Thread Number: 35100  /  Tag: Recent Vacuum Cleaners from past 20 years
Very serious question.....Vacuum Circuit boards
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Post# 378286   9/12/2017 at 09:02 (2,409 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        

I recently came across a Kenmore Progressive Canister vacuum that the motor would not come on. I had one before this that the motor made terrible noises and then stopped working. That one I gutted and dumped the motor. At the time I noticed the circuit board.

This new one, I decided to try my hand at bypassing the circuit board. After one connection that the motor ran but the PN would not, I switched wires and got the motor to run and switch from motor only to motor and PN.

Is there any DANGER to using this vacuum without the circuit board? If not, why are the boards part of the unit?


Post# 378293 , Reply# 1   9/12/2017 at 09:23 (2,409 days old) by crazykirbydude (Lexington, KY)        

crazykirbydude's profile picture
The circuit boards serve two functions, one is the make the unit look "cutting edge" and "technologically advanced" in the store. The second function is to crap out just after the warranty expires. That way you have to buy a new one. If the board is shot, just go ahead and chuck everything in the trash. It's not worth the frustration.

Post# 378303 , Reply# 2   9/12/2017 at 10:18 (2,409 days old) by singingrainbow (Texas)        

I'm don't think I've ever seen a vacuum that proudly displays it's circuit board or uses it as a selling point. Most vacuums likely use it for soft start functions, bag check lights, and a thermal cut off..

The circuit board in my 1998 miele, my mom's 2004 miele, and in my 2010 miele upright are all still going fine. If a board is made well it can last.

The only danger I could think of is the aformentioned thermal cut off being removed. If the machine overheats it will probably no longer shut itself off, which could potentially be dangerous. If you plan on keeping this machine and using it personally it should be okay, just not in the hands of a normal user.


Post# 378312 , Reply# 3   9/12/2017 at 15:03 (2,409 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Thanks Adain & S

Thermal shut off....that is it. Unless I can wire in another device, there will always be that danger.

What did vintage machines do for that potential danger?

Perhaps a one time inline fuse.

Your thoughts?


Post# 378317 , Reply# 4   9/12/2017 at 20:09 (2,409 days old) by human (Pines of Carolina)        

human's profile picture
Circuit boards are nothing but self-destruct mechanisms placed in appliances by manufacturers to force users to replace their machines at pre-planned intervals. Manufacturers used to build their stuff to last. These days, they build them to fail. There's no reason a simple thermal circuit breaker could not have been used. They were the industry standard for many years. I wonder how hard it would be to retrofit the machine with one.

Post# 378318 , Reply# 5   9/12/2017 at 20:29 (2,409 days old) by blknblu (CT)        

I had both Progressive & Intuition canisters before I moved.
They are gone now, but her is a schematic from one of them.



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Post# 378336 , Reply# 6   9/13/2017 at 05:16 (2,408 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Thanks...

Edgar, I often wondered about the C-boards...you may be right!

Sven, thanks for sharing. Not be trained, I will have to study this and the other you posted to the other vintage section.



Post# 378494 , Reply# 7   9/16/2017 at 03:33 (2,406 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Okay....

after speaking to a friend of mine, who knows, I got confirmation about the fuse and why it will work. He is very good at explaining things (in a way I can understand). Teaches theory, as in why, instead of just telling me what to do.

When I got home, I sliced open the shrink casing on the inline fuse I clipped from the vacuum and found it had blown. I will never know if the "board" had anything to do with the failure.

So I will be off to my local Auto supply to find an inline fuse holder and a 15amp fuse. The blown fuse was a 15amp, the vacuum motor is rated 12amps.


Post# 378496 , Reply# 8   9/16/2017 at 06:24 (2,405 days old) by tolivac (Greenville,NC)        

Fuse---for a 120V vacuum cleaner-a fuse from an auto store may not be a suitable replacement.Auto fuses are for 12 or 24VDC NOT for 120V They MAY or MAY NOT interrupt that voltage safely.Look for a fuse of 150V-200V for a 120V application.12V fuses could still arc over.Just to be safe!

Post# 378501 , Reply# 9   9/16/2017 at 08:45 (2,405 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Thanks Rex....

not doubting your post, but I will ask him about that very thing. During our conversation the subject of Volts and Amp.s surfaced.

Very good point, I will post his reply.



Post# 378504 , Reply# 10   9/16/2017 at 10:23 (2,405 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Here's what he said....

Fuses don't interrupt Voltage, it interrupts current/Amp.'s. Furthermore, the fuse is supposed to be inserted on the hot/positive wire to the motor.

FROM INTERNET:
“The difference between voltage and current (amps) can be understood if we look at them like water in a pipe (often referred to as the water flow analogy). Voltage is like the pressure of the water, while amps (the current) is the volume of water that flows past a fixed point in a fixed amount of time.

The fuse that was in the vacuum read: E.15A/125VP.


Post# 378538 , Reply# 11   9/17/2017 at 00:40 (2,405 days old) by tolivac (Greenville,NC)        

The fuse in the vacuum-15A 125V.A 12V one here may not be safe.Stick to the PROPER replacement.Current causes the fuse to blow-but if the volt rating of the fuse is too low-it can arc over.

Post# 378584 , Reply# 12   9/18/2017 at 03:45 (2,404 days old) by fantomfan57 (Central Texas)        
Umm, I could just...

pull an inline fuse from the parts vac.....oh, there wasn't one in the parts vac....




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