Thread Number: 21007
Kirby 514 Motor Bearings |
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Post# 235151 , Reply# 1   6/4/2013 at 13:49 (3,950 days old) by James (Ware, Hertfordshire, UK)   |   | |
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What a great find, you'll have to post some pics, I'd love to see it.
These are fairly easy to take apart really. First remove the rug nozzle, cord, handle and emtor/ bag etc. So you are left with just the power plant, you could remove the front axle assembly and rear wheels also if you wanted. I'd advise this so not to damage those original rubber wheels. I'm doing this from memory so hopefully I can remember everything. First remove the 2 black large screws from the motor unit body, these hold the brushes in, take note which way they come out. And don't let them ping out. There are 2 screws ontop of the headlight unit, remove these and remove the headlight casing. The bulb socket either unclips or unscrews, can't remember which on a 514. Remove the safety switch casing, 4 screws, different lengths so remember which goes where. Also pay attention to the gubbins inside. A card insulation plate, a spring, and a Bakelite contact lever, also the end of the conduit wire from the on/ off switch. Carefully remove the case so you can see how it all goes together inside. Remove it all and let the conduit hang from the on/ off switch. Remove the fan case, 4 screws, accessed from the rear of the case. Next the fan, its a right hand thread so you turn it clockwise if you are facing it. You need to jam the armature, use a fan locking tool through the cooling vents under the machine. The armature has a small hole in it for this purpose. Or an ice pick? So I hear other USA guys say? Or, if you are VERY carefully, and I wouldn't recommend, you can jam the armature using a thin screwdriver into the cooling fan inside the motor unit, again through the cooling vents. After the fan is removed, the front bearing plate is next, again 4 screws, and it pulls off. The armature should then be pulled out, and there is a plain washer and a strange looking spring washer under the rear bearing. Take note of the way the spring washer is installed. You can re-grease the rear bearing, clean it out first with paraffin or white spirit etc. I can't remember if the front bearing can be re-packed? Maybe someone else can shed light on this. I know you can still buy the front bearing plate with bearing, and I assume, rear bearing also. Obviously you could go further and remove the on/ off switch and field coils etc if you so wished, good luck, and I hope this helps you out. :) |
Post# 235172 , Reply# 2   6/4/2013 at 15:38 (3,950 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)   |   | |
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Post# 235364 , Reply# 4   6/5/2013 at 18:09 (3,949 days old) by James (Ware, Hertfordshire, UK)   |   | |
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Post# 235435 , Reply# 6   6/6/2013 at 12:16 (3,948 days old) by James (Ware, Hertfordshire, UK)   |   | |
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Did you put the brushes back in EXACTLY the same way you removed them?
I don't think they wear evenly, so the face is asymmetrical. This is noticeable when the motor is turned backwards you can hear the clicking noise as the segments of the commutator catch on the brushes, but turn it the correct way and the sound should not be there. So changing the brushes would probably solve the problem, or see if the run in/ used brushes are not in the correct way. Brushes can sometimes wear with a kind of tail on the trailing edge and this is what catches in the gaps between segments I believe, and causes the noise. Hope this helps if you see what I mean. |
Post# 235621 , Reply# 8   6/8/2013 at 01:41 (3,947 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)   |   | |
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