Thread Number: 16649
Lux 1205 help
[Down to Last]

Vacuumland's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items --- [As an eBay Partner, eBay may compensate vacuumland.org if you make a purchase using any link to eBay on this page]
Post# 177540   4/18/2012 at 22:35 (4,361 days old) by powermate1970 ()        

I bought a 1205 off of ebay, and it came to me "dead" Seller said it worked when it was shipped. I would almost send it back, but it has a pristine wand sheath, white stripe on blue hose, which has little if any suction loss, and an immaculate PN-1, so I want to fix it. This will be my first lux "automatic" tear down, so I really need some help. It doesn't seem to have power anywhere. I removed the cordwinder and one of the contacts on the vac, not the winder seems to maybe have gotten hot and melted into the plastic a little, so I'm not real sure about contact. Anybody know where I should begin? thanks

Post# 177541 , Reply# 1   4/18/2012 at 22:54 (4,361 days old) by danemodsandy ()        
Known Trouble Point!

That contact between the vac wiring and the cordwinder has given trouble on two 1205s I've owned in the past.

I think you should reach out to Nathan here )"electrolux-dude"), who has quite a bit of expertise. Hopefully he'll know of a fix.


Post# 177547 , Reply# 2   4/18/2012 at 23:04 (4,361 days old) by powermate1970 ()        
Thanks, Sandy

as you know, I'm not a great fan of the lux, but the 1205, my olympia, and the 30 are kinda "special" (my opinion anyway) and I really like the 1205 color. If I can't fix this one, I'm gonna try to find another 1205 tank to put with this awesome hose and PN-1. When you find an original braided hose in great condition, you build the vac around it! LOL

Post# 177548 , Reply# 3   4/18/2012 at 23:05 (4,361 days old) by powermate1970 ()        
Thanks, Sandy

as you know, I'm not a great fan of the lux, but the 1205, my olympia, and the 30 are kinda "special" (my opinion anyway) and I really like the 1205 color. If I can't fix this one, I'm gonna try to find another 1205 tank to put with this awesome hose and PN-1. When you find an original braided hose in great condition, you build the vac around it! LOL

Post# 177551 , Reply# 4   4/18/2012 at 23:21 (4,361 days old) by danemodsandy ()        
Bill:

I would NEVER disagree with that philosophy, LOL!

Right now, I'm building a Grand Marquise around a canister that needs EVERYTHING, including total replacement of the top deck and cordwinder. Anyone else would send it to the dump.


Post# 177601 , Reply# 5   4/19/2012 at 13:34 (4,360 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
1205 problem

The terminal block you are seeing that the cordwinder slides against was one of the new ideas on the all new 1205(and later Golden J)that later proved troublesome to the point of a terminal block bypass kit being available to change connection to more of a Super J style wiring.Agree with above to contact Nathan as he may have kit or instruction sheet.Used 1205s for parts will sometimes have the kit installed to move to better 1205.

Post# 177602 , Reply# 6   4/19/2012 at 13:36 (4,360 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
1205 problem

The terminal block you are seeing that the cordwinder slides against was one of the new ideas on the all new 1205(and later Golden J)that later proved troublesome to the point of a terminal block bypass kit being available to change connection to more of a Super J style wiring.Agree with above to contact Nathan as he may have kit or instruction sheet.Used 1205s for parts will sometimes have the kit installed to move to better 1205.

Post# 177627 , Reply# 7   4/19/2012 at 18:52 (4,360 days old) by powermate1970 ()        
ok....so.....

what is the best way to take this tank apart? also, can somebody explain to me what the purpose of the "cleaning selector" (1-6 settings) is for? I'm sure it controls suction in some way similar to a "bleeder valve". I haven't quite figured out the vacuum hoses attached to the selector either. This is nothing like a G or L to take apart. If I can get it apart. I'm sure I can figure a way to wire the cordwinder direct.

Post# 177635 , Reply# 8   4/19/2012 at 19:28 (4,360 days old) by frank1002us ()        

one screw around switch two screw inside the blower.
remove these and gently remove the top cover.
disconnect the switch from the top cover gently.
remove the screws for the cord winder[one is under the vacuum and two under the top cover] and you can pull it out from the back.
if the contact block is fixed you will see the wires connecting the cord winder to the motor
there is a plastic cover that can be pulled out.there might be four knots holding this plastic in. open them. this separates the motor from the cord winder.
the motor should also pull out at this point.
this is as far as i remember.
post if you come across something different.

the dial is to tell the vacuum how much you want the bag to fill before stopping



Post# 177636 , Reply# 9   4/19/2012 at 19:30 (4,360 days old) by frank1002us ()        

i will try to remember what the kit was. i think it connected the two terminals in the cord winder to the motor and the switch.

Post# 177714 , Reply# 10   4/20/2012 at 09:08 (4,360 days old) by Real1 ()        
I'd...

be interested to hear more about the 'kit'....at least maybe a photo? I had probelms with the terminal block on one of my 1205's.....I think I have one broken lug soldered in there as we speak. One 1205 wouldn't run after I reassembled it; copied the wiring on the other (which was slightly differnt) and it worked. Never did figure that one out.

Kevin


Post# 177741 , Reply# 11   4/20/2012 at 15:19 (4,359 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
terminal block bypass kit

I have done many but not recently.Will try to find instruction sheet.The kit was-2 male terminals with 2 screws and 2 nuts to convert cordwinder cover to style of Super J/Olympia after snipping off strips that wrap around edge of cover to mate with block==and also 2 wires(1 with 2 regular female terminals,1 with 1 regular female terminal & 1 female with piggyback connection)the can reach from terminal block to removed cordwinder.After removing motor cover the regular & piggyback ends go on block and then motor terminals go on 1 original terminal & 1 new piggyback terminal.There was also a service dept tool to hold wires aside when reinstallig motor cover(just a flat aluminum rectangle of proper size).Hope this helps.Could explain better with instructions or in front of a 1205.

Post# 177907 , Reply# 12   4/21/2012 at 22:54 (4,358 days old) by powermate1970 ()        
Jimmy...

can I bypass the block all together? One of the slots in the block looks like its been hot at one time, and it's really "deformed". I can "make" the terminals on the cordwinder into male spade ends, and run my power wires off of it, so thats not a problem. I don't have the motor out yet to see what wires connect to the other side of the block, and where they go from there.

Post# 178095 , Reply# 13   4/23/2012 at 06:36 (4,357 days old) by frank1002us ()        

that is the idea. the plastic part used to melt and would not make the connection. it has ti be bypassed

Post# 178127 , Reply# 14   4/23/2012 at 11:32 (4,357 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
terminial block bypass,cont.

Only in very rare cases would the plastic block be so damaged or burnt to not use the terminals at the bottom edge.Changing the CW cover terminals by snipping off to approx.3/8 in above cover and trimming if needed to make more narrow for female terminal to slide on will work.CAUTION-If removing CW cover be aware the spring can be the most dangerous part of a Lux.Hold plug,remove cover,unwind reel 3 turns.Read previous post and with socket on extention remove 4 nuts at corners of motor cover.Remove cover.(If 'stuck'turn vac with door up and gently bump up & down and let gravity help with 1 hand to catch cover as it loosens.)With cover removed you will clearly see complete terninal block,how it worked & how to bypass.Gently remove motor terminals with tools such as flat screwdriver and needlenose pliars.Still working from memory,I believe bottom terminal(closest to whheels)gets new wire simply going from block to bottom CW terminal.Center block terminal gets 1 motor lead as originaly done.Upper block terminal gets piggyback terminal of new wire with motor lead 'piggybacked' and other end to upper CW terminal.Remember the word 'gently'from above and this should be a simple fix.Still looking for instruction sheet but think above is correct.I assume no nearby old Elux office with an old "friendly Electrolux man" to explain in person.

Post# 178185 , Reply# 15   4/23/2012 at 16:33 (4,356 days old) by beerad (Beautiful Vancouver BC)        
I need help..with my super J motor....

I have the motor to my super J disassembled..(and had the local vac shop put a new bearing in it)..... and it has been a few months since.
I am totally rebuilding the entire vacuum.
This is the first Lux that I have done this to.
I want to finish this project, so I can post my pics and share with fellow Vacuumlanders.

I repainted the metal body of the vac black.

I need some guidance reassembling the motor.

If anyone can help me with this process, including re-attatching the wires correctly. I would appreciate it.

thanks

Brad.




Post# 178186 , Reply# 16   4/23/2012 at 16:34 (4,356 days old) by beerad (Beautiful Vancouver BC)        
I need help..with my super J motor....

I have the motor to my super J disassembled..(and had the local vac shop put a new bearing in it)..... and it has been a few months since.
I am totally rebuilding the entire vacuum.
This is the first Lux that I have done this to.
I want to finish this project, so I can post my pics and share with fellow Vacuumlanders.

I repainted the metal body of the vac black.

I need some guidance reassembling the motor.

If anyone can help me with this process, including re-attatching the wires correctly. I would appreciate it.

thanks

Brad.




Post# 178197 , Reply# 17   4/23/2012 at 17:25 (4,356 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
1205 Terminal Block Repair Kit Service No.42110

I found the right drawer in the right file cabinet with instruction sheet.Can now add a bit more with wire colors.If you reread above with vac close by and now this you should have complete picture.Electrolux used 'exercise care'to prevent breaking terminals where I said 'gently'with tools.--pull off motor lead from the white wire terminal of the terminal block.In its place,push on the piggy-back terminal of the white wire from the repair kit,and push the motor lead onto the piggy-back tab.--push one terminal of the blue wire from the kit onto the tab of the terminal block with the blue wire.--replace the motor cover,directing the blue and white wires out of the rear of the cleaner body.--connect blue and white leads to the cordwinder tabs,with white lead on upper tab.(female terminals,with & without piggyback,should be available at any electronic/electric store to add to proper legth wire)

Post# 178261 , Reply# 18   4/24/2012 at 03:55 (4,356 days old) by beerad (Beautiful Vancouver BC)        
help anyone?

?

Post# 178417 , Reply# 19   4/24/2012 at 17:24 (4,355 days old) by beerad (Beautiful Vancouver BC)        
gee thanks

for the help.hmmmm.I will rewrite and then repost in off-topic, where there may be less "FINIKY" fellow Vacuumlanders.



Post# 178647 , Reply# 20   4/26/2012 at 11:18 (4,354 days old) by rugsucker (Elizabethton TN)        
Super J help

Beerad,Not being finicky.Last 2 days have demanded workbench time,not computer.The Super J was similar to the Golden J that folowed the 1205 with larger,more powerful motor and without the above terminal kit.General hints--The bearing replacement was a common and helpful repair.--CAUTION-Anytime you turn nut on front fan, cover fan with rag to prevent cuts to hand!--wires to cordwinder,I still remember my first instructions of"black & white wire together(like b&w TV)&blue on the bottom(CW terminal)--It is possible to turn rear fan upside down and still have everything fit.Remember how & where air moves and point opening of upper & lower fan toward bag.--remove rear bearing cap,by tapping with flat screwdriver & add 10-20 drops oil until wet,not DRY.--Carbon brushes should be marked with scratches on brush & holder or motor(east-west on one and north-south scrath on other)so they are not turned upside down when reinstalling.A carbon brush will have 1 'clean' side & 1 side with normal slightly buned edge where spark comes off armature.When reinstalling 1 side is up & 1 down in direction of rotation.--Can add more later.Any specific questions?--The 'custom' paint should look good.Have often thought this should be an option when repainting scratched machines.(Just look at colors used by Sears & Hoover!)


Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

Woops, Time to Check the Bag!!!
Either you need to change your vacuum bag or you forgot to LOG-IN?

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy