Electrolux Model G Hose Needed

My method is essentially exactly what Charles suggests and as he says, it's all in the minute attention to details such as liquid consistency and the timing of the pour, impregnation and cure.

Liquid latex, on exposure to air, begins to set up VERY quickly. You need to experiment to determine the wait times for and between each procedure.

To begin with, I thin the latex with tap water to the consistency of half & half coffee cream; thick enough to coat like Maloxx and thin enough to penetrate the cracks and weave.

Preparation of the work site is key as well. Remove any hose handle or end connector if possible. Insert a sized cylinder such as a film can (enlarged with duct tape to fit snugly)in to one end so that it covers any metal inner tube, as latex will not stick to metal and any such layer will eventually peel away and form a clog like a drum-head. You will want to prepare a similar plug for the other end you pour the latex in - So you can thoroughly swoosh the liquid along the entire length. At this point latex will barely seep or alarmingly gush from the interior cracks and leaks. Hope you have those disposable towels handy. :-)
The idea is to have the liquid latex penetrate something it can root itself to anchor it to the inner surface. Old hoses (cloth or Saran weave) usually have a spiral-wound rubber cloth inner layer, then the wire coil, then another layer of spiral-wound rubber cloth and finally the outside woven exterior wrap. It is the rubber which deteriorates with age and begins to crumble, allowing air to pass through the walls of the hose. If these cracks and pinholes are saturated with latex, it seals all these voids without sacrificing flexibility.
Depending on the level of deterioration, differing quantities of latex medium will pass through the hose wall to the outside surface. For this reason you will want to have plenty of paper towels or sacrificial cotton towels to sop up the flow as it emerges.
Remember, we will next be forcing the latex in a controlled manner to penetrate the layers using the warm exhaust from a standing-by vacuum cleaner. There will always be leakage of the liquid and this is exactly what we want - but not too much...
After the initial pour and swooshing, hang the hose vertically full length from a basement rafter (which is done to leave the hose interior evenly coated like Maalox or Pepto-Bismol in the esophagus.

After removing the second plug and draining the hose - into a waiting bucket - , I then quickly connect it to a pre-set hose handle at ceiling level run down connected to the exhaust of a running vacuum on the floor. Placing your palm momentarily against the open end will cause the pressure to force the latex through the weave. You will be surprised at all the places latex oozes out - this is the excess which if left un-blown would tend to drip, glob and pool inside the hose.

Only practice will tell you when to stop palming the hose. The drippings on the floor (you did lay down newspaper or cardboard or plastic sheet on the floor, right?) are your indicator of how fast the latex is solidifying. Dried latex is insidious stuff to clean up so you will want to wear your least favorite jeans and shirt. Do not get it splashed on your hairy parts - arms and hairy knuckles - or you will be picking it off yourself for at least a week. I recommend wearing tight fitting latex or rubber gloves as inevitably you will lay your hands on some nasty wet sticky spots and puddles. You don't want to walk through it in your nice shoes either. Remember, latex is the sap of the rubber tree.

Try not to smear it about as you sop it up with towels. Fear not if you can't blot it all away, as on Saran hoses you can later pick, peel and clean it all away and on a cloth weave hose the staining will be minimal as the latex dries clear.

Now while the hose is drying is the time to pour any recovered latex liquid in the bucket back into the latex storage container for later use. Do not pour any globs as it is already setting and will contaminate your supply. Keep the supply jug/jar tightly capped. For this reason I store mine in a large glass pickle jar with a screw on gasketed lid.
The hose can be left hanging or now laid out flat on the floor - a clean latex puddle-free area - but do be sure the latex is nicely setting. Continue to palm the hose end and look for the oozing to almost cease at which point capillary action will keep any remaining specks of liquid latex within the channels it has filled.

Run the vacuum at least 30 minutes more - the warm exhaust will speed the curing process. Leave it running for an hour or two if you like. As Charles says, final curing of the latex trapped in the weave layers can take several days to be sure, but by now all surfaces exposed to air have sealed over.

But after an hour it is time to inspect the inside of the hose ends to see if any drying latex film has adhered to smooth metal or plastic ferrule walls. This must be peeled away and for this I use a long pair of forceps if the ferrule is longer that my fingers can pinch. Note that the skin will NOT peel away from the actual rubber cloth hose lining as it now has roots into the walls.

Now then, after a few days curing DO NOT USE or unnecessarily flex the hose UNTIL YOU HAVE POURED AND SWOOSHED TALCUM POWDER ALONG THE ENTIRE LENGTH. After all this toil you don't want any of those interior coils to touch adjacent coils and stick together. :-)

After 'draining' out the excess talcum, blow out the remaining talcum dust. Dust the outside of a cloth woven hose or it will pick op every thraed and pet hair it's run across from the sticky surface. For vinyl/saran woven hoses, spend a pleasant hour or two peeling and picking away the latex film bits. I use tweezers for the stubborn bits.

You newly resurrected prized vintage woven hose is now ready for years of leak-free service beyond simply being on pretty display.

I've done many of my own vintage hoses, restoring them to 99% suction on the Suck-O-Meter, I mean Vacuu-tronic Tester Gauge - any leaks were there to begin with around the rotating end collars - and I believe I did one for Pete. Last December I did a crusty leaky but relatively flexible Electrolux Model 30 gray on gray cloth hose for Chris Szwejk in Oneida NY with minimal visual staining so if you're reading this Chris perhaps you can report on the results?

Naturally, the degree of damage to a hose will determine if it it worth the re-lining - latex will not seal up a hole or rent the size of a pea or larger but it is very effective on hoses where the leaks are a multitude of pinholes and cracks. Even hoses with flaking bits of black rubber lining falling out the end are worth the trouble, as the canvas spiral windings are still there to be impregnated...
You'll want to be sure the hose is clear of all loose debris from end to end. On those really stiff crunchy hoses where the inner rubber cloth layer has hardened, frequently there are strips of the cloth that have de-laminated and stand away from the hose walls & wire coil. With such a flaking hose I run a bottle brush on the end of a long Dowel rod chucked to a power drill up and down the hose length to loosen and clean out the obvious flaky bits and then proceed with the latexing process.

Dave


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Post# 96561 4/20/2010 at 17:41 (5,112 days old) by kirbyotronic ()
Checkrate/Likes I have a friend who still uses his Model-G that his parents bought brand new. It has the original hose, but it has a permanent kink at the machine end. I offered to find another for him, and asked if he wanted a white vinyl replacement or an original (I told him the benefits of the white vinyl hose) but he wants an original one. So, as stated, I need an original woven turquoise Lux G hose in good condition, so I can give it to him so he can use his Lux again. :)

Post# 96563 , Reply# 1 4/20/2010 at 19:38 (5,112 days old) by electrolux~137 ()
Checkrate/Likes Woven hoses are great for aesthetic purposes, but an original woven hose as old as the Lux G is most likely going to leak, or else be very stiff and difficult to use. I have several turquoise G hoses and while they look great, none of them are airtight. A good compromise is a turquoise vinyl hose -- I have two of them that came off of some other machine [I found them at a thrift shop so I don't know what brand they are], and they match the color of the G perfectly. And work great. Keep in mind, the turquoise G is anywhere from 42 to 50 years old. Finding a functional original hose is going to be improbable.

Post# 96802 , Reply# 2 4/22/2010 at 10:45 (5,110 days old) by kirbyluxhoover (Pinole, CA)
Checkrate/Likes *Having Two Hoses is Good!* I have four Gs currently, an early G that needs some restoration, two in Turquoise and one in Brown. I have one complete in both colors. I have some generic hoses both electric and non electric for when I use the machines and keep the original ones for show. A local collector here in the bay area turned me onto that idea when I bought a few Luxes that he was selling as extras. One of my Turquoise Gs was bought new in 1964 by my wife�s Grandparents and she replaced it a few years ago and I found just the machine in her garage and she had gotten rid of everything else. The plug had been replaced with a hardware store plug so I use it regularly and save my almost mint Turquoise for careful use. Charlie you remember Ken in Walnut Creek? I got my near mint G from him along with an L and XXX and some power nozzles. He had a Craigslist add for the G and it was nice to meet a local collector.

Post# 96803 , Reply# 3 4/22/2010 at 10:50 (5,110 days old) by kirbyluxhoover (Pinole, CA)
Checkrate/Likes *Extra Long Hoses are handy too!* I have a straight suction hose for my Luxes about 10 feet long and it just great for cleaning furniture, hard floors and chasing spider webs and things of that nature. A few extra feet can make a big difference.

Post# 96807 , Reply# 4 4/22/2010 at 11:47 (5,110 days old) by sireluxomatic ()
Checkrate/Likes I sometimes use the original hoses for cleaning, but every time I do it strikes me how fragile they are if not used properly. Its a pity these beautiful old woven hoses weren't made to last, because it just feels "right" to use them on a classic machine.

Post# 96811 , Reply# 5 4/22/2010 at 12:25 (5,110 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)
Checkrate/Likes *Aeoliandave's Latex Process* Aeoliandave has developed a process for sealing old rubber hoses that uses latex. I read about it somewhere on the forum. I've searched the archives and can't find it but I'm sure it's here.

Post# 96814 , Reply# 6 4/22/2010 at 12:34 (5,110 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)
Checkrate/Likes *Found the Directions* This isn't the one I was thinking of, but looks like Charles Richard Lester has a process too! CLICK HERE TO GO TO eurekastar's LINK

Post# 96846 , Reply# 7 4/22/2010 at 20:29 (5,110 days old) by a007kirbyman (--->> Originally My Mom <<--- (now Wisconsin))
Checkrate/Likes *Bill (eurekastar), re: hose re-sealing...* Hello Bill. I think this may be the thread you were L@@King for. Cheers & hagd all, Bill CLICK HERE TO GO TO a007kirbyman's LINK

Post# 96849 , Reply# 8 4/22/2010 at 21:28 (5,110 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)
Checkrate/Likes That would be it! I've wanted to try that. Just haven't gotten around to it.

Post# 96853 , Reply# 9 4/22/2010 at 22:09 (5,109 days old) by aeoliandave (Stratford Ontario Canada)
Checkrate/Likes *Try it - you'll like it once you get the hang of it.* My method is essentially exactly what Charles suggests and as he says, it's all in the minute attention to details such as liquid consistency and the timing of the pour, impregnation and cure. Liquid latex, on exposure to air, begins to set up VERY quickly. You need to experiment to determine the wait times for and between each procedure. To begin with, I thin the latex with tap water to the consistency of half & half coffee cream; thick enough to coat like Maloxx and thin enough to penetrate the cracks and weave. Preparation of the work site is key as well. Remove any hose handle or end connector if possible. Insert a sized cylinder such as a film can (enlarged with duct tape to fit snugly)in to one end so that it covers any metal inner tube, as latex will not stick to metal and any such layer will eventually peel away and form a clog like a drum-head. You will want to prepare a similar plug for the other end you pour the latex in - So you can thoroughly swoosh the liquid along the entire length. At this point latex will barely seep or alarmingly gush from the interior cracks and leaks. Hope you have those disposable towels handy. :-) The idea is to have the liquid latex penetrate something it can root itself to anchor it to the inner surface. Old hoses (cloth or Saran weave) usually have a spiral-wound rubber cloth inner layer, then the wire coil, then another layer of spiral-wound rubber cloth and finally the outside woven exterior wrap. It is the rubber which deteriorates with age and begins to crumble, allowing air to pass through the walls of the hose. If these cracks and pinholes are saturated with latex, it seals all these voids without sacrificing flexibility. Depending on the level of deterioration, differing quantities of latex medium will pass through the hose wall to the outside surface. For this reason you will want to have plenty of paper towels or sacrificial cotton towels to sop up the flow as it emerges. Remember, we will next be forcing the latex in a controlled manner to penetrate the layers using the warm exhaust from a standing-by vacuum cleaner. There will always be leakage of the liquid and this is exactly what we want - but not too much... After the initial pour and swooshing, hang the hose vertically full length from a basement rafter (which is done to leave the hose interior evenly coated like Maalox or Pepto-Bismol in the esophagus. After removing the second plug and draining the hose - into a waiting bucket - , I then quickly connect it to a pre-set hose handle at ceiling level run down connected to the exhaust of a running vacuum on the floor. Placing your palm momentarily against the open end will cause the pressure to force the latex through the weave. You will be surprised at all the places latex oozes out - this is the excess which if left un-blown would tend to drip, glob and pool inside the hose. Only practice will tell you when to stop palming the hose. The drippings on the floor (you did lay down newspaper or cardboard or plastic sheet on the floor, right?) are your indicator of how fast the latex is solidifying. Dried latex is insidious stuff to clean up so you will want to wear your least favorite jeans and shirt. Do not get it splashed on your hairy parts - arms and hairy knuckles - or you will be picking it off yourself for at least a week. I recommend wearing tight fitting latex or rubber gloves as inevitably you will lay your hands on some nasty wet sticky spots and puddles. You don't want to walk through it in your nice shoes either. Remember, latex is the sap of the rubber tree. Try not to smear it about as you sop it up with towels. Fear not if you can't blot it all away, as on Saran hoses you can later pick, peel and clean it all away and on a cloth weave hose the staining will be minimal as the latex dries clear. Now while the hose is drying is the time to pour any recovered latex liquid in the bucket back into the latex storage container for later use. Do not pour any globs as it is already setting and will contaminate your supply. Keep the supply jug/jar tightly capped. For this reason I store mine in a large glass pickle jar with a screw on gasketed lid. The hose can be left hanging or now laid out flat on the floor - a clean latex puddle-free area - but do be sure the latex is nicely setting. Continue to palm the hose end and look for the oozing to almost cease at which point capillary action will keep any remaining specks of liquid latex within the channels it has filled. Run the vacuum at least 30 minutes more - the warm exhaust will speed the curing process. Leave it running for an hour or two if you like. As Charles says, final curing of the latex trapped in the weave layers can take several days to be sure, but by now all surfaces exposed to air have sealed over. But after an hour it is time to inspect the inside of the hose ends to see if any drying latex film has adhered to smooth metal or plastic ferrule walls. This must be peeled away and for this I use a long pair of forceps if the ferrule is longer that my fingers can pinch. Note that the skin will NOT peel away from the actual rubber cloth hose lining as it now has roots into the walls. Now then, after a few days curing DO NOT USE or unnecessarily flex the hose UNTIL YOU HAVE POURED AND SWOOSHED TALCUM POWDER ALONG THE ENTIRE LENGTH. After all this toil you don't want any of those interior coils to touch adjacent coils and stick together. :-) After 'draining' out the excess talcum, blow out the remaining talcum dust. Dust the outside of a cloth woven hose or it will pick op every thraed and pet hair it's run across from the sticky surface. For vinyl/saran woven hoses, spend a pleasant hour or two peeling and picking away the latex film bits. I use tweezers for the stubborn bits. You newly resurrected prized vintage woven hose is now ready for years of leak-free service beyond simply being on pretty display. I've done many of my own vintage hoses, restoring them to 99% suction on the Suck-O-Meter, I mean Vacuu-tronic Tester Gauge - any leaks were there to begin with around the rotating end collars - and I believe I did one for Pete. Last December I did a crusty leaky but relatively flexible Electrolux Model 30 gray on gray cloth hose for Chris Szwejk in Oneida NY with minimal visual staining so if you're reading this Chris perhaps you can report on the results? Naturally, the degree of damage to a hose will determine if it it worth the re-lining - latex will not seal up a hole or rent the size of a pea or larger but it is very effective on hoses where the leaks are a multitude of pinholes and cracks. Even hoses with flaking bits of black rubber lining falling out the end are worth the trouble, as the canvas spiral windings are still there to be impregnated... You'll want to be sure the hose is clear of all loose debris from end to end. On those really stiff crunchy hoses where the inner rubber cloth layer has hardened, frequently there are strips of the cloth that have de-laminated and stand away from the hose walls & wire coil. With such a flaking hose I run a bottle brush on the end of a long Dowel rod chucked to a power drill up and down the hose length to loosen and clean out the obvious flaky bits and then proceed with the latexing process. Dave