The very first thing I touch any scuff with! Especially on r
Mister Clean Magic Eraser Original or a similar generic knockoff such as Target sells. New Improved Mr Clean versions just cost more and work less well for our restoration purposes. I prefer the generics on price alone as all these 'miracle sponges' compress and crumble under the hard persistent scrubbing such scuffs require and you go though a lot of them on other projects and surfaces when you realize how great they are. I break them in half, dampen with ordinary tap water, wring dampdry and apply plenty of elbow grease. The results will amaze you. The surface will end up with a slightly dulled appearance that can then be restored with a Mothers Mag polish treatment. Heck, ordinary car paint wax does a good job, too.
Never use a kitchen scouring pad or regular sandpaper in an attempt to remove surface marring or minor scratches; even fine emory paper abrades the surface material. If that's what you think is required after Magic Eraser-ing then a buffing wheel and plastic polishes are the way to go for deep scratches and a high shine.
These are the two Mother's polishes I use. Mag and Aluminum polish is the one I use on all metal vacuum parts and trim, first applied and worked with 0000 steel wool, switching to a soft cloth for final polish after a ride on the buffing wheel.
Billet Metal Polish contains half as much and costs twice as much but contains some amnazing non-silicone additive that leaves behind a subtle residual coating that when buffed with a cloth banishes tarnish and dulling and repels dust. I use it on very special hammertone painted vacuums and polished trims and it's ideal for plastics - far shinier than any wax (including the best Museum Archival micro waxes) and has no discernible tactile feel under the hand such as wax does, ie...fingerprints.
Dave
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(Pittston, Pennsylvania, 18640) 
Comes to the Rescue!
