Thread Number: 22435
Getting tail section off vintage Kenmore Commander
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Post# 251288   9/25/2013 at 12:18 (3,837 days old) by gpracer89 ()        

Hi All,

Can someone tell me how to get the tail section/motor assembly off of a Kenmore Commander; nameplate 116.732, serial #116.495. I have taken off all visible fasteners, but can't get it to budge. Don't want to break anything.

Thanks Much,

Greg


Post# 251438 , Reply# 1   9/27/2013 at 09:54 (3,835 days old) by gpracer89 ()        

Hi,

Can anybody help? Would appreciate it!


Post# 251444 , Reply# 2   9/27/2013 at 14:12 (3,835 days old) by kenkart ()        
Im not sure..

I will try to look at my Ken Kart and see, its the same basic machine..

Post# 251500 , Reply# 3   9/28/2013 at 09:20 (3,834 days old) by gpracer89 ()        

Thanks!

Post# 252031 , Reply# 4   10/4/2013 at 15:36 (3,828 days old) by gpracer89 ()        

Anybody have any luck???

Post# 252138 , Reply# 5   10/5/2013 at 20:39 (3,827 days old) by hygiene903 (Galion, OH)        
Greg,

hygiene903's profile picture
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, had to do some digging to find this complete step by step motorectomy for a Kenmore. I had bought one off ebay several years ago that was a little rough, and received another one from a fellow collector with the instructions to build the best one I could with the two, then send an empty tank shell back to him. So I ended up with a fairly nice Kenmore tank with an extra motor, switch, and cord. In order to return an empty shell, I had to remove the motor from the one I sent back, and pretty much figured it out as I went along. He asked me to send him the procedure in step by step form which I did, and fortunately saved the email. Wanted to make sure I still had it--and could find it, before I responded to your thread. So here it is, and a pic of my Kenmore (model 116.730).
Jeff

TEARDOWN PROCEDURE FOR KENMORE TANK

1.Remove nosecone, bag, and filter (if there is one--it is missing on some that I have run across--including the one my folks had when I was a kid!)

2.Using a 1/4" socket and as many extensions as you can get a hold of, remove the 8 screws from the front mount assembly (inside the tank)

3.Using the tube that comes with the can, apply a shot of WD-40 all the way around the fan housing where it meets the mounting assembly.

4.Remove the screw from the switch cover (behind the handle) and remove the cover.

5.Remove the 3 screws from the rear end, then remove the rear end.

6.Disconnect cord and remove.

7.Using a thin wall 9/16 socket, 9/16 wrench, or pliers,loosen nut on top of the switch and remove switch from rear end. At this point the rear end can be set aside.

8.By holding onto the rear mount and working the motor back & forth, side to side, up and down, and some twisting it should eventually work loose from the front mount, and be easily pulled out the back. Don't get too forceful with it, use some (lots!! of) patience and you should be able to remove it without any damage to it or yourself.

A bit of hindsight here--I DO NOT recommend removing the 4 screws from the rear mounting plate. I found out the hard way, that not only do they hold the plate to the motor, but they also HOLD THE MOTOR TOGETHER!! So, do not remove them or you will end up with field coil in one hand and armature in the other!!!

It's possible that some of the folks in the club who have worked on vacuums for years might have different ideas on this procedure, but it worked for me, and I think I had it done in about an hour.


Post# 252184 , Reply# 6   10/6/2013 at 10:06 (3,826 days old) by gpracer89 ()        

Thanks very much; I was up to this point, but it seemed so "stuck" I was afraid I was going to break something.

I appreciate your reply!!!


Post# 252308 , Reply# 7   10/7/2013 at 22:19 (3,825 days old) by hygiene903 (Galion, OH)        

hygiene903's profile picture
You're welcome, glad to help!
Jeff



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