Thread Number: 18186
Received the new Turbopower 1000 motor, but have a problem...
[Down to Last]

Vacuumland's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate vacuumland.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 199238   9/5/2012 at 07:20 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
It is an Amatek motor which the seller said would fit the Turbopower 1000 but I cannot figure out how to hook it up to the three wires in the TP1000.

Here are some pictures, the first comparing it with the original motor.


Post# 199239 , Reply# 1   9/5/2012 at 07:22 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Picture 2:

Post# 199240 , Reply# 2   9/5/2012 at 07:23 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Picture 3:

Post# 199241 , Reply# 3   9/5/2012 at 07:26 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Picture 4 showing what appears to be two prongs (included with the package):

Post# 199242 , Reply# 4   9/5/2012 at 07:27 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
And the last picture of a sticky-backed "pad", there is one of those on the original motor, but I don't know where I'd affix it to the new one...

Post# 199243 , Reply# 5   9/5/2012 at 07:29 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Here is a picture of the three cables on the TP1000 in case it helps:

Post# 199249 , Reply# 6   9/5/2012 at 09:08 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
OK, I found a piece of paper in the box which showed me where to put the "overheat pad", but I'm still stuck about how to wire the damn thing up.

Oh and it is from 1999 (the new motor) in case that helps.


Post# 199367 , Reply# 7   9/5/2012 at 14:31 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Nobody!? I could really do with some help, I spent £30 on that damn motor and if it is no good I need to know.

Post# 199372 , Reply# 8   9/5/2012 at 14:51 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Patience Jamie, is a virtue - I'm sure if you keep bumping this thread, someone will have the answers - just dont be impatient and try doing it yourself, or your £30 motor will be as toast as your old one.
I dont have the answer, as I dont have a turbopower any more, but isnt this your autosense model that has variable power to the motor - I'm not sure if the motor itself steps down the power or the circuitry in the cleaner does it. I'm only used to motors with 2 wires like in the Dysons. Maybe vintagehoover might be able to assist you? he usually comes on most days so just be patient......


Post# 199376 , Reply# 9   9/5/2012 at 15:11 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Well that's it, the TP1000 is an Autosense model and the third wire (I presume for the Autosense) had its own connector on the old motor but this one only has two and even those I don't know how to make compatible for the power cables.

Post# 199381 , Reply# 10   9/5/2012 at 15:27 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Well, Jamie you have another TP without Autosense so take that apart and see how its wired - you may be able to use the new motor in your other TP model, so at least that will have a brand new motor - then keep on the lookout for another aoutosense model that you could use as a donor motor?

Post# 199383 , Reply# 11   9/5/2012 at 15:34 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
I think I'll have to end up just keeping that motor as a spare for my 1999 Hoover Turbopower 2, which it SHOULD fit since they are both the same year.

I have to say I'm very disappointed though and will see if the seller can give me a refund as he said it would fit the TP1000 U2812.

It isn't a foregone conclusion yet though as neither of us are experts on the subject.


Post# 199385 , Reply# 12   9/5/2012 at 15:37 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        
Just incase it helps...

I scanned in the section on TP 2 & 3's from the 1995 service manual.

Sorry they are not better quality. My phone takes better scans of books than my flatbed...



Post# 199386 , Reply# 13   9/5/2012 at 15:38 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

got to write something in this box to post the pages...

Post# 199387 , Reply# 14   9/5/2012 at 15:38 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Wiring diagrams

Post# 199388 , Reply# 15   9/5/2012 at 15:41 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

and another

Post# 199389 , Reply# 16   9/5/2012 at 15:42 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Almost there

Post# 199391 , Reply# 17   9/5/2012 at 15:43 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

more part lists

Post# 199393 , Reply# 18   9/5/2012 at 15:46 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

and that's it. I hope this helps in some way, I haven't got any later editions sadly.

Post# 199395 , Reply# 19   9/5/2012 at 15:51 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Thank you for taking the time to do that but it doesn't shed any light on it from my reckoning...

Post# 199396 , Reply# 20   9/5/2012 at 15:52 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

I have just checked the Buyspares website - and the motor from your 2812 will be the same as that in the 2106, so they both use the same motors. That little gizmo on the brown wire is a thermostat apparently, so I would think it would be in the live wire to the motor. I dont think the motor controls the autosense feature. I would ring the guy up that sold it to you and tell him what wires you have and let him suggest how the Ametek wires up.

Post# 199397 , Reply# 21   9/5/2012 at 15:53 (4,250 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        

There you go Jamie. Thanks to Beko you can see the lead you have spare is a 12v supply to the printed circuit board (PCB). The motor has a 12V 'tap' into it, that is to say that the motor acts as a transformer to reduce the mains voltage to 12v to power the PCB. Without that tap on the motor, you can't connect the PCB lead, but it should be perfectly safe to connect the motor to the blue and brown terminals to see if it will run on full power without a live PCB.

Post# 199404 , Reply# 22   9/5/2012 at 16:02 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Ok Jamie it looks like from that diagram that the red wire supplies the Autosense PCB a 12v supply from the motor's step down windings. The brown wire connects to one side of the motor and the blue/black wire to the other terminal. without a terminal for the red wire the autosense pcb wont work? could be wrong but thats what that wiring diagram suggests to me.

Post# 199405 , Reply# 23   9/5/2012 at 16:02 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
So I don't need that wire necessarily, that's good, but how do I wire it up then ? The cables don't have anywhere they can fit into the motor as it stands and I'm not sure if I'm meant to do something with those metal "prongs" I have pictured...

Post# 199406 , Reply# 24   9/5/2012 at 16:03 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

well looks like someone else got there before me then - that wiring diagram was very useful.

Post# 199408 , Reply# 25   9/5/2012 at 16:05 (4,250 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        

I see 4 terminals. The carbon brushes are currently connected to two of them. To the either side of taht is where the mains lead connects.

Post# 199409 , Reply# 26   9/5/2012 at 16:06 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Not unless I can figure out how to physically get the cables to attach to the motor it ain't...

Post# 199410 , Reply# 27   9/5/2012 at 16:07 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Yes I know but there are no protruding terminals to attach the two power cables to.

Post# 199411 , Reply# 28   9/5/2012 at 16:07 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

He is right - you need to connect your brown wire to one terminal, and the blue wire to the other terminal. The black wire leads to the pressure sensor for the bag full inicator. Without that 12V feed though, none of the autosense lights will work, and I doubt the bag full light will work either.

Post# 199412 , Reply# 29   9/5/2012 at 16:09 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

arent the terminals at the 4 oclock and 11 o clock positions in the top picture on the white part?

Post# 199413 , Reply# 30   9/5/2012 at 16:10 (4,250 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        

Jamie I don't know what the terminal can possibly be like if there is nothing sticking up. What are those silver terminals like then?

Post# 199414 , Reply# 31   9/5/2012 at 16:11 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

The terminals dont necessarily have to be the compatible ones for your spade connectors - you may need to change the connectors or solder them on

Post# 199415 , Reply# 32   9/5/2012 at 16:12 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
I have a picture of them if you check up at the near top of the page.

I tested and the "fork" ends do slot into the "non-protruding" terminals so maybe I'm meant to cut them into separate terminals and the cable slots into that ?


Post# 199416 , Reply# 33   9/5/2012 at 16:15 (4,250 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        

Yes that sounds about right. Split them and you should find one end fits the motor and the other fits the spade on your cable.

Post# 199417 , Reply# 34   9/5/2012 at 16:15 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

those in pic 4? I think you may be right - are they made of metal, its a bit difficult to tell from the picture? if so, then maybe you have it.

Post# 199418 , Reply# 35   9/5/2012 at 16:17 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Yep, metal.

I'll go and do that in a minute.

Thanks guys! Most appreciated, but stay on the line, I may be back with more issues (it is Murphy's law with me!)


Post# 199419 , Reply# 36   9/5/2012 at 16:18 (4,250 days old) by vintagerepairer (England)        

I wouldn't have said Murphys Law but it does seem to work as well. Don't get blowing yourself up.

Post# 199420 , Reply# 37   9/5/2012 at 16:25 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

I'll be here - but dont expect miracles - I dont know how that autosense module is wired, and it may use 12v operated relays - so may not work the motor at all. Wire the motor up, then switch on the main switch, if nothing happens, then try prssing the boost switch, it may override the PCB to power the motor at full speed. I dont think you will blow it up if you follow logic and that wiring diagram which you should thank Beko for as it shed a lot of light on our little problem.

Post# 199421 , Reply# 38   9/5/2012 at 16:32 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        
Not a problem

and I'm glad it was of some use. Is this the motor that shed it's armature? Couldn't you swap them around, providing the measurements stack up?

Post# 199423 , Reply# 39   9/5/2012 at 16:36 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Well, I managed to cut the piece of metal at the top (with the hole in it) to the right size on one for the spade to slot into it but on the other I accidentally cut too much off so that's that buggered.

When I was cutting them apart though I noticed that above the fork that goes into the terminal on the motor there are... Guides ? Would that be the right word ? For the bare wire to "slot in" for soldering to the terminals.

I do believe in later years you yourself Benny said that they soldered the cables on instead of using the spade adapters, so that "figures" with the motor being from '99.

I guess I'll have to buy myself a soldering iron then and solder the wires on ?

But before I do that, I want to know if it will work in the end, since I'm a tightwad Scot and don't want to (can't afford even) to throw money at things that won't prove fruitful.

Then again, I could be completely wrong about them having to be soldered, check the picture for reference and see if you can spot what I'm seeing.


Post# 199424 , Reply# 40   9/5/2012 at 16:37 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
It is Sam, now that's food for thought... What would be involved in swapping the armatures over ? Just a screwdriver and half an hour or soldering et cetera ?

Post# 199426 , Reply# 41   9/5/2012 at 16:42 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Don't know tbh, on the 1980's, early 90's it comes apart with 4 screws!

From my early 90's U1222.

Of course, being from 1999 I imagine it's been welded together as one lovely non-serviceable part!


Post# 199427 , Reply# 42   9/5/2012 at 16:42 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

the armature itself

Post# 199429 , Reply# 43   9/5/2012 at 16:44 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

swapping armatures aint easy - the main bearings are a bitch to get out, and i wouldnt want to even try as one is a different manufacture than the other one, and you could damage the new motor trying to remove the bearings - you also have to remove the fan and housing from the end to get to the front bearing. I would say not to try doing that.

Post# 199430 , Reply# 44   9/5/2012 at 16:44 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
No doubt Sam.

Post# 199431 , Reply# 45   9/5/2012 at 16:44 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Looking at your pictures, can you take the fan blade off? Will probably be an anti-clockwise thread, can't see the fan in your pics. The screws (if any) are likely to be hiding under there.

Post# 199432 , Reply# 46   9/5/2012 at 16:45 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
I think I'll leave that then!

So, is soldering going to work ? And if that does, will the actual MOTOR work with just the main wires and not the PCB ?


Post# 199433 , Reply# 47   9/5/2012 at 16:46 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

saw the above post after I posted! Fair enough then.

Contact the seller, after checking that the ad said it would fit? I bought a NOS activator recently advertised as brand new. Sent the seller some pics of the dirty bearings and slight wear marks and he refunded me in full.

You may at least get a free motor to repair something else.


Post# 199434 , Reply# 48   9/5/2012 at 16:46 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

I am speaking with reference to a Dyson YDK motor here though as I tried to get one apart and wrecked it trying to knock the bearing out of its housing, and it still wouldnt come apart.

Post# 199435 , Reply# 49   9/5/2012 at 16:47 (4,250 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Saying that, I've killed a TP bearing trying to get it out of the housing too to clean. Guess that's what part vacs are for!

Post# 199436 , Reply# 50   9/5/2012 at 16:49 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Personally Jamie I would contact the seller as the motor is not fit for purpose and whats the point in having an autosense model if the autosense is not working? there is no guarantee that it will work even if soldered, so I would just find another way to temporarily attach the wires to the motor and try the switches to see if you get any life, but remember you are working with 240V so be careful!

Post# 199438 , Reply# 51   9/5/2012 at 16:53 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Well he said in a message on eBay it would fit when I asked him and sent him my Serial Number.

I will ask for a refund now and see what's what.


Post# 199439 , Reply# 52   9/5/2012 at 16:56 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Here is the email I've just fired off to him:

Dear Kevin,

I received the motor today to find that it, contrary to what you told me, is not compatible with my Turbopower 1000.

Firstly the terminals are not compatible with the spade connectors my TP1000 has and secondly there is not a terminal for the PCB my 1994 model has.

You said it would be compatible from the Serial Number and Model Number I gave you and to find it isn't was a little surprising.

I was just wondering how we could resolve this.

Best Regards,
Jamie.

I'm hoping he'll give me a refund and not ask for me to send it back or something because with the weight of it I couldn't imagine it being cheap to post.


Post# 199447 , Reply# 53   9/5/2012 at 17:21 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

No chance Jamie - He'll want it back and will probably pay the postage as its his mistake and you had to pay the postage to get it to you. Tell him it doesnt have the 12v tap off for the autosense PCB and without this the cleaner wont work. He may not realise its an autosense model, or just hasnt got the knowledge of each type of cleaner. At the end of the day, if you want it working, you will have to either buy the proper motor at ££££'s or wait until another autosense comes up and they can post it to you. Patience again I'm afraid, I know the young want everything yesterday - I was young myself once lol. One will come along one day and the best things come to those who wait.
Postage for a motor will probably be a tenner or so from Scotland, but he should refund the price of the motor plus return postage as the motor wasnt fit for purpose and it was his fault.


Post# 199450 , Reply# 54   9/5/2012 at 17:25 (4,250 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Contrary to what you believe, I do have patience Steve.

Heck, I did wait about 3 weeks for the motor and when I got it today didn't rush to try and fit it, but rather finished my cup of tea and enjoyed the rest of my already playing Roy Orbison cassette tape. Then I went to fit it and found I'd wasted £30!

I do know that a lot of "youngsters" of my age (though I don't see myself as a youngster, probably because I'm old before my years both mentally and physically - my joints aren't what you'd associate with youth) are impatient and therefore I understand your insinuation.


Post# 199453 , Reply# 55   9/5/2012 at 17:36 (4,250 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Its not wasted Jamie - its your right to a refund, and he has to honour that, as he doesnt supply the right motor for your particular model.
I only said you were impatient as you put the thread on at 13.20 today and by 20.30 you were getting impatient at not getting a reply. I like you Jamie, I've watched your youtube vids, and for a 17 year old you are very mature. I imagine its very lonely living where you do, and internet is a good form of communication, but people cannot be on vacuumland all the time to help you - perhaps you could make some more youtube vids of your vacs - always interesting to watch them lol


Post# 199533 , Reply# 56   9/6/2012 at 04:47 (4,249 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
I see, well it wasn't pure impatience that influenced my "bumping" the thread but more anger to be honest that a tightwad like myself had spent money on something that won't be of any use.

Well I suppose you could call it lonely, but that's how I like it.

As for more YouTube videos, yes they will be coming but not daily or anything like that due to the fact they take around 4 hours to upload!

Yes - TalkTalk is a brilliant provider.


Post# 199558 , Reply# 57   9/6/2012 at 09:48 (4,249 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Did you get a reply to your email from the seller?

Post# 199571 , Reply# 58   9/6/2012 at 11:12 (4,249 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Not yet.

Post# 199598 , Reply# 59   9/6/2012 at 12:29 (4,249 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Keep us informed of your progress with the Autosense anyway - I cant imagine you will consign it to the scrap heap without a good fight as saving its poor life!

Post# 199599 , Reply# 60   9/6/2012 at 12:36 (4,249 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Oh no, it'll work again someday come hell or high water.

Post# 199634 , Reply# 61   9/6/2012 at 14:05 (4,249 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

It'll still make a beautiful ornament! Keep your eyes peeled, a scrapper machine will cone along for peanuts, then you'll have a motor and loads of spares!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO beko1987's LINK


Post# 199637 , Reply# 62   9/6/2012 at 14:11 (4,249 days old) by madabouthoovers ()        

Thats what I said - and btw, your link doesnt work...

Post# 199640 , Reply# 63   9/6/2012 at 14:15 (4,249 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
I think he typed "ma" into the URL box by accident.

Post# 199687 , Reply# 64   9/6/2012 at 17:17 (4,249 days old) by beko1987 (Stokenchurch, United Kingdom)        

Whoops, so I did! Sorry, was typing it on my phone.

Post# 199688 , Reply# 65   9/6/2012 at 17:20 (4,249 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

jmurray01's profile picture
Ha ha, no worries.


Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

Woops, Time to Check the Bag!!!
Either you need to change your vacuum bag or you forgot to LOG-IN?

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy