OK...you need to take out the armature and thoroughly test it with a VOM...just Google how to test a small motor armature....you do 180 degrees opposed and then side by side...it's a process as outlined. You'll probably need a new set of brushes as well. You'll need to clean out the bearings...sintered bronze bushings if I remember correctly. I chase them out with carb cleaners until they run clean and let dry. I also examine the commutator for wear and any abnormalities. None of the commutator plates should be cracked or have chunks missing. It's ruined at that point and will excessively spark brushes even new. If the armature checks out and the commutator is sound, I polish the commutator with brown Scotch pads. The bearings need a small electric motor oil. This will be non-detergent 20wt. Yes, the blue & white can 20wt is a ideal oil...what I use. Be very liberal in its use and clean up the overflow with a Q-tip or better yet, foam pad tip....like they use in hospitals and available through Amazon from various vendors.

I also pull a draw knife through the space between the commutator plates, but this is advanced stuff and you need to know when to stop. As the commutator plates wear down, the 'valley' between the plates gets shallow...allowing electricity to 'short' between the the plates. I went too far once in the 'valleys' of  a GM starter and it sounded like I was trying to start an airplane. Didn't hurt anything, just made the starter LOUD. Armatures have a spec on how deep that 'valley' should be....hard to find though. Some people dress the brushes to try and match the commutator. I find this fruitless because most brush holders are not perfectly perpendicular to the plates...ergo, the sides wear different concave shapes on the brushes. Let them break in and then clean the commutator again....that works for me.

Can't tell anything from a pic like that...except the commutator plates look dirty. This requires work and dismantling/re-assembly....no shortcuts.

Kevin

You just need to always pay attention to all the wires when you take out the motor. If there are more than two wires on the motor, they most likely have a 'piggy back' spade connection near the motor. I put a couple of wires in the wrong place while restoring a Diamond J, because I didn't take note on how they were wired. Wired correctly, it made no difference in function....I just felt better.

You might try Youtube and see if someone has a pictorial on taking the 1505/1205 apart. I found one for the Diamond J.  It's frustrating as hell that there aren't readily available IPL's and SM's for Lux vacuums over the yrs. Somebody had them....I guess it was a dealer thing.

If I had a running 1205 here, I'd take some close-up pics for you of the wiring. I gave my DD 1205 to my son in Brooklyn. My other one which has the best body, is in pieces. I'm not even sure where I put the motor.....so I'm no help to ya.

Kevin

never said their ball bearings were oil lubed...I said sintered bronze bushings were oiled. If one can't tell the difference between a grease packed ball bearing and a sintered bronze bushing, then maybe they shouldn't be working on small electric motors.

Kevin

Sure sounds like the armature is going bad. Easy enough to check out as I outlined above. There is a vendor on eBay who has very good NEW armatures that are rewound properly....probably better than OE and if not, as good. They are not cheap though which makes it somewhat attractive to buy another used motor and go through it....hoping the armature is sound. Personally, I'd buy the rewound armature and then go through the motor myself.

I wouldn't pay any kind of a premium for a "rebuilt" motor on eBay, unless you knew for a fact that the seller does stellar work. It's just small motor repair....if you were in the biz you'd have the luxury of donor motors and/or be able just to toss a bad armature after testing and examination.

Kevin

brushes are cheaper than armatures....lol. Although the brushes for the Super J are ridiculously priced. Do try some new brushes, while cleaning up the commutator. 

These vacuums are so old that it's not above a PO to throw some other brush in there that might fit, however poorly. People are often given these vacuums over the yrs...that doesn't exactly promote quality care and service. It would be really cool for you if it was just a brush problem.

I had a 1205 once that slowed down a bit while in long use....intermittently. Cleaning up the cord winder contacts, lubing with dielectric grease and replacing the cord worked in that instance.

Funny thing about your comment of being in the biz, my late grandfather on my father's side worked in the Old Greenwich elux plant, and, I kid you not, wound armatures (Even have pictures, and old plant brochures to prove it!). The irony is killing me.

That's awesome! Yrs ago in one of these old threads, the son of the Charlie McKee(the president of US Lux) came on and introduced himself. Considering what he could have contributed to the Lux history and all the anecdotes, he could have been treated a LOT better. He should have been courted politely by the Lux knowledgeable here. That's all I want to say about that.

Kevin

reading this post, very informative. I have not worked on vacuum motors, but might in the future. I understand that there is a tool and procedure for "breaking in" new brushes.

Thanks all.

There is indeed a tool. I prefer to let the brushes break in on their own and then go back and re-clean the commutator. However if you have customers and motors going out the door, you don't have that luxury. Always put the same brush back, in exactly the same position you took it out...if you're reusing.

Kevin