Thread Number: 18625
Kirby 514 armature and field windings problems
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Post# 204747   10/25/2012 at 12:53 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

Does anybody have any knowledge on how to test or find faults on armature or windings on a kirby 514, was running good until yesterday.... Now it spins at an alarming slow speed, it has freshly oiled bearings, brushes are recent, armature spins freely,

Post# 204750 , Reply# 1   10/25/2012 at 13:21 (4,198 days old) by vacu-finder ()        
Armature

That armature is toast, not only is it worn out (grooved) but chunks are broken off. Look for another armature or a complete motor.

Post# 204759 , Reply# 2   10/25/2012 at 14:41 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

Any idea of where to find one..... Could it also be the field windings?? ... I ask becouse wen it would be on, it would smell like burn plastic.... It would spin fast for ten min. Then it got slow.... That's how it's been now, here is a pic of windings

Post# 204767 , Reply# 3   10/25/2012 at 16:21 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

Does enybody know the manufactures part number for the armature on my 514 kirby?


Post# 204769 , Reply# 4   10/25/2012 at 16:37 (4,198 days old) by kirbykid63 (Wilmington Delaware)        

I agree the copper bars are chewed up.The armature is no longer made however there are still many of those machines around with good armatures.You may want to replace the bearing plate it is still available to my knowledge as well as the motor brushes.

Richard groski
new2youvacuums
520-260-1364


Post# 204772 , Reply# 5   10/25/2012 at 17:12 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

Is there a possibility that the windings need replacement ?

Post# 204780 , Reply# 6   10/25/2012 at 17:50 (4,198 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

Yes there is. Depends on how it was treated

Post# 204782 , Reply# 7   10/25/2012 at 18:23 (4,198 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

I'd just replace the whole motor.  Kirby upgraded that motor and the replacement has a shorter motor field and therefore a completely different armature.  However, I believe the armature even for the updated motor is no longer available (if bought new), so I'd just buy a donor machine and use that motor.  Any motor up to the S7 (Sanitronic) will fit.  But you might check with Bill Edstrom first to make sure.  He will know for sure about what's available. 


Post# 204783 , Reply# 8   10/25/2012 at 18:23 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

Is there any way on testing it with like a multimeter or an ohm meter? Is there any way of ruling out the bad part... I'm hoping its just the armature. Would another vacuum's model armature fit the 514 that I can buy new???

Post# 204784 , Reply# 9   10/25/2012 at 18:27 (4,198 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        
Ohm Meter

eurekastar's profile picture

You can test it with an Ohm or multimeter.  If you use a multimeter, just set it to Ω (ohms) and touch each lead to the different field wires.  If the needle goes all the way to the right, then you have good continuity.  But if your armature is bad, chances are that the field won't be far behind. 


Post# 204789 , Reply# 10   10/25/2012 at 18:55 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

I did test it with two meters... First was a fluke digital and it read 0 ohms all the way around, second I used a tempo analog meter and it went all the way to the right to 0 ohms.... So can something else be wrong??

Post# 204790 , Reply# 11   10/25/2012 at 18:57 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

Is there a way to test field windings???

Post# 204793 , Reply# 12   10/25/2012 at 19:29 (4,198 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

Try using a battery, some wire and a light bulb. And it should be the same way with thefeild windings

Post# 204794 , Reply# 13   10/25/2012 at 19:30 (4,198 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

Try using a battery, some wire and a light bulb. And it should be the same way with thefeild windings

Post# 204796 , Reply# 14   10/25/2012 at 19:46 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

Ok... But that won't tell me if the power is bottlenecked... It would just test continuity,
I can test that with the meter as well....

My question to you guys out there that have rebuilt many more vacs is what would cause the motor to spin at an 1/8 the speed that it would normally?? It also gives off a smell of burnt plastic... I think I'm going to test whether it is shorting to the metal chassis? I haven't checked that yet.... But I guess it is possible


Post# 204798 , Reply# 15   10/25/2012 at 19:50 (4,198 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

you would feel it if it was shorting on the metal motor holding device. almost like touching the prongs in an outlet. it could also be the cord or switch.

Post# 204801 , Reply# 16   10/25/2012 at 20:12 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        

I'm going to override the safety switch and eniminate the switch and go directly to the motor to see if that will help... Process of elimination

Post# 204802 , Reply# 17   10/25/2012 at 20:50 (4,198 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

oh I didn't think of that. I thought it could be the regular on off switch

Post# 204803 , Reply# 18   10/25/2012 at 21:00 (4,198 days old) by castrojoel ()        
Override update

Ok... I overrode the safety and overwired it strait to the motor... It spun faster than it has for 30 seconds then it went back to super slow and again with burning smell... So I hurried up and took out the brushes that were really hot, then I took out the armature, it was really hot too... The fields were hot as well but not as hot as the armature was, I'm thinking the armature is the only part bad.... But why hasn't it had any faults found with any of my meters??... It is really bothering me not having this beautyfull vacuum running... Nothing but a headache

Post# 204804 , Reply# 19   10/25/2012 at 21:35 (4,197 days old) by castrojoel ()        

According to vacsite, the armature from a D80 & D50 will fit the 514, is it possible that a two speed motor armature will fit a single speed motor? What do you guys think??

CLICK HERE TO GO TO castrojoel's LINK


Post# 204805 , Reply# 20   10/25/2012 at 21:41 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

dont thinks so. i tried this once but the rear bearing didnt fit into the casing

Post# 204806 , Reply# 21   10/25/2012 at 21:41 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

and i have a full motor that i can sell to you. it is in nice condition. doesnt have bearings though

Post# 204807 , Reply# 22   10/25/2012 at 21:48 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

it is 75 just just armature and feilds. and if you want a original kirby bag it is 175 free shiping. the bag i think is original to the 514 and early 515. i might also have the carbons for it

Post# 204812 , Reply# 23   10/25/2012 at 22:55 (4,197 days old) by d-jones (Pittsburgh)        

That burning smell is never a good sign. Without the armature in front of me to do some testing I can only speculate as to what's wrong with it, but it sounds like something is shorted, and shorts in either an armature or stator winding have a way of growing. The easiest way to test for that is to use a growler. Any well equiped alternater/starter motor rebuild shop should have one, and the test is so simple they may not even charge you for it. Pheonix is a large enough city that you should have no trouble finding one. If it turns out that your armature is shorted, there are outfits all over the country that can rewind and rebuild them, so there's still hope.

Here's a link to one such place.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO d-jones's LINK


Post# 204813 , Reply# 24   10/25/2012 at 23:24 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

Ya you could definatly do that

Post# 204814 , Reply# 25   10/25/2012 at 23:36 (4,197 days old) by castrojoel ()        

Hey kirbykid, my email is castrojoel_21@yahoo.com, lets get in contact because I'm going to throw in the towel on this motor, it's been nothing but trouble and a pain on my rear end

Post# 204871 , Reply# 26   10/26/2012 at 19:21 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

everything

Post# 204872 , Reply# 27   10/26/2012 at 19:22 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

if you want the bag then i will sow the spring into the bottom of the bag. the last one rusted away

Post# 204873 , Reply# 28   10/26/2012 at 19:22 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

-

Post# 204874 , Reply# 29   10/26/2012 at 19:23 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

does anyone know if the feild coils will fit? they are from a 518 i think

Post# 204875 , Reply# 30   10/26/2012 at 19:24 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

this is from the 518 as well

Post# 204876 , Reply# 31   10/26/2012 at 19:25 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

and this is from a 512

Post# 204877 , Reply# 32   10/26/2012 at 19:26 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

and this is from a 512 also a bit dirty but i will clean it all

Post# 204878 , Reply# 33   10/26/2012 at 19:27 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

this is from a 518 dont know if it will fit... if anyone knows if it will

Post# 204879 , Reply# 34   10/26/2012 at 19:29 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

the bag has been washed and vacuumed. i tried to get the rust out but i didnt want to use heavy cleaners. i just used soapy water. i am going to try and use the spot bot hose to clean the rust

Post# 204882 , Reply# 35   10/26/2012 at 19:37 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

i want $225 for it all except the 512 motor. now it will have free shiping. and if it doesnt fit then i will give you a full refund but you will have to pay return shiping

Post# 204886 , Reply# 36   10/26/2012 at 19:49 (4,197 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

with the 512 motor why does this happen? i touched 2 segments right next to each other and the ohm meter that i just bought says that the current is going through

Post# 204896 , Reply# 37   10/26/2012 at 21:31 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

My armature from my 514 does the same thing, the best way to check is with a growler, but I don't have one

Post# 204899 , Reply# 38   10/26/2012 at 22:10 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

I've read that the only true way to check for faults is to run 110v down the armature because it needs extra power that a multimeter can't do, here is my armature

Post# 204902 , Reply# 39   10/26/2012 at 22:16 (4,196 days old) by d-jones (Pittsburgh)        
the best way to check is with a growler, but I don't hav

That's no excuse. As I mentioned above, shops that rebuild alternators and starter motors will all have one, and the test is so simple many will test it at no charge to you. From the description of the symptoms you're seeing it sounds like the armatures windings are shorted internally. That would severely degrade its performance as you've seen, cause the windings to heat up as you've witnessed, and burn the varnish on the wires, creating the burning smell you've mentioned. If it was me I'd take it to a shop and confirm that it's shorted, then I'd get a quote for a rebuild from that outfit I posted the link to, or one like it. If it turns out the rebuild is too expensive, then I'd go with kirbykids armature.

Post# 204903 , Reply# 40   10/26/2012 at 22:18 (4,196 days old) by d-jones (Pittsburgh)        
By the way

What you're seeing on those ohm meters is perfectly normal.

Post# 204910 , Reply# 41   10/26/2012 at 23:11 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

I'm more than sure that the armature is bad, I was told that it is recommended to replace armature and fields in pairs, so just replacing the armature isn't a good idea, after all the pair is older than 50+ years, if the amature is new and the fields remain the same, the armature will fail if the fields degrade. can anybody comment?? I'm still debating on what step I should take

Post# 204913 , Reply# 42   10/26/2012 at 23:52 (4,196 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

I guess I cant really comment because obviously I would recommend you go with my deal but because I'm human I would probably unknowingly try to make myself better

Post# 204917 , Reply# 43   10/27/2012 at 00:15 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

I was thinking of getting whole new motor from kirby...

Post# 204919 , Reply# 44   10/27/2012 at 00:21 (4,196 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

How much do they sell for???

Post# 204923 , Reply# 45   10/27/2012 at 00:56 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

I can get them both for around $150 new, that is quite a bit of money, but they are new. That digs me more money in the hole for a vacuum I'm pretty much not going to use.

Post# 204960 , Reply# 46   10/27/2012 at 14:21 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        
Found replacement locally

I found an armature here in town from a local repair shop, I could only go today because the shop closes the same time I leave work, good thing he had a replacement, saved me a ton of money

Post# 204962 , Reply# 47   10/27/2012 at 14:25 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

New replacement metal fan, replacement switch, and of coarse replacement armature,
Got all of this for $40.00+ tax


Post# 204963 , Reply# 48   10/27/2012 at 14:50 (4,196 days old) by kirbykid (Horseheads,New York 14845)        

$40?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! wow. what about the feild winding? and the bag?

Post# 204966 , Reply# 49   10/27/2012 at 15:34 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

It's been running good with the original field windings, I'm sure the armature was the only problem with the motor, or at least I hope, I'm not sure on the bag, I would like it but the one it has now a kirby repair center put on it back in 1990, it is like part of its history, and the bag is in perfect condition, no holes blemishes, all i had to do was wash it with a little laundry detergent. I also have all repair receipts and original sales slip that I got with it from the original owner along with the original documentation, all in all I think I did good with the parts I found here in town.

Post# 204974 , Reply# 50   10/27/2012 at 16:03 (4,196 days old) by fairfax88 (Orlando, FL)        
How much

did it cost back in 1954

~David


Post# 204981 , Reply# 51   10/27/2012 at 16:57 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

192.35+tax
Here is a pic of sales slip


Post# 204991 , Reply# 52   10/27/2012 at 19:14 (4,196 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas)        

eurekastar's profile picture

Very nice!  You did well!

 


Post# 204994 , Reply# 53   10/27/2012 at 19:54 (4,196 days old) by castrojoel ()        

It's all thanks to you guys on this forum, you guys helped me out a lot. It's nice to know that there is people out there that still can reach out and give a hand, even in the form of writing, I'm very happy now that it works, thanks everyone!!!!
And thanks kirbyboy for offering your parts,


Post# 255447 , Reply# 54   11/7/2013 at 01:31 (3,820 days old) by KirbyClassicIII (Milwaukie, Oregon)        

kirbyclassiciii's profile picture
Evan (kirbykid),

Would you happen to know what the code number is that is stamped on the copper windings of the armatures from those pictures you submitted for Joel (castrojoel) regarding his armature? I know that the replacement armature, in one of Joel's own pics, is stamped "10530" on the copper winding, which would've meant that armature was for the first 4-amp motor used on the second-series 513 to 515.

Elsewhere on them, you might be able to find the part number (check fan blade).

Those armatures and fields (for the 3 amp motors that lasted between the 3C and the early 513) have been discontinued by Kirby in the '60s.

Thank you,



Ben (KirbyClassicIII)



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