89 ()        

In regards to your 2100, if it's an earlier model, it might have the LF motor, which is not as good as the SJ style. After the LF came the roller bearing to roller bearing that Erick has spoken about. We have a 2100 that has the lf in. On the exhaust plate, there is no ridge to attach the combination tool. I don't know if this is a way to indicate that it's an earlier model and might have the lf style motor in or not.

In regards to lubes, I'm using Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 motor oil on the sleeve bearing, for the roller bearing, I'm using either Mobil synthetic grease, or lately Red Line synthetic grease. Using these in my car as well. Will never go back to conventional lubes again, as the synthetic lasts longer and is much much more durable.

Vernon


Post# 35646 , Reply# 30   3/24/2008 at 11:46 (5,848 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thanks, The Royal upright said 30W oil & I hunted for it w no luck even the vac store didn;t have it. Good to know oil is oil & guess have to go to an automotive house. I would suppose the synthetic to last longer & perform cleaner.

I just had 20W household oil & decided to try some Maytag turbine oil I have that was made for heavy duty motors. Says Non Pariel I think its good stuff. So does that mean the Royal has sleeve bearings in its motor?

The 2100 is 1989 or after so hope its got the better motor.It's the one without the dark gray on the sides.

Ser # F11477T


Post# 35650 , Reply# 31   3/24/2008 at 12:07 (5,848 days old) by lux1521 ()        

There is no need for synthetic oil in a vac motor. It does not have any of the complexities of a car engine. If you get a plain 30w oil with no additives then you should be in great shape.

The Royal has sleeve bearings. Since they are designed to be maintained they are ok. Royal metal uprights are very good as far as reliability is concerned. Basicly the same design they had 50+ years ago with only added power and slightly different shape in a few areas.

When it comes to sleeve bearings its really more to do with how they are implemented. The Super J motor actualy uses a sleeve bearing on one end but is highly reliable, because you can maintain it, restore it, or replace it with little hassle. The Hoover Baby Model 103 in my "Guess what I found" thread in the vintage forum uses sleeve bearings and it's still running after 80 years. Its just a matter of how the bearing type is used.

For reference a good newer lux motor looks something like this:


Post# 35725 , Reply# 32   3/24/2008 at 23:50 (5,847 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Ok. In the picture I circled two of the 3 cord winder screws. The other is on the bottom. When the screws are removed you can pry out the cord winder from the metal body. By the way, the model you are looking at in the picture is a Grand Marquise / Legacy / Ultralux.

Post# 35727 , Reply# 33   3/25/2008 at 00:03 (5,847 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Didn't see those as
there was arubber covering on it so I'll have to get under that. There also is a tube that yours doesn't have
or maybe you removed it I think I see where it went on yours.

Don't want to mess up the cord winder
My that thing is almost as bad as getting in a mercedes engine!

The royal is sleek & simple
I wish mine sucked better
never opened the case but peeked in & could be brushes are down but I am no expert just see about 1/4 inch. Still getting to motor is much easier than the electrolux.

I just want to look not really rebuild
just to clean caked on dust & maybe see how good it is.

Do they repack bearings? guess thats a special grease

I like to work on things & make them better
sort of like a dr for machines....

Thanks!


Post# 35730 , Reply# 34   3/25/2008 at 00:26 (5,847 days old) by lux1521 ()        

These days you take your old ball bearings and throw them out and put in some new ones. You can get replacement bearings for as little as $2.

To access the fans on the Olympia the motor must be removed but not fully dissassembled. The hose you have on yours is typicly not included on newer version of the metal canisters. If you compare this design with many newer models it's actualy looks simple.

The Royal was built to be simple. Thats what makes them great. You can actualy check the carbon brushes on the Royal by removing the brush caps on each side of the motor. By the way, what is the amperage rating on your Royal? The 866 sounds like a newer one (80s) and should be fairly aggressive.


Post# 35733 , Reply# 35   3/25/2008 at 00:41 (5,847 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Wow $2///why not give the ole by new bearings...
BTW it seems to be making more a of shut down whine???

I did unscrew the brush caps there were springs but I dared not mess.
The Royal 866 now I forget the model but think its 886
its 6 Amps & serial number indicates I think a 1988 model
so not that old.

They don't make the carbon brushes for the old Royal anymore

Checked with Hesco as I don't have a oil port cover either but those parts are discontinued


Post# 35735 , Reply# 36   3/25/2008 at 00:56 (5,847 days old) by lux1521 ()        

At 6 amps that Royal should have plenty of power. Perhaps you need a new belt for it. Much of the Royal's cleaning ability comes from good brushing of the carpet. The brush roll might need replacing too.


A "shut down whine" is not all that bad. A rumble is from some kind of unbalance or bearings with a fair amount of wear. A whine is usualy carbon brush noise which can't be totaly eliminated. As long as you don't get too much carbon brush clicking during shut down or when it's running then I'd say your ok.


Post# 35738 , Reply# 37   3/25/2008 at 01:14 (5,847 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Got new belts bought about a dozen of the old royal belts.
I think the bearings in the roller end at least one has some sand.
it doesn't turn well
I tried to get in there & clean it
used some oil but it could be a contributing factor.

I also have to play with the vacorrite screw

I have been setting the head further down & its ok

don't get me wrong it works fine but I am trying to bring back to life 25 yr ole carpet & it just doesn't make it stand up as well as say the Hoover Windtunnel on a clean filter.

I washed the bag & blew oput the dust in the motor so its pretty clean. I do think I;m getting roller bearing noise
but am assessing which of the gang I should get parts for;
Just need to be frugile but truthfully the Royal is a cheapy
just belt & roller no fancy filters

I will try to get into motor housing of olympia if its not too cumbersome. Its a good learning experience.

Thanks for the assistance


Post# 35778 , Reply# 38   3/25/2008 at 12:17 (5,847 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

A new day & recollection

I did open those 3 cord winder screws
2 on top end & one center bottom.

Also removewd top switch plate screws.

I tried to wiggle things open but not knowing where it would or if there were more screws ...anyway it wouldn't budge.

If that was a good point to be I'll have to get there again & get a screw driver in there?
Are you saying that back end pulls out? I was thinking somehow the case should slide off.

I'm afraid opening that won't get me too far.

Is the motor next? & then the fan? would think fan would be closer to the bag...

Hesco doesn't have exploded diagramss for the tanks.

Don't really want to take every piece off just to open it up..it's really built like fort knox...LOL



Post# 35795 , Reply# 39   3/25/2008 at 18:35 (5,846 days old) by lux1521 ()        

You got to a good place. The back end slides off after those 3 screws come out. Then comes the motor which you deal with on it's own. You can pry it out by putting a flat head screw driver between the rubber around the back and the metal casing and twisting it. The first time it is removed can be rather hard because of dirt and rust in that area combined with the fact that it has been that way for 28 years.

The switch does not need to be removed to do motor work.


Post# 35797 , Reply# 40   3/25/2008 at 18:49 (5,846 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thanks, I was hoping but as I didn't know I figured I wasn't going to force anything.

It might need brushes or bearings. Think I hear clicking.
Its old & I was going to ebay it. I had it for parts just in case but getting too many..LOL


It will be a good lesson to get inside it & see what magic I can do.

Thanks



Post# 35814 , Reply# 41   3/25/2008 at 21:14 (5,846 days old) by lux1521 ()        

For minor clicking I'd leave the brushes alone for the moment. It happens with age and might not be the brushes as much as the commutator which makes contact with the brushes. I have even seen some brand new cleaners that had a bit of a click so I would not bother worrying about it.

The front bearing replacement could be a bit tricky on this model. You will need to drill out or punch out two rivits and replace them with bolts, nuts, and lock washers of the same length.

The sleeve bearing should only need just a cleaning and re-oiling.

Cleaning the fans is as simple as hot water and some cotton swabs. Fan cleaning can reduce motor vibration and could make the unit smell a bit better while in operation.

Naturaly, before you can do any of this the motor has to come out, which can be tricky if you don't have a nut driver long enough.


Post# 35849 , Reply# 42   3/26/2008 at 00:19 (5,846 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Nut driver? is that a socket wrench?
I have some
I do belive just a cleaning can go a far way
I'm not doing any major rivet or washer conversion

It's not sucking as strong as the silverado
It works so I'm game to see if I can give it some help.




Post# 35871 , Reply# 43   3/26/2008 at 09:40 (5,846 days old) by elux89 ()        

Nut driver/socket wrench: I use a socket wrench to undo the four nuts that hold the plastic motor cover in place.

Not sucking like the silverado, have you tried switching hoses?? Erick recommended looking at Hesco for a hose. I have found that the hoses they have, airflow can somewhat be reduced. I buy the generic swivel hoses ( believe the perfect company makes them??) you can see them at completevac.com or totalvac.com this will give you an idea of what they look like. They sell for around $50. I'm sure once you replace the old braided hoses, you will notice an improvement in both machines, even if one is have some bearing troubles etc.

Vernon


Post# 35876 , Reply# 44   3/26/2008 at 12:08 (5,846 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thanks
I have learned not to test at the hose for suction
I'm just using hand over the cannister neck.
I left a probably great old tank & took my 2100 whn I moved as the 2100 had bit more suction.
Too bad I didn't realize then that the old hose could have made the difference.

They all could use hoses all 3 of them but not going to invest in one til I figure out which one I'll keep.

Could be the 2100 is a real good motor & its got all access & hardly used.

I prefer gray to brown so I never was so thrilled with the Olym
but would like to see inside. It's sucking but I think it could be better.



Post# 35881 , Reply# 45   3/26/2008 at 13:11 (5,846 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Seems the Silverado L power nozzle cameout in 85 so its alater model & probably the not so good motor...
oooh well I needed the PN & I have a good Silverado so will be interesting to compare.

Would have preferred the earlier w pn4A

well live & learn...

This place shows rebuilds



CLICK HERE TO GO TO camelotshadow's LINK


Post# 35888 , Reply# 46   3/26/2008 at 14:40 (5,846 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

read motors are same sucking power but one does run at higher speed...not sure how that affects the motor?
Seems the earleier is easier to fix but maybe not any better or worse.

Still would like to uncloak the Silverado Mystery...


Post# 35914 , Reply# 47   3/26/2008 at 20:09 (5,845 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Personaly I'd take a slower running motor. They tend to last longer with less wear. The thing you need to consider, is regardless of the type of motor you have it can be made to last by treating it with care.

On the older electrolux canisters that originaly came with woven hoses, a new hose can totaly change the way it will perform. It will be easier to use and have more suction at the hose end. The swivel hoses are probably better but it is more of a cost issue than anything else.

When it comes to the Olympia's color, I can't blame you for not liking it. I think it is my least favorite Electrolux just because of it's color.

While your branching out in your collection, I suggest you diversify you Lux collection a bit. Sure the 1970-1990s models perform great but the models prior to 1968 are fun for many different reasons and deserve consideration.


Post# 35926 , Reply# 48   3/26/2008 at 20:57 (5,845 days old) by logan ()        

Camelotshadow: Is this what your Silverado Deluxe looks like? Here is a picture of mine. I also have the non-deluxe model. From what I have always been told by those in the Electrolux business is that the Silverado originally came with the gray square shape PN4-A (same shape as the PN4 on your Olympia) and when they introduced the so called "deluxe" model they introduced the PN5 as shown in my picture. There was nothing deluxe about it, just a newly designed power nozzle that no one had seen on an Electrolux before. The introduction of the new power nozzle alone gave them the ability to call it "deluxe." Basically just another gimmick to sell more vacuums. I think it worked for them too! I would pick a PN5 over a PN4 any day. The PN5 outcleans the PN4..no question about it. :-) The different style motor in the Silverado did not come out until very late in the Silverado run almost before they quit making them. My deluxe model has the original Silverado motor (same as those found in the Olympia and Super J).

Post# 35927 , Reply# 49   3/26/2008 at 21:00 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

I was looking at the G's quiet & still not too old to be useful & fixable.

Some of the old sleighs are cool too but no bags & rubber deteriorates & will need new wiring to be safe.

I don't really want to collect to collect I want to use them & I have the silverado & its a good dependable machine. I have had a older lux tank but I don't know what it was. May have been a G. We had one even older with the cord winder on the outside I think all I remmeber as a kid is it looked really archaic.

I really want something to groom & fluff this old apt carpet.


Post# 35928 , Reply# 50   3/26/2008 at 21:09 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thanks Logan, that makes me feel a bit better.
I don't care for the PN4 of the olympia as compared to the PN6B of the 2100. Never used a 5A or the 4A.
I do kind of like the narrower 4A style for ease of getting thru narrow places.

I have a deluxe so there is a chance it has the earlier motor before the change.

The one in the mail has the PN5A & its good news to me that it still has a chance of being the good motor.

Unfortunately I have seen a few Silverado Deluxes with the P4A so that might throw out your PN5A intro theory as the reason...



Post# 35931 , Reply# 51   3/26/2008 at 21:13 (5,845 days old) by logan ()        

Regarding my theory, remember the Silverado is over 20 years old now and the power nozzle you see with the machines may not be the original one that came with the vacuum. I have seen many vacuum shops take the deluxe Silverado and piece it together with a PN4, PN4A, etc. Just a thought...

Post# 35932 , Reply# 52   3/26/2008 at 21:13 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
Correction above I meant PN5 not 5A

Still if there are Silverado Deluxe with the old square PN4A which was nice in the sense it was metal then wouldn't that mean that the deluxe did not come from the introduction of the PN 5...

Is the PN5 really a better nozzle than the 4A???

I was going to get a 4A just to be correct & I think metal is more sturdy


Post# 35933 , Reply# 53   3/26/2008 at 21:17 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
That could be

true but I have seen alot & it could be that the pn5 was not as durable as the PN4A which is my thought so perhaps thats when the older pn 4A came in as a replacement if the pn 5 case got cracked or other problem. Still the PN6B I have is a tough plastic though it was built in 89/90

Post# 35934 , Reply# 54   3/26/2008 at 21:21 (5,845 days old) by lux1521 ()        

The PN5 has more power (1.8aamp vs. 1.2amp) and better edge cleaning. The gaps from the brush roll opening to the edge to the nozzle are smaller.

The PN5 and PN6 are about the same from a durablity stand point. I have heard the PN5 has a weaker brush roll holder that can crack if you get something jammed in it.


Post# 35936 , Reply# 55   3/26/2008 at 21:27 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
Back to serial #'s

Vernon posted
":Well guys, so much for the lux repair manual that I have access to that says serial# p-15000-r and above have the newer style motor that Erick has posted above (left one). The one I have starts with p-165__-x, and it has the super j motor"

My silverado deluxe ser # is P84975X
My Olympia ser # starts with a K
not sure how they went from K to P
but my 2100 starts with a F so maybe they are going backwards?

LOL


Post# 35937 , Reply# 56   3/26/2008 at 21:28 (5,845 days old) by logan ()        

Yes the PN5 is much better than any of the PN4's. But I am talking about cleaning ability, not durability. :-) The PN4's will be around a lot longer than the PN5's that for sure, but they just don't clean as good.

Post# 35940 , Reply# 57   3/26/2008 at 21:32 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
Oppps I overlooked the Amps

& its true about the edge cleaning as the 4 bottom plate has alot of metal so it can't pick up the edge too well.
I do like the performace of the 6B over the 4 & now that you mention it I guess the Amos are different.

I have used the PN6B on my silverado with no problems was that a bad thing? Did they have to change the silverado to take the 1.8 Amps or will a early silverado have no problem with .6 amps more?


Oh well. I got a PN5A coming so I'm happy...


Post# 35943 , Reply# 58   3/26/2008 at 21:33 (5,845 days old) by logan ()        

You should be happy! You will love it I'm sure! :-)

Post# 35945 , Reply# 59   3/26/2008 at 21:39 (5,845 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Basicly all Lux PNs are interchangeable. You can even use a PN5 or 6 or 7 with a old model G if you wanted to.

Post# 35947 , Reply# 60   3/26/2008 at 21:41 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
Yes, My Silverado has waited a long time for its PN

My Silverado deluxe was a salvation army find so it came pretty bare. Not even sure if it came with anything but the hose but I think strangely enough it came with 2 wands & a floor tool that had a grey plastic piece inserted into a olympia floor attachment as its beige w brown underneath...

Odd that I had the floor tool before I picked up the Olympia also thrift shop & it only came w the brown PN4 so between the two I had my attachments though not matching colors.

so now the silverado will have its own power nozzle & floor tool...& a spare vac for parts

Now I just wonder what motors they have.



Post# 35949 , Reply# 61   3/26/2008 at 21:56 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thought I was getting the floor tool...oooh well, I guess I was wrong...you know you look at so many you go ga ga...
but even the hose looks good & parts these days are so $,
Seems easier to get the vacs then the accessories


Post# 35959 , Reply# 62   3/26/2008 at 23:14 (5,845 days old) by elux89 ()        

I agree that the PN 5, 6, 7 etc, have improved edge cleaning. In regards to cleaning ability, I feel that we're better off with a 12 inch wide unit than a 15 (both identically designed) in that air velocity at the head is increased with the 12, causing better dirt pickup. Lux builds a great PN, but if you want a nozzle that eats them for breakfast in my opinion, buy a 12 inch Lindhaus and use it on your lux. The cleaning ability is greatly improved, not that the lux is any slouch to start with.

Vernon


Post# 35970 , Reply# 63   3/27/2008 at 00:49 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Know what you mean if identical pull is applied then the force exerted on the 12 in would be greater than on a 15 inch wide path but thats in part because of resistance of the narrower path. They should compensate 4 the additional width. Anyway the additional passing over the 3 inches may just cancel out any benefits of additional pull...

Sorry been a while since I studied physics


Post# 36033 , Reply# 64   3/27/2008 at 14:42 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
PN4 Olympia

Noticed the PN4 square is different on the top of the case
On the PN4 there is a high spot on the front case that goes all the way across the back but it's only half way on PN4A.

Was this a better change?
Is there any significant diff bet a PN 4 & PN4A?


Post# 36034 , Reply# 65   3/27/2008 at 14:46 (5,845 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Just the case changed. It was part of a gradual evolution to the L shaped PN5. It allows half of the nozzle to get under lower objects. Aside from that I am unaware of any other differences.

Post# 36035 , Reply# 66   3/27/2008 at 14:51 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Thanks, still have yet to find some time to try to get inside the olympia...It's on the surgery table waitng....

Hey, have a great day!


Post# 36056 , Reply# 67   3/27/2008 at 17:34 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
Darn...Got Cordwinder out but motor nuts are so deep!

I have a socket set in car with extenders but think longest is 3 inches..

So had to close up patient again

Darn.,....

Your right a nut driver like the screwdriver kind would be great
I have a 1/4" but its too big
& can't estimate size

Well back to the drawing board!



Post# 36058 , Reply# 68   3/27/2008 at 17:44 (5,845 days old) by lux1521 ()        

The nuts in there are 3/8 inch. That is the socket size you will need once you get a tool long enough to reach them.

Post# 36059 , Reply# 69   3/27/2008 at 17:49 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Vernon has a ser # with p-165__-x, and it has the super j motor"

My silverado deluxe ser # is P84975X
don't know what motor yet

I am spying a Silverado Deluxe ser # S60198D

S is along way from P so depending on how many they made there's a good chance that its got the crapy motor?

My Olympia is a K so it did go from K to before P when it is supposed the motor change happened around serial number P155

Still P to S is alot of production & if the Silverado had the new motor at the very end of production something might not add up?


Post# 36072 , Reply# 70   3/27/2008 at 18:05 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
3/8?

oooh thanks
I might just buy a nutdriver for it
That saves me time fumbling around....

3/8?

you sure

I have a 5/16 nut driver & it looks so big

The nuts in there were smaller than the 1/4" nut driver I have.
Maybe its a different casing?


Post# 36073 , Reply# 71   3/27/2008 at 18:09 (5,845 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Is this top part of a screw? Hope its not a bolt
Still think it will be harder to get them back in as I can see the screw falling all over unless it was magnatized & stuck to the socket.

Arrgh


Post# 36075 , Reply# 72   3/27/2008 at 18:21 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

so in your pic on the left motor
are those the screws that go throu the plastic shield into the motor? R the things sticking out midway down the carbon brush holders?

I imagine I could try to estimate the length of the motor from the plastic housing to approx where the bag holder would be?
well maybe maybe not as it could be just a inch difference & maybe not too obvious.

Still I would think the portion inside by the cord wonder would be that metal encased part.
If I measured that I might be able to estimate the back motor size

Arrgh what was I thinking
thats the Olympia so it has to be the J motor

I might just open the silverado & compare that section inside the cord winder to the Olymp to see if there is a difference?


Post# 36077 , Reply# 73   3/27/2008 at 18:22 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
sorry I meant right motor must be getting dyslexic...

Well better eat
think I;m getting light headed here...LOIL


Post# 36097 , Reply# 74   3/27/2008 at 19:14 (5,844 days old) by lux1521 ()        

The bolts your looking at go around where I put the red marks in the picture below. The angle you see in this picture is what you will see when the plastic cover is removed. Anyway, I'm in the process of getting clever and developing a method to tell which motor is in it without taking it apart. Check back later tonight for more info.

Post# 36101 , Reply# 75   3/27/2008 at 20:44 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
Yeah, Sherlock Vac...We;ll be waiting!!!!

Thanks, I had thought it was the other way well of course that's maybe the way it is motor then fan. I figured fan would be behind the bag compt...

Cool, spill those beans when you can
but I do want to see if I can see whats up with the olympia as the silverado definitely sucks better & I would suppose they should be the same & its not the hose as I am testing as the mouth.


Post# 36108 , Reply# 76   3/27/2008 at 21:16 (5,844 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Ok, heres the deal. The Olympia and Silverado had different bag chambers than the later ones. The Super J motor sits about 1/2 inch behind the bag chamber. The later motors have a tunnel about 2 inches long that goes to the motor. If the bag chamber in your Olympia is the same as your Silverado then the Silverado has the Super J motor.

Give that a try.


Post# 36113 , Reply# 77   3/27/2008 at 21:47 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
It's the same! well you tell me?

Plastic in Olympia is a bit more yellowed
Silverado plastic more cream colored & the insides are identical.

Well least in size
but don't they have to be to accept the bag?

Well here's a pic

Please clearify
To me they look the same but screen is different at bottom

?????


Post# 36114 , Reply# 78   3/27/2008 at 21:52 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
door latch is better on olympia

I think I'm going to switch it to my Silverado

hehehehe

Soooo...what do I have?


Post# 36115 , Reply# 79   3/27/2008 at 21:53 (5,844 days old) by lux1521 ()        

If its only the screen thats different then I'd say that both machines have the Super J motor. As long as the screens are in the same position, and the one on the Silverado is no deeper than the Olympia one then it is definatly a Super J motor.

Post# 36117 , Reply# 80   3/27/2008 at 22:11 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Doesn't look deeper but are we talking how much?

going to measure hace to get something to to fit thru the screen & be a depth guage...

there about the same as far as I can tell
say within a mm or 2


Post# 36120 , Reply# 81   3/27/2008 at 22:24 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

I measured from bottom of motor under screen up to the top of the plastic fin
That distance is the same

Your saying the bag compartment could be longer in the silverado & that other distance the same?

OK Going back for another look

OK bag compt lengths are same too

So that's good!

I knew my Silverado had a good heart

LOL



Post# 36122 , Reply# 82   3/27/2008 at 22:47 (5,844 days old) by lux1521 ()        

I'd say you have a good one. The difference would be no less than 1 inch. If it's within a few sixteenths then its the same.

Post# 36123 , Reply# 83   3/27/2008 at 22:54 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

YEAH!!!!!!

Thanks

Now it has an olympia door close mech
That part on the olympia is much better than the Silverado!

Yikes things went down hill in the 80's



Post# 36125 , Reply# 84   3/27/2008 at 23:06 (5,844 days old) by elux89 ()        

Erick,
Unfortunately I don't have a Silverado with the LF motor to compare the length at the end of the bag chamber. I did go and check my Ultralux Classics, and I see what you mean by how far back the motor sits in it as compared to the Silverado and SJ. Too bad most of these weren't sold in Canada. So, this little boy went to the lux service manuals, here are the part numbers listed for the bag chambers Olympia 41961, Silverado 43114, all 1521 models 42841.

We just might have to nominate you for the Nobel Prize in vacuum cleaner engineering and design!!

Vernon


Post# 36127 , Reply# 85   3/27/2008 at 23:21 (5,844 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
Dr Lux & Mr Silverado...

Nobel Vac Prize Nominee

LOL


Post# 36303 , Reply# 86   3/29/2008 at 14:19 (5,843 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
Hey, hows this for Shadowvac Holmes? LOL

WHAT NOT TO WANT:
LOOK AT THE FRANKENSTEIN

1505 has a
olympia cordwinder
olympiatop plastic
olympia rear cordwinder
olympia bag compartment

this has been peiced together from the graveyard

appears wiring has been screwed up
probably just crossed
& most likely it has the olympia motor

So that is probably the only way to fix the newer silverados

just switch the entire motor & assembly

Note you can see the olympia screen style
note the darker yellowed bag comparment

Hehehehehe

OOOOH & it;s serial # STARTS with S
I am suspecting that S serial # silverados have the newer motor





CLICK HERE TO GO TO camelotshadow's LINK on eBay


Post# 36304 , Reply# 87   3/29/2008 at 14:21 (5,843 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
One other observation

Power nozzle is ????
PN2

probable has bottom of a PN2 but top is PN4A
& who knows what the heck they did with the guts in that!


Post# 36305 , Reply# 88   3/29/2008 at 14:43 (5,843 days old) by lux1521 ()        

It looks like it has all Silverado stuff to me. The plastic parts can get yellowed after many years and they all start to look the same. The wiring sounds very screwed up. The PN is not a PN2, it is a PN4A. The is no way to switch a top and bottom between the two.

It sounds interesting, and might be a good deal for parts if you want a spare PN, motor, and a few other things.


Post# 36306 , Reply# 89   3/29/2008 at 14:57 (5,843 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

notice the inside bag compt is a different color than the liner around it.
No I'm sure of one thing that the bag compt with the motor screen was switched.

Look at the pics of my oly & silverado bag compt & compare it to the one pictured here

I can see the cord is beige as well as the back of the unit which holds the cord winder.

I';m not saying its not good for parts
just that this is really a frankenvac!

Wonder why hed list PN2 if it said pn4A

no big deal & he's being honest about the wierd wiring.


Post# 36308 , Reply# 90   3/29/2008 at 15:00 (5,843 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
see a difference?

these are my bag comp
notice the one above has 2 different colors inside


Post# 36310 , Reply# 91   3/29/2008 at 15:11 (5,843 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Interesting. I don't know why that would be. It is all one piece so part of it must have been exposed to something the other part was not.

Post# 36312 , Reply# 92   3/29/2008 at 15:14 (5,843 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

you sure its one piece?
Anyway I still feel the one with the small square screen cover is the olympia bag compartment.

Could be possible my silverado bag compt is weird?

Anyone else have one like mine?
see the different screen


Post# 36315 , Reply# 93   3/29/2008 at 15:25 (5,843 days old) by lux1521 ()        

I'm starting to think the Silverado has a number of incosistencys. I have a feeling they gradualy modified that model through its run. This tendency can be seen in nearly every Electrolux model and I'm betting the Silverado is no different.

Post# 36318 , Reply# 94   3/29/2008 at 15:34 (5,843 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Well its an S serial # so it should be a later Silverado model as mine is a P

Still it doesn't mean that someone couldn't switch the front swivel wheel part as that holds the serial number...

LOL

Back to the drawing board!

LOL


Post# 36323 , Reply# 95   3/29/2008 at 15:50 (5,843 days old) by elux89 ()        

My Silverado has the plastic screen, with a completely dingy yellow coloring. What I've noticed is that my Ultralux Classics, the chamber is more of a white color, and the plastic doesn't seems to be as brittle. Is that from age, or a different type of plastic material?? Erick, have you noticed this??

Vernon


Post# 36325 , Reply# 96   3/29/2008 at 15:59 (5,843 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Yeah, the Ultralux plastic is quite white, and almost transparent in some cases. It should also be noted at this point that the Ultralux has a white motor cover and not gray, and has rubber covering of the back of the cordwinder and not painted metal. They are quite different.

Post# 36326 , Reply# 97   3/29/2008 at 16:10 (5,843 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

I'd say the circular plastic screen guard was the Silverado design.
The square metal screen Olympia.
I think that Silverado model with the screwed up wiring has the olympia screen & I think that bag compt maybe even motor was changed


Post# 36378 , Reply# 98   3/29/2008 at 22:30 (5,842 days old) by lux1521 ()        

If the bag case is original then it is probably an early Silverado.


While we are talking about colors and the Ultralux Classic, I though I'd post a picture of one I had a few months back. It must be one of the coolest looking Electrolux models ever.


Post# 36400 , Reply# 99   3/29/2008 at 23:38 (5,842 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Oh I don't know anymore...
Hey why would my olympia not suck as strong as the silverado?
Motor works...what makes the degrees of suction?
If I had a nut driver I'd see what I could see but who knows
where to start
Not like I'm in love w the olympia.

The silverado is my daily cannister & has been for years

I'm getting a Kirby & Filter Queen
will see how they compare


Post# 36404 , Reply# 100   3/30/2008 at 00:05 (5,842 days old) by elux89 ()        

Erick,
The blue Ultralux Classic is one "classy looking act" to follow. I've got three.

Christine,
In regards to why one has more suction than the other??? There could be a difference in bearing wear/play between the two, maybe one needs a commutator stone taken to the armature, cleaning it up and re-seating the brushes?? And speaking of brushes, what shape are they in??

Vernon


Post# 36415 , Reply# 101   3/30/2008 at 00:45 (5,842 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Haven't got the nut driver to take out the motor yet
Don't know if its worth it
but I want to see whats up with it
if nothing eles to learn

I know brishes are sort of magnet looking things
Don't know what they do but know they wear down

I was peaking at my Royals

Hey, do you know there is sparkinginside my Royal motor when running
Do brishes spark?


Post# 36417 , Reply# 102   3/30/2008 at 01:13 (5,842 days old) by elux89 ()        

Yes, brushes will spark/arc. But, the determining factor is how much spark do you see. If it's like a constant glow, don't worry, if it looks like a gas well going off, houston, you have a problem!

Post# 36420 , Reply# 103   3/30/2008 at 01:26 (5,842 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Not sure whats sparking
but when I peak in the case I can see sparking...
From the our=tsid looking in I think the brushes are short
maybe 1/4 inc
but can't see if I'm seeing everything

The Royal is working
no wierd noise

Wish I knew more

I do love to make things better
Dr Vac
but mostly my skills are clean & unclog

Still if I can make them better
I sure would love to oblige


Post# 36448 , Reply# 104   3/30/2008 at 10:21 (5,842 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Probably you only see the small amount of brush because the rest is setting in a holder. They will always glow some but if it is giving off a lot of sparks then there could be a problem.

Post# 36459 , Reply# 105   3/30/2008 at 12:40 (5,842 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Was surprised to see sparks inside
looked like something out of the old worlds fair GE lightning house.
Not a glow I could see shirt thread like sparks
Don't know if its the brushes but its in that area

Guess will have to do a exploratory on the Royal
Good thing is it looks like the case comes off easier.

I would think they would have to sit in a holder of some sort so seeing some brush means theres some left

Are brushes spring sensitive?
They are held with a spring & there is a nut that pushes on them from the outside
I replaced it only til it set
didn't want to go extra tight on that part.

What attention would a sparking brush need?
Cleaning was mentioned above on the armature?

Bummer right now I have a few projects & darn if I have to add a vac lobotomy to it...LOL

but I'm curious & also don't want to do any harm by using it


Post# 36484 , Reply# 106   3/30/2008 at 15:28 (5,842 days old) by lux1521 ()        

It looks like I'm going to do a lesson on all things carbon brushes tonight. I'll make sure my camera batteries are charged and I'll be back in a few hours to explain everything.

Post# 36486 , Reply# 107   3/30/2008 at 16:00 (5,842 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        
OOOOh pics...

ooooh Goody!

THANKS!

its sort of fine thread sparking
not like a torch...or rocket plume
LOL

Just scared me as I viewed it while peering inside the case in a dark room so maybe its norml I hope


Post# 36487 , Reply# 108   3/30/2008 at 16:03 (5,842 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

Gosh it would be pretty funny to have a nitro vac with fire pluming out of the back...

LOL


Post# 36488 , Reply# 109   3/30/2008 at 16:12 (5,842 days old) by lux1521 ()        

Vacuum up gasoline and thats exactly what happens. It's not a new concept.

Don't try it!!!


Post# 36973 , Reply# 110   4/2/2008 at 14:44 (5,839 days old) by camelotshadow (Valley Village)        

P143374X is here!
My silverado w pn5
just getting it set up

PN works though wheels are shot & sqeaky
that came yesterday swivel had sand in it & I had to open the case & clean it

cleaned the fan blades too..

So this is a early Silverado?
I got 2 starting with P & ending with X
How odd???


Post# 283282 , Reply# 111   6/5/2014 at 11:26 (3,584 days old) by joevacman1 (Valley Stream New york 11581)        
Silverado Motor

joevacman1's profile picture
The original silverado used the same Super J / Olympia One Motor. With the introduction of the Diamond Jubilee in Oct 1983 for the 50th ann. (Similar to cars being introduced the Oct before for next years model)and October being a traditional "Drive Month" for Electrolux Salesman , Electrolux produced a special run of Silverdao's at a "special price' to promote sales. In this special run the Silverado received certain changes , most prominent being the new designed DJ motor which was made in house I believe. I guess the Older Super J/Olympia motor was no longer being manufactured. Another change I remember was the plastic cordwinder housing as on the DJ.
Have any questions
Call me at 718-723-2138
I have worked on these machines for over 40 years
Joe V & J Vacuums
I WOULD LOVE TO HERE FROM YOU.



Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

Woops, Time to Check the Bag!!!
Either you need to change your vacuum bag or you forgot to LOG-IN?

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy