Thread Number: 13030
Help! My Kirby 1-CR fan removal.....
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Post# 138930   6/7/2011 at 21:08 (2,264 days old) by terrye ()        

Hi Guys,
Working on my Kirby 1 CR.
Polishing, have new parts in the mail.

The fan is broken and the front bearing has play in it.

Cannot get the impeller off. Put a tool in it and tried to get it broke loose, reverse threaded right? I have sprayed PB blaster on it.

Any tips?


Post# 138937 , Reply# 1   6/7/2011 at 22:35 (2,264 days old) by animebsd ()        

just remember that all fans on any vacuum loosen the same way the fan spins. ive had a few stuck kirby fans. and still cant break em loose to this day. it would be a good idea to let that pb blaster sit in there for a bit. then id take it out side and heat up the shaft of the motor where the threads are located. this should expand all the metal and then make it retract just to get it moving. make sure you let it cool before you try and loosen it. also make double sure your out side when you do it! because burning pb blaster that is in the threads it toxic. best luck! -Brandon

Post# 138944 , Reply# 2   6/7/2011 at 23:29 (2,264 days old) by twocvbloke ()        

I've found that little tools inserted in the hole in the pulley don't work, they either bend (too soft) or snap (too hard), and heat can cause problems of it's own, so what I found that can release the pulley is vice grips, as tight as you can get them and lock them over the hole in the pulley, and make sure you hold the back end of the armature tight and you should get it released, though you might want to get a new pulley afterwards... :)

The bearing's easy once you get that off, just knock the armature out (don't hit it with a hammer, you'll ruin the end of the shaft!!), then remove the circlip holding the bearing in place, pop out the bearing, pop in a new one and then reassemble in the reverse order... :)

Post# 138975 , Reply# 3   6/8/2011 at 09:43 (2,264 days old) by terrye ()        
Thanks guys

I think I will try the PB blaster for a few more days.
I was thinking heat...that is what I would do with my truck.
And the vice-grip idea did cross my mind....however I figured it would ruin it.

Will keep working on it!

Post# 139284 , Reply# 4   6/10/2011 at 10:32 (2,262 days old) by terrye ()        
still having trouble....

So I have been PB blasting it for a few days. and still couldn't break it free.

Last nite broke out the torch and heated it luck.

Gonna try to think of something to hold the fan better to keep it from turning. No place to put a wrench like on newer models.

May also break out the vice grips this weekend.

Any other tips?


Post# 139291 , Reply# 5   6/10/2011 at 11:55 (2,262 days old) by a007kirbyman (--->> Originally My Mom <<--- (now Wisconsin))        
Terry & Kirby 1CR assistance...

a007kirbyman's profile picture
Hello & good morning Terry,

I had sent you an email with my contact info. Feel free to give me a call if you like.

Cheers & hagd all,


Post# 139593 , Reply# 6   6/12/2011 at 21:50 (2,259 days old) by terrye ()        
Got It!

So I am guessing the 3 days of PB Blaster finally got it!

The bearings are kind of open not completely sealed.

I put a general purpose lithium based grease in them and put it back together.

I ran it without installing the whole vac together...runs fine, but it seems like it could be smoother and quieter?

The bad vibration and looseness I had was that the front bearing was loose in bearing holding plate. I shimmed it in there by cutting a coke can and feeding that in there. Works good.

It seems like it should run quieter. It is actually not that loud on low, it is louder on high, but is seems like the motor should run smoother

The front bearing gets pretty hot- is that normal?

I am thinking I am going to order new bearings...even thought the current ones seem OK and get some new electic contrats or whatever they are called...unless you guys tell me that the front bearing should get hot and maybe I did some thing wrong ie use oil instead of grease or something....

I am starting to get excited! Once my parts get here i can start putting this bad boy together!


Post# 139610 , Reply# 7   6/13/2011 at 06:50 (2,259 days old) by twocvbloke ()        

Hot bearings to me would say they have a bit too much friction going on, so, best replace them, they should warm up not not get very hot (though the scale of heat you don't mention, too hot to touch? Burns your skin? feels like hot water from a tap?)... :)

Grease is fine, infact it's what you're meant to use in ball bearings, but you should clean out the bearing before repacking really, but since you're replacing anyway I don't really need to describe the process in detail (involves soaking the bearing in a solvent, rotating it so it clears out the old grease and metal fragments, then drying it off and repacking), though repacking an old worn bearing is pointless, the easiest way to tell how good a bearing is by moving the armature up & down, if you have movement, you have a bad bearing which will howl and grind no matter what you do... :S

The rear bearing is a bit tricky to remove, you need a bearing puller tool to remove it, but putting it back on is easy enough (just tap it on, don't hit the outer ring though cos you'll destroy it before you even get to use it!!)... :)

And the electric contacts, assuming you're talking about the motor brushes, are known as Carbon brushes, being made of carbon of course, if the ones you have are really short (quarter of an inch or so), then yeah they need replacing, but if they're longer (Half an inch or more) then you don't need to replace them yet... :)

Post# 139614 , Reply# 8   6/13/2011 at 10:11 (2,259 days old) by terrye ()        
Thanks TwoCVBloke

The carbon brushes are down to about 1/4 inch so I should replace.

The bearings are the kind with the band on them. The front bearing area gets two hot to touch. There is no play in the bearings, but they don't turn as smooth as I would expect. I did clean them out with solvent before repacking.


Post# 139616 , Reply# 9   6/13/2011 at 11:35 (2,259 days old) by twocvbloke ()        

If the bearing still feels "rough" when rolling it with your fingers then it's beyond saving, it's easier just to replace it rather than trying to resurrect... :)

When properly packed and in good order, a ball bearing should not spin freely, it should feel stiff, but should turn smoothly without any rough spots, anything other than smooth is a bad bearing in my opinion... :)

And if it gets too hot to touch, I'd say it's shot... :)

Post# 139620 , Reply# 10   6/13/2011 at 12:25 (2,259 days old) by terrye ()        
Thanks for that

Makes sense on the bearing. Ordering two bearings and the electric contacts today. Looking forward to a little smoother motor and a nice quiet operating 1-CR!

Thanks for the feedback.


Post# 139621 , Reply# 11   6/13/2011 at 13:02 (2,259 days old) by twocvbloke ()        

Don't forget the bearing puller for the rear bearing... :)

Post# 139622 , Reply# 12   6/13/2011 at 13:03 (2,259 days old) by twocvbloke ()        

Of course, a link to one would have helped!!! :S

CLICK HERE TO GO TO twocvbloke's LINK on eBay

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