Thread Number: 36078  /  Tag: 50s/60s/70s Vacuum Cleaners
Dual Sanitronic disassembly Question ?
[Down to Last]

Vacuumland's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items
Post# 386933   2/28/2018 at 17:31 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

With the help of Les and Rob on this site Iíve become a bit more knowledgeable about Kirbyís, thanks guys ! Also everyone else who has taken the time to answer my questions. Still not sure how to remove fan from armature ? I see a hole in shaft above fan and also one below in housing. Just not sure best method to remove without damaging something...thanks

  View Full Size

Post# 386934 , Reply# 1   2/28/2018 at 18:16 by bikerray (Middle Earth)        

bikerray's profile picture
There is a special tool to lock the armature, but if you don't have that an ice pick or awl will work.

Put an ice pick in the hole in the armature inside the motor housing to lock it in place (as you turn the armature the ice pick will rest against the motor housing) then take another ice pick and place it in the hole in the pulley shaft and turn it clockwise to unscrew the fan and pulley off of the armature.

Post# 386935 , Reply# 2   2/28/2018 at 18:25 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

You might have missed this thread, which could help you in more ways than one... :o)

In reply 1, buried mid way:

It is easier to separate the fan case first before loosening metal fans. After case separation, I insert a scratch awl in armature hole by motor cooling fan (for Classic S7 and older machines). I grip the fan with hand, thumb, and fingers, as low as possible to avoid breaking any blades. (Remember this has reverse threads!) Then I give the fan a firm, sudden twist clockwise and it should come loose easily. Keep giving firm twists until it comes off.

The fan on my mom's original D50 was rusted on, perhaps because she used the shampooer. I actually bent my Craftsman scratch awl getting hers off! I almost thought I would break blades off but it finally came off.

A scratch awl is like an ice pick made to screwdriver strength. An ice pick or thin screwdriver MAY work but it depends on how tight the fan is.

Post# 386936 , Reply# 3   2/28/2018 at 19:44 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
I think I sent pics explained but I think it didn't go through.
On bottom right of vacuum is opening. Inside hole you can see blades of Armiture. In the middle of Armiture right below and when I say below 1/2inch at the most is a hole. Some people use a screwdriver with really small hex bit. I've busted 3 bits doing this. I've also tried hole punch this broke as well. I finally got ice pick and put in hole. You keep the Pic in the hole to stop the Armiture shaft from moving. While keeping Pic in place rotate fan counter clockwise. Once it pops so you can loosen by hand pull up on the fan separating from bearing plate. It should come up about 1 inch or more. Once you pop it up off bearing plate you can spin it off think of wheel of fortune spin and it keeps spinning on its own until it comes off.
Keep track of bearings and how they are position. So when you reinstall fan you do correctly. With fan removed take out Pic and in the same hole use a screwdriver and pop off bearing plate. Again there is a bearing built into bearing plate on Armiture side. To tap out bearing in plate I'd say use top of fan impeller but empellor is built into fan. Use a small socket to pop out. It may not come out. Before you take out Armiture take caps off and take out carbon brushes. Once brushes are out pull upwards on Armiture shaft and it's out. It will have bearings on bottom of Armiture. I have bearing removal tool take off bearing and repack it. In bottom of motor housing is 2 washers a flat one and washer kind of looks like propeller in plane. Circular with three notches reminds me of a propeller. When you put these back in grease these too because Armiture spins on these washers and alot of friction. When you reinstall everything install carbon brushes last and last I mean after Installing fan.
Might be same process or a little different but I've taken apart and put back together about 6 in last month or two.
Hope this helps

Post# 386943 , Reply# 4   2/28/2018 at 20:45 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

The fan has reverse threads so it has to be turned clockwise (when facing the front of the fan) to loosen it. The reason for reverse threading is to prevent loosening of the fan in normal operation.

Post# 386944 , Reply# 5   2/28/2018 at 21:54 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Texas kirby guy

lesinutah's profile picture
Touche. You are correct I remember just making sure to keep Armiture from moving.

Post# 386961 , Reply# 6   3/1/2018 at 12:06 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

Thanks fellas for the tip !

Post# 387015 , Reply# 7   3/2/2018 at 12:55 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

Thanks I succeeded in removing fan, unscrewed the fan bearing plate but couldnít get the armature to move a bit ? Can anyone tell me what to do next ?

Post# 387021 , Reply# 8   3/2/2018 at 14:01 by bikerray (Middle Earth)        

bikerray's profile picture
Did you take out the carbon brushes?

Try wiggling the armature a little to break the seal of the old grease and pull the armature straight forward.

Post# 387022 , Reply# 9   3/2/2018 at 14:18 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

Will do thanks

Post# 387030 , Reply# 10   3/2/2018 at 16:16 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

I just removed the brushes and holders, still no movement of shaft ? I reinstalled the threaded piece on the end of the shaft above fan. Can you inset a ice pick into that to remove armature ? Going slow to not break something...thanks for all tips !

Post# 387032 , Reply# 11   3/2/2018 at 16:58 by dysonman1 (Rolla, Missouri)        

dysonman1's profile picture
Put a screwdriver into the opening in the casting, the same opening in which you inserted the ice pic into the armature. Rest the screwdriver on the rear of the bearing plate, and tap with hammer. That will move the armature and bearing plate forward enough to remove from machine. This of course is AFTER you remove fan and bearing plate screws.

Post# 387048 , Reply# 12   3/2/2018 at 20:17 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
In side spray wd40 in the bottom of the motor housing. It will lubricate bearings. let it sit a minute or two spin the Armiture to get wd 40 spread. After spinning wear gloves it should come out. Make sure you leave field and field housing screws in.

Post# 387049 , Reply# 13   3/2/2018 at 20:21 by Lesinutah (Utah)        
Uh no

lesinutah's profile picture
Don't I repeat don't hit shaft. This could strip out or warp the Armiture blades or worse. Don't hit the shaft. I did this on 510 effed up Armiture.

Post# 387083 , Reply# 14   3/3/2018 at 12:18 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

I assume you cannot get the bearing plate off?
If so, go here to reply 2 and look at picture 7.

Take a thin screwdriver and rest it on the bearing plate holes and tap it down with a hammer to hopefully break the plate free and rotate it.
If that fails, tap some very small screwdrivers into the gap between the bearing plate and the housing, in each of the four screw holes. Gently pry the plate up in each place.

Post# 387094 , Reply# 15   3/3/2018 at 13:48 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
He got bearing plate off Armiture is stuck in the bottom bearing. Again don't hammer.
Here is a question Armiture blades on 510 I used hammered move up and down I also bent Armiture fan I have straightened leveled fixing that but is there a fix for armiture blades moving up and down. I'm sure u can tackle weld put metal screw hold into place but any real solutions.
Thanks les

Post# 387142 , Reply# 16   3/3/2018 at 20:35 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

Oh, I see - I had this happen once. I put the fan back on, held the housing between my legs, and with a slide hammer connected to the hole in the fan shaft gave a couple raps and it popped out. Just make sure both carbon brushes are removed first.
Funny part was that after all the crud was cleaned away, the new bearing went in with just a little finger pressure.

Post# 387163 , Reply# 17   3/3/2018 at 23:15 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
U shove a small device like ice Pic and lodge into hole so shaft won't move twist fan by hand clock wise keeping Pic in hole not moving.

Post# 387178 , Reply# 18   3/4/2018 at 08:25 by bikerray (Middle Earth)        

bikerray's profile picture
I think what Dysonman1 was saying was to put the bearing plate back on the armature, then screw the fan back on the shaft with the pulley ( just finger tight or enough to hold it in place ) then tap on the bearing plate from the underside.

If your fan is the gray plastic do NOT tap on it as it will probably crumble, that's why you would need the bearing plate under the fan.

Once the armature starts to come out you can take off the pulley, fan and bearing plate and then pull out the armature.

Post# 387194 , Reply# 19   3/4/2018 at 12:00 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Maybe but the shaft to Armiture is still top of Armiture. It doesn't matter top or bottom of Armiture don't hit it period. If bearing plate needs to come off the Area you have holes where you take fan off you put in screwdriver in different locations of hole tapping different locations of bearing plate it will pop it off

Post# 387195 , Reply# 20   3/4/2018 at 12:46 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Maybe but the shaft to Armiture is still top of Armiture. It doesn't matter top or bottom of Armiture don't hit it period. If bearing plate needs to come off the Area you have holes where you take fan off you put in screwdriver in different locations of hole tapping different locations of bearing plate it will pop it off

Post# 387206 , Reply# 21   3/4/2018 at 15:06 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

I finally figured it out ! I would first say go slowly ! To extract the armature I sprayed a bit of PB Blaster around the bearing plate, and a small amount around rear bearing. I then screwed the belt shaft back onto the armature shaft, using it to hold onto as I gently tapped around the housing, the armature popped right out. Looking at all the wires coming out of the field I believe I will leave it in place. What do you guys suggest as far as replacing or repacking bearings ? The vacuum ran good before I disassembled it, bearings where a bit noisy though...thanks everyone...jack

Post# 387211 , Reply# 22   3/4/2018 at 15:58 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

Replace the bearings.
Small cost that you may likely not spend again on that machine.
They have worn over the years and once the grease hardens and becomes ineffective, they wear more.
Get the Kirby bearings and not the low speed skate board bearings often seen for cheap.
Glad you got it apart, I know you would get it. Kudos to you for not rushing into it with a sledgehammer. :o)

Post# 387214 , Reply# 23   3/4/2018 at 16:50 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
If you can get bearing behind bearing plate I'd repack. Spray bearings with a degreaser if there is any built up on metal use steel wood. I'd clean off Armiture with a cleaner that doesn't hurt electrical. If you have a commuter stone clean copper and metal plate pieces on Armiture. Remove field housing use non electrical cleaner.
Dysonman was right on hammer I misread sorry

Post# 387220 , Reply# 24   3/4/2018 at 17:15 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

Thanks guys ! Pretty excited ! Can you suggest where to buy parts for D50, set up a bench grinder today to start polishing the aluminum parts, this is getting addicting ?

Post# 387223 , Reply# 25   3/4/2018 at 17:46 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

Kirbyneeds on ebay is the only place off hand with reasonably-priced bearings for these older machines (the ones with the shoulders). Get all you need from him at once and 'request an invoice' so you get a combined shipping deal.
BTW, what model are you working on now?

Post# 387224 , Reply# 26   3/4/2018 at 17:48 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

Duh, D50!
Hate that I cannot edit posts...

Post# 387225 , Reply# 27   3/4/2018 at 17:55 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Bench grinder buy harbor freight for about 50 and harbor freight has buffing wax less than 10 bucks.
When you start on 505 508 vacuum let me know I have a few parts. I have 510 done 505 508 and 510 I'm working on and might have some parts.

Post# 387260 , Reply# 28   3/5/2018 at 09:50 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

Where do you get the LED headlight bulb ?

Post# 387282 , Reply# 29   3/5/2018 at 15:28 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture

F' target='_blank'>
I can't get link to copy. I have an ebay seller sending me 2 bulbs to test. I told seller if it works on kirby I'll let him know. He sells for $2 a bulb.
I've tried about 4 bulbs and this is most durable so far. I'm trying to find cheaper just ba15d double bayonet dual polarity is hard to find. Some led bulbs are like gel you twist in and bulb comes apart.


Post# 387296 , Reply# 30   3/5/2018 at 20:01 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

Jack, your D50 uses older style bearings, Kirby # 1160 for front, 1155 for the rear. These fit models from 505 to S7. Kirbyneeds had them for about $12 each.

Post# 387312 , Reply# 31   3/6/2018 at 00:36 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
If doing bearings get new bearing plate with bearings built in. I think it runs 19 plus shipping so 22.

Post# 387322 , Reply# 32   3/6/2018 at 08:19 by bikerray (Middle Earth)        

bikerray's profile picture
I get my bearings from Accurate Bearings

The front bearing is an 87500 IK which cost $7
The rear bearing is an 87007 ND which cost $13.50

Those bearings fit 505 thru D80

Post# 387345 , Reply# 33   3/6/2018 at 14:59 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Thanks for info. How long is shipping.

Post# 387358 , Reply# 34   3/6/2018 at 16:17 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

Appreciate that information on bearings. Iím going to start polishing today and interested if you guys can explain how to remove the Kirby lens from the hood ? I drilled out the revits and removed the rubber trim, but donít feel comfortable polishing with the end in place...thanks

  View Full Size
Post# 387376 , Reply# 35   3/6/2018 at 20:27 by texaskirbyguy (Plano, TX)        

Personally I would just change the front bearing and not the whole plate if the plate is undamaged. I tend to like to keep more vintage parts on my machines, as well as save cash. The bearing comes out of that plate easily, as well as installed. Some properly sized sockets, a rubber mallet and only light taps gets it out and in.

Your headlight may need some sanding.
As for the logo, do NOT try to snap it out or it will break. Don't ask how I know that...
What I did on my mom's was to CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY trim the edges off of the bottom pegs with a sharp razor blade, a TINY BIT AT A TIME until light finger pressure popped it out. Only a tiny bit at a time in case you missed that part. :o)
It is a hard brittle plastic and the silkscreen is at the bottom. Do not use cleaners on it, just a damp cloth to clean it. Do not try to remove it with dirty or oily fingers. Now you can, very carefully, polish the TOP with some plastic polish if it is scratched. I did that to my mom's and it came out very good.

Post# 387513 , Reply# 36   3/8/2018 at 10:58 by jpsbgt (Oregon )        

Thanks again I might just put some tape over the lens when I polish the hood...jack

Post# 387552 , Reply# 37   3/9/2018 at 00:36 by Lesinutah (Utah)        

lesinutah's profile picture
Like quadruple tape it be safe maybe tape off inch around so you don't come close to it. You can sand polish and buff area by light by hand. I would only get wet rag and wipe off the lens don't want to discolor it.
It does get addicting restoring vacuums. I started off with a classic N omega and a tradition. I took all 3 apart and I cleaned everything up they looked real nice. The 3 vacuums all are different and I thought were all the same. Needless to say in the end I ruined all 3. I didn't assemble correct I messed up and that is why tradition and classic I dislike.
I can take apart and put back together every model from 505 to legend 2. I can do g series just not as versed as other vacuums.
I can take a d80 full tear down pack bearings clean motor housing basically tune up and clean a d80 in hour or less. I'm pretty well versed with 505 to 512. I'm just not an expert on the toggle switch or handle spring assembly. I have had or still have 505 508 2 510s 560 562 sanitronic 7 d50 d80 classic omega heritage heritage 2 classic 2 classic 3 heritage 2/legend 2 g3 g4 g6 2 sentrias diamond ultimate the other g series deluxe.
I've downsized sold and cut collection to 7 vacuums.
I can only say one vacuum at a time. Keep magnetic tray to hold screws and buy bosch bits for screwdriver.
Long story short I've learned a lot and had lots of help graining great friends. I'm not the most knowledgeable but I'm getting better. Kirby has a CD with repair manuals from 505 to d80.
I also have a parts diagram and parts number for 505 to sentria which come in handy.
Well I'm typed out.

Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      

Comes to the Rescue!

Woops, Time to Check the Bag!!!
Either you need to change your vacuum bag or you forgot to LOG-IN?

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In

New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.


Vacuumland home
Discuss-o-Vac Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Today's Vacuum of the Day
Photos of our Collections
Vintage Vacuum Cleaner to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy