Thread Number: 19130
Lux "automatic" G help
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Post# 211207   12/26/2012 at 09:35 (4,132 days old) by powermate1970 ()        

I have worked on/repaired/rebuilt just about every vac in my collection without any problems, but the lux is one that I don't know much about. I have a two tone blue G that is prestine in appearence, but when you run it, you get that awful kinda burnt old grease smell out of the exhaust. I'm guessing brushes need replaced. How do I begin to take this apart to get the motor out? As I've said, I have very little experiance/success with Lux. I have a 1205 that has been sitting on my bench for over a year with cordwinder contact problems that I haven't been able to fix. If I can get this G running good, I'd actually use it. Any help you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Post# 211220 , Reply# 1   12/26/2012 at 14:59 (4,131 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
Model G

Will add more tomorrow.Just back from Christmas trip and unpacking.

Post# 211221 , Reply# 2   12/26/2012 at 15:21 (4,131 days old) by powermate1970 ()        
THANKS!!!

I would greatly appreciate it. Hopefully I'm more successful with this G than I have been with the 1205 cordwinder connection you helped me with earlier this year.

Post# 211297 , Reply# 3   12/27/2012 at 10:03 (4,131 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
Electrolux G

You may have less problems than you think as some just need a bit of cleaning or service.Before taking apart remember'If it will be more than 5 minutes before putting back together put each screw back in hole it comes out of'.Remove top trim.Remove rear of side bumpers.Remember'Rubber parts are easier to work with when warm'.Warm with blow dryer and gently pull rear of bumper rearward until it unhooks from slot in polished CW cover.The 2 hidden srews are only needed for CW service.Gently(yes that word again)remove CW terminals.Remove 2 screws at bottom & under switch.Gently bump wheels to remove motor cover.If armature looks good it may benefit from polishing with white armature stone with motor running(easy with it mounted in vac and alligator clips to back of switch).Next tip'If carbons are removed and can be replaced keep in same position by making different scratch mark on brush and housing for each side.Brushes may be dusty/dirty and 'stuck',if so clean and make sure they slide freely in metal sleeve.Many will need oil on felt under rear bearing cap(tap off with flat screwdriver against).Most will benefit from removing/cleaning fans.Fan housing has 4 screws,then cushion fan with rag when removing nut to protect fan & Your HAND.A custom tool for washing inside fan blades is a floor brush bristle curved to fit.This may help but with extreme use might need any repair including replacement.Parts machines should be easy to find if needed.--Good Luck.The G is one of the classics and can be used with many combinations of hoses,atts & Power Nozzles.

Post# 211584 , Reply# 4   12/29/2012 at 06:21 (4,129 days old) by Real1 ()        

The bumpers are a bit tricky and easy to shear the little end tabs off. Then you have a useless bumper that will have to be super glued etc. The G motors are great; just usually needing the stators polished/re-grooved, new brushes and bearings. Unless it's been forced to run with bad bearings, the windings are usually fine.

 

Cord winders are overrated in complexity...they are just springs like in clocks and very repairable if you think them through. Any exposed springs can be held with 'barrel bands' so they don't fly out and injure. I found the 1205 cord winder even a bit easier than the G to work on.

 

Kevin



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