Thread Number: 35856  /  Tag: 80s/90s Vacuum Cleaners
Help with 1987 Electrolux Marquise Motor
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Post# 384720   1/23/2018 at 21:16 by BrownVacuum1987 (Illinois, United States)        

Hello Vacuumland! This is [Unfortunately] my first post on the Website. I seem to have run into a problem with an Electrolux Motor. A reminder that the Immortal Electrolux Canisters ARE indeed Mortal. I have recently got an original 1987 Electrolux Marquise [1521] cleaned inside-out and working again after it had sat in a basement for Six Years. It supposedly “died” in 2004 when sparks started coming out of the exhaust. I am not exactly sure what made it work again after simply cleaning it out, but I have recently noticed that it is on the verge of sparking again. I’ve opened the blower-door while it is ON and have seen blue flashes under the covering on the motor, and have noticed that the Machine slightly sounds different than it did days before.

I’ve done some research on how to repair these Motors and have ultimately found that it could the brushes or the armature needs to be replaced. However, I have no idea how to take the Motor apart or where to even find a new Armature and brushes on the Web. Could it be possible for you guys to explain how to take the Motor apart? (Pictures would be helpful! Though not required.) In addition, perhaps send me link to the right Armature and Brushes? That is if someone online sells them.

I have taken the motor out and it appears someone has already done this to the Motor in the past. Someone used a Sharpie to write on the Motor “Replaced Arm Kit – 1/28/92”

I have taken pictures of the Motor and have attached them in this Post.

Thank You

P.S. I have NOT joined Vacuumland because of this issue, seeing that there are many other Electrolux Fans on here it seemed like the right choice. I intend in the future to write posts of my own Vacuum collection!

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 10         View Full Size

Post# 384762 , Reply# 1   1/24/2018 at 16:30 by BrownVacuum1987 (Illinois, United States)        

In case you didn't know, there's more information on Photo 9. I seem to have accidently misspelled that one. It should say: Would it be possible for it to be soldered back on or should I buy a replacement?

Post# 384765 , Reply# 2   1/24/2018 at 17:27 by electroluxxxx (cortland, NY)        

electroluxxxx's profile picture
the armature does look very worn however with a good seating stone it should polish right up although it would be wise to replace it in the future. I have serviced many motors in that condition and they seem to not want to give up the ghost. also I would replace both carbon motor brushes as the one has about nothing left to it. lastly the part that is broken is the thermal cutoff for when the motor overheats. The solder on the thermal cutoff is a high temperature solder and can be re-soldered in place.

Post# 384766 , Reply# 3   1/24/2018 at 17:28 by Blknblu (CT)        

The object in nine is a thermometer used for overheating.
Someone knowledgeable can bypass them, but they are cheap to buy.
When I get on my pc, I can lookup the number for it,
Although the armature looks rough. Might be easier to get another motor.

Post# 384769 , Reply# 4   1/24/2018 at 18:18 by blknblu (CT)        

darn auto correct.
It is a thermal fuse on 6, not thermometer.

This is what I purchase as replacements, comes with a long lead.
Klixon 7AM Series 7AM029A5 Thermal Protector Radial Low Resistance 110c

Post# 384771 , Reply# 5   1/24/2018 at 19:07 by BrownVacuum1987 (Illinois, United States)        

Thanks {electroluxxxx & Blknblu} for information on the Thermal Switch/Fuse. I actually already knew what it was since I contacted an Aerus Electrolux dealer before writing this thread. He told me "I didn't need the Thermal Switch" and I can cut it off and that there are no parts for the Motor. He was also trying sell me a Rebuilt Motor for $250 dollars.

Anyway, that doesn't matter. It seems that particular Thermal Switch can be found Everywhere on EBay. Here's a link to one

I also found what might be the right Armature & Brushes on EBay, but it seems to be designed for the Hi-Tech 2100 and it's expensive. LINK

Since the Armature up top is $180 dollars. It might be better to just buy a new Motor. Therefore, here is one I found:

I am posting these links for you guys to review, to make sure these work for 1521 Marquise.

Thanks for your Help!

Post# 384772 , Reply# 6   1/24/2018 at 19:49 by a007kirbyman (--->> Originally My Mom <<--- (now Wisconsin))        
Elijah, Lux & sparking...

a007kirbyman's profile picture
Hello Elijah,

I'm NOT a Lux person, & I don't claim to be an expert.

That said, in 'my decades' of working with motors, the left carbon brush in your photo #3 L@@Ks to be stuck in it's holder. It also L@@Ks to have "length" inside of that same holder. Being stuck would/will cause the excessive sparking you saw.

Once the brush has stuck in the holder, it needs to be replaced. Whether just replacing both of them will do the trick or not I don't know?!?! However, I would do that first & use a seating stone as well. This will be the least expensive option.

I've seen shops & individuals replace way more than is necessary too many times in my lifetime. ~lol~

If the excessive sparking goes away... WooHoo!!!!!!!!! If not, pursue your other options.

I wish you well & welcome to the forum.

If your close to WI, I'm just over the border, & I'd be more than happy to assist you. (I've saved owner's MANY Kirbys that were told elsewhere (vac shops) that the motors were bad. ~lol~)

Cheers & hagd/n all,



Post# 384775 , Reply# 7   1/24/2018 at 20:38 by BrownVacuum1987 (Illinois, United States)        

Hello William

I have just looked at the Brushes and noticed that one was indeed stuck! However, I cannot test to see if this "fixed it" because of the Thermal switch problem. Nevertheless, these Brushes seem to be super short to where you can even the springs inside them. Brand New Brushes are topically 1" inch in length, these Brushes however are only a couple centimeters long and don't even touch each other. I managed to find replacement Brushes for it. LINK

Can you explain the Seating Stone thing on the Armature as well? I have no idea what that is.

Thanks Again

Post# 384776 , Reply# 8   1/24/2018 at 21:08 by vacuumlad1650 (Chicago Suburbs)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture



Where in Illinois are you? I'm about 1 hour outside of Chicago. I would be glad to point you towards someone to help out, or help you myself.

Post# 384777 , Reply# 9   1/24/2018 at 21:20 by BrownVacuum1987 (Illinois, United States)        

Sorry, but I am nowhere in the Chicago area. I don't list my Hometown on Vacuumland for safety reasons.

Post# 384778 , Reply# 10   1/24/2018 at 21:38 by vacuumlad1650 (Chicago Suburbs)        

vacuumlad1650's profile picture

if you are closer to Southern Illinois, try 

The Vacuum Cleaner Exchange

 900 S Illinois St, Belleville, IL 62220

(866) 234-3575

Post# 384781 , Reply# 11   1/24/2018 at 23:05 by BrownVacuum1987 (Illinois, United States)        

Thanks! I might check them out! Would it be possible for you to explain the Seating Stone thing through a post here?

By the way, I took the Brushes out of the Motor and they Clearly need to be replaced. The armature maybe just fine with no maintenance required, aside from the Thermal Switch.

Post# 384784 , Reply# 12   1/25/2018 at 00:50 by a007kirbyman (--->> Originally My Mom <<--- (now Wisconsin))        
Elijah, Lux & sparking...

a007kirbyman's profile picture
Hello Elijah,

After you have re-assembled the motor, including the carbon brushes, then you would "hook-up" power to the motor; while the motor is running, you would carefully hold the seating stone against the armature commutator segments, in short bursts.

If the excessive sparking goes away, or starts to, you may be OK & can "save" the armature. Again if not, then pursue your other options.

And as I said before, I'd be more than happy to assist you, (depending on where you're located).

If you are in the St Louis area, then I will say that "The Vacuum Cleaner Exchange" in Belleville would be a excellent choice, like Andy stated.

Otherwise if you still have questions, feel free to email me, if you prefer.

Cheers & hagd/n all,



Post# 384793 , Reply# 13   1/25/2018 at 08:49 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

I agree with everything that has been said, especially with regard to new brushes and using the seating stone.


Sharpie that fan housing seam and using something soft like plastic or wood...gently knock the two halves apart...rotating all around the housing so you're not just hitting in the same place. I would test the armature itself with a VOM...lots of youtube vids on how to do that. If it doesn't test out, I wouldn't go any further with it.  Most of the vac supply outfits online have brushes. Armatures turn up on eBay but not always new.....gamble there unless new. If a member here can offer a new armature, jump on it!


On that thermistor, unless it's too tight, just pry open the original crimp, expose some new wire and recrimp. Soldering would be OK but makes the joint more rigid and more likely to break in the future. Hard to figure how that joint failed if it was relatively stationary in actual use.....I suspect previous dismantle forces.


Brushes/commutator look bad and probably the cause of the sparking, although you need to stone the commutator as was said.





Post# 384930 , Reply# 14   1/27/2018 at 16:58 by BrownVacuum1987 (Illinois, United States)        
I'm Back.

Sorry I haven't responded; been busy doing some work. However, I have not forgotten the Marquise.

I have question for all of you: Would it be better to Seat Stone the Motor myself or have the guys at The Vacuum Cleaner Exchange do it?

In regards to the Thermal Switch, I've figured out how to fix it! I will remove the little old wires still clamped on the Thermal Switch, cut the outer lining from THE Wire that broke off, then take the wires from inside IT and clamp them the Thermal Switch. Hopefully that made sense...

P.S. If I were to Seat Stone the Motor myself, what would be the right Seat Stones to buy? There are several different brands out there. Oh and I do have a VOM to test the Armature out with.

Thanks again!

Post# 384960 , Reply# 15   1/28/2018 at 10:26 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

The small stones are available from a Kiby dealer online. I bought two for about $9 and then the price more than doubled....don't know the story there. Do whatever feels comfortable with you. Showing someone how to stone a vac motor like the Electrolux works a lot better in person....unless you can find a Youtube vid.


My posted idea was to skin the insulation off the end of the original wire, open the clamping post and re-clamp just like the original.





Post# 385013 , Reply# 16   1/29/2018 at 01:40 by tolivac (Greenville,NC)        

Motor cleaning stones are used for other motors besides vacuums-a power tool place I worked at used them for tool motors.A good motor shop should have them-or try large electrical suppliers such as Grainger.

Post# 385030 , Reply# 17   1/29/2018 at 07:41 by Real1shep (Walla Walla, WA)        

Yeah they are, but are generally a lot bigger for larger motors......and so are the videos on Youtube showing use of them-larger motors.


The ones the Kirby dealer are selling are like the size of those welding chalks you buy to mark metal. I'm not advocating buying from that dealer since his prices more than doubled almost immediately after I bought two....just that size.



Post# 385033 , Reply# 18   1/29/2018 at 08:42 by kirbyvertibles (Independence, KS)        

kirbyvertibles's profile picture
I agree that either Bill in WI would be a great person to help you or The vacuum exchange in Bellville. I've done lots of business with them and love them!!!

Post# 385043 , Reply# 19   1/29/2018 at 18:00 by cuffs054 (monticello, ga)        

Safety Reasons?

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