Thread Number: 36903  /  Tag: Brand New Vacuum Cleaners
PN cord wiring for canisters with polarized plugs
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Post# 394567   7/9/2018 at 12:37 by moderneezer (Gatineau, Quebec, Canada)        

Hello everybody!

Back then, I posted an thread about upgrading a straight-suction canister to allow compatibility with a power nozzle and artworks related to the subject. This thread is going to be focused on the wiring in the canister and the electric nozzle cord.

I haven't finished secondary education yet, let alone obtained a bachelor's degree on anything, but I have the feeling that I could predict how the wiring should be and the diagrams are based on my theory.

The two artworks show the wiring in the canister and the power-head cord (the latter only in the second picture) when the tank's plug is polarized. A plug is polarized if it can only be inserted one way into the outlet with the hot contact always connected to hot and neutral always connected to neutral.

Look at the second picture. The electric flow from the socket, going through the black wire which is the hot one, would pass through the on/off switch on the canister and, before heading to the tank's motor, would go into the PN cord and through the first on/off switch on the switchboard latched to the handle, then at the node where the flow would split. One flow would go into the black wire with red strip and to the canister's motor while the other flow would go through the second on/off switch and to the nozzle's motor. The flows from both motors would go through the neutral white wire (shown in grey in the large picture and in white with grey outlines in close-ups), merge at the node in the tank and return to the plug socket.

If the canister and the PN cord were sold in Britain, Australia or other countries where the plugs are similar to those in Britain or Australia, the wiring would be arranged the same way as in the diagram but the hot wire would be brown, the neutral one would be blue and the black wire with red strip could be brown with a black strip instead. The electric connectors for the power-head would be different to prevent a mismatch between a 120V nozzle bought in USA or Canada and a 230-240V canister.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size

Post# 394856 , Reply# 1   7/13/2018 at 20:59 by moderneezer (Gatineau, Quebec, Canada)        

Tell me if my theories are accurate and my ideas make sense. Of course, some of the statements in this thread are based on facts that I learned.

Post# 394863 , Reply# 2   7/13/2018 at 21:43 by blackheart (North Dakota)        

I may be mistaken but I don't think i've seen a unit where the hot wire goes through the PN port before reaching the motor they usually branch at or after the switch. PN ports are also typically only rated for like 2.5 or 3 amps and I feel that design would require specially made plugs since you'd be running the motor's hot wire through it, I could be wrong though I'm no electrician.

I've added PN ports or changed PN ports in a few machines now namely my Henry, or the Airway I had with an unusual plug I've typically connected one of the PN port wires to the neutral and the other one after the switch. I had to do it a little differently with Henry as both of the wires ran through the switch so i just cut and stripped the motor's wires and used wire nuts to join the PN cords to them

I used your picture and just modified it, hope ya don't mind.

  View Full Size
Post# 394997 , Reply# 3   7/15/2018 at 12:06 by moderneezer (Gatineau, Quebec, Canada)        

Then one of the on/off switches on the control board would be useless and the user would have to return to the canister to turn the whole machine off. I would like it if the tank could be turned off with the push of a button on the control board latched to the hose handle. Some Kenmore canisters do have such switches on hose handles

Post# 395004 , Reply# 4   7/15/2018 at 14:14 by blackheart (North Dakota)        

Typically when you the on off controls in the handle you have a circuit board in the main body. I think, much like a central vac, the on/off is triggered by low voltage this reduces the amount of current you need to run through the hose, and the size of the wires you need to run through it.

Post# 395010 , Reply# 5   7/15/2018 at 15:48 by Mike811 (Finland)        

mike811's profile picture

I have made the powerhead wiring to almost all of my canisters. I hope this video helps:

Post# 395034 , Reply# 6   7/15/2018 at 21:14 by kirbylux77 (Orillia, Ontario, Canada)        
PN wiring for canisters

kirbylux77's profile picture
For our members here in North America, here is how you would wire a powerhead receptacle in a canister with a 2 wire, 1 speed motor:

1. Black motor wire, black power switch wire, black powerhead receptacle wire.

2. Black power cord wire, white motor wire, white powerhead receptacle wire.

3. White power cord wire, white power switch wire.

This wiring diagram was what I observed & wrote down for how a North American 110 volt, 1992 Tristar CXL with a Ametek double stage 2 wire motor was wired up. This would apply to all North American powerhead canisters with a 2 wire motor & no circuit board, such as Filter Queen, Miracle Mate, etc. It wouldn't matter if the cord was on a cordreel, as long as there is only 2 wires coming from the reel & it is a standard 2 prong plug. The ONLY exception to this I can think of at present would be Aerus Electrolux & Perfect canisters, they are wired a little more complex to accommodate the Automatic Control system they use & the bag door switch used to keep the canister from turning on with no bag in place.

Tom Gasko had posted essentially this same wiring diagram a couple times before, BUT had omitted the third group of wires that also had to be connected. This setup could be used by anyone wanting to add a powerhead receptacle to a canister.


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