Electrolux 6500 L Shaped Power Nozzle Damage

The brush AC electric motor consists of very few parts. The armature, two bearings on either side, a field coil, brush set, and a motor housing. The field coil is the large metal block that looks like 50 thin metal plates fused together with magnet wire coils on either side. In your case it is also part of the housing. It can have two or four wires attached to it, one leading to the brushes and the other to line in the two wire configuration. I forgot the four wire configuration. The armature, which would be the large circular object that spins and also has magnet wire windings has a section at the top known as the commutator. The commutator can be characterized as around 20 copper plates in a circular arrangement near the top of the armature. The carbon brushes, which are two longer usually rectangular in nature graphite blocks make contact with the commutator providing the armature windings with power. below the armature windings the grounded shaft ends can be found. those ends have bearings attached to make the shaft spin with reduced friction. The lower shaft is always longer due to the fact that that is were the pulley or fan are mounted. In most cases there is a cooling fan on the top of the lower shaft. It is usually jammed to remove the main pulley or fan. The main pulley or fan is usually reverse threaded onto the shaft. Motor bearings in your case are the two large pieces attached to the field coil. There are two variations of bearings. Ball bearings require high temperature grease to be properly lubricated. Sleeve bearings, usually bronze, require the blue and white 3 in 1 oil. Your bearings sound corroded to the armature shaft. There are also sleeve bearings on the brush roll which also need to be freed and oiled. Since you stated that your shaft is seized with the bearings, you will need to break down the corrosion binding it. The brusheoll bearings must be treated in a similar manner. Try some liquid wrench oil for freeing up the bearings. When I say break cleaner, I mean the stuff they sell at auto zone that gets oil off stuff. It gets off the old burnt up oil and grease. It must be used to clean the bearings after they are freed. And yes, a wire brush can be used as a substitute for the wire wheel. The wire wheel is just cleaner and more thorough.


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Post# 376525 8/7/2017 at 16:02 (2,446 days old) by lux14 (Leawood Kansas)
Checkrate/Likes I have a 6500 L shaped power nozzle that had water exposed to it by accident. The brush rollor does not turn nor does the gear that the belt is attached to. The nozzle was wrapped in plastic. Some water must have seeped in those area's of the motor. Not sure if the entire motor is effected or not. There must be a little rusting going on with the gear that attaches to the belt as it does not move. I am wondering if I take the motor out of the casing I can possibly save it and lubricate it with something if I can get the gear moving again as I am not sure what the water effected. I hope the motor is not gone. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I included a pic as well. Thanks! Richard. View Full Size

Post# 376531 , Reply# 1 8/7/2017 at 18:40 (2,446 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)
Checkrate/Likes I see corrosion on the Commutator...you would probably be best to replace the Air motor, belt, and brushroll for good measure.

Post# 376541 , Reply# 2 8/7/2017 at 19:54 (2,446 days old) by lux14 (Leawood Kansas)
Checkrate/Likes Andy I think?, Hope you are well. You have such a great amount of knowledge! Thanks for the advice. Appreciate you always willing to help! Question, I want to try and see if the moter still works. More of an experiment. Is there anything you would recommend that I use to loosen things up and get them moving? Any techniques? Any of your thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks again!!!! Richard.

Post# 376543 , Reply# 3 8/7/2017 at 20:56 (2,446 days old) by Jimjimmunster (Hammond, Ind.)
Checkrate/Likes *The cheapest and most simple way in my eyes...* If I were you, I would get a bench top wire wheel with a fine wire wheel out firstly. Then I'd get that motor apart, maybe add the lightest bit of rust prohibiting oil to the bearings to make separating the armature from the bearings easier. I would remove most corrosion on STEEL parts using the wire wheel being careful not to accidentally nip any non steel parts. I would especially wire wheel the belt cog. I would clean the commutator using 1k sand paper. I would spray the bearings in break cleaner after you free them, and then properly lubricate the bearing and reassemble the motor. I think that would fix the motor. Pull the ends off the brush roll and remove hair and debris from that area and oil the bearings. I think that would solve the problem.

Post# 376544 , Reply# 4 8/7/2017 at 20:59 (2,446 days old) by Jimjimmunster (Hammond, Ind.)
Checkrate/Likes *Also testing* I forgot to say this in my last post. To test the motor if it is a standard 120v motor, simply add a plug to the motor wires and secure the motor. Then plug it in. But be sure it's a 120v motor first.

Post# 376545 , Reply# 5 8/7/2017 at 21:06 (2,446 days old) by vacuumlad1650 (Wauponsee, IL)
Checkrate/Likes Bill pretty much covered it. And it is a 120 volt motor...

Post# 376547 , Reply# 6 8/7/2017 at 21:15 (2,446 days old) by lux14 (Leawood Kansas)
Checkrate/Likes "I would spray the bearings in break cleaner after you free them, and then properly lubricate the bearing and reassemble the motor." "I would spray the bearings in break cleaner after you free them," ( Not sure what you mean, sorry ) I do not have access to a wire wheel. Is there another alternative? Can I buy a wire brush and do it carefully that way? Also, what do the bearings look like and where are they located? Are you refering to the bearings on both sides of the brush roll? What should I use to clean and lubricate the bearings? And, where can I purchase? I want to learn. Thanks for the responses. Really appreciate! Richard.

Post# 376556 , Reply# 7 8/8/2017 at 02:53 (2,445 days old) by Jimjimmunster (Hammond, Ind.)
Checkrate/Likes *Clarification* The brush AC electric motor consists of very few parts. The armature, two bearings on either side, a field coil, brush set, and a motor housing. The field coil is the large metal block that looks like 50 thin metal plates fused together with magnet wire coils on either side. In your case it is also part of the housing. It can have two or four wires attached to it, one leading to the brushes and the other to line in the two wire configuration. I forgot the four wire configuration. The armature, which would be the large circular object that spins and also has magnet wire windings has a section at the top known as the commutator. The commutator can be characterized as around 20 copper plates in a circular arrangement near the top of the armature. The carbon brushes, which are two longer usually rectangular in nature graphite blocks make contact with the commutator providing the armature windings with power. below the armature windings the grounded shaft ends can be found. those ends have bearings attached to make the shaft spin with reduced friction. The lower shaft is always longer due to the fact that that is were the pulley or fan are mounted. In most cases there is a cooling fan on the top of the lower shaft. It is usually jammed to remove the main pulley or fan. The main pulley or fan is usually reverse threaded onto the shaft. Motor bearings in your case are the two large pieces attached to the field coil. There are two variations of bearings. Ball bearings require high temperature grease to be properly lubricated. Sleeve bearings, usually bronze, require the blue and white 3 in 1 oil. Your bearings sound corroded to the armature shaft. There are also sleeve bearings on the brush roll which also need to be freed and oiled. Since you stated that your shaft is seized with the bearings, you will need to break down the corrosion binding it. The brusheoll bearings must be treated in a similar manner. Try some liquid wrench oil for freeing up the bearings. When I say break cleaner, I mean the stuff they sell at auto zone that gets oil off stuff. It gets off the old burnt up oil and grease. It must be used to clean the bearings after they are freed. And yes, a wire brush can be used as a substitute for the wire wheel. The wire wheel is just cleaner and more thorough.

Post# 376560 , Reply# 8 8/8/2017 at 09:02 (2,445 days old) by kirbyvertibles (Independence, KS)
Checkrate/Likes I believe this is a sleeve bearing motor (correct me if I'm wrong) which does not deal well with moisture. Get it apart and try cleaning it as best you can then try sleeve bearing oil (not grease) The armature itself should be fine even though its gotten wet, it can dry and be ok most of the time. Example,Some people here put them through the dishwasher and they are fine. I'll bet it's all In your sleeve bearings

Post# 376572 , Reply# 10 8/8/2017 at 16:13 (2,445 days old) by jimjimmunster (Hammond, Ind.)
Checkrate/Likes *Yes* Liquid Wrench oil is easily found at hardware stores. Near me, the blue and white bottle 3 in 1 oil is a little hard to come buy. I believe I got mine at Menards. You should easily be able to get these things. Make sure the 3 in 1 is in the blue and white bottle! The white and black bottle of 3 in 1 spells disaster for motors like that.

Post# 376599 , Reply# 12 8/9/2017 at 14:26 (2,444 days old) by lux14 (Leawood Kansas)
Checkrate/Likes Okay thanks again. The Brake Cleaner cleans the bearings correct? That is what it is called when I go to the hardware store? Last step is the Sleeve Bearing Oil correct? Also can be found at the hardware store by that name too? Thanks again! Really APPRECIATE!!!!

Post# 376566 , Reply# 9 8/8/2017 at 11:34 (2,445 days old) by lux14 (Leawood Kansas)
Checkrate/Likes Thanks Jim and Kirbyvertibles! Appreciate you taking the time to educate me! So I am clear Liquid Bench Oil frees up the bearings and Sleeve Bearing Oil lubricates the bearings once I get them moving correct? I am assuming I can get these items at a hardware store? Thanks again for your help! Best! Richard.

Post# 376573 , Reply# 11 8/8/2017 at 16:16 (2,445 days old) by jimjimmunster (Hammond, Ind.)
Checkrate/Likes *Also* Try not to get the Liquid Wrench that is in a pressurized spray can. The standard liquid wrench is less messier. But either one will work. Make sure after using the liquid wrench you use brake cleaner to get that oil off.