Thread Number: 21213
Hoover Turbopower Junior U1100: Wheels needed.
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Post# 237428   6/23/2013 at 13:13 (3,952 days old) by slpj ()        

Hi there.

We've had a Hoover Turbopower Junior U1100 since it was bought way back in the 1980's. It's still going strong.

But the rear wheels are collapsing. I need to know if the wheels on this are compatible with any other models, as I can't find any for the U1100.

Would wheels for the U1104 fit for example?

Hope someone can help, as I dont't want to buy another hoover.

Thanks in advance

slpj


Post# 237463 , Reply# 1   6/23/2013 at 15:25 (3,952 days old) by Turbo500 (West Yorkshire, UK)        

turbo500's profile picture
Hello,

The U1104 is not a Turbopower, it's a standard Junior, so the wheels would not fit. If you can find replacement wheels for any Turbopower, not including Turbopower 2, 3 or 1000, then they will fit.

Hope this helps.

Chris


Post# 237487 , Reply# 2   6/23/2013 at 17:53 (3,952 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Unfortunatly Turbopower Wheels disintegrating is an annoyance I've had personally. It's probably easier to find a complete turbopower and take the wheels, or keep an eye out on ebay. I only have one spare wheel at the moment, and it's dark blue.

If they have only started cracking, then liberal use of some epoxy/evostik may save them, if you pop the front cap off and pretty much fill the wheels up, ensuring they still turn you may save them. Get some superglue and drip it into any cracks, capillary action should fill the cracks. If they really are crumbling then unless you own an injection moulding machine there's not much you can do!

Got any pictures of your Turbopower? Always like to see pictures


Post# 237527 , Reply# 3   6/24/2013 at 03:09 (3,952 days old) by slpj ()        

Hi Chris,

Thanks for that. I've looked, but can't seem to find any. Maybe I'll have to make some in some way.

Do you also know anything about the agitator brushes? Again mine are original. I'm wondering if I should get a new agitator.

Does anyone know how long the brushes are when new? Mine are just under 1mm long, and I'm not sure they are doing a very good brushing job now.


Post# 237528 , Reply# 4   6/24/2013 at 03:31 (3,952 days old) by slpj ()        

Here's a pic or two.

Post# 237529 , Reply# 5   6/24/2013 at 03:33 (3,952 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        
Wheels

On this model of cleaner, the chassis is likely to be as worn out as the wheels. Easy to check; can the wheels be pushed in and out sideways into the cleaner? It was only once the first Turbopower cleaners went on sale and were used by consumers that it was discovered that the wheels were cutting into the chassis. This was remedied by fitting a washer between wheel and chassis , when the cleaner was built at the factory, but as I mentioned before I have seen a good deal of model U2662 which was evidently exempt from this. Either production of this model was well under way before the modification was suggested, or someone on the production line was not doing their job properly.

As you have found, this wheel is now listed by companies as being obsolete now. But I am sure there will be stock around. Have you tried telephoning anyone to ask if stocks remain? I did find a whole cleaner for sale on ebay. It is one of the much later models they did and would have all the modifications to the wheels etc. It would have lots of useful spares on it for you to repair your cleaner. Here is the link.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO vintagerepairer's LINK on eBay


Post# 237530 , Reply# 6   6/24/2013 at 03:34 (3,952 days old) by Turbo500 (West Yorkshire, UK)        

turbo500's profile picture
The "activator" brushroll comes up on spares websites and eBay quite a lot. They're pretty easy to get hold of.

Post# 237532 , Reply# 7   6/24/2013 at 03:40 (3,952 days old) by slpj ()        

Thanks for those replies, and that link to the spares on Ebay.

Here's a pic of the agitator and one wheel. The other wheel is pretty much the same. I looked at the chassis, and that looks ok. The steel pin/shaft is good too. It's just that the hole in the wheels is elongated now, and won't spin.

The agitator might be ok, but I don't know how long the brushes are when new. No point buying one if mine is ok I don't suppose. Do you know how long the brushes are supposed to be?


Post# 237534 , Reply# 8   6/24/2013 at 03:50 (3,952 days old) by slpj ()        

Here's one of the wheel spindle in the chassis.

Post# 237535 , Reply# 9   6/24/2013 at 04:14 (3,952 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        
Chassis

That chassis is at the end of its life too. The surface around the wheel pin should be flat; yours has a large recess where the wheel has rubbed through it, and the gouge to the top of the chassis is where the chassis is due to snap. I am amazed at how long this cleaner has lasted as I've seen damage like this in cleaners less than 10 years old. What is the black on the outside of the wheel? Is it insulation tape?

Post# 237536 , Reply# 10   6/24/2013 at 04:30 (3,952 days old) by slpj ()        

Yup insualting tape. I have a wooden floor the the plastic on the wheels was hard enough to scratch it. So I put some soft tape around the wheels, and that stopped the scratching. I see what you mean about the circular recess at the pin, it's the same on both wheels. I can easily put a washer in there to make it flush again. But I'm not sure I understand the gouge you refer to. I can't flex the chassis anyhwere near the wheels, it feels very strong.

Post# 237538 , Reply# 11   6/24/2013 at 04:35 (3,952 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        

Well around the top of the wheel arch is a gouge, caused by the wheel rubbing against it. On the side shown in the photograph, it's not so much a problem, whereas on the other side it will be as the wheel cuts through the handle release pedal too. It's certainly not worth spending lots of money on this cleaner from a practical point of view, as there will be much more damage to other parts. The turbopower cleaner is a machine designed to wear out in several places, so as to necessitate fewer economical repairs and ultimately a replacement of the whole cleaner. However, if the machine has sentimental value then of course it's worth the expense.

Post# 237539 , Reply# 12   6/24/2013 at 05:01 (3,952 days old) by slpj ()        

Hi there.

No not really sentimental, just a very good hoover that still works. I look after stuff and always make stuff last a very long time. I'm still using a 1983/4 Creda 1000 washing machine. I just replaced the drum bearings for the 1st time. I'm amazed it still goes, but as long as it does, I'll keep it.

Ok now I see what you mean. I took the other wheel off to take a look, and it has a similar gouge. I'd say it's about half way through. So I'll reinforce it. Thanks for pointing that out to me. I'll put a spacer in there too to stop the wheel gouging it again, and try to repair the wheel(s). Worst case I'll make wooden wheels, and put a shaft through the centre of hole as a bearing.

Do you know how long the brushes are supposed to be on the roller? I can't decide if mine are worn short or not? I've found some for sale, but it doesn't give any detail on the brush length.



Post# 237540 , Reply# 13   6/24/2013 at 05:08 (3,952 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        

Not sure on length as in inches or cm, but I always said if you could still feel bristles protruding from the sole plate then there was plenty left. If you're happy to prop-up your cleaner with some newer wheels etc then fair enough. I do think that sourcing a 2nd hand machine to repair yours could be worthwhile though.

Post# 237541 , Reply# 14   6/24/2013 at 05:28 (3,952 days old) by slpj ()        

As long as it has wheels, I don't mind what type especially.

I'm watching the link you gave. But they are collect only, and I'm over a hundred miles away. Not sure how much the collection would be by courier either. I'll see how it goes.

Thanks for the all information so far, and if anybody can add anything feel free.

This is a great website, I had no idea there was so much interest in old hoovers. :).



Post# 237543 , Reply# 15   6/24/2013 at 06:25 (3,952 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Not just "old" hoovers, we like new ones too, and the Americans think its funny that we in the UK call them "hoovers" lol

My old U2332 Turbopower made in 1988 suffered the same problem of the wheels cutting into the chassis, but not as bad as yours, so I took Benny's advice and fitted small washers between the wheels and chassis.

Old Turbopower 1 vacs often come up on EBay, but buying one you do run the risk of getting another with the same problem of wobbly rear wheels. They also seemed to have a problem with tilting backwards when stood upright, due to another design flaw where excessive wear took place on the pivot hinges between the floorhead and the vertical bag holder and handle.

There's one in Surrey on EBay now, A newer Tp1 Junior:



CLICK HERE TO GO TO madabouthoovers's LINK on eBay


Post# 237569 , Reply# 16   6/24/2013 at 10:31 (3,952 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

I'd say that looks saveable (depending on what the other wheel is like!)

The chassis looks fine to me, seen worse. You could always epoxy an appropriate size washer to the chassis around the spindle so it rubs on that from now on. You could even glue washers on either side of the wheel where the spindle should go to stop anymore wear. Plaster some epoxy around the inside of the wheel, and maybe renew the tape on the outside and it should see it intact for a few more years! I have one wheel in dark blue, was painted and off a recon machine. I had to use the other one as I got a TP that was missing one completely.

You are welcome to my spare wheel, or if I get hold of any scrap vacs I'll nab them off for you.

Nice turbopower too, The soft-bagged are my preference! Got 6 now!


Post# 237571 , Reply# 17   6/24/2013 at 10:41 (3,952 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Oh, and the agitator bristles look the right length for it, but if it's the original one it will be soft by now, and the belt will be scrap.

Having put fresh belts and a NOS agitator on one of my machines, it makes the world of difference. Even a new belt at the minimum is a must if it's not been done in the last year or so!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hoover-Turbo-J...

and

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hoover-V7-Flat...

will restore performance to almost out of the box. Gove your agitator bearings a quick clean up, pull any hair out and a few drops of oil when you swap.

Maybe best to fix your wheels first though, otherwise all that is pretty redundant! A quick cif session will get rid of those marks on the front of the hood, be careful of the lettering though.


Post# 237665 , Reply# 18   6/25/2013 at 03:56 (3,951 days old) by slpj ()        

Thanks for those additional replies. I have now have a few more options.

The other wheel isn't quite so bad, and following the advice above, I reckon I could fix it. Thanks for the offer beko1987, I'll email you.

That service kit looks good.

No the belt isn't original, I changed the belt recently and still have a spare one. But the roler and brush drum is 30 years old.

The problem I have, is that despite good suction, bits of cotton and the like just don't pick up any more. Just as if the brushes aren't long enough to scrape them off the carpet. So I wondered if the brushes were worn out, and having nothing to compare them too I can't tell. But being 30 years old, i thought they must have worn down.


Post# 237666 , Reply# 19   6/25/2013 at 04:08 (3,951 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Sounds like they have just gone soft, they are quite stiff when new, certainly drags everything out of the carpet!

Post# 238696 , Reply# 20   7/3/2013 at 04:21 (3,943 days old) by slpj ()        
Incorrect drive belt I think

Hi,

Having read the above, I looked at my drive belts again. I think I may have the wrong type. Mine belts are genuine hoover 38528507. However, when I checked the models this fits, U1100 isn't included in the fit list.

Hoover Part No 09020165 seems to be the correct number.

Can someone tell me the correct dimensions of the belts.

Mine are 11mm wide and 17mm long.


Post# 238697 , Reply# 21   7/3/2013 at 05:20 (3,943 days old) by Turbo500 (West Yorkshire, UK)        

turbo500's profile picture
On doing a bit of digging around, part number 38528507 seems to be the drive belts for the US Soverign machines, which were identical to the Turbopower's.

Either way, here are the belts to fit your Turbopower.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Turbo500's LINK on eBay


Post# 238700 , Reply# 22   7/3/2013 at 05:40 (3,943 days old) by slpj ()        

Hi there,

Thanks very much for that.

Do you happen to have the size dimensions for the correct belts?

I don't want to discard perfectly good belts if I already have the correct ones.

Thanks


Post# 239442 , Reply# 23   7/9/2013 at 05:29 (3,937 days old) by slpj ()        

Hi,

does anybody have the correct measurements for the drive belts, so I can see if mine are the right sizes?


Post# 239458 , Reply# 24   7/9/2013 at 09:15 (3,937 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Mine measure 14.5cm on one side. held flat against a rule. So 2 x 14.5cm.

Part number 03850121


Post# 239576 , Reply# 25   7/10/2013 at 05:51 (3,936 days old) by slpj ()        

Hi Beko1987,

Thanks for that. Mine are longer and narrower, so I reckon I definitely have the wrong ones.

I'll order new ones today.

Many thanks.



Post# 239690 , Reply# 26   7/10/2013 at 17:03 (3,935 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        

Sounds like you have the Turbopower 2 belts.

Post# 239814 , Reply# 27   7/11/2013 at 16:47 (3,934 days old) by SeamusUK (Dover Kent UK)        
Kent :)

Hi from Dover.....
If you are anywhere near we have a later hardbag model going cheap- its a Total System with tools attached tho so the Chassis is different.....
Cheers
Seamus


Post# 240032 , Reply# 28   7/14/2013 at 11:39 (3,932 days old) by SeamusUK (Dover Kent UK)        
Update

We are scrapping a later Turbo Junior like the Blue one above- the motor is history and the Trunion is broken-however the wheels and chassis are good and the Agitator appears better than yours. Contact me or reply on here if you are interested...
Seamus


Post# 240100 , Reply# 29   7/15/2013 at 03:26 (3,931 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Maybe have a look at your bellows too SJ. Seems to be alot of dust built up around them. A strip-down and cleanup would work wonders, and with the new service parts restore the machine to new order, making it a very good daily driver.

I have a junior with split bellows, and it displays the same symptoms, only stopping blowing everything out by a massive fist of fluff caught in it

Link should give you ideas on how to get to them


CLICK HERE TO GO TO beko1987's LINK



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