kirby sani 7 bearing

Dan I feel your reply is miss-guiding as my process is tested and absolutely works! To support my process/video, I have the actual hands-on experience of personally removing/installing 50 front bearing plate bearings in the 505 thru Classic machines and removed/installed 75 front bearing plate bearings from Omega thru G series using the tool in the video all within the last 2 months (not to mention I followed the same process in the video on all the vacuums in the previous years I worked). And not 1 good bearing was ruined removing/installing them using the Slide Hammer Blind Hole Puller. Have I ruined bearings doing other things to them such as bending the shields when removing them or installing them, hitting the shield using the end of a socket or a knockout punch while installing them = ABSOLUTELY! But not once did I ruin a bearing installing them with the slide hammer� Why did I try using the socket or knockout punch if I know the slide hammer works = well it is a pain in the butt to install it into the bearing when you are doing many of them over and over.

What is miss-guiding about your reply?
A.) �The proper thing to use is an installer "ring" that pushes on the outer race only� The problem with your mentioned �installer "ring"� which I believe the tool you were referring to is really called a �Bearing Race Driver� or �Bearing Driver�, is the drivers are meant for use on bearings where the bearing are 2 separate pieces (the Outer race (also called outer ring or cup) is one piece and Inner race (also called inner ring or cone) is another piece. The bearing driver is then used to pound in typically the outer race of the bearing into the mounting hole and then the inner race is placed inside the outer race. If you can tell me about a bearing driver that equally applies pressure to the inner and outer race/bore which fits all or some of the different sizes of vacuum cleaner bearings please share that information with us as I have never seen such a tool and I would purchase it as that tool would be the ultimate bearing installation tool.

B.) �But if a hammer only is used at least the blows are on the outer race and not the parts that matter to the life of the bearing� you should never use hammers or drift pins/punches/etc directly on the surface of the bearing. If a hammer must be used to mount the bearing, apply pressure to a drive block, adapter sleeve, pipe or tube which covers the entire race of the bearing

C.) It sounds like you like you think stress is not created on the race of a bearing when installing them. Installing the bearing definitely causes momentary stress to a bearing no matter what tool is used to install the bearing as force is being applied to it. However if you damage the cage and/or ball and/or shield (if the bearing has a dust shield) this damage will cause sustained stress/heat when the bearing is in use and damaging any of these parts will eventually make the bearing fail.

I guess I am saying:

A. No matter what tool you choose to use when installing the bearing, ALWAYS test the bearing to make sure you have smooth rotation by first rotating the assembly with your hand and you can verify it even further by turning on the vacuum to see if bearing whining noise is heard.

B. If you have a known process that works and you can back-up your process with actual results then please post a video for us to view or tell us your process as I would like to learn from you...

For those who want to carry the bearing subject even further for discussion:

A.) The process used to hold in the front bearing on the 500 series - Classic machine is based up a number of points/metal tabs to hold in the bearing� The problem with securing the front bearing is faulty in design. Essentially it is a burr holding in the bearing which can cause a corresponding burr/high spot in the race. The high spot then will cause the load to concentrate in these small areas. If the roller continues to hit this area, premature bearing failure will result. Additionally, if the outside race fits too loosely, the race will turn during operation and this will wear down the housing, and change the bearing adjustment/alignment.

B.) Safe bearing removal tools include: 1.). arbor press. 2.) jaw-type pullers that grip parts by their press-fit edges. 3.). push-pullers which use forcing screws to push or pull bearings out of their housing. 4.) Slide hammer pullers with a weighted sliding handle which strikes a �stop� on its own rod and removes parts from blind holes.

C.) Safe bearing installation tools appear to be up for further discussion and I hope to learn from someone about this.

View Full Size


Forum Topics & Rules Manuals & Literature	New users Click-here to sign-up

Post# 325834 5/26/2015 at 22:09 (3,251 days old) by vacuumssuck213 ()
Checkrate/Likes hey guys, had a quick question a bearing on my Kirby sani 7 needs servicing so two part question. A. should i attempt it myself? and B. how do i do it? step by step would be helpful thanks.

Post# 325856 , Reply# 1 5/27/2015 at 10:58 (3,250 days old) by Jeschbac (Texas)
Checkrate/Likes *YouTube* Check YouTube videos. Do you have access to a bearing puller? It's not that hard after watching a few videos.

Post# 325869 , Reply# 2 5/27/2015 at 16:41 (3,250 days old) by chicagomike (Plover, WI)
Checkrate/Likes *Bearings* If you do not own the tools, I would have someone do them for you. But if you want to learn how to do it and have some $ to buy the tools well use the video link. CLICK HERE TO GO TO chicagomike's LINK

Post# 325870 , Reply# 3 5/27/2015 at 16:42 (3,250 days old) by chicagomike (Plover, WI)
Checkrate/Likes more links CLICK HERE TO GO TO chicagomike's LINK

Post# 325871 , Reply# 4 5/27/2015 at 16:44 (3,250 days old) by chicagomike (Plover, WI)
Checkrate/Likes more links. CLICK HERE TO GO TO chicagomike's LINK

Post# 325882 , Reply# 5 5/27/2015 at 20:06 (3,250 days old) by Jeschbac (Texas)
Checkrate/Likes *These videos* are incredibly good. No one does it like Chicago Mike!

Post# 326010 , Reply# 6 5/29/2015 at 08:42 (3,249 days old) by dangt ()
Checkrate/Likes 1 That is the guy that uses the expanding bearing puller with a slide hammer, right? That tool , as I've seen someone else say I think on this forum, is for pulling bearings out of blind holes, not for installation. By using it to install the front bearing, stress is being placed on the balls and races. The proper thing to use is an installer "ring" that pushes on the outer race only. An arbor press might be best but if a hammer only is used at least the blows are on the outer race and not the parts that matter to the life of the bearing.

Post# 326029 , Reply# 7 5/29/2015 at 13:49 (3,248 days old) by chicagomike (Plover, WI)
Checkrate/Likes *Reply to Dan* Dan I feel your reply is miss-guiding as my process is tested and absolutely works! To support my process/video, I have the actual hands-on experience of personally removing/installing 50 front bearing plate bearings in the 505 thru Classic machines and removed/installed 75 front bearing plate bearings from Omega thru G series using the tool in the video all within the last 2 months (not to mention I followed the same process in the video on all the vacuums in the previous years I worked). And not 1 good bearing was ruined removing/installing them using the Slide Hammer Blind Hole Puller. Have I ruined bearings doing other things to them such as bending the shields when removing them or installing them, hitting the shield using the end of a socket or a knockout punch while installing them = ABSOLUTELY! But not once did I ruin a bearing installing them with the slide hammer� Why did I try using the socket or knockout punch if I know the slide hammer works = well it is a pain in the butt to install it into the bearing when you are doing many of them over and over. What is miss-guiding about your reply? A.) �The proper thing to use is an installer "ring" that pushes on the outer race only� The problem with your mentioned �installer "ring"� which I believe the tool you were referring to is really called a �Bearing Race Driver� or �Bearing Driver�, is the drivers are meant for use on bearings where the bearing are 2 separate pieces (the Outer race (also called outer ring or cup) is one piece and Inner race (also called inner ring or cone) is another piece. The bearing driver is then used to pound in typically the outer race of the bearing into the mounting hole and then the inner race is placed inside the outer race. If you can tell me about a bearing driver that equally applies pressure to the inner and outer race/bore which fits all or some of the different sizes of vacuum cleaner bearings please share that information with us as I have never seen such a tool and I would purchase it as that tool would be the ultimate bearing installation tool. B.) �But if a hammer only is used at least the blows are on the outer race and not the parts that matter to the life of the bearing� you should never use hammers or drift pins/punches/etc directly on the surface of the bearing. If a hammer must be used to mount the bearing, apply pressure to a drive block, adapter sleeve, pipe or tube which covers the entire race of the bearing C.) It sounds like you like you think stress is not created on the race of a bearing when installing them. Installing the bearing definitely causes momentary stress to a bearing no matter what tool is used to install the bearing as force is being applied to it. However if you damage the cage and/or ball and/or shield (if the bearing has a dust shield) this damage will cause sustained stress/heat when the bearing is in use and damaging any of these parts will eventually make the bearing fail. I guess I am saying: A. No matter what tool you choose to use when installing the bearing, ALWAYS test the bearing to make sure you have smooth rotation by first rotating the assembly with your hand and you can verify it even further by turning on the vacuum to see if bearing whining noise is heard. B. If you have a known process that works and you can back-up your process with actual results then please post a video for us to view or tell us your process as I would like to learn from you... For those who want to carry the bearing subject even further for discussion: A.) The process used to hold in the front bearing on the 500 series - Classic machine is based up a number of points/metal tabs to hold in the bearing� The problem with securing the front bearing is faulty in design. Essentially it is a burr holding in the bearing which can cause a corresponding burr/high spot in the race. The high spot then will cause the load to concentrate in these small areas. If the roller continues to hit this area, premature bearing failure will result. Additionally, if the outside race fits too loosely, the race will turn during operation and this will wear down the housing, and change the bearing adjustment/alignment. B.) Safe bearing removal tools include: 1.). arbor press. 2.) jaw-type pullers that grip parts by their press-fit edges. 3.). push-pullers which use forcing screws to push or pull bearings out of their housing. 4.) Slide hammer pullers with a weighted sliding handle which strikes a �stop� on its own rod and removes parts from blind holes. C.) Safe bearing installation tools appear to be up for further discussion and I hope to learn from someone about this. View Full Size

Post# 326111 , Reply# 8 5/30/2015 at 13:21 (3,247 days old) by dangt ()
Checkrate/Likes 1 My post was very brief but not miss-guided. I may have given the wrong impression about the use of the hammer to drive in the front bearing.......don't hammer directly on the bearing race as chicagomike points out. Use an installer "spacer", disc , ring, socket, or pad that is of the correct size with a relief in the center to clear the inner race and seals. Trouble with using sockets is the shape at the end you would place against the bearing is usually not flat. The whole trouble is finding or making a driving pad that is the correct size and pushes against only the outer race of the bearing and does not itself get stuck in the housing. I'll try to take some pictures of some alternative bearing installer pads. During my 25 years in automotive repair I dealt with hundreds of similar bearings in mostly ancilliary components like alternators and belt tensioners and clutch pilot bearings. The only two Kirbys I have replaced bearings in were not actually very tight, compared to some I've seen in other applications. Care must be taken when even using a proper sized pad to drive or push the bearing into place but it is possible to do so and not damage any parts. Actually, my own arbor press is too small to use on the front bearing of my Classic III but even a drill press can be used as a press, especially to get the bearing started straight in the housing.