You'd need a 'control' to know what these numbers really mean. 'Control' being the factory numbers when the machine and accessories were new. In this example, the Oly 1 should have the Super J motor if original. How do we even know the motor is peaking like an original? I agree on turns and friction loss for lengths. You'd even have slightly different CFM's from a six ft hose versus a seven ft hose, all things being equal.

That first turn is about a 45 degree angle...not as restrictive as a 90 degree angle, but it's significant. And I like the comment about how well the aftermarket hose fits into the canister versus the original. These are great vacuums, but without the original factory numbers, we have no idea how these test numbers reflect what the vacs & accessories were capable of originally.

Kevin

great! Not condemning you for your efforts and do continue. I was merely saying that without the factory numbers, we have no 'standard'. But...we can compare whatever we have to your results....which to me is more than worthwhile.

Kevin

Aerus/Electrolux cleaners often get a bad rap for not being dirt diggers. Your tests indicate that a more scientific look is in order.

Not to people in the carpet business. I've been told by a number of carpet layers that they can always tell when they pull up an old carpet if the homeowner has been using an Electrolux or not. Electrolux always less dirt when they pull out the old carpets. Those were volunteered statements, so I'm not slamming Kirby, Hoover or Royal et al.

Kevin

love/hate affair with the 1205. The one I sent back to my son in Brooklyn was my DD. In the postcard pull test against my restored G, it would always lose. In inches of water it was 5 inches less than the G. I never could get that motor to peak out at what I thought it should. I have another 1205 to restore.

I think these old vacs have personalities. My restored G is a case in point. My mother-in-law gave us her old G that her husband had gone through when we were first married. I don't know what he did other than brushes, but that motor has a higher output than any other G motor I have. So much so that when I found a nice clean G, I transplanted that motor into it. They always had Electrolux and a close association to the salesman....maybe it was a replacement motor at some point. Or maybe it just has good voodoo. 

I think of the 12 or so Diamond J's I've restored for people only a couple of them were identical in inches of water. My DD now is a Diamond J and it pulls 80 inches right out of the box it came in. I'll get around to restoring it someday.

I guess my favorite vac is the G, but I don't use it much anymore. It's just such a classic, beautiful vac of an era long gone. But the wheels are flimsy and have always been a problem for that machine. Turquoise replacement wheels for that machine are like trying to find dinosaur eggs. 

The Electrolux floor brush I use on my hard floors tends to trap the dog hair against the bristles, rather than suck them in. I can flip over the head and do it that way, but the brush bristles sweep the floor better. The Constellation head even though flimsy, does a much better job on the floor, although you have to figure out your passes with that motor's bottom exhaust blowing the dirt everywhere.  A member here says he gets 80 inches from his Constellations. Respectfully, I'd like to see that in person or a pic with a gauge on it. Mine was like new and it pulled 60"....went through the motor and it still pulled 60". My other Connie pulls about 50 inches, but suspect a tough life.....no hurry to go through that motor.

The folks that claim they get at least 80" out of every motor they touch, must have better magic fingers than I do. I'm pretty good with small electric motors, but I'm lucky to get 80".

Kevin.

your calculations on CFM density are fascinating to me. Can you share with us how you do that on a PN??

Kevin

then, I'm doing really well to get 80" from a Diamond J with a HEPA bag/clean. Like I said, that doesn't happen often as most wind up in the 70's....which I think is still good. I've had a couple of stubborn Diamond J's that I couldn't get over 65".  I have a Super J that was pulling around 60" when I got it and so I ordered a nice re-wound armature. The armature cost more than the whole vacuum and accessories! Anyway, that motor is waiting to be restored.

Thank you so much for that info! So for the Electrolux vacuum, I measure the actual opening of the bottom plate and convert to sq/in? But how did you build your "box" to make your PN CFM measurements?  Sorry to be so nosy, but I'm fascinated by all this!

Kevin

I see how you did the box. Are you just using the rags in the first pic to try and make a good seal between PN & cardboard? I see like a false back inside?

What color is the Model G that your mother-in-law gave you and your wife? Electrolux changed the Model G color from aquamarine green to tan in 1966 to indicate that the motor had been tweaked to give it higher rpms (the armature was wound with more copper and more commutator segments). A quick way to tell the difference (if a motor had been swapped out at some point) is that the aquas' motors had black brush holders, and the tans' motors had burgundy ones. Another reason for the color change was likely to differentiate the more durable plastic used in the brown-colored wheels than the teal ones. It's definitely more common to see broken teal wheels than brown ones.

Fred; Ours was the aquamarine green, or what I always called 'turquoise' or Jetson Green. I remember that now on the motors of the G....been some yrs since anyone has said that. I don't remember the brush holder colors offhand. I bet anything it's the later motor that wound up in there, though not from my doing. I didn't realize they made any attempt to make the wheels stronger on the tan G. I never even noticed the wheels were different diameters from front to back until I broke all of them. Was playing around with my dawgs and fell...well, more like a Swan Dive right onto the center of the vac.

Aerus (and perhaps aftermarket companies) makes brush strips with cut-outs that minimize the collection of contaminants at the edge of the bristles. Consider swapping out your standard ones for those (the brush plate needs to be removed first, then the metal grips are bent back with a flat screwdriver or knife to remove the brush strips).

I'll start looking around. That configuration makes a lot of sense as you explain it. I have plenty of original floor brushes, so I can certainly treat myself to one that is highly functional with bristles. 

Kevin

On a second look-see the wood stiffener was apparent. Maybe like you say...when I build the box I'll do it in wood for a final version. Thanks!

Kevin