Thread Number: 17707
Hot cord
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Post# 191786   7/27/2012 at 22:08 (4,262 days old) by Durango159 (State College, PA)        

durango159's profile picture
At what point do I get concerned of a hot cord on a vacuum? Even 10 minutes of use, the cord feels hot. I believe the cord is original, winder are original, but I only recently acquired the approximate 30 year old smooth running find. The winder works perfectly. The cord is short but no nicks or boo-boos, and plug appear fairly shiny still.

Motors sound fine. Although I did want to grease bearings on suction motor but haven't figured out the best way to do that yet.

Eureka RotoMatic 1784B canister vacuum. I'm extremely happy with this find and don't want anything to go wrong on it.

Thank you!!


Post# 191841 , Reply# 1   7/28/2012 at 04:18 (4,262 days old) by bnsd60m9200 (Akron OH)        

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if the cord gets hot on a vac, it needs to be replaced. plain and simple. it's a fire hazard and means the cord can no longer handle the current passing thru it being drawn to the motor.

Will Hemb


Post# 191844 , Reply# 2   7/28/2012 at 04:56 (4,262 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

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Will is right, REPLACE IT. Do not use the vacuum again until you have.

A flex SHOULD NOT heat up at all. As Will said, it cannot handle the current it is transporting and therefore is extremely unsafe to you, your vacuum and your home.


Post# 191897 , Reply# 3   7/28/2012 at 11:38 (4,261 days old) by gsheen (Cape Town South Africa)        

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A Hot cord is a sign of a faulty connection, either the cord has broken down inside or there is a loose connection on the plug or the machine end.

There is something drastically wrong. There is too much resistance for the current passing through it and it will eventually melt or catch on fire.

I must admit I always fit a new cord to any of my vintage vacs, I get the real expensive rubber cord witch closely resembles the original cord, some might not like the idea but considering that the machines are often over fifty years old I want to be able to appreciate them and not be killed by them


Post# 192202 , Reply# 4   7/30/2012 at 00:07 (4,260 days old) by Durango159 (State College, PA)        

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OH MY!! Thank you for the info, I'll get to the shop this week and have the motor checked and new, longer card installed.
Thank you very much. It'll be sad having it out of the house, as I really like this vacuum!!


Post# 192213 , Reply# 5   7/30/2012 at 01:43 (4,260 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

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There are always silver linings Rob, in replacing a cord it means you can make it longer if you wish!

I know when the day comes to replace my Hoover Senior's cord I'll definitely be making it a good few feet longer.


Post# 193087 , Reply# 6   8/3/2012 at 16:08 (4,255 days old) by LillyLux (Oklahoma City)        

I might add that, most American homes' electrical outlets are 'hotter' that is, carry more average voltage than fifty years ago. We always spoke of 110/115 or 110/120 volts; now, most homes are 120 and even 125 volts! Those old vacs will handle it--but as others have said, a new cord is in order with modern characteristics, and that includes power nozel pigtails. I would also check the internal mechanisms making certain that switches are clean and untarnished, and motor brushes are working and sufficient. I might recomend a complete 'go over' by a professional vacuum serviceperson who's work includes vintage.
Have a safe and happy cleaning experience! Godspeed to you and your vacuum.


Post# 193203 , Reply# 7   8/4/2012 at 11:41 (4,254 days old) by Durango159 (State College, PA)        
Save my cord winder!!

durango159's profile picture
Vac shop told me that if I replace the cord, I lose the winder. I really like that cord winder. Anyone know of a replacement winder or way to replace cord inside of that?

Thank you for the help!!


Post# 193389 , Reply# 8   8/5/2012 at 17:12 (4,253 days old) by bnsd60m9200 (Akron OH)        

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if the vac shop is worth a crap, they can replace the cord in the winder. if not, they're just too lazy to want to deal with it. you're better off sending it to a repairman here who collects, who will actually take the time and effort to repair it the way it should be.

Will Hemb


Post# 193423 , Reply# 9   8/5/2012 at 21:57 (4,253 days old) by kirbyvertibles (Independence, KS)        

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Rob I would love to see your Eureka!! if you can please take a pic

Post# 193443 , Reply# 10   8/5/2012 at 23:04 (4,253 days old) by Durango159 (State College, PA)        

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Sorry, I know I've put photos of it in with some other threads. Here are some of the photos of my 1784B!

Post# 193444 , Reply# 11   8/5/2012 at 23:07 (4,253 days old) by Durango159 (State College, PA)        

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Roto-Matic power nozzle. A little harder to push than other nozzles, but it deep cleans, and despite not having edge to edge agitator brush, the grooved out suction edge "kleeners" as Eureka calls them really work. The carpet actually looks groomed the entire nozzle width. Definitely a machine you have to try out in-order to see and believe!

Post# 193446 , Reply# 12   8/5/2012 at 23:12 (4,253 days old) by Durango159 (State College, PA)        

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I'm curious if I was ever to replace or upgrade the agitator on this machine to a chevron, would this be considered the smalley pulley agitator or large pulley? I've looked on eBay at different agitators but can't tell on a computer picture what pulley size it would be.

The crevice tool is not original. There is one in there, it's black, I believe it is a Eureka crevice tool but the one which would have come with this machine. I do have a white Eureka crevice tool with same pattern top texture as found on the other attachments on this vacuum, however, the base is a little wide and doesn't fit into the attachment compartment nice enough for me. I DON'T WANT ANYTHING BREAKING ON THIS MACHINE!!


Post# 193473 , Reply# 13   8/6/2012 at 02:47 (4,253 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

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Hmm... I see there is no mention of carpet on the power adjustment Rob, why is that so ?

With my 2000 Electrolux Tango Z5001 it has variable power and only has an illustration of a rug as one setting, no carpet... On that subject, it also confuses me by making hard flooring the highest (1400W) setting. I'm sure Electrolux would have known hard flooring needs LOWER power than carpet or rugs, surely ?

Unless of course the highest setting means carpet... What do you think ?


Post# 193529 , Reply# 14   8/6/2012 at 14:06 (4,252 days old) by Durango159 (State College, PA)        
Bare floor brushes and suction regulation

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Hi Jamie,

I've never used the Electrolux machine like you have here shown. Without reading the manual I can't tell exactly what each of those pictures is supposed to be. I can make out curtains, and upholstery, the other 3 I'd prefer to reference your manual. Which I enjoy reading product manuals beginning to end of the English section for all products that I own. I can tell you from my personal experience of cleaning houses for years that actually I would prefer stronger suction for hardwood/ bare floors as supposed to carpets.

Yes, carpets need strong suction, however carpets also need proper airflow and agitation. If the suction is too strong, the vacuum pulls the power nozzle too close to the carpet and the agitator slows dramatically, you will find this more the case on stretch belt machines such as my Eureka above, Eureka Boss 1933 models, Hoover Convertibles, Hoover Windtunnel canisters, etc.

On a bare floor, the only proper way to clean them is with a bare floor attachment. On a well designed bare floor brush with good airflow, the powerful suction pulls in dirt along baseboards and elsewhere before the brush has even reached that point. A decent bristle layout allows the bristles to thoroughly sweep/ dust the floor while supporting the tool so that the plastic never touches the floor to scratch it. A Panasonic/ Kenmore barefloor brush is a terrible excuse for a barefloor brush because the bristles are very short, none along the sides, strong suction glues it to the floor, scratching delicate tile. Hoover Dimension 1000/ PowerMax canister style bare floor brushes are an excellent example of a bare floor brush: highly maneuverable, bristles along the sides for support, bristles in middle allow for great airflow and sucking in, not pushing large debris. The bristles were horsehair and not nylon, the tool would be even better because hair would not lodge and stuck on the bristles as much. See Hoover bare floor brush is picture above.

Now, the Eureka 1784B which is my machine above has a suction control on the canister itself and another on the hose. On this particular model they are simply suction valves that open up a little window as you turn the dial thereby decreasing suction, it is not electronic on this machine. There are Eurekas of similar style that are electronic suction regulators. If you notice on the bottom of the RotoMatic power nozzle. There are only 2 wheels on the power head. They are both on the rear center. This model power nozzle is not good at all for bare floors, as their is no squeegee, front glide wheels or even an agitator shut off.

On carpets with the machine turned off, this power nozzle would glide across a rug with little to no effort. When the machine is turned on, the suction is extremely powerful and really seals the power head to the carpet making it one of the hardest to push power nozzles I have ever used. However, in the short time I have owned this machine, I have gotten used to that and still REALLY LOVE THIS VACUUM. It grooms nicely, cleans edge to edge, and I don't mind a little exercise while I vacuum, especially with the nice separation of fibers that it leaves on the reverse stroke. That tells me, its cleaning deep down.


Post# 193542 , Reply# 15   8/6/2012 at 15:48 (4,252 days old) by gsheen (Cape Town South Africa)        

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That Electrolux is actually a AEG, It was only sold in the UK as a Electrolux, elsewhere it was AEG but by that stage Electrolux did own most of AEG, the vacuum design pre dates Electrolux's Entire acquisitions of AEG The reason you would use the lower suction is that its for rugs, as in Europe there is very little carpet mainly hard flooring and have you ever tried to vacuum a smallish rug on a wooden floor, it just moves around all over the place. This was Explained to me by one of the Engineers that designed that range of vacuum cleaners when I asked the exact same thing when working for the Electrlux AEG group in the late 90's

Post# 193554 , Reply# 16   8/6/2012 at 16:15 (4,252 days old) by jmurray01 (Scotland)        

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I see! Thanks Gareth.

Post# 193641 , Reply# 17   8/6/2012 at 22:31 (4,252 days old) by kirbyvertibles (Independence, KS)        

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oh im sorry Ive seen this pic before lol brain fart. I love these vacuums!! I would say hold out for a bad machine that you can take the winder out of if you can't find a vac shop to put on the cord

Post# 193716 , Reply# 18   8/7/2012 at 10:55 (4,251 days old) by sebo_fan (Scotland, UK, member AKA ukvacfan, & Nar2)        

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Well Jamie the easiest answer to why hard floor setting has the highest setting and not carpet is ALSO because carpet is porous - thus requires air flow and agitation as Rob (durango) demonstrates.  Hard floor is not porous (only to the sides if its tongue and groove and hasn't been properly sealed)- carpets however get closer contact with the suction only floor tool compared to the raised brushes on hard floors. Tongue and groove usually applies to laminate flooring only, but it also applies to natural genuine hard wood floors too.


Post# 193730 , Reply# 19   8/7/2012 at 12:39 (4,251 days old) by Durango159 (State College, PA)        
No worries Philip

durango159's profile picture
We're all fun on here. So many users have posted vacuum photos, its hard to remember who's is what.

I for one LOVE vacuum photos, so please don't be afraid to share them. Hoover, Eureka, Royal, Panasonic canister vacuums with power nozzles-- bring on the photos!!

Here's a refurbed Eureka World Vac The Boss, model: 6856B that I restored. Got it for $15 at a consignment shop. I did sell it but it was a nice machine. Previous user had a Hoover power head belt instead of a Eureka belt when I first got it, so the power head wasn't working so great until I remedied it along with some other work. No headlight on this model. Suction and cleaning were much better than I anticipated. A little loud for a canister though but for a low priced machine that cleans good, a little noise is ok.



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